brakes

Mar 31, 2010
1
0
green valley ,az
I have a 2010 factory HD tri glide,limited braking in rear wheels...right wheel brakes first,w/right pull,cannot slide wheels on gravel,no matter how hard you push brake...replaced fluid,pads,flushed system,new dot4,same problem...any one have any ideas???norm
 
I do not have a tri-glide, but a friend has a 2010 and he crashed because of the rear brake failure. I put a Performance Machine replacement system in when I rebuilt the trike and the problem is solved.
 
My 09 doesnt have super stopping power with the rears..Not sure if they would skid wheels or not...Most braking, as with any bike is on the front...I agree, HD coulda made a better rear system, but as of 2013, they havent done anything different..
If you have a pull to the right, id be checking caliper operation and fliud flow...Try disconnecting the right side, blocking the line, then apply brake and see what the left is doing , then you could do the same and try it with the left disconnected and see what the right side does...There is no proportioning valve, so fliud should flow equally to both sides..Thus, is your left caliper as operational and free flowing as the right?
Iv done alot of auto brakes in my life haviing owned and operated a Midas Muffler shop for 16 years, so Im just giving my 2 cents here...Hope ya figure it out...Hb
 
HD did update the rear TG brakes, I beleive it was the '11 model year, with a rotor revision and a little larger pads I had my rotors drilled and champhered by Lyndall Racing Brakes , they work fine now but still could be better.
broshous, you didnt say how many miles you have on your brakes, new rotors needed?
 
HD could have done a better job on the rear brakes, while running the stock rears on the 2010 I owned I never had an issues locking them up if I wanted to. I will say when I installed the PM Stage 1 kit on it I was shocked at how much better the brakes functioned, even while using the factory master cylinder to actuate the PM calipers.

I got another comparison when I removed the PM kit and put the factory system back on, big difference in required peddle pressure to get proper braking.
 
if yiu are thinking of the per. machine upgrade you might call them & ask when the modified version will be out. the master cylinder is about 1/4" from the ex. pipe.
& they were going to improve that. i have a '09 t/g with the stage 1 installed . & i use ATE super blue raceing brake fluid. & haven't had any problems with the brake line discoloring near the brake switch. ebay may be cheaper if you can't wait till p/m gets
the new version solved. just my thoughts.
in the mean time you have to keep checking your OEM pads semi-annually.
they wear out fast & the disc's are easily groved.
ebay has the kit for 1127.00. but you might loose the e-brake.on earlier models like mine we did.
 
I had my 09 updated to the new pads and rotors ...The squeal is gone and they do work abit better than previous...Im basically programed to the fact that the front provides good braking and after riding Buells for many years have learned to rely on the front brake mostly...Wonder if my TriG will do a stoppie!!!!..LOL..
 
if yiu are thinking of the per. machine upgrade you might call them & ask when the modified version will be out. the master cylinder is about 1/4" from the ex. pipe.
& they were going to improve that. i have a '09 t/g with the stage 1 installed . & i use ATE super blue raceing brake fluid. & haven't had any problems with the brake line discoloring near the brake switch. ebay may be cheaper if you can't wait till p/m gets
the new version solved. just my thoughts.
in the mean time you have to keep checking your OEM pads semi-annually.
they wear out fast & the disc's are easily groved.
ebay has the kit for 1127.00. but you might loose the e-brake.on earlier models like mine we did.


Latest from Performance Machine is the master cylinder will still be mounted as it was. I was told by the tech person I've been working with that Engineering found the piston wasn't long enough to provide the correct amount of fluid. He said all they did was install a longer piston. I'm working on exchanging my old style for the new style with the longer piston.

So they master cylinder will still be close to the head pipe. Me being the blunt person I am I told him to tell the lead Engineer he's a lazy a%% for not improving on the design.
 
How does the lenght of the piston affect fluid displacement. From my view, only stroke and diameter would affect that. Piston could be a flat disk and would not make a bit of difference. Confused.

Thanks
 
How does the lenght of the piston affect fluid displacement. From my view, only stroke and diameter would affect that. Piston could be a flat disk and would not make a bit of difference. Confused.

Thanks

He probably meant stroke since the piston would be mounted to the push rod.
 

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