Warranty issues Security light coming on, bad wiring, and also not starting in gear

hardwickbv

1500+ Posts
Gold Member
Mar 5, 2017
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Mitchell, IN
Name
Bob
Warranty issues Security light coming on, bad wiring, and also not starting in gear

On my ride in this morning I had to stop at a light and while sitting the security light came on.

Since it is red and it got me a little concerned until I figure out it was the security light.

It went off once I got back in motion but when I slowed down to park it came back on.

This is the coldest morning I have rode it so far but not bad at 46 degrees.

Could the FOB battery be weak, flaking out due to the cold and need replaced?

Any ideas?

2017 Tri-glide.

Thanks

Bob
 
Last edited:
I doubt it's the fob battery. Me, I'd make the ride to my dealer on a Saturday and let them plug in the Tech II to check for codes. The trike is under warranty. Let them mess with it. Ymmv .............. :Coffee:
 
I doubt it's the fob battery. Me, I'd make the ride to my dealer on a Saturday and let them plug in the Tech II to check for codes. The trike is under warranty. Let them mess with it. Ymmv .............. :Coffee:

The good thing is I am taking in tomorrow to have them fix a couple warranty isses.

It won't start in gear and I found a wire harness for the auxiliary lights that has been pinched/cut that is showing bare wire.

I will just add this to the list.

Bob
 
You can diagnose your trouble codes here

Is there a code or message in your odometer window now? It could be a weak battery in your fob, however it may not start next key cycle then. Take it in to the dealer if you have warranty, Good Luck

Harley Trouble Codes

The following procedure will instruct in retrieving and clearing ECM Diagnostic Trouble Codes and TSM/TSSM codes through the Harley guage cluster as well as a list of codes.

1- Turn Ignition switchto OFF & Run/Stop switch is to Run.

2- Push odometer resetbutton in & hold.

3- Turnignition switchto Ignition and release the odometer reset button. Background lighting should illuminate, speedometer needle should sweep its full range and indicator lamps (battery, security, low fuel, check engine and cruise) should illuminate. The word "diag" should then appear.

4 - Push the odometer resetbutton once and you will seethe selection menu "PSSPt" with the first P flashing.

5 - Each letter represents an area of the diagnostics module. The module that is flashing is the one you are going to check. To move from one letter (module) to the next, you push the odometer resetbutton one time. (from P to S to SP to t and back to P, etc.)

P = ECM/ICM(Electronic Control Module)[EFI] /Ignition Control Module[Carbureted])

S = TSM/TSSM (Turn Signal/ Security Module)

SP = speedometer

T = tachometer

6 - To get the DTC within an area of diagnostics, push and hold the odometer resetbutton in for 5 seconds and release. If there are any DTC's the code will be displayed or the word "none" will appear if there are no DTC's. Push the odometer resetbutton again to view additional codes if they exist.

7 - Record the codes.

8 - If DTC's are not to be cleared, Press and release the odometer resetbutton. Part number of module will be displayed.

NOTE: To determine if a code is current or historic, clear the displayed code by pushing in and holding the odometer reset button ( longer than 5 seconds) until 'clear' comes up. Release the odometer reset button. Turn OFF the ignition switch. Run your bike and shut it down then recheck the DTC's again by repeating steps 1 to 9. If the code is current it will reappear.

9 - Press and release the odometer reset button to continue to the next module.

10 - Turn Ignition switch to OFF.

On models not equipped with a tachometer "No Rsp" will appear when the tachometer identifier is selected.

"No Rsp" (no response) will also appear if the run/off switch is in the off position when doing this procedure.

