SQUEEKY NOISE

triwinggirl

500+ Posts
Jun 26, 2010
497
270
Las Vegas, NV
Name
TriWingGirl
I have a new problem, I was coming up the driveway the other day and the radio was down. I heard a squeaky noise on the right side it sounded like a dry bearing. so as I cant break down, I put her on jacks and compressed the suspension, so I could grease the ujoints. I was spinning the spindle and shafts and OMG my bearings on the right side are dry as a bone and making dry grinding noise. so I move to the left side the spindle bearing on that side are loose and moving significantly. :gah::gah:

I could be wrong but; I think I need new spindle/ knuckle bearing for both sides on my rear end. :xzqxz::mad::gah::xzqxz:

I will find out marrow how much this will cost me.
 
HERES WHAT I HAVE LEARNED.

there are a total of 5 bearing in the rear spindle/ knuckles. the left side has 2 62102rs bearings and a br930091k wheel bearing, the right side has 1 of each.

this must all be disassembled before buying the bearings, so pics will follow soon. from what I understand im looking at somewhere near $500 in bearing alone.

the good news is they can be purchased at my local auto parts store.

https://www.autozone.com/suspension...og-wheel-bearing-hub-assembly-frnt/698698_0_0
 
actually yes my $500 estimate is a little high. the hubs are only $60 each at autozone. but im told the 6210 bearings there are 3 of them can run over $100 each. have not found those yet though.

im told no press needed just put aluminum housing in hot water bearings will go right in.
 
6210xxx bearings should cost under $30 for a reputable brand.

I use a torch, heat gun or hair dryer to apply light heat. IMO Immersion in water can create problems of it's own.

$0.02
 
6210xxx bearings should cost under $30 for a reputable brand.

I use a torch, heat gun or hair dryer to apply light heat. IMO Immersion in water can create problems of it's own.

$0.02

When i put new bearing's in my utility trailer i put the new ones in my freezer over night, Then they slid right in.... :Shrug:
 
actually yes my $500 estimate is a little high. the hubs are only $60 each at autozone. but im told the 6210 bearings there are 3 of them can run over $100 each. have not found those yet though.

im told no press needed just put aluminum housing in hot water bearings will go right in.

If these bearings and hubs are any thing like Honda cars, it will be tough to fit them with out a press, they are interference fit
 
NWMDC
If this is your bearing you are lucky, it bolts on to the knucle
 
yes I know I went to a local bearing company this morning and gave them $198 for 3 bearings.

then I came home and found them on amazon for $30, so it took the $198 ones back.
 
I have been working on a much more important project I should be finished tonight.

disassembly is my next project, I have to know how bad the damage is before ordering parts.

have replaced a half shaft and a broken case half before on this rear end I am familiar with how to do this, it should not take me long till I have pics of the disassembly, broken and needed parts. then there will be a short wait on parts delivery.

if you look at my previous pic of the hub, just behind the shocks is another bearing for the drive shafts. I am interested in who thinks they be needin replacing too.

if so that will be a total of 2 hubs and 7 bearings.
 
just getting started

I got the left side started, im as far as getting the axle out of the hub. the hub bearing are fried. the thing that spooked me was the pinch nut was hand turning loose. have hub out next and Ill pull the axle bearing.

.KIMG0035.JPG
 
Here is what i found

HI; I got the hub off it was all that was in the housing, I expected a hub and another bearing. so I thought there would be 5 bearing including the 2 hubs. :xzqxz:

I was very confused there are just the 2 hubs total and 1 bearing in the left side main case.:clapping:

as I said there are less than 20000 miles on this bike since conversion. I check the bearing on the left side and found no issue, also no issues with the u-joints. so im thinking I can get away with just replacing the hubs. I will take it out and double check it anyway. :clapping:

while disassembling the left side I found the axle nut to be loose and did not need a wrench at all. this should not be loose. im thinking someone loosened them.:gah:

KIMG0038.JPGKIMG0037.JPGKIMG0036.JPG
 
I just got finished pulling the right side hub. there is nothing wrong with the right side hub.

I will change out both hubs to keep them the same.

going to look at the case bearing again now but do not expect to change it.

pics would be same as last so no more pics unless I pull the case bearing

it would appear the loose axle nut on the left side caused the left side hub damage only, it would seem I got lucky this time.:clapping:
 
no reason to pull it

I have checked the case bearing and it is solid as a rock. no reason to even pull that bearing.

although while on the bike the left hub has substantial movement in it I believe a lot of that movement to have been the loose nut. the removed hub does not move that much in my hand. the hub is damaged for sure, just not that bad.

there is one bad issue on the left as well, there is a washer that goes on the axle at the back side of the hub between the hub and axle. on the left that washer is gone.

like everyone else im poor and on a budget so I cant afford to replace parts that are not hurt, however I will replace, the missing washer and both hubs. thank god it was not worse.
 
I just got finished pulling the right side hub. there is nothing wrong with the right side hub.

I will change out both hubs to keep them the same.

going to look at the case bearing again now but do not expect to change it.

pics would be same as last so no more pics unless I pull the case bearing

it would appear the loose axle nut on the left side caused the left side hub damage only, it would seem I got lucky this time.:clapping:

The bearings used in those hub units have a row of ball bearings on each side and a split inner race (1 for each side).There are held in place by the axle being tightened properly so if that nut was loose that allowed the inners to separate enough to cause the looseness.
 
Code:
      there is one bad issue on the left as well, there is a washer that goes  on the axle at the back side of the hub between the hub and axle. on the  left that washer is gone.

Are you sure about placement of that washer?

Most often that washer is placed on before the nut it is a thrust washer
 
In this case yes, for 2 reasons;

I have never disassembled the right side and that's how it came apart.

upon discovering a missing washer I called DFT and they sent me a replacement.

it makes sense to have a washer there.
 
In this case yes, for 2 reasons;

I have never disassembled the right side and that's how it came apart.

upon discovering a missing washer I called DFT and they sent me a replacement.

it makes sense to have a washer there.

OK, I guess a trike axle can be that different, I have always seen the bearing butt up against the axle, the thrust washer going on before the nut

A Typical hub bearing set up would use an inner dust shield followed by the hub bearing, thrust washer and nut

I am slowly learning how the after market changes things on these trikes
 

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