Question for Lee Mann, drive axle replacement parts?

[Scott1]

Original owner, I have a Lehman Valkyrie Interstate Trike, kit #YS-0200767, built 9-14-2002. Solid axle, I believe it is a ford. I need all information for the drive axle replacement parts.

(1) Drum brake shoes? I have a parking brake.

(2) Axle seals?

(3) Axle bearings?

(4) Differential seals @ drive shaft?

(5) Differential cover gasket?

(6) U-Joint?

(7) Any other parts I may need to replace?

I look forward to your reply and if you have any questions please ask.

Greg

 

[Lee H. Mann]

Greg,

The rear axle for the Lehman trike shaft driven models was a variation of the Ford 6 3/4" rear used in the Mustang II and Bobcat. Initially the axle was for 1971-1978 model and later Lehman used 1979-1981 models.

In 1999 Lehman used the earlier model axle as a model and had their later axle manufactured overseas (India) based on the 1971-1978 model.

Some kits built after 1999 still had the 1979-1981 modified rear axle with a 25 splined axle shaft.

The 1971-1978 had a 23 splined axle.

The gears for the differentials, the differential case carrier and the differential case were all copied from the 1971-1978 design.

Since the rear axles were shortened, they were also manufactured overseas.

Brake drums and shoes were for the same models but wheel cylinders and shoes have changed over the years.

The kit number or axle number you provided will not help me identify the rear.

Two different covers were used, a square cover and an octagonal cover.

Although prevalent at the time, local parts suppliers have stopped stocking some of these parts (brake parts) and all of the OEM axle parts (depending on the specific axle) are virtually non-existent.

I still deal with the manufacturer in India so some of these parts are still available.

The ring & pinion gear sets are no longer being manufactured and the remaining inventory should last 7-10 years according to past replacement numbers.

A picture of the rear cover is worth a 1000 words.

Lee

 

[Scott1]

Hi Jim,

I have attached a picture of the rear cover and both sides. Hope the pictures helps.

Sorry for the large pictures, I thought they would be thumbnail size.

Greg

 

[Scott1]

Hi Jim,

I have been reading posts for a few hours trying to do some self-help. I found 2 (.pdf's) that look like the information that I was asking about.

Diff Parts Diagram.pdf and Drum brake part info.pdf

Are the 2 documents (pdf) correct for the pictures that I have in my last post? For a 2002 solid axle with drum brakes?

Would you recommend different parts or are these parts good replacements?

1 last question, to change out the final gear lube, how many quarts do I need?

Thank you for all the knowledge you provide and time that you expend answering questions where information is so hard to obtain.

Greg

 

[Lee H. Mann]

Hi Jim,

I have been reading posts for a few hours trying to do some self-help. I found 2 (.pdf's) that look like the information that I was asking about.

Diff Parts Diagram.pdf and Drum brake part info.pdf

Are the 2 documents (pdf) correct for the pictures that I have in my last post? For a 2002 solid axle with drum brakes?

Would you recommend different parts or are these parts good replacements?

1 last question, to change out the final gear lube, how many quarts do I need?

Thank you for all the knowledge you provide and time that you expend answering questions where information is so hard to obtain.

Greg

Greg,

Some of the parts are the same.

Obviously the rear differential cover gasket is not and the internals are also different.

The axles may be 25 spline and they would be different too.

When adding oil to the rear, fill below the plug (3/4").

Jim

 

[CrystalPistol]

I have this list

Description Lehman Number Vendor Part Number Vendor

Brake Shoes GB1118 474RP RaybestosLt Brake Adjuster Kit GB1110 2592 EIS

Rt Brake Adjuster Kit GB1112 2593 EIS

Brake Spring Kit GB1124 7157 EIS

Wheel Cylinders GB1122 EW34958 TRU-TECH

Diff. Cover Gasket (octagon) GG0650 RDS 13073 Fel Pro

Diff. Cover Gasket (square) GG0650-0 RDS 55323 Fel Pro

Axle Bearing GB1001 RW207 CCRA BCA

Axle Flange Gaskets GG0600 n/a AGSPark Brake Cable GB1114 370100 ABSCO

Brake Drum GB1120 857 ITT

Axle Stud CS1001 560-186 Papco

Brake Shoe Retainer GB1119 D7TZ2028B Ford

Pinion Seal GS1056 8181 NA National

Axle Seal (25 spline shaft drive) - GS1052 3214 National

Axle Seal (23 spline shaft drive) - GS1050 3199 National

Speedi Sleeve (shft drv) GS1058 99181 National

I know to check / compare, but so far it's proven accurate for mine converted in '98. I haven't had occasion to check splines, but may do that this spring service (has Amsoil lube in it now). Mine has the same "square" cover, looks like Indy (4 straights and 4 turns). I usually start with lookup for 1980 Pinto. I can get all the brake parts & drums still, don't have the parking brake, gotta take care of axle bearings … and that ring & pinion though.

