VTX 1800 - take front caliper off rear brake circuit? Rear Brake job. Quickstop shoes

[CrystalPistol]

I am aware that there is a plug, and it is the level for when the rearend is right side up.

I read else where that when the rear is 'flipped' or inverted, you cant use that anymore because it is too high. It was mentioned that the rearend needed to be drained, then filled with a specific volume, with that volume usually available from the manufacturer.

Oh yeah, I forgot some kits have to flip it due to output shaft rotation, sorry. Guess I was maybe thinking GL1500s & Valkyries, but yeah,yours is a VTX (but you knew that). I know it works to correct the rotation (so as to not have 5 speed reverse and no forward gears), but I do wonder how well the pinion shaft bearings get lubed. I guess that a drain & specific volume refill is the only way to "know" then. Maybe after doing a refill that you know is right, be a good time to make yourself a gage to "stick the level" via fill plug hole, something you can stick in and see a lube level on?

 

[Volkemon]

Still a steel diffy cover on it....might be a good thing to keep.

I may have to flush it, find/determine the correct amount, then braze a bung at the right level on the steel cover. :Shrug:

Looking at the goldwing manual, it looks as if the axle is right side up. Looking at the picture, using the fill plug as a level would be too high. I still didnt look at mine, as i was racing the rain to get pics of my new trike cover.

Look on the left side of pumpkin (cast center section), see a plug with a square drive hole, takes 3/8" ratchet, back it out and if lubricant comes out, it's full. If none comes out, stick a little finger in or coat hanger and see if level is at bottom of fill hole.

Manual for GW says you should refill 1/4-9/16 below the fill plug. Also states 3.3 pints. If I hadn't read that, I would have agreed with you. That is the 'norm'. Perhaps they have it rotated the pinion up a bit from 'stock', and if you fill to edge it is overfull?

I need a manual for my kit. Gonna call MT tomorrow....heck, check the website and see if they are open first :Santa: .. and see about getting one.

Posting pics of my new cover over on my other thread - https://www.triketalk.com/forum/threads/55731-2006-Motortrike-vtx1800-might-be-my-next-ride

 

[Jack Klarich]

You can drill a hole in the cover and use a soft rubber push in plug like Chrysler used for years

Like this one

 

[Volkemon]

But...But... thats so simple and easy! No fire!

Thanks. That is a VERY practical solution. Just make sure I de-burr the hole well. I seem to remember they went in a stamped hole with a lip, but thats a memory from way back...

Got the other shoes today, Wagner 'Quickstop' Z474R. I sanded the lining lightly with the same 180 paper for the pic.



The other shoes had a 'big specks' in the lining - looked like there were spatters of paint. This one appears to be a much finer silvery speckle.

The ten digit number, and the WE-XXX-XX number was different too. MAYBE one is a date code, one a lining code? I wish... Maybe message Wagner marketing with a nice note..

Existing numbers -

WE-169-EE and 6610713715

New shoes -

WE-157-EE and 6611002821

:Shrug: Who knows. Back in the box for now.

 

[CrystalPistol]

Looking at the goldwing manual, it looks as if the axle is right side up. Looking at the picture, using the fill plug as a level would be too high. I still didnt look at mine, as i was racing the rain to get pics of my new trike cover.

If the axle is right side up with a low pinion, the fill plug is correct. If the axle is up side down or flipped, it's probably off somewhat.

Manual for GW says you should refill 1/4-9/16 below the fill plug. Also states 3.3 pints.

What you quoted of mine was what I wrote before I realized yours was maybe flipped, so ignor what I wrote then. That fill was right for an axle that was right side up …

… but the VTX 1800 bike has the driveshaft & pinion to the left of ring gear in the final drive so they have to flip it to keep the trike going forwards as cars and pick ups (that I've seen up close) have the pinion gear on the right side of the ring gear. GoldWing bikes also have the drive shaft & pinion to the right side of ring gear, so no flipping is needed with a GoldWing.

You mention "goldwing manual" and then again "Manual for GW", hope it's not a Honda book because they wouldn't write about an up side down Ford 7.5" rear in a trike. The picture in a Goldwing book of Motor Trike origin would show a rear in right side up attitude. Your trike is a VTX, a right side up car rear end will have you going 5 speeds backwards unless there is a reversing box or "gear" box between the former bike's output shaft and the rear end, and seems I recall mention of some trikes having a box in place.

Clearly, you either have a "reversing box" or you have a flipped rear axle, I don't know which.