--------------------------

HFSM = Hands Free Security Module

TSM = Turn signalmodule

DTC’s are designated by a P,C,B or U

P codes indicate issues monitored by ECM

C codes indicate an issue with ABS

B codes are set by Radio, Instruments and BCM

U codes indicate a communication problems with the modules



Fault Code Abbreviation List

ABS – Anti-Lock Braking System

ACR – Automatic Compression Release

AFR – Air Fuel Ratio

AIS – Active Intake Solenoid

ATS – Air Temperature Sensor

BAS – Bank Angle Sensor

BCM – Body Control Module

CAN – Controller Area Network

CCM – Cruise Control Module

CKP – Crank Position Sensor

DLC – Datalink Connector

DTC – Diagnostic Trouble Codes

ECM – Electronic Control Module

ECT – Engine Coolant Temperature

ECU – Electronic Control Unit

EFI – Electronic Fuel Injection

EFP – Electronic Fuel Pump

ET – Engine Temperature sensor

FI – Fuel Injectors

FPR – Fuel Pressure regulator

H-DSSS – Harley-Davidson Smart Security System

HCU – Hydraulic Control Unit, ABS

[/stag_one_half][stag_one_half_last] HFSM – Hands Free Security Module

HO2S – Heated Oxygen Sensor

IAC – Idle Air Control actuator

IAT – Intake Air Temperature sensor

ICM – Ignition Control Module

IMAP – MAP + IAT in one unit

ISS – Ion Sensing System

JSS – Jiffy Stand Sensor

LHCM – Left Hand Control Module

MAP – Manifold Absolute Pressure Sensor

MHR – Right Hand Control Module

RCM – Reverse Control Module

TCA – Throttle Control Actuator

TGS – Twist Grip Sensor

TMAP – Intake Air Temperature / Manifold Absolute Pressure equipment

TPS – Throttle Position Sensor

TSM / TSSM – (Turn Signal / Turn Signal Security Module)

VE – Volume Efficiency

VIN – Vehicle identification number

VSS – Vehicle Speed ​​Sensor

WSS – Wheel Speed ​​Sensor




P0031 Front HO2S low/open

P0032 Front HO2S shorted/high

P0051 Rear HO2S low/open

P0052 Rear HO2S shorted/high

P0072 AAT sensor low

P0073 AAT sensor high/open

P0107 MAP sensor failed low/open

P0107 Map Sensor Open/Low

P0108 MAP sensor failed high/open port

P0112 IAT Voltage Low

P0113 IAT Voltage Open/High

P0117 ET Sensor Low

P0118 ET Sensor High

P0120 TPS1 Range Error

P0122 TPS1 Low

P0123 TPS2 High/Open

P0131 Front Oxygen Sensor Low / Engine Lean

P0132 Front Oxygen Sensor High / Engine Rich

P0134 Front Oxygen Sensor Inactive

P0151 Rear Oxygen Sensor Low / Engine Lean

P0152 Rear Oxygen Sensor High / Engine Rich

P0154 Rear Oxygen Sensor Inactive

P0220 TPS2 Range Error

P0222 TPS2 Low/Open

P0223 TPS2 High/Open

P0261 Front Injector Open/Low

P0262 Front Injector High

P0263 Rear Injector Open/Low

P0264 Rear Injector High

P0265 Rear injector shorted high

P0371 CKP sensor wrong number of pulses

P0373 CKP Sensor Intermittent

P0374 CKP Sensor Synch Error

P0444 Purge Solenoid Open/Low

P0445 Purge Solenoid High

P0501 VSS Sensor Low

P0502 VSS Sensor High/Open

P0503 VSS failed high

P0505 Idle speed control unstable

P0562 Battery/ECM Voltage Low

P0563 Battery/ECM Voltage High

P0572 Brake Switch Low

P0577 Cruise Control Input High

P0603 ECM EEPROM Memory Error

P0605 ECM FLASH Memory Error

P0641 5 Volt Reference 1 Out of Range

P0651 5 Volt Reference 2 Out of Range

P0691 Fan/cooling relay output low/open

P0692 Fan/cooling relay output high

P1001 System Relay Coil Open/Low

P1002 System Relay Coil High/Shorted

P1003 System relay contacts open

P1004 System Relay Contacts Closed

P1009 VTD Disabled Fuel Due to Incorrect Password

P1010 Missing Password

P1017 ET indicates overheating

P1019 ECT Difference (high temp)