 

[CrystalPistol]

Greg,

The rear axle for the Lehman trike shaft driven models was a variation of the Ford 6 3/4" rear used in the Mustang II and Bobcat. Initially the axle was for 1971-1978 model and later Lehman used 1979-1981 models.

In 1999 Lehman used the earlier model axle as a model and had their later axle manufactured overseas (India) based on the 1971-1978 model.

Some kits built after 1999 still had the 1979-1981 modified rear axle with a 25 splined axle shaft.

The 1971-1978 had a 23 splined axle.

The gears for the differentials, the differential case carrier and the differential case were all copied from the 1971-1978 design.

Since the rear axles were shortened, they were also manufactured overseas.

Brake drums and shoes were for the same models but wheel cylinders and shoes have changed over the years.

The kit number or axle number you provided will not help me identify the rear.

Two different covers were used, a square cover and an octagonal cover.

Although prevalent at the time, local parts suppliers have stopped stocking some of these parts (brake parts) and all of the OEM axle parts (depending on the specific axle) are virtually non-existent.

I still deal with the manufacturer in India so some of these parts are still available.

The ring & pinion gear sets are no longer being manufactured and the remaining inventory should last 7-10 years according to past replacement numbers.

A picture of the rear cover is worth a 1000 words.

Lee

Jim,

I have a question please.

Have you noted any correlation between axle years &/or spline count and the type of rear cover used? I've seen the octagon shaped one on some early '70s Pintos, etc, (maybe '71-'78?) but I think the square or "Indy style" were later (like maybe the '79-'81 years)? I noticed a 2003 Lehman manual shows a octagon looking rear in the drawing, but my '98 GTL has the square one?

I figure if anyone has looked at it close, it's you.



Thank You

 

[Lee H. Mann]

The 1978 and earlier 6.75" rear axle had the octagonal cover while the 1979 had the square cover.

Back when they were building those rear axles they would travel all over the US and Canada looking for those rear housings.

I know there are part number differences for things such as the differential carrier and differential kit.

I have seen several with 4 pinion carriers instead of 2 but can't remember the axle spline count.

And I know that there are different axle spline counts.

What I don't know is what differences really exist between the two.:Shrug:

I know that they take 2 different pinion bearings too.

 

[CrystalPistol]

Thank You Jim.

We had a '72 Pinto with 4cyl & auto as a spare car made from two wrecks welded together across the roof (it was cheap, but it never left one to walking), etc and a buddy of mine had a '74 Mustang II "Mach 1" that had a V-6 & 4 speed, they both had the octagon shaped cover, but my buddy broke his once, likely jamming gears even though it wasn't fast. Later, after getting married, I bought my wife a '76 that had a new remanned 2.3 4cyl & auto trans, it too had the octagon cover. I did once see a Pinto on a lift at a gas station I worked at had a Ford 8 inch rear with the hogshead that dropped out the front, looked "overkill".

The 1978 and earlier 6.75" rear axle had the octagonal cover while the 1979 had the square cover. … etc …

I know we are drifting, but I thought I'd share a link to a thread that has some interesting points about the 6.75 rear axles. Post #12 in particular.

http://vb.foureyedpride.com/showthread.php?178226-2-3-Turbo-and-6-75-rear-end

If I rode only mountains or always pulled a trailer, etc, I bet that 3.45:1 ratio (like running really short rear tires) would wake it up?

But I'm just talking out loud … & … I am just gonna take care of mine as best as I can.

 

[Lee H. Mann]

You would probably be buzzing 4K RPM's at 70 MPH......:cxtv:

 

[Scott1]

Lehman picked a solid axle rear end (Ford 6.75") that is so outdated that common replacement parts are unavailable or are becoming unavailable. I am purchasing a complete set of seals, gaskets, bearings, wheel cylinders, and driveshaft u-joints (all ware parts) so I have 1 complete set of spare parts. I can do my own repairs, but I need the replacement parts. Buy now or cry later.

