Trike rear brake upgrade

[onevw]

My Hannagen gl1500 trike rear brake performance is not as good as I expected it should be. So I thought I would try to improve the rear brake performance by replacing the rotor and pads with performance style components. These are Rotors from R1 (drilled and slotted) and Pads from Hawk (HPS series). The drilling and slots will not give better braking performance on the street but the rotors are made from 3500 series casting whitch my give better friction performance for the HPS hawk pads. We will see as soon as I get it back on the road.

 

[rodeo1]

what the heck kinda suspention is hannagan using that includes old school tie rod ends ???

 

[onevw]

They use 1984-1987 Honda CRX front hub assembly. Mounded in a custom trailing arm suspension setup with a 1987 ford Thunderbird final drive with 2.73 gearing. The drive axles are custom made ford on one end and Honda CRX on the other. The final drive is mounted so the stock drive shaft is in line with the stock Honda drive shaft and they keep the stock swing arm in place but the swing arm does not move because the final drive is fixed the frame.<br />
<br />
RICK<br />
If anybody is interested i can post some pics of this setup.

 

[Teal]

sound like a very heavy suspension,,
re; the rotors,,, dont forget -- holes and slots ,,,, less contact area,, i would not use both,, in fact im surprised you need them

 

[onevw]

You are right I do not need them at all I just did it for fun and the looks. But After looking hard at this brake system I think I may have air in the system so I will remove the possible air and see if the peddle feels better. The hauk HPS pads are suppose to create up to 40% better friction.
RICK

P.S. I think this kit adds about 250 lb

 

[Gorilla]

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<img src="images/misc/quote_icon.png" alt="Quote" /> Originally Posted by <strong>onevw</strong>
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<div class="message">My Hannagen gl1500 trike rear brake performance is not as good as I expected it should be. So I thought I would try to improve the rear brake performance by replacing the rotor and pads with performance style components. These are Rotors from R1 (drilled and slotted) and Pads from Hawk (HPS series). The drilling and slots will not give better braking performance on the street but the rotors are made from 3500 series casting whitch my give better friction performance for the HPS hawk pads. We will see as soon as I get it back on the road.<br />
<br />
<img src="http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v141/onevw/bike/DSC_1785.jpg" border="0" alt="" /></div>

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</div>Let us know how this works out. Good Luck

 

[sonney]

Thanks for the write up if you could post more pictures it would be interesting.


Sonney
2010 Hannigan

 

[rodeo1]

sounds complicated. my roadsmith is a bunch simpler than all that.

 

[onevw]

Not sure about who is more complicated

HANNIGAN

 

[flyer91]

Onevw,<br /><br />
I too am interested in your mods.<br /><br />
Please do keep us up to date on it.<br /><br />
<br /><br />
P.S. The totally insignficant loss of any rotor surface that the addition of the slots make, will more than be made up for in wet weather by providing an additional means to shed water and keep the <span class="highlight">brake</span> pads from hydroplaning on the surface of the wet rotors.<br /><br />
So .......... good work! And bravo to you for doing it! <img src="images/smilies/smile.gif" border="0" alt="" title="Smile" class="inlineimg" /><br /><br />
<br /><br />
Best regards,<br /><br />
<br /><br />
Flyer91 ........ another Hannigan owner, that's glad to have such a competent, 100% alignable (via those "silly" ball ends) and super simple suspension ........ that can be serviced with parts from any auto parts store. <img src="images/smilies/wink.gif" border="0" alt="" title="Wink" class="inlineimg" />

 

[rodeo1]

Not sure about who is more complicated

HANNIGAN

YEAH, I LOOKED AT HANNIGAN when i bought the roadsmith, didn't like the looks of the tie rod ends then either, too many un nessesary adjustments to worry about, nothing against the hannigan kit. i have a valkyrie, i rode a goldwing hannigan kit. it swayed terribly in corners, scared the daylights out of my wife, again maybe it wasn't adjusted correctly, but the roadsmith went in easy and handles like a dream. with independant rear it still out handles the CSC solid axle i had on my last goldwing.:Shrug:

 

[Cycleguy]

Well, if you want simple, light, and no unnecessary adjustments.

A DFT. Outside of the lightly loaded swaybar linkage, here are no suspension attachments that are anything except simple roller bearing pivots, and those use very beefy stuff with grease fittings. No adjustments other than swaybar linkage and shock preload. The lightest conversion made, about 185 pounds added, net. The stock Honda driveshaft is retained in the stock location, and there are no tricky attachments between it and the trike. The 5 Honda rear wheel studs bolt onto the input shaft to the differential. Pretty strong.

Of course you pay more for what you don't get.

 

[flyer91]

Of course you pay more for what you don't get.

Like a set of dual brakes for the rear?
The GL1800 already doesn't stop all that well.
When you add the weight of a trike kit, I want two rotors, two calipers and all the braking I can get.

 

[onevw]

OK We just got back from a day trip to Denver on the trike. The brakes are now performing much better. The brake stopping power provided by the new rotors and pads is getting beter all the time now I can easily bring the loaded trike to proper stop from hwy speeds with average peddle pressure and I do not need to add any front braking to do so. I am happy with this upgrade and can recommend these to anyone.

RICK