P1270 TGS 2 A/D Validation Error

P1351 Front Ignition Coil Driver Open/Low

P1352 Front Ignition Coil Driver High/Shorted

P1353 Front Cylnder No Combustion

P1354 Rear Ignition Coil Driver Open/Low

P1355 Rear Ignition Coil Driver High/Shorted

P1356 Rear Cylinder No Combustion

P1357 Front Cylinder Combustion Intermittent

P1358 Rear Cylinder Combustion Intermittent

P1475 Exhaust Actuation Position Error

P1477 Exhaust Actuator Open/Low

P1478 Exhaust Actuator Shorted/High

P1501 Jiffy Stand Sensor Low

P1502 Jiffy Stand Sensor High

P1510 EFI Limited Performance Mode

P1511 EFI Power Management Mode

P1512 EFI Forced Idle Mode

P1514 ETC Air Flow Fault/Error

P1600 EFI Module Processor Internal Error / Watchdog Error

P1608 Loss of continuous battery

P1655 ACR solenoid low/open

P1656 ACR solenoid shorted high

P1691 Cooling fan left low/open

P1692 Cooling fan left shorted high

P1693 Cooling fan right low/open

P1694 Cooling fan right shorted high

P2100 EFI Motor Circuit Open

P2101 EFI Motor Circuit Range Performance (Actuation Error)

P2102 EFI Motor Circuit Low

P2103 EFI Motor Circuit High

P2105 EFI Forced engine shutdown

P2107 EFI Module Processor Internal Fault

P2119 EFI Motor Throttle Body RangePerformance

P2122 TGS1 Low/Open

P2123 TGS1 High

P2127 TGS2 Low/Open

P2128 TGS2 High

P2135 TPS Correlation Error

P2138 TGS Correlation Error (Twist grip sensor)

P2176 EFI Closed Position Not Learned

P2184 ECT sensor low

P2185 ECT sensor high

P2300 Ignition coil driver low/open (front)

P2301 Ignition coil driver shorted high (front)

P2303 Ignition coil driver low/open (rear)

P2304 Ignition coil driver shorted high (rear
 
Not understanding the not starting in gear issue some are having. My trike starts in gear w/o issue all the time. I don't even have to pull the clutch lever back all the way. Just enough to disengage the clutch. Does not matter if I use the foot or hand brake.
 
Not understanding the not starting in gear issue some are having. My trike starts in gear w/o issue all the time. I don't even have to pull the clutch lever back all the way. Just enough to disengage the clutch. Does not matter if I use the foot or hand brake.

Could be their pressing the start button before fully pressing firmly on the foot brake or brake lever....I know if i step on the brake pedal as i simultaneously press on the start button, It won't start, I then have to come off the start button and press it again..[While still on the brake pedal] :Shrug:
 
Not understanding the not starting in gear issue some are having. My trike starts in gear w/o issue all the time. I don't even have to pull the clutch lever back all the way. Just enough to disengage the clutch. Does not matter if I use the foot or hand brake.

Mine worked like that when I first got it, then it was intermittent and finally quit altogether.

I took it to the shop a couple weeks ago to have my handlebars put on and the front fender light fixed. I also put on the order to check out why it wasn't starting in gear.

When I went to pick it up a week later I was told that trikes are not supposed to start in gear it is a safety issue. the service guy stated that he had talked to the service and sales managers and they even tried it on a new in stock 2017. I was so irritated when I left I was going to another dealer. But since it is a 1.5 hour ride home I thought of something better.

I called the HD home office and spoke with customer service (good people) the lady on the phone put me on hold and went to talk with a tech and verified that yes you should be able to start your trike in gear with the clutch in and either front or rear brake activated. My question was how do I convince my dealer of this.

They provided me with a reference number and told me to call the dealer and have them contact HD customer service with the reference number.

So now they are on notice that there is a path that this customer will take if I don't get what I expect.

We'll see tomorrow how well that works.

Still may end up going to another dealer for future service.