I was looking for an aftermarket differential cover for the Ford 6.75" rear end. I wanted to get one that had a drain plug so I can change the gear oil without removing the cover every time. I found that no one makes a replacement differential cover with or without a drain plug (Google search). So, don't destroy your differential cover thinking you can order a replacement. I only found badly rusted covers on eBay. I could weld in a drain plug, in the differential cover, but I was looking for an easier way by purchasing a new cover.

Greg

 

[CrystalPistol]

Lehman picked a solid axle rear end (Ford 6.75") that is so outdated that common replacement parts are unavailable or are becoming unavailable. I am purchasing a complete set of seals, gaskets, bearings, wheel cylinders, and driveshaft u-joints (all ware parts) so I have 1 complete set of spare parts. I can do my own repairs, but I need the replacement parts. Buy now or cry later.

I was looking for an aftermarket differential cover for the Ford 6.75" rear end. I wanted to get one that had a drain plug … etc …

I have my method of adding a drain plug of 1/2-20 thread (I do this for my transmission pans), but then the subject of drilling to fit a Dodge rubber plug came up. It's not a big deal IMHO, as it's not something done really often like engine oil changes, and removing the cover lets one clean / drain the rear axle housing really well.

When they picked the 6.75" rear, they were plentiful, they were all over the place. They still are "out there", they are lighter than some alternatives, plenty adequate for the task, and preferable to using some rear end I never heard of maybe created in outer Mongolia I think. Seals, gaskets, bearings, wheel cylinders, brake parts, (pretty common 9" Ford drum brakes) and driveshaft u-joint will be available for a long time, it's the short axle shafts and ring and pinion or spider gears that will get scarce. Biggest danger to anything I think is danger of axle seal leak going un-noticed leading to low lube level leading to bad axle bearing and then miles eating up an axle itself. Not real likely as the bearing has it's own inner race though, unless not noticed for a long ways.

No welding risk to the cover or pan, I weld a 1/2-20 nut to a piece of 1/8" steel after drilling a 15/32" hole, then run a 1/2-20 tap through. Use two 1/4-20 bolts to secure it in place in pan with just one 1/2" and two 1/4" holes drilled. I use red locktite on the 1/4" bolts, even peen the threads on occasion, use a regular drain plug (magnetized maybe) & sealing washer. Have not done it on diff cover, but it'd work just dandy. I made a few last time to have on hand. Put it in a place that doesn't interfere with mechanicals (ring gear). Looks crude, but works, no leaks with hot ATF or MerconV. I liked the rubber plug idea too, just get extra plugs.

 

[Scott1]

Jim,

When I was cleaning inside the differential I found stamped # 3537 at the top of the differential case. On the ring gear the # 3537 was etched into the gear. See picture for locations. Do these numbers cross reference to any information about the rear end? Could Lehman supply any information using this differential number (3537) or axle kit # YS-0200767 ?

Thank you, Greg

 

[Lee H. Mann]

The ring gear has a series of numbers and letters.

Count the ring gear and pinion teeth.

Any casting numbers and where they were located.

See if you can send me all of the numbers in their particular groups and I will try to find out what those numbers tell me.:Shrug:

Jim

 

[Scott1]

Jim,

The numbers (3537) were hand punched into the top of the differential casing where the gasket goes and also engraved with a vibra tool into the ring gear spacer as marked in the attached picture.

Ring gear is factory marked (D97W 4210-BA-1541) I will count the teeth on the ring and pinion before I close it up.

Greg

 

[Lee H. Mann]

Jim,

The numbers (3537) were hand punched into the top of the differential casing where the gasket goes and also engraved with a vibra tool into the ring gear spacer as marked in the attached picture.

Ring gear is factory marked (D97W 4210-BA-1541) I will count the teeth on the ring and pinion before I close it up.

Greg

Greg,

The D97W-4210-BA is really D9ZW-4210-BA and comes back as a ring gear, part of a ring & pinion set.

D7FZ-4209-A is the ring & pinion set number and fits a 77-78 Pinto, Mustang with a 6 3/4" rear axle.

The ratio for that set is 2.73:1 (15 pinion 41 ring).

