trailer tie-down question

brianl

300+ Posts
May 16, 2013
325
171
Leominster, MA
Name
Brian
I think I may have finally found a portable ramp that will allow me to put my 1997 wing onto my landscape trailer without bottoming out. See :http://www.discountramps.com/big-boy-trike-ramp/p/MF3-AMR/ My question is whether I should tie down the handle bars while transporting it. I plan on mounting a front wheel chock and tieing the tire to that. I also will tie off the front "crash bars" as well as the hooks on the trailer receiver of the Roadsmith kit. I've read where people have put too much pressure on the front shocks tieing it down and ruined them. With the bike already secured, I don't see where the bouncing up and down on the trailer is any different than riding the bike normally. Any suggestions would be appreciated. (I think the whole idea may be just a pipe dream as it looks as though I'll never be able to open the doors on my shed before next winter with all the snow in front of them!)
 
I think I may have finally found a portable ramp that will allow me to put my 1997 wing onto my landscape trailer without bottoming out. See :http://www.discountramps.com/big-boy-trike-ramp/p/MF3-AMR/ My question is whether I should tie down the handle bars while transporting it. I plan on mounting a front wheel chock and tieing the tire to that. I also will tie off the front "crash bars" as well as the hooks on the trailer receiver of the Roadsmith kit. I've read where people have put too much pressure on the front shocks tieing it down and ruined them. With the bike already secured, I don't see where the bouncing up and down on the trailer is any different than riding the bike normally. Any suggestions would be appreciated. (I think the whole idea may be just a pipe dream as it looks as though I'll never be able to open the doors on my shed before next winter with all the snow in front of them!)

I cant tell you how to tie down your wing, But I will tell you DON'T use a Case protector ;
AKA Crash bars, As a tie down point there mostly cosmetic and won't hold....
 
I cant tell you how to tie down your wing, But I will tell you DON'T use a Case protector ;
AKA Crash bars, As a tie down point there mostly cosmetic and won't hold....

I've never transported the bike before which is why I'm asking. Aren't the crash bars bolted to the frame?
 
When I put my bike or trike on my trailer it drags but I get around it by loading off a high driveway, it straightens the ramp and no more drag.
 
The correct way to secure the front is
1. Wheel chock, as you mentioned
2. Soft ties around the lower triple tree plate, 1 each side
3. Rachet straps hooked to the soft ties and anchored to the trailer floor (D-rings or eye bolts, pulling forward, slightly outward. Then compress the forks no more than a couple inches.
The rear can be snugged down to the sides w/ratchet straps around a trailer hitch or through and around the wheels/tires.
Never use handle bars nor the tip over bars.
Tranny in neutral, secure the front first which insures front wheel is pulled into the chock.
 
I hauled my GL 1800 from North Dakota to Arizona a year ago. I put a wheel chock on my trailer that goes over center when the front wheel goes into it and that holds the front wheel in quite well. I used ratchet straps hooked to the engine crash bars off to D-rings in the front corners just to secure it at the front without putting a lot of pressure on the front shocks and then put ratchet straps from the safety chain loops on the trailer hitch to D-rings in the rear corners of the trailer. I've had no problems trailering that way. I'm attaching a picture of the trailer with the wheel chock in it.
 

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I use a 4x4 underneath the front of the trike. I use the tripe trees to connect the tie downs. The front will drop down until it hits the 4x4. This will keep the forks from bottoming. What happens is when compressed to where the forks are bottomed. The retainer will still move some by the bouncing, this will, in time, cause the seals to leak.The triple tree is the best and safest way I know of. Don't use the bars.<br />
short trailers can be picky with clearance when loading. Just carry or use the 4x4 under the ramp at the bottom. The trike will pull up it with little effort.
 
I've towed 2 wheelers and 3 wheelers all over this country in open and closed trailers and always used the crash bars and never had an issue yet. I can't think of a better place to tie to.
 
I've towed 2 wheelers and 3 wheelers all over this country in open and closed trailers and always used the crash bars and never had an issue yet. I can't think of a better place to tie to.


Same here never a problem on the crash bar and nylon wraps with tie downs on the rear. I also tie the front wheel and tire to the chock so nothing goes anywhere.....
 

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Same here never a problem on the crash bar and nylon wraps with tie downs on the rear. I also tie the front wheel and tire to the chock so nothing goes anywhere.....
That looks like an Aluma TK1. Is it? Can you load your trike on it without bottoming out or shimming the ramp? My Roadsmith has an 80" wheelbase and is 113" total. (I haven't actually measured it but that's what their website says) I think that's about the longest kit made. The wheels are actually behind the passenger seat. Makes for a comfortable ride but can't load it on my 4' ramp without causing damage. That's why I'm looking at the portable ramp. It looks like you don't bother tieing down the handlebars. Is that true?
 
That looks like an Aluma TK1. Is it? Can you load your trike on it without bottoming out or shimming the ramp? My Roadsmith has an 80" wheelbase and is 113" total. (I haven't actually measured it but that's what their website says) I think that's about the longest kit made. The wheels are actually behind the passenger seat. Makes for a comfortable ride but can't load it on my 4' ramp without causing damage. That's why I'm looking at the portable ramp. It looks like you don't bother tieing down the handlebars. Is that true?

That is the TK1, just drive it on as it has a small dovetail area to lessen the angle. Not even close to bottoming on the glass body.... if there is a chance of that crank the nose up a little to change the angle, I just don't try to lift the truck much. But that's only occurred once....still no problem. That is my Roadsmith on the trailer, I only tie down the front wheel in the chock, from the crash bars to the forward tie down loops and then each rear tire as I show with the nylon 18" straps thru and around the wheel and tire. Never tie to the forks or the bars..... the way I tie it never moves although if it pouring the straps may need and extra crank due to stretch.... the straps I use are Retractable Automatic :http://www.homedepot.com/p/Erickson...Downs-2-Pack-34415/202563733?N=5yc1vZc2dnZ92e and they work great, takes me longer to tie wrap the front tire than all (4) of the tie downs..... 10 - 15 minute tops from driving it on the trailer / tieing it down and ready to depart....
 

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