Bob
 
Mine worked like that when I first got it, then it was intermittent and finally quit altogether.

I took it to the shop a couple weeks ago to have my handlebars put on and the front fender light fixed. I also put on the order to check out why it wasn't starting in gear.

When I went to pick it up a week later I was told that trikes are not supposed to start in gear it is a safety issue. the service guy stated that he had talked to the service and sales managers and they even tried it on a new in stock 2017. I was so irritated when I left I was going to another dealer. But since it is a 1.5 hour ride home I thought of something better.

I called the HD home office and spoke with customer service (good people) the lady on the phone put me on hold and went to talk with a tech and verified that yes you should be able to start your trike in gear with the clutch in and either front or rear brake activated. My question was how do I convince my dealer of this.

They provided me with a reference number and told me to call the dealer and have them contact HD customer service with the reference number.

So now they are on notice that there is a path that this customer will take if I don't get what I expect.

We'll see tomorrow how well that works.

Still may end up going to another dealer for future service.

Bob

Keep us informed Bob....This starting/not-starting is getting interesting, I'm starting to wonder if its not just one thing but a combination of component's [part's] thats causing the problem for so many..
 
Mine worked like that when I first got it, then it was intermittent and finally quit altogether.

I took it to the shop a couple weeks ago to have my handlebars put on and the front fender light fixed. I also put on the order to check out why it wasn't starting in gear.

When I went to pick it up a week later I was told that trikes are not supposed to start in gear it is a safety issue. the service guy stated that he had talked to the service and sales managers and they even tried it on a new in stock 2017. I was so irritated when I left I was going to another dealer. But since it is a 1.5 hour ride home I thought of something better.

I called the HD home office and spoke with customer service (good people) the lady on the phone put me on hold and went to talk with a tech and verified that yes you should be able to start your trike in gear with the clutch in and either front or rear brake activated. My question was how do I convince my dealer of this.

They provided me with a reference number and told me to call the dealer and have them contact HD customer service with the reference number.

So now they are on notice that there is a path that this customer will take if I don't get what I expect.

We'll see tomorrow how well that works.

Still may end up going to another dealer for future service.

Bob

Dealer is full of crap. The issue is simply that the tech does not know what to look for. My '17 starts in gear w/o issue.
 
Latest update

Took the trike in Friday morning and was there at 9AM when the door opened.

The security light was coming on due to a damaged wiring harness going to the right side cooling fan which was not coming on when it should have been.

They fixed that as well as the damaged wire I had already found going to the left Auxiliary/passing light.

Now for the not so good part the main reason It was going in was for not starting while in gear.

They had the bike for 6 hours when they called me and informed me that it was the left switch pack that was the problem and they did not have one in stock and they were on backorder from HD as there is a problem with these parts so it will take a while to get the part. I WAS LIVID. Once I got done chewing on the guy that called me I asked for the service manager, once he got on I as calmly as I could I explained to them that my trike was in their shop for 1 1/2 weeks the last time I wanted this problem fixed and they insisted that it shouldn't start in gear and now after I had to call HD customer service to convince them that it should I was again making the 90 mile trip home without it being fixed while my 20 year old daughter is cringing in her seat as she is driving me back to the shop.

She dropped me off and did not want to go in so she went back to her dorm.

Once inside I met the service manager he said he would have one of his guys come pick my bike up and haul it to the shop when the part came in and I explained that my bike will not come back in the shop for the same problem a 3rd time. He then offered to send his shop foreman to my house when the part came in to install it and then offered a $100 dollar gift card for all the trouble.

I went with that now we will see when the part comes in whether it actually gets fixed.

I made him well aware that I usually do most of my own service but that there are some things I just will not touch and I also need a place to get warranty work done.

I also made him aware that there are 3 other fully capable shops actually closer to my house than their and the only reason I was going there is their sales and parts people have treated me better than the other shops but bad service will drive me to another.

The Saga continues.