Problem or issue ???

The 77-78 Pinto, Mustang had an octagonal rear cover and yours is square (1979).

Your picture shows 79 type bearing shims instead of a 78 and earlier threaded case pre-load adjuster.

See if you can look on either side of the carrier for a casting number.:Shrug:

 

[CrystalPistol]

Hi Jim,

Just gonna say it's good to see your posts, I missed some of them, was a little mildly worried. Hope all is well, maybe just busy with shop?

Was following thread, thinking about those shims, 3537 would seem to be set up notes maybe, like maybe left & right shim thickness for that carrier in that housing with those gears? 0.035" & 0.037"? I wasn't there.

Tried to PM, no good,

Take Care … Les

 

[Lee H. Mann]

Hi Jim,

Just gonna say it's good to see your posts, I missed some of them, was a little mildly worried. Hope all is well, maybe just busy with shop?

Was following thread, thinking about those shims, 3537 would seem to be set up notes maybe, like maybe left & right shim thickness for that carrier in that housing with those gears? 0.035" & 0.037"? I wasn't there.

Tried to PM, no good,

Take Care … Les

The pre-load shims are much thicker.



77-78 6.75" housing with adjustable carrier pre-load and locks.



The actual adjuster and lock.



The pre-load shim used in the 79.

 

[CrystalPistol]

I could see the shims in the pic, I just couldn't measure them.

It was just a thought.

 

[Scott1]

Greg,

The D97W-4210-BA is really D9ZW-4210-BA and comes back as a ring gear, part of a ring & pinion set.

D7FZ-4209-A is the ring & pinion set number and fits a 77-78 Pinto, Mustang with a 6 3/4" rear axle.

The ratio for that set is 2.73:1 (15 pinion 41 ring).

Problem or issue ???

The 77-78 Pinto, Mustang had an octagonal rear cover and yours is square (1979).

Your picture shows 79 type bearing shims instead of a 78 and earlier threaded case pre-load adjuster.

See if you can look on either side of the carrier for a casting number.:Shrug:

Jim,

I counted the teeth on the ring gear (total 41) and pinion gear (total 15) teeth.

Ok, the ring gear markings are D9ZW-4210-BA. The Z looks like a 7, poor incomplete punch mark.

Yes, the differential cover is square in shape, not octagonal.

I looked at the markings on the part to the left of the ring gear and it had D9BW BA and a #10 with what looked like (GB in a circle).

The part to the right of the ring gear was marked 9E23 and had 7 razed dots in the casting.

I'm not having any problems, all parts have very little play, if any, when turning by hand. I was just looking for information about my Lehman kit and replacement ware parts (seals, bearings and brake parts) just in case a problem does happen. I hope I never have to disassemble the rear drive other than changing the differential oil.

Thanks, Greg

 

[Lee H. Mann]

The only wear issues the Lehman has is periodic brake adjustment and keep the u-joint greased.

Keep clean brake fluid (DOT 3 or 4) in the system and watch for rear pinion seal, axle or rear cover leaks.

Brakes should last 60-80,000 miles with regular use.ThumbUp

 

[Scott1]

I got a new differential gasket and put a bead of Permatex Maximum Oil Resistance RTV Silicone around the differential cover, put LocTite (blue) on each of the 8 bolts and installed the gasket, cover and bolts hand tight. After 1 hour, I torqued the 8 bolts to 20 ft-lbs, than waited 24 hours for the silicone to setup. I got 2 quarts of Mobil 1, 75W-90 Synthetic Gear Lube and pumped in 52 ounces to fill the differential, so the fluid is level with the fill hole. When spring comes I'll put on 100 miles then check the fluid level. I will recheck the fluid level at every oil change and the new differential fluid should be good for the next 50,000 miles. Always check the pinion seal, differential gasket, and each axle seal for leakage every oil change. Project done, ride safe. Greg

 

[Lee H. Mann]

I got a new differential gasket and put a bead of Permatex Maximum Oil Resistance RTV Silicone around the differential cover, put LocTite (blue) on each of the 8 bolts and installed the gasket, cover and bolts hand tight. After 1 hour, I torqued the 8 bolts to 20 ft-lbs, than waited 24 hours for the silicone to setup. I got 2 quarts of Mobil 1, 75W-90 Synthetic Gear Lube and pumped in 52 ounces to fill the differential, so the fluid is level with the fill hole. When spring comes I'll put on 100 miles then check the fluid level. I will recheck the fluid level at every oil change and the new differential fluid should be good for the next 50,000 miles. Always check the pinion seal, differential gasket, and each axle seal for leakage every oil change. Project done, ride safe. Greg

You might want to remove 10oz of gear oil.

