06 Twin Cam 120" Build (Lots of Pictures)

Sep 20, 2009
4,577
299
NE Ohio
Name
Mike
Thought I would share what had been occupying me this winter. I decided to build a 120" engine for my 2006 Ultra Classic. The majority of what I have done to this 2006 engine applies to the 2007 and up Twin cams, this engine would also make a dandy Trike engine.

The old engine just about ready to be pulled.

1201cq.jpg


Engine has been removed. Since the transmission is supported by both the engine and the swing arm it is necessary to support the front of the transmission with a ratchet strap.

1202u.jpg


The old 95" engine which made 104 hp and 100 ft/lb torque setting in the engine stand.

1203x.jpg


I opted to use the new Screamin Eagle cases that Harley started producing last July. They come with Timken inner cam bearings and SE lefty bearings on both sides. The cases have had the spigots bored for the bigger bore cylinders.

1204r.jpg


1205k.jpg


I sent the cases off to Dark Horse crank works to have them build me a 4 5/8 stroke crank plus do the timken conversion on the left side crank bearing. The crank is a work of art, it has been plugged and welded, balanced and equipped with their H beam connecting rods.

1206r.jpg


1207e.jpg


1208i.jpg


Just a handful of the parts for this build.

1209g.jpg


Installing the cylinder studs. You need a head bolt with a ball bearing dropped into it to install and torque the studs. These studs are the stock Harley studs, no need for Screamin Eagle studs. Figure on having a spare head bolt because you won't get the bearing out once finished.

12010r.jpg


Studs installed with tubing to protect the threads, the connecting rods have been cut loose and protected with some pipe insulation.

12011p.jpg


Continued next post.
 
A nice big bag to cover the work in progress and keep dirt out, clean is the name of the game.

12012g.jpg


The piston rings have to be filed to obtain the correct end gap. When gapped you have to keep the gapped ring set with the cylinder it was gapped for. I just write the number on the top of the cylinder and the ring bag.

12013b.jpg


I start the piston ring into the bore and then use the piston top to square it up and push it down the bore some so I can use the feeler gauge to measure the gap.

12014w.jpg


Cylinders installed with nice shinny new pistons. The pistons are CP made to Head Quarters specifications.

12015l.jpg


Before installing the head bolts they tell you to apply some light oil to the threads and to the head of the bolt where it contacts the head. I always add a small amount of oil and then after swirling it around in the threads I turn the bolts on end to drain the excess to keep from possibly fracturing the bolt head from hydraulicking it with the oil.

12016.jpg


I elected to install the oil pump Harley uses in the 07 and later twin cams along with a billet cam plate made for gear drive cams only. The cam plate is a nice piece from R&R cycle.

12017.jpg


Cam gears have been installed. I'm sticking with a package by using Head Quarters 0033g cams which will work nicely with heads I have ported by HQ.

12018p.jpg


With every build extra help is a great thing, my dad did a great job cleaning parts and pitching in where needed.

12019h.jpg


I'm not a fan of adjustable push rods so I mock up the valve train and order push rods to my length. Here I used a set of adjustable push rods to mock up.

12020.jpg


I then take the adjustable push rod and measure it against a stock push rod and then get the difference and add in how deep in the hold I want the lifter pushed. In this case I needed a Screamin Eagle + .030 push rod to make up for the difference in cam base circle and get me .122 in the hole.

12021s.jpg


Continued next post.
 
Here is the completed engine.

12022.jpg


The engine in its new home.

12023.jpg


I'm a big fan of the oetiker clamps Harley uses on the majority of their hoses. This is the oil to the engine and return line back to the oil tank. The Twin cam engine is a dry sump system with a 2 stage oil pump, the majority of the oil circulated through the engine is returned back to the oil tank.

12024gk.jpg


The nifty little oetiker pliers used to crimp the clamps.

12025s.jpg


I'm going to use a 10 row vertical Jagg oil cooler. I bolted it up to check for fit on the bike, I'm not sure if I'll be able to use my lowers with this cooler.

12026.jpg


I decided I wanted to use AN fittings and braided lines for the oil to and from the cooler. I had to cut the fittings off the cooler then drill and tap the cooler to accept the AN fittings.

12027.jpg


12028.jpg


With the vastly increased power and torque the stock clutch isn't going to handle it. I'm using an Energy one extra plate clutch with Aim billet pressure plate, 480 lb spring and VP92. The billet pressure plate to the right of the stock pressure plate is a nice piece.

12029p.jpg


The clutch plates have to be soaked in the type of oil being used in the primary, for me that is Harley Formula+.

12030j.jpg


The completed clutch.

12031zn.jpg


With increased engine displacement and power a larger throttle body and bigger injectors is needed. This is a Horse Power Inc 55mm equipped with their 5.3gps injectors.

12032.jpg


When installing the throttle body it has to be aligned, this is a tool HD markets for doing the job.

I've been running the Doherty power pacc air cleaner system for quite some time, its a nice piece.

When removing the engine and replacing it the bike and I'm sure Trike will have to be aligned. This is a shot of the bike being aligned, surprising it wasn't too far off.

12035e.jpg


Right now the bike is at the tuners ( JD's Cycle Works) being tuned. With any kind of luck the tune may be complete next week.

I'll post the dyno sheet once I get my hands on it, and post a ride report when I can get to Bethlahem Pa and pick the bike up.

