1987 Electra Glide Shade Tree Build

[dmillsr3]

After buying this '87 Electra Glide back in June this year, I have slowly accumulated a few parts. <br />
<br />
Cass County Choppers rear axle kit; MotorTrike rake kit - 6 degree; Champion reverse kit; wheels and tires; and a few miscellaneous parts.<br />
<br />
In true shade tree fashion, I built a Gantry Crane and bike stand. <br />
<br />
After a Colorado vacation, another right knee injury, and now cataract surgery, I finally put the bike up on the stand yesterday in balmy 96 degree September weather. <br />
<br />
I am not going to detail the tear-down -- all routine up to now. <br />
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By the week-end I should be ready to install the rear-end.

 

[alienwulf]

Love it another Electra Glide red too! Keep up the post love seeing old bike's get a second life as a trike. Not many of us left.

 

[Gorilla]

A true conversion build old school. Keep us posted

 

[dmillsr3]

Old School

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<img src="images/misc/quote_icon.png" alt="Quote" /> Originally Posted by <strong>Gorilla</strong>
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<div class="message">A true conversion build old school. Keep us posted</div>

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</div>Not much more old school than this one. <br />
<br />
But since I built my first custom bike in 1970, pre-internet, when I had to go, like, "in-person" to talk to welders and fabrication shops to even find a simple springer front end and to make my own 3 to 1 intake manifold for a BSA Rocket 3 in 1971, is this '87 conversion to a three-wheeler really old school? <br />
<br />
Depends on your point of view, I guess.

 

[peteg59]

Is the CCC rear independent?
Just curious, & too lazy to do a search.
Hard to find ind. rear kits for the earlier evo's...

 

[alienwulf]

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<img src="images/misc/quote_icon.png" alt="Quote" /> Originally Posted by <strong>dmillsr3</strong>
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<div class="message">Not much more old school than this one. <br />
<br />
But since I built my first custom bike in 1970, pre-internet, when I had to go, like, "in-person" to talk to welders and fabrication shops to even find a simple springer front end and to make my own 3 to 1 intake manifold for a BSA Rocket 3 in 1971, is this '87 conversion to a three-wheeler really old school? <br />
<br />
Depends on your point of view, I guess.</div>

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</div>If you didn't have the old school heart you would just buy one done already. I had a basket case British Arlie Square Four that I teethed on rode it up to Easy Rider rodeo in Costa Mesa Ca. what a blast riding that thing. Half didn't know what it was and the other half were thrilled to see one. Just saying you must love to tinker.<img src="images/smilies/wink.gif" border="0" alt="" title="Wink" class="inlineimg" />

 

[dmillsr3]

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<img src="images/misc/quote_icon.png" alt="Quote" /> Originally Posted by <strong>peteg59</strong><br />
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<div class="message">Is the CCC rear independent?<br /><br />
Just curious, & too lazy to do a search.<img src="images/smilies/wink.gif" border="0" alt="" title="Wink" class="inlineimg" /><br /><br />
Hard to find ind. rear kits for the earlier evo's...</div><br />
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</div><br />
</div><br />
</div>No, it is straight axle with Dana 30 base. <br /><br />
<br /><br />
Lots of debate on whether IRS or straight is best. There are other companies making IRS to fit this model. I needed one that was DIY installable. In hindsight, I might have preferred the Mystery Designs IRS kit, which I did not find until after I had committed to this one. Having said that, the CCC axle appears to be very well made and I think will be fine for me.<br /><br />
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<img src="images/misc/quote_icon.png" alt="Quote" /> Originally Posted by <strong>alienwulf</strong><br />
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<div class="message">If you didn't have the old school heart you would just buy one done already. I had a basket case British Arlie Square Four that I teethed on rode it up to Easy Rider rodeo in Costa Mesa Ca. what a blast riding that thing. Half didn't know what it was and the other half were thrilled to see one. Just saying you must love to tinker.<img src="images/smilies/wink.gif" border="0" alt="" title="Wink" class="inlineimg" /></div><br />
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</div>I can't even list all the vehicles I have tinkered with.<br />
<br />
My brother often notes that I have never had one that remained "stock."

Well, I must disagree. My first car was a 1960 Ford Galaxy that I never modified . . . that I recall.

 

[desertclassic]

Looking forward to the build. Keep posting. Jim

 

[alienwulf]

I think you will find the straight axle is just fine on the older bikes. less moving parts back there makes it bullet proof. I run 30lbs in the shocks and 21 in the rears wife says rides smooth. Seems better two up for some reason and she is only 112lbs wouldn't think would make much difference.