I think the max is 42oz.:cxtv:

I usually do 36oz.

 

[Scott1]

You might want to remove 10oz of gear oil.

I think the max is 42oz.:cxtv:

I usually do 36oz.

When I looked at the fill plug on the differential case, I decided to fill the differential until the fluid dripped out the fill hole (52 oz.). The axle tube needs to have enough gear oil depth to run down to the end of each axle to lube the axle bearings and pinion bearing. But not too full to put pressure on the axle and pinion seals which may damage them. I think the fill hole was placed at this point, so that there is enough gear oil to fill the axle tubes and still have room for thermal expansion.

If you measure from the bottom of the oil fill hole, to the bottom of the axle tube, it measures about 3/4". The axle tube measurers about 2-1/2" in diameter. The fluid level inside the axle tube would be about 5/8" deep, leaving about 1-3/4" of space above the gear oil inside the axle tube. I also measured the pinion shaft at the yoke and the fluid level comes to about the center of the pinion shaft. With about 1-3/4" space above the gear oil level inside the axle tube and where the fluid level is inside the rear of the differential housing cover, the amount of room for thermal expansion should be more than enough. If not, the gear oil will come out the breather cap that is on top of the axle tube. With the breather, the axle and pinion bearing seals should be just fine and no pressure should build up on the oil seals.

In a earlier post, (#5), you stated to fill the differential gear oil to 3/4" below the oil fill hole. At that level, the gear oil is only at the very bottom of the axle tube, if my measurements are correct. If you only fill the differential with 36-42 oz. of gear oil, you may not have enough gear oil depth for the gear oil to run down the axle tube and properly lube the axle bearings and pinion bearing. There isn't a gear oil pump or dipstick for the differential, so you need enough gear oil depth to reach the end of the axle tube. There are many instruction articles that say to fill the differential until the gear oil drips out the fill hole, drive 10 miles and recheck the fluid level after cool down. Add more gear oil if needed.

This is just my opinion and I am far from being any type of an expert, I go by common sense. If I am wrong by filling the differential to this level, the only problem would be gear oil coming out the breather and at that point, I would lower the fluid level in differential . *Above measurements are only approximate due to configuration and available measuring space.

Greg

 

[Lee H. Mann]

Greg,

Your conclusion is wrong.

The axle bearings are sealed bearings and there is a seal between the differential and the bearing.

By overfilling the rear and allowing the gear lube to sit in the axle tube, it can cause premature seal failure as well as axle bearing failure.

Drain 10oz or so.:cxtv:

 

[CrystalPistol]

Greg,

Your conclusion is wrong.

The axle bearings are sealed bearings and there is a seal between the differential and the bearing.

By overfilling the rear and allowing the gear lube to sit in the axle tube, it can cause premature seal failure as well as axle bearing failure.

Drain 10oz or so.:cxtv:

Yep.

The 6.75" axle's wheel end bearings are sealed, they use a press fit & collar to retain the axles, differential/gear lube seal is just inside the bearing towards the differential. The bearing is a sealed pre-lubricated with grease type bearing with it's own inner & outer race. Looking at parts histories, that bearing number was used by Ford as early as 1948 in the F series pickups (maybe further?). That same bearing (in the movie "Thunder Road", the '50 Ford Mitchum drove … it even had those same bearings) services many Fords through the '50s, '60s, even into the '70s & '80s … but not those with the heavier 9 inch rears (same type, but bigger bearings).

It's the later 7.5" and 8.8" Ford rears that use C clips in the differential to secure axles which rode directly on the rollers of bearings in the wheel end of axle tube, they have a seal on the outside of the bearing.

https://www.rockauto.com/en/moreinfo.php?pk=4583643&cc=1135268

________________________________________________

Was reading back, looking for something I wrote in an earlier post someplace that just didn't "sit right" with me. I found it here:

… etc …

Biggest danger to anything I think is danger of axle seal leak going un-noticed leading to low lube level leading to bad axle bearing and then miles eating up an axle itself. Not real likely as the bearing has it's own inner race though, unless not noticed for a long ways.

