New trike

[vwbuild]

Hi--I purchased this trike sight unseen and have some issues to address.

Every time I take my foot off the brake on the floorboard to push on the gas I roll back. I live in the mountains where everything is hilly. I believe my front end is an Honda 1200. Is there a different front end I could buy or does anyone have ideas what to do for a brake??? 2nd. problem is the steering is really heavy to the right and the left. Is this normal or is it how this trike was built? What I mean by heavy is that when I steer all the way to the left or right, it is difficult bringing the steering back to driving straight. Any idea why this would be. Just need some help with things I wish were a little different.

Thanks much.

 

[slick rick]

Looks good ,,jack the front up and see how much flop it has , if to much tighten the neck bearings . You may want to check the bearings also and it may have a little to much trail . I bought mine with a springer and had to fine tune it for a year before I got it right , seems that the folks didn't know very much about springers .

 

[vwbuild]

Looks good ,,jack the front up and see how much flop it has , if to much tighten the neck bearings . You may want to check the bearings also and it may have a little to much trail . I bought mine with a springer and had to fine tune it for a year before I got it right , seems that the folks didn't know very much about springers .

Thanks for your reply. Are you thinking that maybe the steering shouldn't be so loose? Guess I need to also check the rake and trail. Thanks

 

[Loner]

Addressing your issues individually,

1. As to needing a brake while you take off on a hill, the easiest method would be just what you mentioned. Find a caliper and brake disk to fit the front end (from salvage or ebay, etc.) and install in a stock setup. As to the front end, you have a VIN plate on the neck there which should give you a headstart to the manufacturer. A second possible solution might be to add a VW emergency brake handle and cabling mounted just to the left of the gas tank (on the floor is OK). That way, use your left hand to hold it steady while disengaging the clutch. A third easiest but perhaps the most awkward method would be to add a line-lock in the brake line within easy reach. That offers a large push-pull button to lock the brakes and hold them as long as it is engaged. Press the brake, pull the line-lock (or as a brand name 'line-lok') to lock, get your gas and clutch working and press the line-lock to release. That will take a little getting used to for a smooth takeoff, but it should work.

2.

The heavy forks you are experiencing are a product of simple geometrics. Addressing as trail, your trail factor with the raked neck you have will significantly be on the high range (ideal being 3-4" by most trike techs). The only solution to get easy steering is to either add a set of raked triple trees or redesign the front end to move the axle forward without changing any other key elements (i.e., going to a springer or a leading link type front end). Most cost effective (unless you are a good fabricator) will be to find you a 4.5 to 6 degree raked trees set off Ebay. You can find them as low as <$200 if you shop and are patient. You'll also have to keep in mind your particular brand of front end to see how readily available those raked triple trees are. Installation is a relatively easy do-it-yourself job. As an educated guess, 4.5 degree raked trees would give you a reasonable compromise for all around handling, while 6 degree trees would give you steering virtually effortless throughout its range but the front end may tend to feel a bit light at highway speeds (but you will get used to it - 6 degree is what I always go with).

Good luck in your project(s) - you'll love it when you're done!

 

[vwbuild]

Addressing your issues individually,

1. As to needing a brake while you take off on a hill, the easiest method would be just what you mentioned. Find a caliper and brake disk to fit the front end (from salvage or ebay, etc.) and install in a stock setup. As to the front end, you have a VIN plate on the neck there which should give you a headstart to the manufacturer. A second possible solution might be to add a VW emergency brake handle and cabling mounted just to the left of the gas tank (on the floor is OK). That way, use your left hand to hold it steady while disengaging the clutch. A third easiest but perhaps the most awkward method would be to add a line-lock in the brake line within easy reach. That offers a large push-pull button to lock the brakes and hold them as long as it is engaged. Press the brake, pull the line-lock (or as a brand name 'line-lok') to lock, get your gas and clutch working and press the line-lock to release. That will take a little getting used to for a smooth takeoff, but it should work.

2.

The heavy forks you are experiencing are a product of simple geometrics. Addressing as trail, your trail factor with the raked neck you have will significantly be on the high range (ideal being 3-4" by most trike techs). The only solution to get easy steering is to either add a set of raked triple trees or redesign the front end to move the axle forward without changing any other key elements (i.e., going to a springer or a leading link type front end). Most cost effective (unless you are a good fabricator) will be to find you a 4.5 to 6 degree raked trees set off Ebay. You can find them as low as <$200 if you shop and are patient. You'll also have to keep in mind your particular brand of front end to see how readily available those raked triple trees are. Installation is a relatively easy do-it-yourself job. As an educated guess, 4.5 degree raked trees would give you a reasonable compromise for all around handling, while 6 degree trees would give you steering virtually effortless throughout its range but the front end may tend to feel a bit light at highway speeds (but you will get used to it - 6 degree is what I always go with).