 

[trike lady]

Post pics of the build. We like pics.

 

[dmillsr3]

Update on Shade Tree Build

After planning a fast and simple shade tree trike build, I am here in December and still not on the road. <br /><br />
<br /><br />
My first major delay came when I was trying to remove the swing arm pivot shaft. Of course, the manual says to simply remove the nut and lightly tap the shaft our. Well, the 1987 Electra Glide has a two piece pivot shaft with one side screwing into the other side of the shaft about half-way through the mount on the back of the transmission. Those two pieces were rusted together and it took major force to break them apart. On each side of the shaft there was a rubber coated bushing. That bushing was rusted to the actual pivot shaft on each side. There was no way to get either penetrating fluid or heat to the area. <br /><br />
<br /><br />
It took brute force to get one side of the shaft to pull through the actual swing arm bushing. The other side would not budge even when struck with a heavy metal mallet.<br />
<br />
My concern was that I was going to gall and/or break the transmission mount.

Finally, I fabricated a press from an old bearing puller. I put the press between the frame and the swing arm and pushed the other side of the shaft out. No damage done to the transmission housing, thankfully. <br /><br />
<br /><br />
In replacing the pivot shaft I went to a one piece shaft. For reasons unknown to me, the shaft on the '87 model is 41/64". The bushings in the rear end kit are for a 3/4" shaft. Lost some time there while Cass County Choppers machined bushings to fit the '87. <br /><br />
<br /><br />
During all this build, my business has been very busy and I have had little free time to plan and wrench. Every time a I start to work, I have good intentions to take photos and update regularly.<br />
<br />
Then I find that I have completed a stage of the build and have no photos. <br /><br />
<br /><br />
Finally did get the rear end installed and am waiting for the body kit to ship.

I am in the process of installing the Champion reverse gear kit and have the Motor Trike rake kit left to go.<br /><br />
<br /><br />
This is as the project sits currently. <br /><br />
<br /><br />
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[Sidecarbill]

Just curious are those rear wheels as close together as they look.

 

[dmillsr3]

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<img src="images/misc/quote_icon.png" alt="Quote" /> Originally Posted by <strong>Sidecarbill</strong>
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<div class="message">Just curious are those rear wheels as close together as they look.</div>

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</div>Yes, but those are on negative offset wheels leftover from an old car project (circa 1996). Overall width now is 44". Once I get the body kit installed, I will replace with properly offset wheels. <br />
<br />
If I wanted to do a hot rod trike, though, that width could be fun!

 

[pcombe]

I'm interested in your shade tree build, I also built my own out of my 1989 tour glide ultra.<br />
I may be able to give you a few tips with the photos and explanations on the pictures of my build?<br />
<br />
When you get ready for that front end build you will find there is no edge on the neck bearing races which make removal a bugger and I have a solution to make that job easy.<br />
<br />
Make sure you get the kit to beef up your top motor mounts, the stock ones wont work with a trike, they will break as the engine twists in frame while taking off and soon you will have more nightmarish problems than you ever dreamed of.<br />
<br />
I got the 5 degree hog halter rake kit from Bazooka at about half the cost of others and its a real quality kit.<br />
<br />
My rear end is also a champion straight axle and I like hell out of it.<br />
<br />
for pics and explanations of my build google- pcombe photobucket/library

 

[pcombe]

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<img src="images/misc/quote_icon.png" alt="Quote" /> Originally Posted by <strong>dmillsr3</strong><br />
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<div class="message">After planning a fast and simple shade tree trike build, I am here in December and still not on the road. <br /><br />
<br /><br />
My first major delay came when I was trying to remove the swing arm pivot shaft. Of course, the manual says to simply remove the nut and lightly tap the shaft our. Well, the 1987 Electra Glide has a two piece pivot shaft with one side screwing into the other side of the shaft about half-way through the mount on the back of the transmission. Those two pieces were rusted together and it took major force to break them apart. On each side of the shaft there was a rubber coated bushing. That bushing was rusted to the actual pivot shaft on each side. There was no way to get either penetrating fluid or heat to the area. <br /><br />
<br /><br />
It took brute force to get one side of the shaft to pull through the actual swing arm bushing. The other side would not budge even when struck with a heavy metal mallet.<br />
<br />
My concern was that I was going to gall and/or break the transmission mount.

