New Rear Rotors Warped on my TG??

A

Arctic Fox

May 14, 2024
45
96
Bellingham, WA
I just had new rotors (drag specialties) installed with Harley pads, rear bearings, and DK heavy retainer plates. When I left the shop, it seemed like the rotors were warped, coming to a stop. It seemed to get better, but it was noticeable at slow speeds when stopping today. I know these come with a black coating, so I figured they need to be broken in, so to speak (burnishing).

I called the mechanic. He said he noticed it. Thanks! They said to go down some steep hills and lightly apply the brakes. This may help. Well, I just tried it, and it didn't seem to help.

We've got a trip coming up in a week, and we just waited a week to get the rotors, so I'm running out of time. I may just take it and live with it.

I know I should pull the wheels, put my dial indicator on it, and check the runout, although I really don't know what's acceptable.
Thanks for any help on this!
 
Arctic Fox said:
Just had new rotors (drag specialties) installed with Harley pads, rear bearings and DK heavy retainer plates. When I left the shop it seemed like the rotors were warped coming up to a stop. It seemed to get better, but today it was very noticeable at slow speeds coming to a stop. I know these come with a black coating so I figured they need to be broken in so to speak (burnishing)??
Called the mechanic "he said he noticed it to" thanks! They said to go down some steep hills and lightly apply the brakes this may help, well just tried didn't seem to help.
We've got a trip coming up in a week and just waited a week to get the rotors, so I'm running out of time. I may just take it and live with it??
I know I should pull the wheels and put my dial indicator on it and check the run out, although I really don't know what's acceptable.
Thanks for any help on this!
Click to expand...
Your "mechanic" is an asshole. He did the work he owns it. Yes put your dial indicator on it. New rotors should not be warped is there an extra fee for that?
 
Checked the run out this morning, it's about 3-4 thousands out. To much in my opinion for such small rotors.
Hate to have new rotors resurfaced, wearing them out and haven't got any miles on them yet! But I guess no other choice at this point.
 
I would go back to wherever you bought them and had them installed. When you buy new, you expect it to be new and free of defects. There has to be a least some kind of warranty on them.

Many years ago, I had the rear brakes done on my Dodge Ram. It was done at a dealership. The rear brakes were drum brakes. Shortly after leaving and after driving around, I was getting pulsing in the brake pedal. I took it back for them to check. They found these new drums were out of round. I honestly don't remember if they replaced the drums or turned them but they fixed the problem. It cost me nothing extra.

Reading further, it looks like you ordered the rotors online and then had a local shop do the install? If so, I would contact the seller and discuss replacement and this would start the documenting that there is a problem.
 
That really surprises me, I thought Drag Specialty rotors were very good quality.

If you want to try something simple to see if it’s the rotor, take the wheel off and torque the wheel nuts back on. You might need to use a few washers under each nut. Put your dial indicator back on it and mark the rotor where the high spot is. Take the rotor back off the hub and rotate it 180 degrees on the hub and check it again. If the high spot is in the same place it’s the rotor. If it’s 180 degrees off, the hub or axle is bent.

You said they replaced the bearing retainer plates, so they would have had to take the axles out. I’ve never had a Harley Trike rear end apart, but if they screwed a slide hammer on to one of the wheel studs and started hammering to pull the axle, they could have bent it. I’ve seen it happen on Ford rear ends years ago.

As I’m sitting here thinking about it, you could also check the rear axle by just jacking up one side and spinning the tire. If you have a mag base on your indicator, find an anvil or a big chunk of steel to mount it to and put the indicator tip on the flat part of the outer rim lip.
 
Sorry, couple of others things I was sitting here thinking about.

How many miles were on the OEM rotors? Were you having any problems with them or were you just replacing bearings/pads/rotors as routine maintenance?

If you have a 0-1” micrometer, I’d check the rotor thickness also to see if there’s any variation. Pick 4 spots around it straight out from the hub bolt holes for easy reference. I’d measure the outer edge thickness and as far in as the throat of the micrometer allows.

Last thing and it’s grasping at straws. By chance, does your bike have ABS? If they flushed the brake fluid, wondering if they need to hook it up to the computer to purge them?
 
Lots of good ideas, no my independent shop supplied the rotors. I just bought the trike with 76k on it previous owner said it needed rear brakes and gave me the set of HD pads.

