A question regarding front brake pads and mileage.

[JaysGone]

Let me start this out this way.
My trike is as most know a 2010 GoldWing with a Motor Trike kit.
The bike has 21K on it .
It had 10K when I bought it 2+ years ago.
Last week I started to hear some noises while braking.
As Im mostly a rear braker and use the fronts if I really need to stop in a hurry.
I use the rear pedal and then apply the front as I slow down to come to a complete stop.
I know most use fronts then add rear.
Anyway I pulled off the rear tires to check my pads and make sure every thing was tight.
It was. I have over 3/8ths of an inch of rear pad left. They still look newish.
I last looked at the front pads about 4 months ago and had what I considered plenty of pad.
Well it turns out my fronts on the left front are down to the rivets and have slightly scored about a quarter inch of the upper outer surface of the rotor. The right sides not far behind, also paper thin.

Off to Honda parts I go.
About $100+ for a set of front OEM pads. $60 for EBC HH pads are the only offerings they have.
I prefer given a choice FF. Seems they aren't even made for the Wing in FF. I like soft feeling brakes and have found on 2 wheels anyway HH too grabby for me.

I thought to myself that's a nutty price for pads regardless of whos.
So off to Ebay I go.
I have in the past bought no name pads for my other bikes including my Valkyrie off of Ebay and have had no issues with stopping nor longevity.
On Ebay the average asking price for Kevlar brakes is $12!!!!! Sintered pads about $30.

What would you all do in this case??
I know the standard your life is on the line etc etc response........

Never have I had a bikes fronts go in such a short time frame and mileage...............
As a commuter who doesn't do panic stops or hard braking on my daily ride.
Why in heck would the fronts be shot at 21K??????? When hardly used hard.
Honestly I expect 30-35K out of fronts the way I ride and yes I know this a trike and not 2 wheels but 21K is crap no matter what one rides.

I have grown to respect most of the readers here opinions and don't expect to be argumentative at all.
Just looking for other opinions as to why such crappy mileage and what brake pads to use. Or try.

Edit: did the search thing here after posting and seems 25K is OKish for fronts but still no answers on whos pads or anything.

 

[bikerbillone]

If you think the front brakes might be dragging a bit, feel the rotors after a ride for heat build up. Do it carefully, they could be hot and you not be aware. Pistons in the calipers have been known to get cruddy and hang in the closed position.

 

[Solidbob]

I have tried a number of different pads since 2004 and have settled on these for best performance, stopping ability, cooler running and life span. As I now have a triked bike stopping is of great importance to me & the spouse.

VESRAH JL Front Pads for your TRIKE / Rears are available for a bike...

I still run 41 Psi in the front MPA!!! Have averaged 24K or better on a pair of fronts and they do stop you even with a trailer ..... Loaded !!

GL1800 Brake Pads

These pads are derived from a high performance endurance racing pad compound. Outright stopping power is greatly improved, brake dust is greatly reduced, and these pads will not cause premature rotor wear. The stock brakes work very good to a point, but when you continue to pull harder on the brakes, they don't stop any harder. These pads are very linear and will continue to stop the bike harder (until your ABS comes on, if your bike is so equipped).
(Note: If you can already "skid" your front tire, and feel you don't need better brakes, it's because you have over inflated your front tire... most likely to 40 psi or more. Let the tire pressure down between 32 and 36 psi and your ride quality, safety, and grip will be dramatically increased! Penny-pinching Wingers will tell you to put this much air in your tire to stop cupping DO NOT compromise your safety to save a few bucks on tires!!!)
If you TOW A TRAILER or are OVERLOADED.... (WHO, ME?!?!?!?!?) You BADLY NEED THESE BRAKES!!!

They now only seem to be available thru Traxxion Dynamics :

http://www.traxxion.com/GL1800-Brake-Pads/

$49.95 / you need two pair.... Two Calipers........

And yes as mentioned above when you have the calipers off give them a good cleaning focusing on the pistons and free movement on the slider pins / use a dry teflon or silicone for lubricant and cleaners made for brake parts use. and protect painted surfaces from cleaners and brake fluid. And take your time.... it doesn't take long. If the pistons are stuck soak them with WD40 and you may need to use air to blow them out slowly / covering everything with a towel for protection. New caliper piston seal kits are available. Remember grease in the area collects dirt and road grip and your power car wash blows off the teflon or silicone you applied, now they'll stick again / this is a spring time checking item to make sure everything is free and loose and working correctly. Just some FYI

Almost forgot.... no pliers on pistons or they will be ruined, and no pointy objects on the seals.... they are seals, stop sealing with holes...

 

[bikerbillone]

Bob, good post. Have you tried running your front at 36 psi? I found that quite interesting.

 

[cavie]

EBC HH Sintered. Can't go wrong. Some say Yellow.

 

[Solidbob]

Bob, good post. Have you tried running your front at 36 psi? I found that quite interesting.

Never have Bill but I sometimes think about it when its pouring rain for maybe more traction, but I've never slid a tire with my brake or in a turn to fast...

- - - Updated - - -

EBC HH Sintered. Can't go wrong. Some say Yellow.

Use EBC Yellowstuff on my VW Calipers on my Roadsmith kit.... never tried them up front.

 

[bikerbillone]

I've never had a problem at 40 or 41, so I suppose no need to fix what ain't broken.

 

[JaysGone]

Ive done a ton of reading today on front brakes for the GL1800.
The wear pattern is not unusual that Im having.
Seems for a lot the outer left is the 1st to go. As mine have.
My mileage is a bit lower then the average. Not by enough to have me worry. It is a trike not a 2 wheeler and most information Ive read is about 2 wheelers.
But Im not the original owner so who knows what their riding style was.
Basically my choices are down to 2 types of brake pad.
EBC HHs or any ones Kevlar pads.
I think I will go with some ones off of Ebay.
I know I don't care for sintered, never have on my bikes.
So its Kevlar for me now as to whos??

So thanks for the info guys. I have to make up my mind and be trikeless for a week.

 

[rgw5944]

First thing I would do is rebuild the front calipers and change and bleed out the old brake fluid from the front master cylinder. Something in the system must be causing the front brakes to drag thus premature wear. Not a hard job to do and you will know that it's done correctly rather than just install new pads and get the same results.

 

[JaysGone]

First thing I would do is rebuild the front calipers and change and bleed out the old brake fluid from the front master cylinder. Something in the system must be causing the front brakes to drag thus premature wear. Not a hard job to do and you will know that it's done correctly rather than just install new pads and get the same results.

I fully intend to bleed and change all the fluid.
Air blast the caliper and hit the pistons with some brake cleaner. A lot of black dust in there.
As far as the left outer being the worse. from the reading I did yesterday.
With the brakes linked. Using the rear as I do the front left is also used even if you don't want it to be.
So that's where I believe the wear issue is coming from.
I ordered some Kevlar pads on Ebay.
If for whatever reason I don't like them.
Then my next choice is for some EBC HHs at $60 a set.
I think Honda is insane for what they want for OEMs. $100 plus they should be made of gold for the dealers asking price.
In any event just changing pads on a 1800 or even a 1500 for that matter are a 15 minute job per caliper.
Easiest brake job Ive ever done on a motorcycle. Not even a 1 beer job.