Finally, I fabricated a press from an old bearing puller. I put the press between the frame and the swing arm and pushed the other side of the shaft out. No damage done to the transmission housing, thankfully. <br /><br />
<br /><br />
In replacing the pivot shaft I went to a one piece shaft. For reasons unknown to me, the shaft on the '87 model is 41/64". The bushings in the rear end kit are for a 3/4" shaft. Lost some time there while Cass County Choppers machined bushings to fit the '87. <br /><br />
<br /><br />
During all this build, my business has been very busy and I have had little free time to plan and wrench. Every time a I start to work, I have good intentions to take photos and update regularly.<br />
<br />
Then I find that I have completed a stage of the build and have no photos. <br /><br />
<br /><br />
Finally did get the rear end installed and am waiting for the body kit to ship.

I am in the process of installing the Champion reverse gear kit and have the Motor Trike rake kit left to go.<br /><br />
<br /><br />
This is as the project sits currently. <br /><br />
<br /><br />
<a href="http://www.triketalk.com/forum/attachment.php?attachmentid=40942&d=1480618553" title="Name: seats.jpg<br />
Views: 154<br />
Size: 435.9 KB">seats.jpg</a></div><br />
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Champion makes neoprene pivot shaft bushings

 

[dmillsr3]

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<img src="images/misc/quote_icon.png" alt="Quote" /> Originally Posted by <strong>pcombe</strong><br />
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<div class="message">Champion makes neoprene pivot shaft bushings</div><br />
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</div>Pcombe, thanks for jumping in. I put off doing the triple tree until getting the rear end on, unlike you did. I did get pivot shaft delrin bushings with the kit. Once i got the swingarm off the install of the rear end went fine. Installing the reverse gear kit went fine as well. I replaced clutch plates at same time. I plan to get the new exhaust installed this coming weekend, except that I think I am coming down with a cold. <br /><br />
<br /><br />
I had heard from a couple of other sources that the top motor mounts needed to be beefed up. I haven't ordered them yet but will. <br /><br />
<br /><br />
Once I get to the rake kit, I will appreciate any tips you can share.<br />
<br />
<br /><br />
<br /><br />
I googled your photobucket page and saw your "story 121969" but the "wolf in sheeps clothing" album appears empty.

<br /><br />
<br /><br />
<br />

 

[pcombe]

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<img src="images/misc/quote_icon.png" alt="Quote" /> Originally Posted by <strong>dmillsr3</strong><br />
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<div class="message">Pcombe, thanks for jumping in. I put off doing the triple tree until getting the rear end on, unlike you did. I did get pivot shaft delrin bushings with the kit. Once i got the swingarm off the install of the rear end went fine. Installing the reverse gear kit went fine as well. I replaced clutch plates at same time. I plan to get the new exhaust installed this coming weekend, except that I think I am coming down with a cold. <br /><br />
<br /><br />
I had heard from a couple of other sources that the top motor mounts needed to be beefed up. I haven't ordered them yet but will. <br /><br />
<br /><br />
Once I get to the rake kit, I will appreciate any tips you can share.<br />
<br />
<br /><br />
<br /><br />
I googled your photobucket page and saw your "story 121969" but the "wolf in sheeps clothing" album appears empty.

<br /><br />
<br /></div><br />
<br />
</div><br />
</div><br />
</div><b><a href="http://s1273.photobucket.com/user/pcombe/library#!" target="_blank"><b><span style="font-family: Segoe UI Semibold"><font color="#001ba0">pcombe's Library</font></span></b><font color="#001ba0"> | </font><b><span style="font-family: Segoe UI Semibold"><font color="#001ba0">Photobucket</font></span></b></a></b><br /><br />
<br /><br />
<cite><font color="#006d21">s1273.</font><b><font color="#006d21">photobucket</font></b><font color="#006d21">.com/user/</font><b><font color="#006d21">pcombe</font></b><font color="#006d21">/</font><b><font color="#006d21">library</font></b><font color="#006d21">#!</font></cite><br /><br />
<b>pcombe's Library</b>. Bike to trike 1989 Harlet Davidson Tour Glide Ultra Classic. 134 photos.<br /><br />
<br /><br />
<br /><br />
<br /><br />
I googled it and it showed up ok. <br /><br />
I photo'd the whole conversion. Click on a picture and it will give an explanation of what I was doing.<br /><br />
<br /><br />
There are some good tips in there such as using a spot weld on the bottom neck bearing race to make it fall right out with a couple taps. It also gives you a spot to get a punch on. ( just a small spot, you don't need get carried away, the heat will warp the race as it cools and it may just fall out its self)<br /><br />
<br /><br />
I wrapped some electric tape on the neck bottom and over the top of the inner race to keep from striking a spark where I didn't want too.<br /><br />
<br /><br />
Harley makes a tool to remove the race but I didn't want to buy a tool I wont use but once in coons age.<br /><br />
There is no edge on the race to get a punch on and trying to grind and split it is an exercise in futility.<br /><br />
<br /><br />
( P.S. move your welding machine ground as close to where you are working as possible to avoid striking an arc through any other bearings on the bike ok?<br />
<br />
)<br /><br />
<br /><br />
<br /><br />
For some reason the tail light sending unit was not heavy enough to carry the load when the brakes were applied and I replaced it with one off a car, I also added an amp reducer to the wiring on the front brake for the same reason.<br /><br />
Of course I didn't have a problem with it until I put in a bigger stator to upgrade the electrical system.<br /><br />
<br /><br />
BE CAREFUL WITH YOUR IGNITION SWITCH! KID GLOVE HANDLING.<br /><br />
<br /><br />
If its like mine the switch is no longer made and the one outfit that was building a replacement went out of business.

