Shifty Shifter

Mar 7, 2016
18
16
Georgetown, TX, US
Was on a nice little backroad a couple of days ago on my ’16 TG when the forward shift peg slipped down when I went to downshift. I couldn’t get my boot toe under the shifter to upshift. Stopped and manually pulled the shifter back up. Don’t recall seeing in the owner’s manual where this behavior is normal. Started back home using the shifter very carefully and deliberately. FYI, I removed the rear shifter when the trike was new.

Went to the local HD shop to get another shifter peg and, for good measure, a new shift shaft. The parts guy said this was normal and folks swap them out all the time. Yup, I know. This was my second shifter swap in 50K. Swapping the shift shaft (try saying that 3 times in a row) and shifter wasn’t rocket surgery and only took about 15 minutes.

The wear on the shifter is obvious on the attached picture. The shift shaft actually looked pretty good but I replaced it anyway.
 

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Was on a nice little backroad a couple of days ago on my ’16 TG when the forward shift peg slipped down when I went to downshift. I couldn’t get my boot toe under the shifter to upshift. Stopped and manually pulled the shifter back up. Don’t recall seeing in the owner’s manual where this behavior is normal. Started back home using the shifter very carefully and deliberately. FYI, I removed the rear shifter when the trike was new.

Went to the local HD shop to get another shifter peg and, for good measure, a new shift shaft. The parts guy said this was normal and folks swap them out all the time. Yup, I know. This was my second shifter swap in 50K. Swapping the shift shaft (try saying that 3 times in a row) and shifter wasn’t rocket surgery and only took about 15 minutes.

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The wear on the shifter is obvious on the attached picture. The shift shaft actually looked pretty good but I replaced it anyway.

I always make sure to apply blue locktite to the retaining bolt and torque it properly.
 
Was on a nice little backroad a couple of days ago on my ’16 TG when the forward shift peg slipped down when I went to downshift. I couldn’t get my boot toe under the shifter to upshift. Stopped and manually pulled the shifter back up. Don’t recall seeing in the owner’s manual where this behavior is normal. Started back home using the shifter very carefully and deliberately. FYI, I removed the rear shifter when the trike was new.

Went to the local HD shop to get another shifter peg and, for good measure, a new shift shaft. The parts guy said this was normal and folks swap them out all the time. Yup, I know. This was my second shifter swap in 50K. Swapping the shift shaft (try saying that 3 times in a row) and shifter wasn’t rocket surgery and only took about 15 minutes.

The wear on the shifter is obvious on the attached picture. The shift shaft actually looked pretty good but I replaced it anyway.

Last year a friend of mind had the same problem on our 3 week trip. Had to get the bike towed in to the shop. That is why I now carry a extra gear shifter and shaft. Piece of mind for $60.00.
 
I always make sure to apply blue locktite to the retaining bolt and torque it properly.

That’s how I did it when I replaced the shaft and lever on mine. In hindsight, I wonder if that’s best. I believe I could eventually develop wear on the splines even with the bolt remaining tight. So now I can’t accurately retorque with the thread locker in place. Maybe I’m overthinking this, but I would prefer to check torque at my oil change intervals.
 
This is so uncommon to happen that there's an aftermarket shifter to solve it. (other then HD making it right in the first place) Had it happen to my 05 Ultra when it was new on a trip. First time I felt a bang while shifting. Thought it was me so I slowed down and downshifted to 1st. Seemed ok. An hour later it slipped upshifting and stuck in gear. Found the lever loose and tried tightening it up. Took it right back to the dealer who tightened it up again. Three hours the trans blew just below DC and had to rent a truck to get it home. Shifter arm slipped again apparently between gears. After a rebuild it was fine for a few years actually. Then started to come loose again. You could see that the space that was ment to clamp up around the trans shaft was closed to a point no amount of tightening would have been enough. Now the dealer claimed "normal wear" and wouldn't replace it under warranty. Thats when I started looking for a replacement and found Better Lever. It's pricey for sure but solved the problem for good. If your lever starts slipping (and can get it off) use an awl or something and scrape the grooves on the trans shaft out. They get filled with metal from the shifter lever which makes it more prone to strip out again since it it can't bite down enough. The Better Lever is made out of SS and cut deeper and clamps tighter to the trans. DO your own research, but this lever works. JMO

https://www.betterlever.com/product/better-lever/
 
This is so uncommon to happen that there's an aftermarket shifter to solve it. (other then HD making it right in the first place) Had it happen to my 05 Ultra when it was new on a trip. First time I felt a bang while shifting. Thought it was me so I slowed down and downshifted to 1st. Seemed ok. An hour later it slipped upshifting and stuck in gear. Found the lever loose and tried tightening it up. Took it right back to the dealer who tightened it up again. Three hours the trans blew just below DC and had to rent a truck to get it home. Shifter arm slipped again apparently between gears. After a rebuild it was fine for a few years actually. Then started to come loose again. You could see that the space that was ment to clamp up around the trans shaft was closed to a point no amount of tightening would have been enough. Now the dealer claimed "normal wear" and wouldn't replace it under warranty. Thats when I started looking for a replacement and found Better Lever.

https://www.betterlever.com/product/better-lever/

With our ATC’s it was common for the lever to wear out a little where it clamps to the shaft …So I would just pull it off the shaft file the lever (Flats )where the pinch pin is and that gave more space for the pin to tighten on the shaft… the pinch pin/lever where it connects to the shaft is made from what they call sacrificial metal and will wear without hurting the shaft..
 

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