Anyone else?

Yes that is a bought add on sump that bolts up to the bottom of the case.

I have been looking at cutting it down in size/depth.
I seem to remember somewhere in your build thread that you were addressing some undercarriage speed bump road rash due to low clearance. How are you going to address the additional thickness of an underslung deep sump?

That is the problem. No real place for it to be.

I do have it up a touch higher this time around and have not had any clearance problems at all this time.

This sump would have to be cut down a lot.....if it would even work at all.

This is just an idea out of my junk pile......thinking of something else in the wind cooling oil.

I am gonna hafta get back interested in working on the thing.

I had gotten serious about tuning and was doing some hard cranking on the throttle. I found a couple small problems and was making it somewhere. Then the first cooler started leaking. Once I got it back together from that.....I have done nothing but ride. It is reasonable close on basic tuning. I really need to do some colder weather tuning.

Just have not been interested in a while.
Still have not worked on it any. Well I think I finished making that oil cooler a while back, but still not on there.

Rode a little yesterday.

The weatherman said that winter is scheduled for a day this upcoming week.


Making a few small adjustments to the syncronization of the throats and the idle air valve.



Then next is to get the billet oil cooler on there and the oil changed.

Then more tuning......
On a side note.....maybe this should be added into the tech thread.....but anyway....

About the front end. By using the chopper builders handbook for a knowledge reference, plus some experience. This skinny tire works just fine. No head shake. Easy stearing, one hand driving. All this with less than an inch of trail. It even steered well in the rain. I have enough power I can push the front end around and the back end is crazy loose in the rain

So bottom can make it work....just takes some geometry and a bit of math.

Some pics I found on the internet......


Ok so...trying to get back into it.

Put the billet oil cooler on there.

Synced the throats vacuum.

Shimmed on the idle air valve to set idle.

Then started on the tuning again. Then I got mad about chasing the tune I erased the whole thing, reset the computer and started again from scratch on the tables.
so... how much time to get back to where you can idle/accelerate and cruise?

or is there some feedback type of program that will let you drive and it would self tune.......or is that wishfull thinking? I had several different things going on, but it all comes from me changing things.

I did start out on the right foot and had come a long way with it. But one day I decided to check my vacuum and change the whole base on which I was tuning on. I switched from alpha n to mass air pressure. I tryed to just convert the tables and settings did seem to work. But I came to find out that my warm up enrichment and other modifiers were effecting my base tables.

You have to start out with basic tuning and then add accel, warm up, cold start....ect.

So now I was just working on the idle air and the adjustments to that had a big effect to the running. So I turned off all the extras and find that the base stuff is not good.

It was time to start over using what I have learned that the engine wants.

It already cranks and runs again, that is not a problem. Now to do a lot of data logging and adjusting. Then add on the extras after.
So with what I have ..... I can record the reading from the sensors and adjust the tune accordingly.

There are systems that do auto tune. They are geared toward single carb on a plenum intake. They do not work well on an individual runner (non plenum) type intake/engine.

Historically the auto tune program was very basic. It did make the engine run but did not include all the other daynamic things going on. Such as rich to pull hard accelerating.....or lean out cruise......or warm up......ect.

Auto tune is growing all the time now.....adding more dynamics and getting better all the time.

If you wanted to try one on a vw engine you would have the find or build an intake much like the 2 barrel intake that is one big open hole under the carb. It would have to have enough volume to be a plenum the right size for your displacement and rpm. Some measuring and math to do there. But once there you could bolt on a fi tech, holley, ect auto tune fuel injection system and all the sensors. Then adapt some kind of head temp sensor into the water temp input and scale it so that it is in range...........It would work and auto tune.
so this new tune will be map based....yes I forgot about no temp inputs for engine on VW....monitoring oil temp with a gm water sensor? or a small water tube, with a gm sensor located where it would approximate temps like a water cooled engine? Definitely a problem, but an interesting one....

I have been on map for quite a while now.

It is nicer to drive, not necessarily better at making hp.

When I switched over I should have re-started from scratch.......again.

I have re-started several times now, mostly because I change things. Tweaking and modifying all these mix and match parts to do what I want them to...

So yes.....about a temperature input.

The megasquirt kit computer and its code is capable of a lot of adjustments, settings and scaling. So it is possible to use just about any thermistor on it.


Most any vw head temperature sensor, (such as the ring thing under the spark plug), is not a is a thermocouple (usually a k type).

Mario at the dub shop has a thermistor in a bolt down lug. If put in the right location it can be fairly accurate.

The thing about it dont have to be accurate, just has to see a rate of change.

Oil warms up quite would work, but you would have an incredibly long choke time.

So you need it on the head (which warms up quickly). But the head is going to be much hotter than the water in a v8. Megasquirt dont put whatever numbers you like in there for the enrichment. The bought auto tune system will not have this and will be made for a water cooled engine. When it reaches a critical temp....say will be in alarm/shut down.....but your vw engine will just be getting fully off choke and warmed up. So to use one of the fixed auto tunes systems you will have to externally trick the computer......resistors (inline or to ground) to make the signal from the sensor in scale to match the input capabilities of the tuner.
And here is mine.

A gm water temp sensor (thermistor).

Bolted to a fin over the exhaust port.

Works well....other than in the rain. The rain cooled it so much that I was stuck in enrichment mode (choke).


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