I have Motor Trike manual, but it's for a Gold Wing so it's of no help with a VTX based trike. Here is a ChampionSideCars manual though, but on a VTX1800, might help to show how they did it?http://championsidecars.com/wp-content/uploads/2016/08/Honda-VTX-1800-Instl-Manual_Rev5.pdf

As to drains in stamped steel pans, covers. I weld a 1/2-20 nut to a steel with smaller bolts to secure inside, drill holes in cover to match and use a 1/2-20 drain bolt. This one is in a transmission pan.

 

[Volkemon]

You mention "goldwing manual" and then again "Manual for GW", hope it's not a Honda book because they wouldn't write about an up side down Ford 7.5" rear in a trike. The picture in a Goldwing book of Motor Trike origin would show a rear in right side up attitude.

I have Motor Trike manual, but it's for a Gold Wing so it's of no help with a VTX based trike.

As to drains in stamped steel pans, covers. I weld a 1/2-20 nut to a steel with smaller bolts to secure inside, drill holes in cover to match and use a 1/2-20 drain bolt. This one is in a transmission pan.

The manual I was referring to is for a goldwing with a motortrike conversion. I wasnt thinking clearly either, and now realize you dont have a motortrike conversion. As Gilda said... 'Never Mind!' :laugh:

The Mototrtrike goldwing manual IS very helpful to me, even with a VTX. Evidently most of the suspension setup is the same.

I usually just get a 1/4 or 3/8 NPT bung and braze it on. then drill hole. But I really like Jacks KISS solution with the rubber plug. I tend to overthink things...

THANKS for the other link! Might have some wisdom for me. :clapping:

 

[Jack Klarich]

Randy, in the rust belt we serviced lots of rear grease seals on interlocking axles. The first order for me was to always try to remove the filler plug. As you can already guess this sometimes did not go well. If I had one ( and I had Many) that did not come out I would drill the cover and use the Mopar rubber plug. It worked like a charm. Doorman part number 090-062

 

[CrystalPistol]

Randy, in the rust belt we serviced lots of rear grease seals on interlocking axles. The first order for me was to always try to remove the filler plug. As you can already guess this sometimes did not go well. If I had one ( and I had Many) that did not come out I would drill the cover and use the Mopar rubber plug. It worked like a charm. Doorman part number 090-062

I can see it being great for heavy bodied rear end lube … but not hot transmission fluid! Thank you Sir (for idea & pt #)!

I bet it makes a mess when the drill breaks through?:laugh:​

 

[Volkemon]

Maybe, but mess for me was forever defined while working at a cheapa** truck shop. Owner was too cheap to get a 20 gal roll around oil pan, 5 gal buckets were fine. For him. He didnt have do the job.

1 1/2 NPT drain plug, hot oil... disaster was switching buckets. Often trucks had 10+ gallon capacity. We went through bags of speedy dry. DO NOT miss that place.

**

Unless I get a better answer after the 6th when Motortrike opens, Planning on determining the level by having the outer seal lips just above the oil level when level.

'Slosh' when cornering should be fine for supplying the bearings, and the ring will hopefully fling enough oil up on the pinion bearing. I will see if it is amenable to adding a dipper/slinger on the ring gear bolt to increase the circulation cheap and easy. So lightly loaded, should not be a concern.

 

[Jack Klarich]

Maybe, but mess for me was forever defined while working at a cheapa** truck shop. Owner was too cheap to get a 20 gal roll around oil pan, 5 gal buckets were fine. For him. He didnt have do the job.

1 1/2 NPT drain plug, hot oil... disaster was switching buckets. Often trucks had 10+ gallon capacity. We went through bags of speedy dry. DO NOT miss that place.

**

Unless I get a better answer after the 6th when Motortrike opens, Planning on determining the level by having the outer seal lips just above the oil level when level.

'Slosh' when cornering should be fine for supplying the bearings, and the ring will hopefully fling enough oil up on the pinion bearing. I will see if it is amenable to adding a dipper/slinger on the ring gear bolt to increase the circulation cheap and easy. So lightly loaded, should not be a concern.

When ever I serviced a rear end like this I would park it on a side slope equal times on both sides, that way the lube could run down the axle tube and lube the bearings

 

[Volkemon]

UPDATE!

I finally got around to pulling the seat off and indeed, the brake PCV (Proportional Control Valve) under the seat has been removed, and an adapter used to transition from a solid to a flexible stainless braided line.

When this was done, the brake line was bent a bit to make the transition, and caused the wire harness to be pushed closer to the rear exhaust port. :xzqxz:Burned the outer cover (electrical tape? ) off, but a CLOSE inspection shows no wire damage. Whew!

Also, taking the axle apart to have it sent out of state for repair, I established the oil level was much lower than the original fill plug. The fluid level is very clear to see on the inside of the back cover, so I am going to drill a hole and use the rubber plug Jack suggested. THANKS again for that idea!