Compensator sprocket opinions needed

[Dr. Joe]

With over 50,000 miles on the trike it looks like I'm due for compensator sprocket #4. The "clunking" when shutting down is getting louder and now it is starting to clunk while just running. The last one installed was the "latest" SE version complete with the little oil tray that was glued to the inside of the primary. With my new TTS-100 cams I want to make sure the next comp can handle the job for a long time. Getting tired of continually replacing something so often that I never had problems with until I went to the twin cam. I had over 110,000 miles on my Evo and never changed the comp. Sheesh!

I see Baker introduced a new comp sprocket just last year that is supposed to address the problems with the "new" HD comp sprocket designs.

Any experiences in this area and recommendations would be helpful.

Thanks a bunch!

 

[trikermutha]

With over 50,000 miles on the trike it looks like I'm due for compensator sprocket #4. The "clunking" when shutting down is getting louder and now it is starting to clunk while just running. The last one installed was the "latest" SE version complete with the little oil tray that was glued to the inside of the primary. With my new TTS-100 cams I want to make sure the next comp can handle the job for a long time. Getting tired of continually replacing something so often that I never had problems with until I went to the twin cam. I had over 110,000 miles on my Evo and never changed the comp. Sheesh!

I see Baker introduced a new comp sprocket just last year that is supposed to address the problems with the "new" HD comp sprocket designs.

Any experiences in this area and recommendations would be helpful.

Thanks a bunch!

That new SE comp is junk..My was fretting from day one..Waste of money.. That was pretty much what the last thing that pissed me off to get rid of the TRIGLIDE.

Yes Baker has a new comp that I would try or Steve from GMR Perfromance in Texas has a oil pan with a magnet that keeps more oil on the comp and filters out the metal particles..Includes composite washer and gets rid of the bearing involved.
http://gmrperformance.com/products/compensaver/

 

[Dr. Joe]

That new SE comp is junk..My was fretting from day one..Waste of money.. That was pretty much what the last thing that pissed me off to get rid of the TRIGLIDE.

Yes Baker has a new comp that I would try or Steve from GMR Perfromance in Texas has a oil pan with a magnet that keeps more oil on the comp and filters out the metal particles..Includes composite washer and gets rid of the bearing involved.
http://gmrperformance.com/products/compensaver/

Thanks for the link on the compsaver. Looks like it should work just fine. But the $200 for it plus a new SE compensator would be more than the Baker. However, I did get about 25,000 miles from the last SE comp with the oil sling gizmo installed so maybe a new SE comp with the comsaver may be worth considering.

 

[FLTR2008TRIKE]

The Compusaver from GMR works and will extend the life of your next compensator. Besides the oil tray you also get a fiber washer to replace the bearing that will eventually fail due to the debris that is in the primary oil when it's dirty.

Also the Compusaver oil tray has a strong magnet glued in the tray to catch any ferrous metal.

I have one and I'm very happy with it.

 

[Dr. Joe]

Thanks for the info. I'll definitely look into the Compusaver a bit more. This is the first I've heard of it so I like to investigate some more. I'll first shop around and see if I can find a new SE comp at a fair price.

Question... do you leave the plastic HD tray that is glued to the inside of the primary intact or remove it?

 

[trikermutha]

Thanks for the info. I'll definitely look into the Compusaver a bit more. This is the first I've heard of it so I like to investigate some more. I'll first shop around and see if I can find a new SE comp at a fair price.

Question... do you leave the plastic HD tray that is glued to the inside of the primary intact or remove it?

I don't think it would hurt to leave it there but I would ask Steve at DMR he call tell you for sure.
How bad is your current comp now? I would look at it first then decide about a new one..It may only need to be cleaned up and lubricated properly..

 

[Sloufoot]

I don't understand why people try to run a bearing in the dirtiest area in the engine. In the best environments a bearing while it is running at speed doesn't lubricate with a liquid oil. It gets a vapor or a fog of oil to lubricate with.
This doesn't have much of a chance to wash any debris out of the bearing or any other wear surfaces. Especially if you are poring more dirty oil in it's place.
I think the GMR comp is a big step in the right direction ! But Baker comp will most likely outlast the SE unit 3 times over.