At this mileage I wanted to start out with fresh bearings all the way around. I was a little concerned that maybe they bent the axle possibly when they pressed off the gear, although I would think I would feel that at hwy speeds.
There going to call me on Tuesday when there open again, I'll see where this goes I guess. They tossed the OEM rotors but there probably still there if I can get them I will. They did say they were beyond turning them, but who knows.
Actually the brakes were just fine before they worked on it.
Thanks you guys,
 
HDUSA1 said:
That really surprises me, I thought Drag Specialty rotors were very good quality.

If you want to try something simple to see if it’s the rotor, take the wheel off and torque the wheel nuts back on. You might need to use a few washers under each nut. Put your dial indicator back on it and mark the rotor where the high spot is. Take the rotor back off the hub and rotate it 180 degrees on the hub and check it again. If the high spot is in the same place it’s the rotor. If it’s 180 degrees off, the hub or axle is bent.

You said they replaced the bearing retainer plates, so they would have had to take the axles out. I’ve never had a Harley Trike rear end apart, but if they screwed a slide hammer on to one of the wheel studs and started hammering to pull the axle, they could have bent it. I’ve seen it happen on Ford rear ends years ago.

As I’m sitting here thinking about it, you could also check the rear axle by just jacking up one side and spinning the tire. If you have a mag base on your indicator, find an anvil or a big chunk of steel to mount it to and put the indicator tip on the flat part of the outer rim lip.
Click to expand...
The rear axles just pull out once you unbolt the retainer plate, at least mine did.
 
I know you said you bought the rotors from Drag Specialties but what is the actual brand of rotors you bought? From a search on Drag Specialties, I would guess they are EBC? If so, they do have a 12 month warranty in which they would replace it refund your money.

Warranty - EBC Brakes

EBC Brakes are the leading online brake company offering brakes, pads, discs, rotors for automotive, motorcycle, mountain bike & racing - Warranty
www.ebcbrakes.com www.ebcbrakes.com
 
I don't know what brand they are, only thing I know is the independent shop got them from Drag Specialties. If these are out 3-4 thousandth I can't help but think that any replacements would be any better! I think I'm going to have deal with this issue while on my trip, maybe they will order replacements and get them installed when I get back. Unless I have these turned but then there goes my warranty! Or I spend $$$ to ship overnight!
 
You may be right. I went back to Drag Specialties where I had been looking. Only one rotor product popped up for TriGlides. I failed to scroll to the right under fitment and this time I did, it was only showing rotors for the front wheel. I apologize for that. I assumed since only one popped up, and trikes having different rear ends, it was going to be for the rear. EBC does show they sell automotive rotors but I would bet they probably didn't come from Drag Specialties then.

But in my experience, all rotors I have ever bought always came with some kind of warranty. Now you just need to figure out the manufacturer to check further. Did the shop order the rotors for you? If so, I would start with them to find out exactly what they ordered.
 
I did see where Drag Specialties does not offer any kind of warranty or exchange and that the manufacturer is responsible for the warranty.

Screenshot_20250407_230406_Brave.jpg

The odd part is they are listed as an actual Drag Specialties part. You may need to contact them to find out who actually makes those rotors. Sorry I couldn't be of more help.
 
Thanks Man for your effort! Like I said the independent shop (only one around, other than the HD dealership 75 miles away) ordered these rotors (whose ever they are) from Drag Specialties. I guess I'm screwed being there's no warranty from DS only the mfg's. I don't imagine this shop is about to air freight another set in at there expense. I couldn't expect them to do this, there very nice people at this shop.
I leave in less than a week for vacation and taking this Trike, dealing with a manufactures warranty would tie this Trike up for weeks! IMO.

Apparently 3 or 4 thousandth off is enough to cause this issue. I looked at an old Ford shop manual and they state that 2 thousandth is the max allowable on a Ford rotor (which is of course a larger rotor). In my simple little mind I would think that a larger auto rotor would be more forgiving than a small trike rotor??

Again in my simple mind if my rotors were off 4 thousandth (I only checked the inside surface of the rotor), it would be safe to assume that they would have to take off what 4 thousandth on both surfaces for roughly 10 thousandth total??

I've never resurfaced rotors so don't know how it's done, I assume they grind one side at a time till it's smooth over the entire area?

Anyway I should find out today after these guys call me, I will let everyone know what's going on! Thanks again for your input, (sorry for the long post, but maybe my issue might actually help another trike owner)
 
I know it's unusual to find Harley-Davidson dealer parts cheaper than aftermarket parts but that's what I did. When I replace the rotors on my tri glide 6 or so months ago, I checked with Drag Specialties, JP Cycles and other aftermarket people and got a better price from my Harley dealer. I believe they were at least $10 cheaper per rotor than anyone else. Have not had any problem with them.
 
