Installing new rake kit

I am installing my new rake kit that I got from bazooka. I do not have any install instructions.the two thing's I am not sure of is how the tube ext go on and what is the torque spec on the sterring head nut. Thanks for any help.
 
I am installing my new rake kit that I got from bazooka. I do not have any install instructions.the two thing's I am not sure of is how the tube ext go on and what is the torque spec on the sterring head nut. Thanks for any help.


Torque the steering stem nut to 40 lbs then vigorously rotate both the upper and the lower trees individually back and forth several times left to right. This is to insure the new tapered bearing races (cups) and bearings are seated properly. Then, loosen the torque to between 30 and 35 lbs as a final setting. You will notice a slight resistance to turning the trees but that is what you want. Now you may do the final assembly. It is always a good idea to purchase a shop manual specific to your bike, any major brand such as Clymers, Haynes, Honda, etc is good. If you run into a snag, call me at (346)800-7946.

I am also attaching a link for a PDF of the GL1500 install instructions below. You may opt to forgo the fork rebuild (seals & bushings) section at the top of the instructions if it is not needed. If however it is needed, its the perfect time to do so before re-assembling the front end:

GL1500 Rake Kit Install
 
removing old 1500 bearing races is more difficult vs 1800,,assuming the kit still requires that to be done.
pm me if you need some help,, ive done a few.
 
removing old 1500 bearing races is more difficult vs 1800,,assuming the kit still requires that to be done.
pm me if you need some help,, ive done a few.

Yes be SURE and remove the old bearing races.
 
I got the upper race out but can not get the lower race out. Is there a good way of getting it out?

You can drive out the bottom race from the top by using a long, large flat blade screwdriver, you have to catch the lip of the race with the edge of the screwdriver and tap briskly on either side of it until it drops out the bottom. The lip is small and can sometimes be a PITA, so if you have difficulty doing it that way, you can do as I do and use a Dremel tool and a diamond-coated metal cut-off disc (Harbor Freight Disc) and cut through one side of the race and it will easily drive out.

Put the new tapered races in the freezer for at least a couple of hours, or preferably overnight before you install them and they will go right in and seat much easier. Use a tapered bearing race driver tool (H.F. Race Tool) or a 1 7/8" or 2" trailer hitch ball to drive the race into the frame and set the race. Make sure to tap it in slightly to get it started and make sure it is going in straight. After its started, give it several good strong taps until it is FULLY seated, if not it will seat itself as its ridden and get slop in the front and have to be re-tightened at the steering stem nut. If you have any questions, call me at (346)800-7946.
 
also heat up the neck with a heat gun helps..
if the race gets warm while ur installing buy some dust it and turn the can upside down (using the propellent to cool) and spray it to continue the cooling of the race

as zook said use the screw driver-- if that dont work. get a threaded rod and put a thin washer on it ( or grind down a washer that will drop in the small gap) and hammer away from above.
 
I got the race out with a treaded rod with two nuts and a washer.And help from a friend prying over on the washer from the bottom. Thanks for all the help.
 
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