 

[Dr. Joe]

I don't think it would hurt to leave it there but I would ask Steve at DMR he call tell you for sure.
How bad is your current comp now? I would look at it first then decide about a new one..It may only need to be cleaned up and lubricated properly..

I haven't spent much time in a TC primary to know how to see if the comp needs cleaning. Is it just a visual check with the cover off or does the comp need to come off? ... and what am I looking for?

 

[trikermutha]

I haven't spent much time in a TC primary to know how to see if the comp needs cleaning. Is it just a visual check with the cover off or does the comp need to come off? ... and what am I looking for?

You would need to remove the left primary cover,chain,clutch and compensator.
Once the compensator is off you can check the lobes,bearing areas for wear and rust,fretting.. It most likely is lacking oil and causing the chattering in that area. But then again it could be to worn to reuse.

If I find my pictures of my comp I will post..

 

[Dr. Joe]

Makes sense. No problem getting the comp off. Done it before and have the tools, so now it's just a matter of when. Bike week starts in a few days so will probably wait till after. Just finished a bunch of upgrades, cams & lifters, fork rebuild, inner fairing paint, new gauge faces, new Chubby bars, fabricate an extension for my new custom dash plate, wheel spinners, and a few other do-dads. Just got it all buttoned up and looking forward to some riding and not wrenching.

Thanks for the replies.

 

[trikermutha]

Makes sense. No problem getting the comp off. Done it before and have the tools, so now it's just a matter of when. Bike week starts in a few days so will probably wait till after. Just finished a bunch of upgrades, cams & lifters, fork rebuild, inner fairing paint, new gauge faces, new Chubby bars, fabricate an extension for my new custom dash plate, wheel spinners, and a few other do-dads. Just got it all buttoned up and looking forward to some riding and not wrenching.

Thanks for the replies.

Have FunThumbUp

 

[MB1953]

Makes sense. No problem getting the comp off. Done it before and have the tools, so now it's just a matter of when. Bike week starts in a few days so will probably wait till after. Just finished a bunch of upgrades, cams & lifters, fork rebuild, inner fairing paint, new gauge faces, new Chubby bars, fabricate an extension for my new custom dash plate, wheel spinners, and a few other do-dads. Just got it all buttoned up and looking forward to some riding and not wrenching.

Thanks for the replies.

I have similar concerns, but as you say, Bike Week is upon us. I live close, so will be spending a good amount of time there during the day/ early evening. Maybe we will rub into each other. I will be easy to spot; I'll be the guy on the black Harley TriGlideThumbUp

 

[Sloride]

The Compusaver from GMR works and will extend the life of your next compensator. Besides the oil tray you also get a fiber washer to replace the bearing that will eventually fail due to the debris that is in the primary oil when it's dirty.

Also the Compusaver oil tray has a strong magnet glued in the tray to catch any ferrous metal.

I have one and I'm very happy with it.

X2 on the GMR Compusaver, Steve is great to deal with

 

[Dr. Joe]

I have similar concerns, but as you say, Bike Week is upon us. I live close, so will be spending a good amount of time there during the day/ early evening. Maybe we will rub into each other. I will be easy to spot; I'll be the guy on the black Harley TriGlideThumbUp

I'll be looking for a black TG with a "thumbs up" driver LOL!! (well one thumb anyways... gotta keep at least one hand on the bars). We'll start Bike Week at the Deland Rally then go from there. Lots to see this year so we'll be doing a LOT of "toolin" I'll be riding my SGTrike. Pretty easy to spot. Not many trikes around with a solo seat.



See ya on the road!

 

[Texan]

I'll be looking for a black TG with a "thumbs up" driver LOL!! (well one thumb anyways... gotta keep at least one hand on the bars). We'll start Bike Week at the Deland Rally then go from there. Lots to see this year so we'll be doing a LOT of "toolin" I'll be riding my SGTrike. Pretty easy to spot. Not many trikes around with a solo seat.

See ya on the road!

View attachment 33867

NOW, I like that. Have been toying with pulling my Tour-pak off but have been in a quandary about which seat to ride. Is that a police seat...?