Bob
 
These parts are JUNK IMO

Mine went SOUTH on my 15 along with the Thottle by wire, another klunker part from our friends at Delphi South of the border in MEXICO

TOO bad Trump was not in charge then, maybe Delphi would ah could ah stayed here and NOT bought back from bankruptcy by GM with our dollars , This is just my BAD opinion of JUNK parts:cool:
 
And if it weren't Delphi, it would be someone else making them for Harley that is located other than USA.

Yup, but Delphi is the leader in parts for a lot of car and bike parts, that said Amerika should nothave to keep bailing out companies that off shore the parts and jobs? Hd has done this to keep the bean counters happy and raise the price of products The Amerikan dream gone South again I guess
 
Yup, but Delphi is the leader in parts for a lot of car and bike parts, that said Amerika should nothave to keep bailing out companies that off shore the parts and jobs? Hd has done this to keep the bean counters happy and raise the price of products The Amerikan dream gone South again I guess

Sounds like maybe you should move ............... The hermit kingdom comes to mind. Unless I'm mistaken, a rather large majority of the products we use in our daily lives either comes from or are made up in part of foreign content. Want to know why ? Because the frik'n unions in this country have priced themselves out of the labor market. There are 385 + drivers and support staff on the street because the drivers at my former employer's S CA facility voted to join the teamsters. We were paid above scale and had better h&w benefits. But no, the slackers wanted the perceived protection they thought the union would give them from being written up for damaging company equipment. They got protection all right. It's called no job. The company simply did away with the dedicated corporate fleet. I watched 6 weeks of annual paid leave and other perks go down the tubes because a group of 35 drivers and mechanics drank the kool aid served up by the teamsters recruiters.
 
Sounds like maybe you should move ............... The hermit kingdom comes to mind. Unless I'm mistaken, a rather large majority of the products we use in our daily lives either comes from or are made up in part of foreign content. Want to know why ? Because the frik'n unions in this country have priced themselves out of the labor market. There are 385 + drivers and support staff on the street because the drivers at my former employer's S CA facility voted to join the teamsters. We were paid above scale and had better h&w benefits. But no, the slackers wanted the perceived protection they thought the union would give them from being written up for damaging company equipment. They got protection all right. It's called no job. The company simply did away with the dedicated corporate fleet. I watched 6 weeks of annual paid leave and other perks go down the tubes because a group of 35 drivers and mechanics drank the kool aid served up by the teamsters recruiters.

I agree...

If Walmart had an aisle with just American made products no one would shop that aisle

Because the next aisle has cheaper imports...

To Quote Pogo......We have met the enemy and he is ...Us......
 
I agree...

If Walmart had an aisle with just American made products no one would shop that aisle

Because the next aisle has cheaper imports...

To Quote Pogo......We have met the enemy and he is ...Us......

:laugh: No one would shop that aisle because the products on it would be outrageously priced. :clapping:
 
Sounds like maybe you should move ............... The hermit kingdom comes to mind. Unless I'm mistaken, a rather large majority of the products we use in our daily lives either comes from or are made up in part of foreign content. Want to know why ? Because the frik'n unions in this country have priced themselves out of the labor market. There are 385 + drivers and support staff on the street because the drivers at my former employer's S CA facility voted to join the teamsters. We were paid above scale and had better h&w benefits. But no, the slackers wanted the perceived protection they thought the union would give them from being written up for damaging company equipment. They got protection all right. It's called no job. The company simply did away with the dedicated corporate fleet. I watched 6 weeks of annual paid leave and other perks go down the tubes because a group of 35 drivers and mechanics drank the kool aid served up by the teamsters recruiters.

I shoulda said I believe the UNIONS should have made concessions to keep the jobs here

I found my job on the south side of a union problem in 97

Left a bad taste in my mouth

Sears and Wally World fight like heck to keep them out

Sears fought us for 2 years we won but I lost They froze my wages NOT a happy camper

I wish the fighting in this country would end and the folks could get GOOD paying jobs and security again Dont wanna start a peein contest, sorry ifn I did
 
Wow! Just read thru the entire thread.

To the OP, sounds like they ended up taking care of you. It almost assuredly is the control pack.

