Front brake modification

Mar 29, 2011
1,162
325
Mountain Home, AR
Name
Mike
Has anyone with a de-linked braking system, like Roadsmith, re-plumbed the front brakes so the front brake lever engages all the pucks in the front calipers?

If so, how did you do it?
 
Not a Gold Wing guy but I can relate what I did on my Victory with ABS. I installed a Champion kit which deletes the ABS function. Previously all my brake lines ran to the abs module. Champion uses plugs to fill the spot in abs where the rear is removed. Half way there. I pulled the abs module completely as well as all the brake lines. Re-plumbed the front brakes from master to a T then to the calipers. It can't be that much different for you. Hope this helps.
 
Not a Gold Wing guy but I can relate what I did on my Victory with ABS. I installed a Champion kit which deletes the ABS function. Previously all my brake lines ran to the abs module. Champion uses plugs to fill the spot in abs where the rear is removed. Half way there. I pulled the abs module completely as well as all the brake lines. Re-plumbed the front brakes from master to a T then to the calipers. It can't be that much different for you. Hope this helps.

Thanks. I'm sure it can be done by someone with the knowledge about the correct brake parts. There are now several pieces in the system not used but messing with brakes make me nervous beyond the normal bleeding and changing brake shoes. This is what happens when I do late night thinking. :D
 
Yes I understand. Mine actually turned out to be relatively simple as Victory makes an ABS and a non-ABS Version so all I needed to do was change the front brake lines and pull the abs fuse. Does Honda make a GW with non-linked brakes? If it does then there is your solution.
 
Has anyone with a de-linked braking system, like Roadsmith, re-plumbed the front brakes so the front brake lever engages all the pucks in the front calipers?

If so, how did you do it?
Interested in what you think this will accomplish??
IMO, the stopping power of the frt brakes is sufficient after being delinked, front from rear. The only reason for the "other" pucks is the linked system from rear to front.
I'd like to hear from MotorTrike on what works and what doesn't after their conversion?
I understand unlinking the front brake lever to the rear brakes but, I see no need to unlink the rear brake pedal from the front brake????
 
Interested in what you think this will accomplish??
IMO, the stopping power of the frt brakes is sufficient after being delinked, front from rear. The only reason for the "other" pucks is the linked system from rear to front.
I'd like to hear from MotorTrike on what works and what doesn't after their conversion?
I understand unlinking the front brake lever to the rear brakes but, I see no need to unlink the rear brake pedal from the front brake????

I have a Roadsmith and am fairly confident the primary reason for de-linking the brakes is that the OEM rear master cylinder does not have the volume requirement to operate the two VW auto calipers installed on the rear wheels plus the front portion of the original system.

The reason is to increase braking power as de-linking makes half the pucks non functional on the front calipers; two on the left and one on the right.

Like I said, an exercise in "what if". :xzqxz:
 
I have a Roadsmith and am fairly confident the primary reason for de-linking the brakes is that the OEM rear master cylinder does not have the volume requirement to operate the two VW auto calipers installed on the rear wheels plus the front portion of the original system.

The reason is to increase braking power as de-linking makes half the pucks non functional on the front calipers; two on the left and one on the right.

Like I said, an exercise in "what if". :xzqxz:

I would say that RS has decided the rear master cylinder can handle the volume required to operate the two VW auto calipers installed on the rear wheels plus the front portion of the original system, as they now offer a linked brake system on new trike jobs.
 
I would say that RS has decided the rear master cylinder can handle the volume required to operate the two VW auto calipers installed on the rear wheels plus the front portion of the original system, as they now offer a linked brake system on new trike jobs.


I did not know that. Good to know. I couldn't find anything on their website about this so I will call them in the morning. Thanks.
 
I would say that RS has decided the rear master cylinder can handle the volume required to operate the two VW auto calipers installed on the rear wheels plus the front portion of the original system, as they now offer a linked brake system on new trike jobs.


I called RS to follow up and you are partially correct. The rear brake pedal now operates the three front pucks like it used to. HOWEVER, the Seconday Master Cylinder, which is supplied fluid by the rear master cylinder, is deactivated so that none of that fluid goes to the rear brakes like in the original bike. As a matter of fact I was told they actually remove the SMC.

So, here's to progress! :clapping:

Here's a link to previous discussion I was unaware of. Shame on me for not paying attention.

http://www.triketalk.com/forum/thre...rd-anything-about-the-RS-going-to-links-brake
 
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I had a Champion kit installed on my 2010 about 4 years ago and asked what if anything did they do to give me full front braking since the front and rear were no longer linked. They explained to me they added a section of brake line that operated the other pistons that would not have been used so all pistons would be used. Looking at it, it's just a short section of tubing that jumps from one side to the other.
 
I had a Champion kit installed on my 2010 about 4 years ago and asked what if anything did they do to give me full front braking since the front and rear were no longer linked. They explained to me they added a section of brake line that operated the other pistons that would not have been used so all pistons would be used. Looking at it, it's just a short section of tubing that jumps from one side to the other.

Thanks for the info! :clapping:
 
To answer GHGoldwing's question, when Champion de-links the pedal from the front brakes, they disconnect the crossover line at the Proportioning Valve (from the rear brake), and then they do away with the crossover from the hand brake (which is hooked up to the single piston on the left caliper.. They then tie the crossover into the front hand brake at the tee.
This probably sounds confusing, but simply put, they hook up the front brake lever (via a switch of the crossover lines) to the plumbing that feeds the two pistons on the left caliper.
What this does is give you two pistons on each of the front calipers when using the hand brake!
This also leaves the hand brake hooked up to the secondary MC. The secondary MC remains hooked up to the Anti Dive Valve (to keep it functional), although it is disconnected from the rear brakes.
I have a 2013 Lehman Monarch II LLS and I've never liked the back brakes (they were still linked to the front brakes).
I spoke to Bill Swift at Champion, and he advised me to de-link the brakes per the Champion Installation Manual. The theory is that removing the front calipers from the pedal would help the rear MC supply more force to the rear calipers.
I did the work this week but I have yet to try them out.....its' cold and rainy here.




 
I called RS to follow up and you are partially correct. The rear brake pedal now operates the three front pucks like it used to. HOWEVER, the Seconday Master Cylinder, which is supplied fluid by the rear master cylinder, is deactivated so that none of that fluid goes to the rear brakes like in the original bike. As a matter of fact I was told they actually remove the SMC.

So, here's to progress! :clapping:

Here's a link to previous discussion I was unaware of. Shame on me for not paying attention.

http://www.triketalk.com/forum/thre...rd-anything-about-the-RS-going-to-links-brake


Thanks for the good detective work.
 

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