Would love to see more pics especially the passenger area. I ride solo so not passenger provisions necessary.

Sorry, now back to your precious discussion on those sorry a$$ compensators.

8~\o

 

[Dr. Joe]

Be happy to oblige on getting you some pics and info on my solo seat. Pic #1 shows both seats. The solo seat is a Police seat swap meet find for $100. I did the rear seat as far as getting it ready for upholstery. Made the pan out of sheet metal and then started gluing on foam, then trim it to get it looking right (just use an angle grinder), then off to the local upholstery shop for the cover (they all know what to do) Money-wise I've probably only got less than $400 into everything.
Pic #2 shows the view from the back. I went with a low profile dash plate for cleaner lines.

And now for the time consuming stuff...

Pic#3 shows the fiberglass frame cover. I see J&P Cycles sells a few that could probably be modified but I like to make my own stuff, so out come the fiberglass & resin and a few weeks later... Ta-Da!

a frame cover with steel mounting pins where the springs go.
Pic #4 shows the details of the frame cover.
Pic #5 shows the dash extension that had to be made as well because a solo seat don't rise up to the stock dash and all you see is ugly wires and the dash bracket, so an extension is necessary to hide all that stuff.
I also took pics during this build if you're interested.

I never built a fiberglass frame cover or a seat pan before this but now days there is a YouTube on just about anything you want to do. And the nice thing about a project like this is there is no downtime for the trike! Take your old seat off.... tinker a bit... put the old seat back on till your ready to tinker again. Then just keep repeating the process till yer done!

 

[clint44]

View attachment 33867

Nice trike,Doc. Where did you get the wheels?

 

[Dr. Joe]

First I found a complete set of stock Tri-Glide wheels at a swap meet for $250, so I could work on them instead of mine so I didn't have any down time.
Then I found the right people to do what needed to be done to this set of stock Tri-Glide wheels. I found someone to grind all the little "accents" off each wheel ($600). Then had them polished locally (Daytona Beach) $200, Then a local powdercoater taped off the areas I wanted to remain polished and powdercoated them ($375), then I had the "hub caps" machined ($50) to hide the lug nuts, then I had the stock centers machined out to accept a skateboard bearing ($40), then I had small axles machined with a large flat area on one end so as to glue/screw any kind of do-dad onto it ($30), then I drilled very shallow holes on each spoke, deep enough for about 2 threads, and cut, screwed, and glued in polished stainless torx screws, then I drilled and tapped a number of holes in each "hubcap" and screwed and glued polished stainless torx screws in each hole, except one. Then I cut the tops off each lugnut so that the hubcap would lay flat, then drilled, and tapped one lugnut on each side so as to be able to use a torx screws on each hubcap to hold the hubcap onto the wheels. And what you wind up with is a unique set of "stock" wheels with REAL spinners that remain level to the ground even at 90mph! (sheesh! I'm all tuckered out!)
So to make this long story shorter.... they are reworked stock Tri-Glide wheels.

I originally removed the disc from the right side to see how it affected my stopping power and was pleased to find that the rear wheels do most of the stopping.

I have to exert a bit more force on the front lever to achieve the same amount of front stopping force but I mostly use my front brakes for around town cruising. I upgraded my rear pads ( I can't remember what brand) and they work awesome enough on their own, and now I can clean most of the front wheel from the one side... and it looks very cool (to me anyways). I didn't want to take the stock caliper mounts off so I made the piece of polished aluminum that bolts to the stock caliper mounts and they do a nice job of hiding the mounts. I do put the other disk on from time to time whenever I go on a long tour and am loaded up. Especially when pulling my trailer. The first picture shows a set of Harley wings with crossed wrenches. All items were found at the local Harley shop. The wings were easy to find and the crossed wrenches were part of a Harley key chain. The second pic shows some flying eyeball art from Ron Finch that I just mounted a few weeks ago.

The first set of spinners has over 10,000 miles on them and they still spin freely. Bottom line... the stock wheels offer great potential to be anything that you want. You can have them sandblasted and painted to match your bike or a combination of paint and polish. If I had to do it all over again I would just paint and polish because trying to get the powdercoating on without screwing up the polishing was expensive! So let your imagination roam, get some swap meet wheels, and have at 'er!

