103 to 110

Oct 13, 2015
48
9
Milford Mi.
So I was at the dealer today. They where doing an engine upgrade. Harley has a new kit to take the 103cu to 110cu. It is all bolt on. No case machining. They where working on an air cooled engine but the tech said there is a kit for the twin cooled engine also. It would be warranty friendly. Anyone try it in there tri glide yet? What do you think?
 
So I was at the dealer today. They where doing an engine upgrade. Harley has a new kit to take the 103cu to 110cu. It is all bolt on. No case machining. They where working on an air cooled engine but the tech said there is a kit for the twin cooled engine also. It would be warranty friendly. Anyone try it in there tri glide yet? What do you think?

interesting. And if you throw a good set of torque cams in for a tri you would really be in business.
 
The big question is how will it hold up. They had to machine the spigots of the cylinders pretty thin to make it work without case boring.
 
The big question is how will it hold up. They had to machine the spigots of the cylinders pretty thin to make it work without case boring.

How do you feel about just the big bore kit (cyl & pistons) versus spending the money on some headwork? Cams being a non-factor as they would probably be done either way.
 
The big question is how will it hold up. They had to machine the spigots of the cylinders pretty thin to make it work without case boring.

Im with you on your concern Mike.

I for one will not sacrifice longevity for performance, It's like cutting off my nose to spite my face?

:Shrug: I want my bike to be around for as long as I choose to own it without a whole lot of maintenance issues.

The more I do to an engine the more I will have to do to an engine is usually my thinking.

Sometimes I wonder if the performance issues I read on the forum couldn't be solved by not lugging an engine?

If you build an engine strictly for performance you must be willing to spend the money on top grade components and oem parts should not be used in many cases, it's my experience that the OEM engine isn't designed to withstand the performance upgrades people try to force on it?

In other words, build from the cases up using only parts designed for ultra performance under extreme conditions? Then be ready to spend lots of time and money in tweaking it.

Hell I would do it just for the love of mechanical tinkering if I could afford it!:clapping:
 
How do you feel about just the big bore kit (cyl & pistons) versus spending the money on some headwork? Cams being a non-factor as they would probably be done either way.

This kit is so new, IMO I'd let some others be the guinea pig. The only way HD could get cylinders which used to require a case bore to fit without one, is to make the spigot thinner where it goes into the cases. The 110 can be quite the toaster oven in stock form, a decent set of cams, a good tune and it helps tame the heat beast some.

- - - Updated - - -

Im with you on your concern Mike.

I for one will not sacrifice longevity for performance, It's like cutting off my nose to spite my face?

:Shrug: I want my bike to be around for as long as I choose to own it without a whole lot of maintenance issues.

The more I do to an engine the more I will have to do to an engine is usually my thinking.

Sometimes I wonder if the performance issues I read on the forum couldn't be solved by not lugging an engine?

If you build an engine strictly for performance you must be willing to spend the money on top grade components and oem parts should not be used in many cases, it's my experience that the OEM engine isn't designed to withstand the performance upgrades people try to force on it?

In other words, build from the cases up using only parts designed for ultra performance under extreme conditions? Then be ready to spend lots of time and money in tweaking it.

Hell I would do it just for the love of mechanical tinkering if I could afford it!:clapping:

You have some good points, especially about lugging. I'm amazed at how many folks don't mind stooging around at 2,000 - 2,500 rpm and then chugging along up a hill. You're also right on the button about using the proper parts when building for more performance.
 
Good points concerning lugging. If you do high performance upgrades, be prepared to change your ways about RPM's. Mine has a sweet spot at 4,000 rpm and it still has good legs available at 5,000. Freaked me out for a while getting my walnut sized brain re-trained. I never ever run below 3,000.
 
Good points concerning lugging. If you do high performance upgrades, be prepared to change your ways about RPM's. Mine has a sweet spot at 4,000 rpm and it still has good legs available at 5,000. Freaked me out for a while getting my walnut sized brain re-trained. I never ever run below 3,000.

Looks like you are stage 4, what cams? With a low end tq cam you should be able to pull lower than that. I tend to run short duration to get that low end tq.
 
Just out of curiiosity, what would the cost difference be between the 110 build and just dropping in a 120ST? Would the reliability of the 120 over the 110 build be worth considering?
 