Good luck in your project(s) - you'll love it when you're done!

I was just out checking for slop in the steering like Slick Rick suggested and it seems tight everywhere. I raised the front end up and steering was real easy with no hesitation or wiggle anywhere. So after I learn how to check rake and trail, I will be checking that next.

As I mentioned earlier I believe this is a Honda 1200 front. The vin number attached to the neck isn't from a Honda but is a vin that was attached by the dmv in Arizona. I guess i'll search Honda 1200's first and see what I find there for a front brake. Transfering my foot off the brake to the gas is tricky on this trike. I end up popping wheelies every time or just killing the engine. Funny, I have manual transmissions in jeeps here but that is a different story when taking off from a stop and headed up a hill. Thanks for the information and i'll fill everybody in as I figure this out. Thanks again.

 

[vwbuild]

I was just out checking for slop in the steering like Slick Rick suggested and it seems tight everywhere. I raised the front end up and steering was real easy with no hesitation or wiggle anywhere. So after I learn how to check rake and trail, I will be checking that next. As I mentioned earlier I believe this is a Honda 1200 front. The vin number attached to the neck isn't from a Honda but is a vin that was attached by the dmv in Arizona. I guess i'll search Honda 1200's first and see what I find there for a front brake. Transfering my foot off the brake to the gas is tricky on this trike. I end up popping wheelies every time or just killing the engine. Funny, I have manual transmissions in jeeps here but that is a different story when taking off from a stop and headed up a hill. Thanks for the information and i'll fill everybody in as I figure this out.

Thanks again.

I was just reading an article where a vw trike owner was asking weather a hand brake could be used to activate the rear disk brakes. There were no replies. Would anyone out there know how to set this up?

 

[vw driver]

It looks like your trike has a foot operated accelerator. Probably the stock front wheel had dual disc brakes. I am not a fan of no front brakes but people build them that way. I would look for a stock front wheel with the wheel, discs, calipers and the handle bar mounted master cylinder. After installing all of that you will have front brakes independent of the rear brakes and you can use the front brake to hold the trike on a hill with the right hand brake lever while letting the clutch out and giving it gas. In my opinion it should have been built that way in the first place. Then you can co-ordinate the front and rear brakes when stopping just like on a motorcycle. I agree with the others, the rake and trail are causing the wheel flop.

 

[slick rick]

You can install a inline stop for those rear brakes ( a button you pull to lock the brakes ) never used one but not that expensive . I was looking at the pics although hard to tell it seems you may even have negative trail which is not good .


A line straight down from the axle , a line running in the direction of the neck and measure the distance between the two . The line from the neck should be in front of the axle , in a perfect world ( according to what I've read is 3 inches ) mine runs about 5 but with new neck bearings performs as good as any cruiser in the curves . Good luck and let us know Rick

 

[Loner]

One other easy solution for your throttle/brake problem. Get a universal throttle assembly and a 10-ft cable assembly and add the throttle on the handlebar like a conventional motorcycle. Easy to work that way, I use that method on all my VW trikes.

 

[vwbuild]

One other easy solution for your throttle/brake problem. Get a universal throttle assembly and a 10-ft cable assembly and add the throttle on the handlebar like a conventional motorcycle. Easy to work that way, I use that method on all my VW trikes.

Thanks Loner--I like that idea the best so far. I finally went and checked for a model/manufacturer number on the front wheel I have now. There is a number RW-168 impregnated into the wheel. It is an 80 spoke wheel. There are also 5 threaded holes on both sides of the hub. It appears that this wheel was made for brakes. I wish I new what model number or manufacturer this number represented. Oh yea--I hardly ever get emails saying I have had replies to my thread.

Anybody know why? Thanks again

 

[vw driver]

Before you spent money on a cheap, easy fix I would check with your state DMV and see if you are required by law to have a front brake. I know here in Washington state a trike is licensed as a motorcycle and a front brake is mandatory. I'm no expert but I don't understand why anyone would build a trike or a motorcycle without a front brake in the first place but that's just me. Adding a front brake may not be the cheapest solution but it is the SAFEST solution. What's your life worth?