… etc …

I should have said >>> "Biggest danger to anything I think is danger of axle seal leak going un-noticed leading to low lube level in the differential" <<< and just stopped there with that thought. It was in this thread awhile back, so I include it here … I can't edit that post now.

:Shrug: I was also conversing with another member about differences between the 6.75 and the 7.5 (his) and there was a question mentioning fill level, but his axle is upside down in a Valkyrie Trike, so maybe that's where I got side tracked or de-railed? Anyway, it was bothering me, I knew I mis-typed somewhere, but was not sure where until now. :blush: Now? … now I'm at peace.

 

[Scott1]

Greg,

Your conclusion is wrong.

The axle bearings are sealed bearings and there is a seal between the differential and the bearing.

By overfilling the rear and allowing the gear lube to sit in the axle tube, it can cause premature seal failure as well as axle bearing failure.

Drain 10oz or so.:cxtv:

I will remove 10 oz. of gear oil. I thought the gear oil had to lube the axle bearing.

Ok, I'm learning and trying to figure out how things work. Sometimes reading on the Net. will lead you down the wrong way.

I found a exploded view of the axle for a Ford Mustang II with a square differential cover that shows where the axle shaft seal is located.

http://www.mustangii.org/decoder/axle/

It would be a great thing if Lehman would have a service manual that explained how to service the trike kit.

Thanks Jim for the correct information.

Greg

 

[CrystalPistol]

I found a exploded view of the axle for a Ford Mustang II with a square differential cover that shows where the axle shaft seal is located.

http://www.mustangii.org/decoder/axle/

You posted a better picture in your post #4.

Hi Jim,Diff Parts Diagram.pdf and Drum brake part info.pdf Greg

____________________________________________

… etc …

It would be a great thing if Lehman would have a service manual that explained how to service the trike kit.

Thanks Jim for the correct information.

Greg

They did, several, install manuals too … when new models or changes came out.

 

[Scott1]

They did, several, install manuals too … when new models or changes came out.

Ok, where can I get a manual and any updates?

I have a 1999 Valkyrie Interstate with a 2002 Predator Kit with a solid axle and shaft drive. The manual that came with the trike kit had very little information. What I received as a manual. http://www.lehmantrikes.com/assets/docs/uploads/Manuals/ownermanualonline.pdf

No Lehman dealers in Pittsburgh, PA.

My first attempt at having my Valkyrie made into a trike. I went to the local Harley shop 10 miles from my home. He was on the Lehman dealer list. I talked to the trike salesman about triking my Valkyrie. He told me that they were a Harley dealer and do not work on Honda motorcycles. But I ask, you are a Lehman trike installer and the said yes, but we don’t work on Honda motorcycles. Then I said, you don’t want my money and he just looked at me and said it’s not a Harley and walked away. 6 years later they went out of business.

Next, I called a shop called JT’s A Cut Above and talked to Jim the owner, his shop was about 50 miles from home. I drove out to his shop and he said he would be glad to do my conversion. He said I don’t sell motorcycles, but he did many different trike conversions and asked me what I wanted converted to a trike. When I told him that I had a Valkyrie, he said I can do that and took me out back where he had a Valkyrie with a Motor Trike kit installed.I told him I wanted a Lehman trike kit and he said he just got back from Lehman and was factory trained. He than told me the kit takes about 6 weeks to come in from Lehman and we went over exactly what I wanted, which options, and price. I cut him a check.

Jim closed his shop in 2005, going through a divorce and moved everything to his barn 2 miles from the shop. He was building trikes there until he passed away 1-1/2 years later.

 

[CrystalPistol]

It's a pretty cool looking trike you have.

Where to get manuals now is a good question. I don't know where to get them now, or even if you can get them now. "Lee H Mann" (aka: Jim Murphy) is a huge source of information, he keeps good historical records too I think, not too far from you, be worth a visit (I want to do so one of these days myself ... Martinsburg, WVa. ain't too far IMHO … just 138 miles on my side … and a nice day ride down old US40 from you ... & spring is coming fast). It's obvious to me that the mechanicals are pretty much the same, brakes, rear axle, swing arm, driveshaft, U-joints … the trike parts … between my GL1500 GTL trike and your Valkyrie trike. Body parts differ, some details like that ... but you already found pages about brakes & rear axle parts.