 

[MB1953]

Looking at all the little things you did to make this yours makes it a really awesome trike. Not just buying stuff off the rack... that is craftsmanship. +1 +1 +1!

 

[clint44]

So to make this long story shorter.... they are reworked stock Tri-Glide wheels.
View attachment 33900View attachment 33901View attachment 33902

Very nice work,sir! I thought they looked familiar.

 

[3rdwheel]

Really nice work! I like how that turned out, you have a real talent.

 

[Dr. Joe]

Thanks for all the great comments! They are really appreciated!

 

[trikermutha]

Now that is cool..Great job! ThumbUp I really like the way you did the solo seat Mod.wheels came out really nice too..

 

[GARYD]

Dr.Joe, I have an extra set of brand new OEM wheels I bought a while back to have chromed, but never did (still trying to sell them). How about I send them to you and you can work your magic on them but paint red instead????? epper:

Gorgeous looking wheels. ThumbUp

 

[HDB0B]

FWIW I attended a class at my local H-D dealer called "More than an oil change" where the master tech explained what all was done at a service. YES they use a printed checklist so they don't miss anything.

What surprised me the most (service on a 2014 TG) is they use 40 ounces (not 38) in the primary and to change the primary oil every time you do engine oil. Having done my own service 1 time, now out of the free services, I agree as the primary oil really takes a beating.

 

[Gorilla]

VERY NICE WHEELS. That's doing the extra effort to have those one of a kind wheel.

 

[Dr. Joe]

Dr.Joe, I have an extra set of brand new OEM wheels I bought a while back to have chromed, but never did (still trying to sell them). How about I send them to you and you can work your magic on them but paint red instead????? epper:

Gorgeous looking wheels. ThumbUp

Hmmm...Well now.... That's a possibility. I guess it depends on how much of a hurry you're in and how much $ you want to spend and what you want them to look like. The possibilities are really endless. I did a quick calculation on what I would have to charge to duplicate my wheels, which requires having the accents/nubs ground off (there are total of 46 of them little darlings on the three wheels). The accents I'm talking about are those little "nubs" by the red arrows. You can go back up a few posts to where my wheels pics are to refresh what the wheels look like without the "nubs."

I think it really cleans the wheels up and then they no longer look like stock wheels.


Once the "nubs are off then they are polished & painted and then the torx accents added. It would cost around $1,600 plus shipping both ways (A LOT of labor!). I'm assuming they would be painted to match your bike? The price I quoted does not including the "hub plates" or spinners. The hub plates with the new trimmed down lug nuts with 2 of them drilled and tapped so as to hold the plates onto the wheel would be another $375, but the spinners are not something I'd want to duplicate right now.

Just to give you another idea, the next pic is of the set I ran for a few years. They are just polished with the "nubs" intact but drilled and painted black for a little accent. And the spinners are old mustang spinners that just happen to fit into the stock wheel opening. Pretty simple but a little different and the cost for doing something like, without the hub plates and spinners this is about $550, plus shipping both ways. With hub plates add $375 and the spinners?

Well, I have one other set I could sell for $100 but then I'd have to start scrounging the swap meets again for others.

Polished wheels would look great with the "nubs" ground off and with the torx screws added to each spoke, etc, etc, etc. So you can see... the possibilities are really endless with a little imagination. I think the wheel "hubs" that hide the lug nuts are one of the things that really set the stock wheels apart from stock - IMO.

I'm not trying to sell anything here, and I'm certainly not looking for extra work to do, but I'm always open to helping someone out when it comes to customizing. As a matter of fact, I did do another set of wheels for a buddy of mine who has a black Street Glide Trike like mine and he went with the above wheels keeping the nubs intact, with no wheel hubs and stock wheel centers, and he really likes them! It's all about how custom you want to be, what you want your trike to look like, and how much $ you're willing to spend. Now that I think about it, I don't think I've ever seen a Tri-Glide with paint matching wheels so that might start something as well!

Keep in touch if you want to pursue this idea. Until then.... KEEP ON KEEPIN' ON!!!!