Rear Brake Problem

Oct 25, 2012
152
18
Savage, MD
Name
Bill
I'm having problems with my rear brakes. 2008 Wing - - 2011 Roadsmith trike.

I have special EBC soft (yellow) compound pads (purchased from Roadsmith) that are supposed to give much better stopping power. (there is 15,280 miles on that set of pads)

There is a possibility that one of my rear disk is warped, at least that is what my mechanic thinks. The wheel has never been off to check run-out of the disks. Roadsmith tells me that I would feel vibration at all speeds when applying rear brakes if a disk was warped. Now only feel pulsing "feeling" below 15 or 20 mph, my brakes badly feel like the wheel is BADLY elliptical. But rolling (at any speed) with no brakes it is smooth as can be.

Roadsmith says it is not break disk, but they have no clue what it is. It does not seem to effect my stopping power. I was hoping some day to find a real trike builder and see what they say, but the closest one I know about is about 200 miles up into PA.

I think the brakes are 1977 VW replacement disk brakes (VWs came with drum brakes and aftermarket disk) that the hub and disk are one piece that are on a spindle that the bearings are NOT in the hub. Can NOT be purchased from car parts place. A new disk, which is custom made by Roadsmith is a mere $99 + shipping, though locally "like" what I have are about $45.

Anybody have thoughts on what might be the cause??
 
From what we're hearing, Blueribbon, it sounds as if you have warped rotors. If that IS the case, then you have two options. You can either order the rotors from us or have yours machined or "turned" at a local auto parts store.

And, just an FYI... although some of our components are VW-based, our hub/rotor is made with a popular bolt pattern that offers far more wheel choices than would be available for the VW Beetle.

Hope that helps...
 
"have yours machined or "turned" at a local auto parts store."
+1 but, that's after checking them for run out. No need to "turn" if they are not warped!
I do not agree that the pulsing would be felt at "all speeds" if the rotors were wrapped!
I have experienced the same pulsating at low speeds and found warped rotors not only on bike/trikes but also on some of my cages.
 
If you can jack up both rear wheels, put the trike in neutral and have someone rotate the wheel with the tire still installed and lightly touch your brake pedal. You should be able to visually tell if the run out on the disk is off because it will tick on the brake pad as the high spot goes by. You should be able to take the disk off and have it turned unless the thing is too badly warped.... the machinist will quickly let you know if it is.
 
If you can jack up both rear wheels, put the trike in neutral and have someone rotate the wheel with the tire still installed and lightly touch your brake pedal. You should be able to visually tell if the run out on the disk is off because it will tick on the brake pad as the high spot goes by. You should be able to take the disk off and have it turned unless the thing is too badly warped.... the machinist will quickly let you know if it is.

Thank for your suggestion. This is the most logical approach to find out if it is warped. I checked carefully today, and there is no pedal feed back. Rather it is like the trike is going over a lot of speed bumps. It only happens below 20 mph with the rear brake applied. Front break or no break have no effect.
 
Did you possibly forget and ride off with the parking brake on / the parking brake handle side is the brake pedal side also. The parking brake uses a small pair of std. looking horseshoe brake pads that work on the inside of the rotor hubs to grab from the inside like a drum brake does / so there are actually two sets of pads on each rear wheel - the Yellowstuff pads on the rotors you can see and the small pair of brake shoes inside the rear hub portion of the rotor assembly. If you adjusted your parking brake tension to make them work better stopped, you have to also make sure your trike rolls freely once the parking brake is dis-enguaged. Those little shoes dragging will really heat those rotor hubs up... and they will warp if forgotten the brake is on even if just dragging. And yes its a PITA to get them off!!! If the shoes are found to be glased and over heated looking they can't be reused as they have no temper now, so new shoes and get the rotor checked for turning AND the inner brake shoe area turned and matched with the shoes in arc... they have to match to work correctly - both sides. Hope this info helps.... Blue....
 
Solidbob, sounds like you are speaking from sad experience. If the pads on the emergency brake work like you described, that could seem to account for the lumpy speed bumpy ride at low speeds. Could the emergency brake shoes get buggered if you took off with the parking brake on? (not that I have ever done it myself :D)
 
I've never done it but have torn those areas down & cleaned up some rough spots.... because the shoes cover the whole area inside the rotor it won't take long for a dragging set of pads to cook the shoes and really over heat the whole rotor/hub assembly.... Just a possibility.... :AGGHH:
 

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