 

[stinger608]

Hey VWbuild, first that is a sweet looking trike. Now on the front end issues; do you know what the front end came off of? IE Honda, Kawai, Yamaha, etc...?

That might help in finding what wheel it is. Example, if the front end was off of a Honda blabla, the 80 spoke wheel may have been a custom replacement and allow for stock Honda front disks and brakes.

Also you might check in the J & P online catalog to see if you spot what appears to be the same wheel.

J & P: http://www.jpcycles.com/

 

[vwbuild]

Hey VWbuild, first that is a sweet looking trike. Now on the front end issues; do you know what the front end came off of? IE Honda, Kawai, Yamaha, etc...?

That might help in finding what wheel it is. Example, if the front end was off of a Honda blabla, the 80 spoke wheel may have been a custom replacement and allow for stock Honda front disks and brakes.

Also you might check in the J & P online catalog to see if you spot what appears to be the same wheel.

J & P: http://www.jpcycles.com/

Stinger--thanks for your reply. I found out that this has a Honda gl1100 front fork. The guy had a axle shaft made to accept a Harley wheel. So, this wheel retails for over $800 so I would like to keep it--but I think I better find a complete front end off an 83 Honda gl1100 with brakes and hand controls. I've done local searches but haven't found anything. Anyone out there close to Colorado that had this setup and wants to sell it get back with me. Oh yea--thanks for the trike compliment.

 

[stinger608]

Stinger--thanks for your reply. I found out that this has a Honda gl1100 front fork. The guy had a axle shaft made to accept a Harley wheel. So, this wheel retails for over $800 so I would like to keep it--but I think I better find a complete front end off an 83 Honda gl1100 with brakes and hand controls. I've done local searches but haven't found anything. Anyone out there close to Colorado that had this setup and wants to sell it get back with me. Oh yea--thanks for the trike compliment.

That's great that you know what front end it is! Did you check on J & P to see if they had front calipers for a GL1100?

If its in fact a Harley style front wheel, you should be able to grab the rotors off J & P without issues. And maybe you can modify the front forks to hold harley style calipers as well.

 

[vwbuild]

That's great that you know what front end it is! Did you check on J & P to see if they had front calipers for a GL1100?

If its in fact a Harley style front wheel, you should be able to grab the rotors off J & P without issues. And maybe you can modify the front forks to hold harley style calipers as well.

I'm hoping to find a whole different front end--wheel and all. Then if I need parts i'll know how to put things back together. Thought I found one but some 1100's are more narrow than others. A GL measures 5-1/2" between the upper part of forks. Another model Honda same year only measures 4-1/2" between the upper part of the forks. Thanks again.

 

[stinger608]

I'm hoping to find a whole different front end--wheel and all. Then if I need parts i'll know how to put things back together. Thought I found one but some 1100's are more narrow than others. A GL measures 5-1/2" between the upper part of forks. Another model Honda same year only measures 4-1/2" between the upper part of the forks. Thanks again.

Ah, that makes good sense. Well bro, I'll keep an eye out for any up here in Wyoming. Would probably be worth the trip for ya if I seen one close. epper:

Edit:

Actually you might get with this fella in Denver:
http://denver.craigslist.org/mpo/4930812459.html

Says he has GL1100 parts.

 

[vwbuild]

Ah, that makes good sense. Well bro, I'll keep an eye out for any up here in Wyoming. Would probably be worth the trip for ya if I seen one close. epper:

Edit:

Actually you might get with this fella in Denver:
http://denver.craigslist.org/mpo/4930812459.html

Says he has GL1100 parts.

Hey--Your right up the street. I go up your way all the time. Yea--keep an eye out and I'll check into the guy you sent me. Appreciate your help.

 

[cavie]

To put breaks on the front your gonna need to ditch the Harley wheel.

 

[vwbuild]

To put breaks on the front your gonna need to ditch the Harley wheel.

Cavie--Yea--I really like this front wheel. Have rear wheels to match. Somewhere down the line I want another frame and put a Harley front springer on it just to use this wheel again. Meanwhile I need a Honda front .. A guy in Wyoming turned me on to parts in Colorado so hopefully I can finally get some use out of this trike. Finally got my motorcycle license last week after not having one for 35 years. Thanks for your input.