I have had mine replaced several times, on several bikes.

Too bad you had to do their job for them...educating them on how to fix something, that they then charge you $85+ an hour for, because they are "trained techs".

On the other subject...

We make almost everything we sell...right here in the USA, with USA born employees. We have no unions, we pay our folks better than most other similar jobs in the area, and have a great work environment. We use USA made fasteners, and other components. Our prices are reasonable, and we make a profit.

That said, there are two significant additional pieces of information-

1. If we were in almost any other State, the wages are higher than Mississippi, and we would not be able to sell for our current prices. Mississippi has just as skilled folks, but the COL and wages are lower here.

2. We have patents on quite a few of our products that we've developed. That has NOT stopped companies in China from copying some of them...even to the point that they use pictures of our Customers bikes, with our parts on them, to sell their illegal copies on ebay and Amazon.

The prices they sell for are, many times, less than our raw costs to make the product. Their quality sucks, but we still see folks purchasing these knock-offs, at a fraction of the price that we sell the real deal for.

If they tightened up their quality, I am sure they could sell just as good of a product for half of what we can sell it for. The difference is they have no R&D cost (since they stole it from us) and they must pay their folks close to nothing for their labor.

Kevin
 
:) I just don't wanna see Jack have a coronary over this. It is what it is. Do the copy cat sellers suck ? Big time. Would I like to see more jobs come back from over seas ? You bet ! In fact, that is happening as wages rise across the pond. The unfortunate fact of life is we as a country have both priced ourselves out of a lot of markets and in the ones we haven't, we can't seem to find enough workers. Now if we could just do something with the entitlement program that makes sitting on ones ass more profitable than doing an honest days work ..........:D
 
To me Kevin touched on the biggest part of the problem by saying "you had to educate them".

Faulty parts are one issue, but having a tech not know how to properly trouble shoot an issue from beginning to end is a made in America problem.

"You can't start these in gear by design". Really? If a tech tried to get me out the door by assuming I was stupid enough to believe everything he told me, there would be NO question on if I might go to a different dealer next time. None AT ALL.
 
Tri Glides will Start in Gear!!!!!! Finally !!!!

After arm wrestling with the dealership on whether a Tri Glide should start in gear or not (read previous posts in this thread for details).

And waiting on a Left side switch pack for 6+ weeks they sent a tech 90 miles down to my house to fix it.

Took all of 20 minutes to install and lo and behold my Tri Glide will start while in gear with the clutch pulled and either front or rear brake activated.

He said it is the clutch switch that is the problem and HD won't admit it but they are having a lot of problems with them.

Indiana is in a cold and rainy cycle for now so no riding but if I hang around a few days that will probably change.

Bob
 
I'm having the same problem. Switch pack has been ordered for about six weeks. They called today saying it had come in. Will take it in in the next few days.

I had to argue with them too. I told them to call moco. I don't know if they did but a little while later they told me they had ordered the switch pack.

ETA: I don't have problem with the security light. Just not starting in gear.
 
At some point this past week, discovered I can no longer start the trike in gear. I prefer to park with it in first. Rather than hunt for neutral, I've always pulled in the clutch lever and stepped on the foot brake. Won't even start if I use the handbrake instead. Such is life. No biggie. Dealer said they'd order a new switch pack.
 
At some point this past week, discovered I can no longer start the trike in gear. I prefer to park with it in first. Rather than hunt for neutral, I've always pulled in the clutch lever and stepped on the foot brake. Won't even start if I use the handbrake instead. Such is life. No biggie. Dealer said they'd order a new switch pack.

So far no problems with mine starting in gear....I always park in gear and never use the park brake...But if i don't step on the foot brake ''Hard'' and make sure the cluch lever is right up agonist the grip [I have an adjustable lever] it won't start...And if i hit the starter first or simultaneous hit it' it won't start.. So the procedure is.. Hard in the lever' Hard on the foot brake....Then hit hit the starter..All these new multi-function electronic switches are a pain in the ass...:mad:
 

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