Torque specs

[ISP-FL]

Getting ready to do 3 hole change this week. Last service I just did the engine oil/filter. Does anyone have the torque numbers for the plugs and derby cover handy? I assume they are the same for all 103 motors?

 

[1dn5up]

Getting ready to do 3 hole change this week. Last service I just did the engine oil/filter. Does anyone have the torque numbers for the plugs and derby cover handy? I assume they are the same for all 103 motors?

Primary cover= 144-156 in lbs or 16.3-17.6 Nm Clutch cover= 84-108 in lbs or 9.5-12.2 Nm

Primary drain plug= 14-21 ft lbs or 19-28.5 Nm

Engine oil drain plug= 14-21 ft lbs or 19-28.5 Nm Same for trans drain plug

Oil and trans plug= has o-ring, just snug tight,

 

[Papa Zook]

Make sure you note inch lbs vs foot lbs when setting your torque wrench.

 

[30glock]

For what it's worth, In over 35yrs I have never used a torque wrench when changing oils, snug Is all you need. I have seen nightmare scenarios where some have used the torque wrenches Incorrectly with disastrous results.

 

[ISP-FL]

For what it's worth, In over 35yrs I have never used a torque wrench when changing oils, snug Is all you need. I have seen nightmare scenarios where some have used the torque wrenches Incorrectly with disastrous results.

I hear ya, when I changed the engine oil the last time I didn't pull out the torque wrench for the drain plug. Doing all three holes I figured I would want it for the derby cover this time. And that is a good reminder about using it incorrectly. It usually takes me a few minutes of playing around with it again to figure it out or stopping at my buddies garage and getting a quick lesson on setting the thing. Just don't use it enough.

 

[1dn5up]

I also put a dab of never seize on the derby screws.

Joe, I see your avitar buddy has future plans :clapping:

 

[ISP-FL]

I also put a dab of never seize on the derby screws.

Joe, I see your avitar buddy has future plans :clapping:

With 13 of them little grandkids running around it was hard to pick which photo to use. They all seem to like grandpa's new tricycle.

Probably should have used some never seize. What I did notice was that the derby cover bolts are not of the highest quality. I will investigate replacing those with some new #27's. Also, my torque wrench only goes down to 10 ft. lbs, plus the handle is so long it was useless for using under the bike. Guess if I am going to use one I will have to get a different smaller one.

I took my time and from start to clean up it was about 90 minutes. Since I used Syn-3 in all three holes I only saved about $230.00 as compared to taking it to the dealer. But would the dealer carefully clean off each plug magnet, or clean the inside of the derby cover? I just feel better about me doing these fluid changes, I know exactly what is coming out and what is going in.

 

[hddocfl]

Getting ready to do my 1000 service already anti seized the plugs and derby cover bolts. My trans is loud to me and is getting some Redline Shockproof in the trans , Redline 20-60 in the oil and Formula + in the primary. Doc

 

[Beauregard]

For what it's worth, In over 35yrs I have never used a torque wrench when changing oils, snug Is all you need. I have seen nightmare scenarios where some have used the torque wrenches Incorrectly with disastrous results.

And I have seen disastrous results not using a torque wrench.

I get the "snug" thing, and for those of us who have turned wrenches all our lives, it's possible to get close to spec by feel.

But that's certainly not everyone. The resulting failures from under or over tightening can be costly. And on assemblies such as the derby cover with multiple fasteners, the torque setting and sequence give a uniform clamp that will prevent warping and leaks. Anyone who has tried to remove a derby cover or drain plug that was over tightened can attest to how much extra work this causes.

We preach that if you're going to do your own work, you need a service manual. In that service manual are torque specs for specific fasteners. These specs come from the engineers who designed and built the bikes. They want you to use a torque wrench where specified.

That being said, if you're going to work on your vehicles, you need proper tools. You will have a difficult time with just one torque wrench. You should have a minimum of three; one in 1/4, 3/8 and 1/2 in drives. They all have different torque ranges. If you try to use a 1/2 drive torque wrench for 144 in/lbs (12 ft. lbs) you will not be accurate. Torque wrenches are a good investment for anyone who turns their on tools. You'll save enough by doing your on work to easily afford the right tools.