 

[stinger608]

Cavie--Yea--I really like this front wheel. Have rear wheels to match. Somewhere down the line I want another frame and put a Harley front springer on it just to use this wheel again. Meanwhile I need a Honda front .. A guy in Wyoming turned me on to parts in Colorado so hopefully I can finally get some use out of this trike. Finally got my motorcycle license last week after not having one for 35 years. Thanks for your input.

Rather than changing the complete frame, have the neck cut off and a Harley neck welded on. That would probably save ya enough bucks to pay for the springer front end.

 

[vwbug72501]

New Trike

VWBuild,

You don't necessarily have to replace the wheel or the neck to get front brakes. First, find out what Harley the spool came from and look at the rotor(s) for that spool. Then check out the calipers for both the Harley and GL1100. Here are pictures of the front end that is going on my mid-engine trike. It consists of a GL1500 Easy-Steer triple tree, CBR900RR forks (45mm dia), CBR900RR calipers, and a Harley VRSC wheel and rotors. I had to fabricate an axle to go from metric (25mm) to SAE (1 in)and some caliper repositioning plates to get the Honda calipers correctly positioned on the Harley rotors. You can probably use the repositioning plates to adjust the caliper to rotor fit.

 

[DeathBySnuSnu]

I have the front from my 85 wing.
I am changing to a springer styled leading link and a kasawaki front wheel.
The wing front wheel is a 16 inch diameter.

 

[vw driver]

View attachment 25989View attachment 25990View attachment 25991View attachment 25992View attachment 25993View attachment 25994View attachment 25995
Hi--I purchased this trike sight unseen and have some issues to address. Every time I take my foot off the brake on the floorboard to push on the gas I roll back. I live in the mountains where everything is hilly. I believe my front end is an Honda 1200. Is there a different front end I could buy or does anyone have ideas what to do for a brake??? 2nd. problem is the steering is really heavy to the right and the left. Is this normal or is it how this trike was built? What I mean by heavy is that when I steer all the way to the left or right, it is difficult bringing the steering back to driving straight. Any idea why this would be. Just need some help with things I wish were a little different. Thanks much.

It's difficult to tell from the pictures but it appears your axle may positioned on the back side of the sliders.

 

[vwbuild]

VWBuild,

You don't necessarily have to replace the wheel or the neck to get front brakes. First, find out what Harley the spool came from and look at the rotor(s) for that spool. Then check out the calipers for both the Harley and GL1100. Here are pictures of the front end that is going on my mid-engine trike. It consists of a GL1500 Easy-Steer triple tree, CBR900RR forks (45mm dia), CBR900RR calipers, and a Harley VRSC wheel and rotors. I had to fabricate an axle to go from metric (25mm) to SAE (1 in)and some caliper repositioning plates to get the Honda calipers correctly positioned on the Harley rotors. You can probably use the repositioning plates to adjust the caliper to rotor fit.

Rider--I was to drive 200 miles tomorrow to look at parts for this trike until you mentioned that there are caliper repositioning plates that could correct my brakes. My wheel is a Ridewright wheel and there are rotors available for it. The years that this wheel fits are 1984 to 1999 Harley. The models include FXST-B&D, FLSTN-C-SC, All FLH D/D front, ALL FLH S/D front and ALL FXDX and XL D/D front. Most of these I have no idea as to what they are. I found out that if I change the front wheel and buy all the brake parts, the brake handle/reservoir from the Honda GL1100 wont fit on my 1" Harley handlebars. Now the guy is telling me that I need a Harley reservoir for my 1" bars because the GL1100 has 7/8" bars. I haven't purchased anything as of now. Where do I find these repositioning plates you mention? Hope to hear from you today before I invest in another front wheel. Thanks

 

[vwbuild]

VWBuild,

You don't necessarily have to replace the wheel or the neck to get front brakes. First, find out what Harley the spool came from and look at the rotor(s) for that spool. Then check out the calipers for both the Harley and GL1100. Here are pictures of the front end that is going on my mid-engine trike. It consists of a GL1500 Easy-Steer triple tree, CBR900RR forks (45mm dia), CBR900RR calipers, and a Harley VRSC wheel and rotors. I had to fabricate an axle to go from metric (25mm) to SAE (1 in)and some caliper repositioning plates to get the Honda calipers correctly positioned on the Harley rotors. You can probably use the repositioning plates to adjust the caliper to rotor fit.