At the dealer they say,there is no case boring because the cylinder liners are stronger metal,so the spigots can be thin. Factory warranty when put on new bike(trike). They showed me a dyno sheet on a recent build. If I remember wright it was 110hp,120trq. After market exhaust & ac.
 
At the dealer they say,there is no case boring because the cylinder liners are stronger metal,so the spigots can be thin. Factory warranty when put on new bike(trike). They showed me a dyno sheet on a recent build. If I remember wright it was 110hp,120trq. After market exhaust & ac.

Sounds like your dealer has a happy dyno, or their playing dyno games. No way you're going to get 110/120 out of a bolt on 110 with stock heads as they come on a 103" engine, exhaust upgrade and ac. Just upping the CI by 7 is only going to worth maybe 5 hp and the most of 10ft/lb torque at best. To make a 110 with the head which come on the 103" go 110/120 it's going to take the right cam, exhaust and a whole lot of tuning.

The factory warranty is applicable when the items are installed within 60 days of delivery on a new bike/trike. After the 60 day period the warranty from HD is only 90 days vs the 2 years unlimited if installed within the grace period. The only time you may get away with a later install date and maintain warranty on it, is if the installing dealer is willing to pick up what Harley won't.

Given some of the practices HD has adopted of sourcing parts from the cheapest supplier, I'm a skeptic until others have put some miles on them and prove they do hold up.
 
I was at the dealer today. The 110 kit comes with screaming eagle heads. I looked at the dyno chart again it 100 hp, 120 trq.
 

Attachments

  • image.jpeg
    image.jpeg
    424 KB · Views: 139
water cool over not water cool

-Have any ideal what the HP is on a 2015 water cool is over the none water cool IO
here they up size the cams in the new bike just thinking lol
 
I was at the dealer today. The 110 kit comes with screaming eagle heads. I looked at the dyno chart again it 100 hp, 120 trq.

The stage 3 bolt on kit does not come with 110 heads, here is the link to the kit http://www.harley-davidson.com/stor...ii-street-performance-kit---black-highlighted. What is in the picture is what comes with this kit. If you want to see something even more interesting, read the Q&A section of that link. Someone ask why that kit isn't compatible with the 2015 Triglide, the response from HD was it isn't emissions compliant on a Triglide. Which is corporate speak for it means Harley Davidson will not warranty this kit if installed on a Triglide. The dealer may tell you different, I'd want it in writing because the dealer is the one who will have to cough up the money to repair it if it shifts the crank or eats a piston. The problem comes if you're 1,000 miles from home and hit dies and the servicing dealer refuses warranty due to the kit Harley Doesn't warranty for that application.

Navigating the warranty mine field is pretty tough, a good many dealers don't even know what is and what is not covered. All they care about is the bottom line, if the customer wants it then by all means sell it, not matter what.
 
Part number for kit with heads is 95200032. The dyno chart in the catalog is not what I seen at the dealer. The catalog also states it will not fit a tri glide. 😢
 
Part number for kit with heads is 95200032. The dyno chart in the catalog is not what I seen at the dealer. The catalog also states it will not fit a tri glide. ��

The kit PN you reference is the stock 110 kit, if you look at the little dyno chart for this kit vs the PN 92500035 Stage III kit, the Stage III kit makes more power and torque. The cams and higher compression of the Stage III kit helps make better numbers vs the lower compression and milder cam stock 110 kit, even though the stock 110 kit comes with heads. The heads of the stock 110 kit doesn't due much for it until the right cam is selected, or the heads have been ported by someone who knows how to make them shine.

On average the stock 110 will run around low to mid 90's on HP and 100 - 110ft/lbs torque. To get it into the 110 hp and 120 torque range, is going to require the right cam, exhaust, air filter, exhaust and a good tune. If someone is trying to tell you all they did was air filter, exhaust and tune to get 110/120 out of a stock 110, they're feeding you a line or they have a happy dyno.

It will fit the Triglide, it just won't be covered by HD under warranty due to emissions not being compliant.
 

Welcome to the Trike Talk Community

Join our vibrant online community dedicated to all things Trikes! Whether you're a seasoned rider or just starting out, this is the place to share experiences, tips, and stories about your three-wheeled adventures. Explore modifications, maintenance advice, and rides, all while connecting with fellow trike enthusiasts from around the globe

Forum statistics

Threads
55,201
Messages
801,645
Members
23,765
Latest member
Bobron
Back
Top Bottom