Needless to say it's a bugger trying to get one even out of a bone yard.<br /><br />
<br /><br />
There may or may not be a hole in the triple tree for your front end lock pin, if not plan to drill one. It doesn't take much of a hole and shouldn't weaken your tree.<br /><br />
<br /><br />
If your system has an anti dive front end you will likely have to adapt it yourself or do away with it. I kept mine, Other wise Bazooka can get you the proper size hose fittings from Hog halter to keep air assist on the forks.<br /><br />
It pisses me off when people wont take the time to keep an air assist on a front end as most converters dont, It's just shoddy work if you ask me?<br /><br />
<br /><br />
As long as you have the front end down new (heavier) progressive springs aren't that expensive and go ahead and rebuild your lower sliders, you will be glad you did in the long run. A front end that age was suggested for rebuild every 50,000 miles, most don't do it, most are fools! I think Harley still recommends rebuild at that time but I could be wrong, I'm old school and much has changed with HD.<br /><br />
<br /><br />
I also put an E-27 cam in my 80" motor for a bit more uhmp on take off and it helps, Its no speed demon but will work up 95 mph and that's good enough for an old fart.<br /><br />
Just to give you a heads up? Don't lug it, keep it in gear where its always pulling, not only good for the engine but cuts down on any headshake you might get.<br /><br />
<br /><br />
My old glide had a natural 4 degree rake and I added a 5 degree rake kit for an overall 9 degree rake. It handles ( quick ), no sluggishness like the tri glide, Can run it one handed all day and I don't need a front end wiggle damper.<br /><br />
<br /><br />
My trike rolls easy unlike the tri glide I didn't put in a reverse gear and haven't needed one either.<br /><br />
<br /><br />
The difference between a good trike and a bad trike depends entirely on the integrity of its builder.<br /><br />
It seems you know what your doing.<br /><br />
<br /><br />
I have had some more of the same old heart/lung problems and am not on the site much but will try and check your progress.<img src="images/smilies/thumbup.gif" border="0" alt="" title="<img src="images/smilies/thumbup.gif" border="0" alt="" title="ThumbUp" class="inlineimg" />" class="inlineimg" />

 

[peteg59]

Thread Hi~Jack...

Paul,
Good to see you back & posting. Hope you're doing Ok health wise nowThumbUp
What did you end up doing to cure the oil burping issue you were having on your engine?

Return to normal thread...
Sounds like you're making progress dmillsr3ThumbUp
Paul's build is very similar to yours so hit him up, (not literally), if you get stumpedThumbUp

 

[pcombe]

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<div class="message">Paul,<br />
Good to see you back & posting. Hope you're doing Ok health wise now<img src="images/smilies/thumbup.gif" border="0" alt="" title="ThumbUp" class="inlineimg" /><br />
What did you end up doing to cure the oil burping issue you were having on your engine?<br />
<br />
Return to normal thread...<br />
Sounds like you're making progress dmillsr3<img src="images/smilies/thumbup.gif" border="0" alt="" title="ThumbUp" class="inlineimg" /><br />
Paul's build is very similar to yours so hit him up, (not literally), if you get stumped<img src="images/smilies/thumbup.gif" border="0" alt="" title="ThumbUp" class="inlineimg" /></div>