While at JD's I'm having Dave wire the ECM and install O2 sensors so he can use the TTS to get a nice smooth running engine.
 
So how does the stump puller run?? :)

Won't know for awhile, it should be tuned this coming week and the next available free time I have to make a 900 mile round trip to pick it up will be the 1st weekend in April. I'm sure it will run pretty good, Dave at JD's is one heck of a tuner with the TTS.
 
I saw you posted your sticking with the stock HD 07 & up oil pump for this engine build. I went with the Dan Thayer 3 stage pump from TMan and SE cam plate when I assembled my 117". I also used the LMR #2 spring from Baisley's.

Your 120 will have you grinning from ear to ear, you got an awesome build
 
I saw you posted your sticking with the stock HD 07 & up oil pump for this engine build. I went with the Dan Thayer 3 stage pump from TMan and SE cam plate when I assembled my 117". I also used the LMR #2 spring from Baisley's.

Your 120 will have you grinning from ear to ear, you got an awesome build

I was also looking at the 3 stage pump real hard, its a sweet looking piece. I decided to stick with the stock pump and go with the newer style. I didn't pull the spring on the R&R plate to see what it looked like. The plate came with a card that showed the spring let off pressure and the initials of the person who tested it. From what I gathered R&R test each plate for the let off pressure. The neat thing with the R&R is no block off plates are needed for gear drive because this one is a gear drive only plate. I also looked real long and hard at the TR590 cam but opted to stick with an all Head Quarters build. Normally guys run the HQ575 cam with this build but I didn't care for the 205ccp with that cam so I went with the 0033 which has a 47 intake close.

I'm sure it will be a hoot to ride, it was fun to build.

If all goes well I'll know what kind of number it put up on the Dyno once Dave gets it tuned.
 
I was also looking at the 3 stage pump real hard, its a sweet looking piece. I decided to stick with the stock pump and go with the newer style. I didn't pull the spring on the R&R plate to see what it looked like. The plate came with a card that showed the spring let off pressure and the initials of the person who tested it. From what I gathered R&R test each plate for the let off pressure. The neat thing with the R&R is no block off plates are needed for gear drive because this one is a gear drive only plate. I also looked real long and hard at the TR590 cam but opted to stick with an all Head Quarters build. Normally guys run the HQ575 cam with this build but I didn't care for the 205ccp with that cam so I went with the 0033 which has a 47 intake close.

I'm sure it will be a hoot to ride, it was fun to build. If all goes well I'll know what kind of number it put up on the Dyno once Dave gets it tuned.

The big smile will definitely come when you have all that roll on power in higher gear. I know I still smile with how easy the trike rolls with all the torque I now have with my 117.

I opted with the Woods TW7H cam for the low end torque it makes.

I was after big torque for the weight of the trike plus myself.

I look forward to your posted numbers :)
 
Just got home from picking the bike up from JD's Cycle Works, Dave at JD's did one heck of a job tuning it using the TTS. For good measure I had Dave install the O2 sensors wire it so a Closed loop map could be used. I've only had a chance to take a quick little putt and all I can say is wow, I have the feeling this will make your skin tingle when you unleash the beast figure 125hp and 138ft/lbs of torque will get me where I want to go.

120hqdyno1.jpg
 
Mike, I know you changed out the clutch but what compensater did you use, SE ?
Really nice write up and you always do good pics.
 
Mike, I know you changed out the clutch but what compensater did you use, SE ?
Really nice write up and you always do good pics.

06 and earlier use a different style compensator which for the life of me I don't know why HD didn't stick with the same style. My compensator is stock, the only modification is for the compensator bolt lock that I run.
 
06 and earlier use a different style compensator which for the life of me I don't know why HD didn't stick with the same style. My compensator is stock, the only modification is for the compensator bolt lock that I run.
MAybe because of engine harmonics..cuts down on vibration to the camshaft??
 
MAybe because of engine harmonics..cuts down on vibration to the camshaft??

One thing I can say is this engine is one of the smoothest I've ridden little to no vibration, the more I ride it the more I like it. Power is on tap anytime you twist the throttle just the slightest, its got nice low end. The compensator's whole function in life is to protect the output side of the crank, it is meant to keep from twisting it.
 
...

With increased engine displacement and power a larger throttle body and bigger injectors is needed. This is a Horse Power Inc 55mm equipped with their 5.3gps injectors.

12032.jpg


...

I've been running the Doherty power pacc air cleaner system for quite some time, its a nice piece.

12034p.jpg


...


A builder recommended that I use a 55mm throttle body for the work I am planning to do to the engine. I found this thread from a Google search and had a couple of quuestions.

Was there any issues using the Doherty Power Pacc with the larger throttle body? Did you make any modifications to the Doherty Power Pacc prior to installing it or was it a direct bolt on?

Thanks ThumbUp
 
A builder recommended that I use a 55mm throttle body for the work I am planning to do to the engine. I found this thread from a Google search and had a couple of quuestions.

Was there any issues using the Doherty Power Pacc with the larger throttle body? Did you make any modifications to the Doherty Power Pacc prior to installing it or was it a direct bolt on?

Thanks ThumbUp

No issues at all and no modifications, but then I'm using a 55mm from HPI which accepts stock sized air cleaner back plates.
 

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