 

[rhino 2]

Back in my Caveman days....

I would tighten till it strips, And then back off a 1/4 turn..:laugh:

 

[1dn5up]

And don't forget to crank up the oil filter :gah:

 

[rhino 2]

And don't forget to crank up the oil filter :gah:

Yep, Many a time i had to run a screwdriver though the filter and use the screwdriver as a ''T'' handle...:xzqxz:

 

[ISP-FL]

Drain plugs with the O rings I don't really worry about getting too tight. Getting the exact torque on the derby cover will make me feel better though so at least one more smaller torque wrench is in my future.

Doc, I know everyone has their preference on what fluids/oils to use. Since I had a dealer do my 1,000 mile service with "all synthetics" I asked them what they used, thinking I would stick with the same in all three holes since my bike shifts good and sounds good at 9,000 miles. They said they always use Harley Syn-3 in all three holes. For me it just seems easier.

 

[hddocfl]

Drain plugs with the O rings I don't really worry about getting too tight. Getting the exact torque on the derby cover will make me feel better though so at least one more smaller torque wrench is in my future.

Doc, I know everyone has their preference on what fluids/oils to use. Since I had a dealer do my 1,000 mile service with "all synthetics" I asked them what they used, thinking I would stick with the same in all three holes since my bike shifts good and sounds good at 9,000 miles. They said they always use Harley Syn-3 in all three holes. For me it just seems easier.

I have never ever used motor oil in my trans. With the light Syn3 I would think it would be loud. I just put the Redline in Mine this morning and have not rode it yet, My trans is loud and hope the Redline quiets it down also downshifts sucked. Up shifts could also be improved . Redline has improved every trans I have used it in. Thanks Doc

 

[ISP-FL]

I have never ever used motor oil in my trans. With the light Syn3 I would think it would be loud. I just put the Redline in Mine this morning and have not rode it yet, My trans is loud and hope the Redline quiets it down also downshifts sucked. Up shifts could also be improved . Redline has improved every trans I have used it in. Thanks Doc

I can't say my tranny is loud, but then again my Trike is the only one I ever ride so I don't really have anything to compare it to. I'm always willing to try something new. I may throw some Redline in the tranny at 20,000.

 

[hddocfl]

I can't say my tranny is loud, but then again my Trike is the only one I ever ride so I don't really have anything to compare it to. I'm always willing to try something new. I may throw some Redline in the tranny at 20,000.

I got to put 70 miles with the Redline SPH in the trans yesterday, Not a lot on the noise reduction but it shifts much better up and down so yes it helps. Doc

 

[tbear]

With 13 of them little grandkids running around it was hard to pick which photo to use. They all seem to like grandpa's new tricycle.

Probably should have used some never seize. What I did notice was that the derby cover bolts are not of the highest quality. I will investigate replacing those with some new #27's. Also, my torque wrench only goes down to 10 ft. lbs, plus the handle is so long it was useless for using under the bike. Guess if I am going to use one I will have to get a different smaller one.

I took my time and from start to clean up it was about 90 minutes. Since I used Syn-3 in all three holes I only saved about $230.00 as compared to taking it to the dealer. But would the dealer carefully clean off each plug magnet, or clean the inside of the derby cover? I just feel better about me doing these fluid changes, I know exactly what is coming out and what is going in.

just a suggestion; put some anti-seize on the spark plug threads also. I always check the gap and clean the plugs when doing the oil changes....just sayin--------:Coffee:

 

[DamnYankee]

I had picked up some road debris, in the form of a stick, that wedged itself between the drive belt and rear carrier. An oil change was required to do a belt replacement and the mechanic torqued down the derby cover "to spec". I normally do my own oil changes and broke 2 torx bits trying to remove the "to spec" derby cover screws on the next oil change. I'll stick with my calibrated elbow to get the right torque on those from now on.

 

[rhino 2]

Welcome to Trike-Talk...:wave4: And yes on the Elbow torque wrench... I have two torque wenches , And the last time i used them was rebuilding two VW engines, Back in 72/73...

Their probably out of sink now [Worthless].. But they do look good just sitting in my tool boxes .........Again :welcome:

 

[Gorilla]

Yea I like how they crank down those derby bolts also. Welcome aboard.