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</div>
</div> I'm still struggling, pretty tired yet.<br />
<br />
<br />
As far as the oil problem I had it was the main seal on the crankshaft.<br />
Instead of oil dumping from the engine into the primary cover as it was supposed to the oil was being sucked out of the primary and into the oil tank? Go figure? <br />
I had suspected the seal was wrong from the factory because the motor was bought by a dealer to build a chopper that was never built and if he were to run a dry clutch the seal would have been backwards from normal.( the seal was in there facing the proper direction) I wonder if it just sat dry to long as the engine was bought in 1994 and just sat in his shop.<br />
I had tested compression etc. before I ever bought and before installed the engine.<br />
<br />
I have 16,000 on the engine now.<br />
<br />
I tore it all down and replaced the crankshaft main seal and as long as I was in there replaced the transmission seals etc. I put on new compensator gears, secondary drive gears and a new chain also, I had replaced the clutch assembly last time I was in there putting in the new engine so everything there met calibration factors. I replaced the clutch basket to get better looking gears, some of it was replacement just for the hell of it to avoid future problems so I have an extra chain etc. It's a matter of knowing everything was new at the same time?<br />
<br />
The only thing original is the transmission and when I pulled the cover the gears looked amazingly great with over a 100,000 miles on them.

 

[pcombe]

dmillsr3, I didn't mean to hijack your thread, sorry

 

[dmillsr3]

dmillsr3, I didn't mean to hijack your thread, sorry

Pcompe: that's the first time it has happened to me.

 

[dmillsr3]

Quick update:<br />
I couldn't help myself. I bolted up exhaust, replaced transmission fluid, and replaced primary case fluid. Charged battery and cranked it up. Started with no problem at all after having been down since July. This build is far from finished, but I took it for a short run of about a mile. <br />
Rake kit is not installed yet, but there was no head wobble until about 20 mph and that was very very slight. If I had not been looking for or expecting some wobble, I might not have felt it. The wobble went away quickly as I accelerated.<br />
At this low speed (not more than 30 mph) the steering felt good.<br />
Also, the reverse gear was flawless.<img src="images/smilies/smileygarden_de_banana7.gif" border="0" alt="" title="pepper" class="inlineimg" /><br />
<br />
Now I just need to install the rake kit and install the body (when it finally gets here (promised to ship this week)).

 

[pcombe]

I spoke to you in a private message about the bolts backing out of the upper motor mounts where your stiffener bolts on and brace bolts to the heads after I triked my scooter. <br />
These are the bolts I was speaking of.<br />
<br />
I finally pulled these mounting bolts, drilled a hole through the heads and wire tied them with a twist pattern, bolt to bolt in an S pattern so if one were to loosen it pulls the other tighter and vise versa. That cured the problem where no amount of lock tight or lock washers would hold them.<br />
<br />
As old as your bike is I recommend replacing the lower front motor mount right off the bat because it damn sure will break with the extra twisting torque of a trike.<br />
<br />
A bike was never intended to be a trike so there will be a hell of a lot of side twist on your motor mounts on take off etc.<br />
Have you ever heard of some one saying their horn honks whenever they turn or take off?<br />
The motor mounts are the reason!<br />
<br />
Harleys have so much torque they can twist that motor right out of the frame busting everything in the process.<br />
At that point I recommend high explosives for the cure. <img src="images/smilies/grin.gif" border="0" alt="" title="big grin" class="inlineimg" /><br />
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The champion upper motor mount comes with metal stiffeners to go right into your current mounts and has a heavy duty stiffener. Newer bikes don't need one but yours will. <br />
The kit comes with an epoxy to attach the heavier plates to your frame, I welded mine to the frame. ( watch your heat, enough is enough and too much is to much)<br />
About a 100 amps on farmer rod, bout the same on wire feed? I don't remember for sure.<br />
( keep your ground wire as close to where you are working as possible making sure you wont strike an arc through any bearings.<br />
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You can see an unfinished weld on the mounting plates<br />
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You can see the end of my exhaust in the picture, I eventually cut off the flare, ( they are a pain in the butt compared to the newer style Harley pipes.) welded a joint and used regular car muffler clamps. I like it better than Harleys original flare/ clamp system.<br />
Champions Bassani Mufflers come with S pipes to clear the axle, I had to shorten the pipes a bit anyway.<br />
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Positioning and welding body mount for rear body framing after mock fit up.<br />
You can see the saddle bag mount on the lower right side of picture, I cut it off because it will make setting he body down a real pain and scratch hell out of the paint.