Compensator adhesive

I'll bet MoCo is afraid of liability using a glue in part there might be a chance if done wrong the parts will come off & cause catastrophic failure of the whole primary ! It would take one hell of an adhesive to stand up under the heat & also an oil environment. Not to mention the heating & cooling of that aluminum housing.
It's called CYA.....
 
I'll bet MoCo is afraid of liability using a glue in part there might be a chance if done wrong the parts will come off & cause catastrophic failure of the whole primary ! It would take one hell of an adhesive to stand up under the heat & also an oil environment. Not to mention the heating & cooling of that aluminum housing.
It's called CYA.....


I think its more greed than CYA, that little plastic part shouldn't do much damage if it was to come loose. The adhesive they chose shouldn't have any problems with the heat and oil environment in the primary. These modern adhesives can do some amazing things, I was sold years ago when I replaced some panels on my truck. I had never dreamed I would glue replacement panels on when doing rust repair, for years I had welded or brazed them on.
 
I'll bet MoCo is afraid of liability using a glue in part there might be a chance if done wrong the parts will come off & cause catastrophic failure of the whole primary ! It would take one hell of an adhesive to stand up under the heat & also an oil environment. Not to mention the heating & cooling of that aluminum housing.
It's called CYA.....

FWIW,
I agree with Slou on this one. HD just replaced my entire primary drive including the IPB and race except for the chain under my ESP. Cause of the failure was blamed on the tensioner, but we believe it was the 2011 compensator. The ESP would have covered the plastic conversion kit, but I felt it better to stay on the safe side. Because the bike needed ordered parts, they gave me a deal on the new 2014 outer primary with the cast in oil dripper and that was what was installed along with the new 2014 compensator, entire clutch basket with new clutch, new tensioner and the above listed parts . With the money I saved due to ESP covering the repair I felt this was the proper approach. No one knows how long the sealant will last with repeated heat cycles and there is also a metal clip that comes with this kit. I did not want to take the chance that the glued in plastic parts and metal clip could ever come loose and jam up the primary.
 
Those of you that had the new and improved compensator installed did you have to purchase a new rotor too? not sure what the difference would be?

Why sell the compensator kit and not sell the adhesive is beyond me??

I have a new rotor that I did not need. Send me a pm if interested. If you had already installed the older SE compensator kit called 09A I think, you do not need a new rotor. If your bike has stock comp, you will need a new rotor.
 
I have a new rotor that I did not need. Send me a pm if interested. If you had already installed the older SE compensator kit called 09A I think, you do not need a new rotor. If your bike has stock comp, you will need a new rotor.

I bought the new and improved version of the compensator..Not sure still why they say I need that newer rotor for the trike??

Plus I opted to go with the new version HO charging system that has a new rotor/regulator etc..

Its amazing how adhesives have improved over super glue these days..:p
 
well this adhesive story is really crazy..

I ended buying the adhesive from the dealer above mentioned but didnt have all the items they said the kit should have so I emailed them and then they tell me they shouldnt have sold me the kit..And I could not get the caulk gun adapter that should have come with the kit per there web site..

Need less you can buy the adhesive and caulk gun adapter from a Non Harley dealer..

Why do they sell the new compensator if they wont sell you the adhesive to do the job..
 
For those of you going to install the SE compensator do not buy the rotor as the instructions state..Part #30041-08A this is already on the Trikes now..The rotor is for the other models listed on the instructions it is a bit confusing.

I can see why now the stocks Compensators are failing.. no lubrication..Mine was rusting in places causing that knocking noise in the primary..
 
For those of you going to install the SE compensator do not buy the rotor as the instructions state..Part #30041-08A this is already on the Trikes now..The rotor is for the other models listed on the instructions it is a bit confusing.

I can see why now the stocks Compensators are failing.. no lubrication..Mine was rusting in places causing that knocking noise in the primary..

Yep the fretting and galling of the older one was a big problem, I've heard a few rumors that they have already made some changes to the 2014 design also. I'll bet yours was clanking pretty good when you shut the engine off, my dads started to clunk pretty hard when his went bad.
 
Yep the fretting and galling of the older one was a big problem, I've heard a few rumors that they have already made some changes to the 2014 design also. I'll bet yours was clanking pretty good when you shut the engine off, my dads started to clunk pretty hard when his went bad.

My was making noise under load..a bit different than what I been reading.. The rust I seen was inbetween the compensator plates..
 
My was making noise under load..a bit different than what I been reading.. The rust I seen was inbetween the compensator plates..

Normally something like this picture is what folks have been seeing.

Frettingsprocket2_zps5279f041.jpg
 
Mine was starting to look like that.. along with the plates.. Hope the new redesign SE version works..
 

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