Rider--I just did a search for rotor sizes. The man at Ridewright that sells my wheel and rotors told me I need a 13" rotor. I did a search for 84-99 applicable Harleys and found 11.5" rotors. I did a search for GL1100 rotors and found 276mm rotors which measures 10.8661417". I just don't see how my GL1100 fork with calipers could fit any of the Harley rotors unless it's how they measure from wheel center. My wheel is 21". Not sure what size wheel is on Harley or Honda. I'm sure this would make a difference but too complicated for my pea brain. Thanks again.

 

[vwbuild]

Rider--I just did a search for rotor sizes. The man at Ridewright that sells my wheel and rotors told me I need a 13" rotor. I did a search for 84-99 applicable Harleys and found 11.5" rotors. I did a search for GL1100 rotors and found 276mm rotors which measures 10.8661417". I just don't see how my GL1100 fork with calipers could fit any of the Harley rotors unless it's how they measure from wheel center. My wheel is 21". Not sure what size wheel is on Harley or Honda. I'm sure this would make a difference but too complicated for my pea brain. Thanks again.

Rider--correction already. Ridewright did tell me 11.5 mesh rotor. Not the 13" mesh rotor I stated above.

 

[DeathBySnuSnu]

Ok..
I am gonna try to help. Don't get mad at me, I can be a bit blunt.

Stiff steering.
A wing has LOTS of trail to begin with. Made for straight highways and speeds to match.
It has been "raked". Tilted farther out. This makes even more trail. The rim/tire has been changed from 16 to 21 inch. This increases trail even more.
So you have huge amounts of trail. This makes it stiff to steer. Lucky for you that you have a rear engine and light front so it is rideable. Engineering error in frame design.
Live with it or change the front end.

Front brake.
Get the aftermarket harley brake complete.
As far as I know "they" don't make adapter brackets. That would be the part you make. That is why these are called "custom".
Typically build out of a mix and match assortment of parts that were never meant to fit together. The only reason anything works on a custom is because you made it work. Most of the guys with home built customs really enjoy this challenge of making things work.
Hang in there and become a custom guy or switch to a store bought.
Personally I would get out the tools, do the math, and build a new leading link front end complete with brakes and all the correct geometry for your specific app. A fun challenge and well worth it because you have a good looking trike to start with. You have already begun going down the custom path. You have researched the differences in the different makes of parts. A critical first step.

 

[vwbuild]

Ok..
I am gonna try to help. Don't get mad at me, I can be a bit blunt.

Stiff steering.
A wing has LOTS of trail to begin with. Made for straight highways and speeds to match.
It has been "raked". Tilted farther out. This makes even more trail. The rim/tire has been changed from 16 to 21 inch. This increases trail even more.
So you have huge amounts of trail. This makes it stiff to steer. Lucky for you that you have a rear engine and light front so it is rideable. Engineering error in frame design.
Live with it or change the front end.

Front brake.
Get the aftermarket harley brake complete.
As far as I know "they" don't make adapter brackets. That would be the part you make. That is why these are called "custom".
Typically build out of a mix and match assortment of parts that were never meant to fit together. The only reason anything works on a custom is because you made it work. Most of the guys with home built customs really enjoy this challenge of making things work.
Hang in there and become a custom guy or switch to a store bought.
Personally I would get out the tools, do the math, and build a new leading link front end complete with brakes and all the correct geometry for your specific app. A fun challenge and well worth it because you have a good looking trike to start with. You have already begun going down the custom path. You have researched the differences in the different makes of parts. A critical first step.

Death by SNU SNU--I welcome blunt--no problem. I know you guys out there are trying to help me and I welcome any input I can get. I have been working on the Harley part tonight. I'm so busy these days and can't seem to find much time to get anything done. Wish I knew someone in this neck of the woods that could help me out. I have only seen one VW trike around here is the last 19 years. Everything depends on the help I get from this forum. Thanks again.

 

[DeathBySnuSnu]

http://www.choppercompendium.com/ccforum/viewforum.php?f=34&sid=1fe14eae0a9bbd770adcfc0ef450c7ae

- - - Updated - - -

- - - Updated - - -

http://www.angelfire.com/rebellion/trikerbob60/trikerbob59/build-a-leading-link.html

 

[stinger608]

First; there is some great information here.

Where do I find these repositioning plates you mention?

I would imagine that he made these or had them made. You might have to have someone down your way build these. You would probably have to have the rotors and calipers in hand in order to fab these plates up properly. Any decent machine shop should be able to build them fairly quick. Probably going to be a bit pricey though.