JP Cycles sells the Drag Specialty rotors. There were 40 comments reviewing them. Almost all were positive, but one said they were defective and had to send them back. The other commented that one was bad when they put it on and had to be replaced. There were several comments about there were no directions included on what to do with the black finish on the rotor and whether or not to remove it before installing them.

Sounds like your Independent shop wants to figure it out as much as you do. They can’t afford to have an upset customer as they know their reputation relies on word of mouth. Good luck and hope they are able to get it sorted out quickly.
 
Rotors and drums only have a few thou of wear before they are out of spec. At least in the auto and truck world. They might be as the shop was trying to ease your mind on the need to replace them. BUT, being disc brakes, the rotors can easily and in my mind be reused again. Unless the rotors were really fubar'd, and you would know, they can still be run. I takes alot of wear to spit a pad out. Pads would be metal on metal and rotors ground to match. I see that alot having fleets come thru my shop. So I'd put them back on and roll until you get back and take care of it then. But thats me fwiw
 
Arctic Fox said:
Thanks Man for your effort! Like I said the independent shop (only one around, other than the HD dealership 75 miles away) ordered these rotors (whose ever they are) from Drag Specialties. I guess I'm screwed being there's no warranty from DS only the mfg's. I don't imagine this shop is about to air freight another set in at there expense. I couldn't expect them to do this, there very nice people at this shop.
I leave in less than a week for vacation and taking this Trike, dealing with a manufactures warranty would tie this Trike up for weeks! IMO.
Apparently 3 or 4 thousandth off is enough to cause this issue. I looked at an old Ford shop manual and they state that 2 thousandth is the max allowable on a Ford rotor (which is of course a larger rotor). In my simple little mind I would think that a larger auto rotor would be more forgiving than a small trike rotor??
Again in my simple mind if my rotors were off 4 thousandth (I only checked the inside surface of the rotor), it would be safe to assume that they would have to take off what 4 thousandth on both surfaces for roughly 10 thousandth total??
I've never resurfaced rotors so don't know how it's done, I assume they grind one side at a time till it's smooth over the entire area?
Anyway I should find out today after these guys call me, I will let everyone know what's going on! Thanks again for your input, (sorry for the long post, but maybe my issue might actually help another trike owner)
Click to expand...
It could be possible that there could be some debris under the mounting surface between the hub and rotor, did you check the runout at the outside edge of the rotor or closer to the center line.
 
The shop found one of the pads cocked a little and only making partial contact, they cleaned up the pins and lubes them to allow the pads to move freer. This should have already been done on a standard brake job IMO!! But I didn't tell them that, anyway there bringing it back today. They say it's better and only slightly noticeable coming to a stop, we will see I guess.

Of course there sticking to the 8 thousandth allowance according to HD, so mine out by "only" 4 thousandth there not bringing in another set of rotors (probably wouldn't be any better anyway).

So looks like I will be just living with this, in till next time I need a set of rotors of which I will probably go with OEM rotors.

I would like to see for myself out of a HD shop manual showing the specs for rear rotors, (maybe one of you guys can look this up?) Hey thanks everyone!
 
Well at least it will be functional for your trip. And if it is only slightly noticeable when coming to a stop, I'm sure it will still annoy you but small price to pay to be able to go on vacation with it.
 
Arctic Fox said:
The shop found one of the pads cocked a little and only making partial contact, they cleaned up the pins and lubes them to allow the pads to move freer. This should have already been done on a standard brake job IMO!! But I didn't tell them that, anyway there bringing it back today. They say it's better and only slightly noticeable coming to a stop, we will see I guess.
Of course there sticking to the 8 thousandth allowance according to HD, so mine out by "only" 4 thousandth there not bringing in another set of rotors (probably wouldn't be any better anyway).
So looks like I will be just living with this, in till next time I need a set of rotors of which I will probably go with OEM rotors.
I would like to see for myself out of a HD shop manual showing the specs for rear rotors, (maybe one of you guys can look this up?) Hey thanks everyone!
Click to expand...
Harley says 8 thousandth , get the old rotors back & have them turned ?
 
Got the trike back, took it for a quick spin seemed a lot better. Still noticeable but better. Probably the 3-4 thousandth run out. I'll take it on the trip and see how it does. So good to have it back! I love this thing, I want to get on it all the time! My lonely 013 Road glide sits in the shop and I don't miss it at all! With only 12.5k miles like new I don't plan on giving it away, so it looks like I will own it awhile!
 
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