Out for a ride and it just Quit

[Tripacer1]

have a 02 Ultra that has a Roadsmith Kit
wife and I went for a little ride tonight to go see the Grandkids about 20 miles down the road minding our own Buisness and the engine just shuts down then fires back up and we go a little further and it shuts down again and we coast to a stop.
shut down everything, put the brake on and take it out of gear turn on the main switch and then the Stop / Kill switch and it fires Right back up
so we changed our mind went back and got 4 wheels and drove that out to see them. It ran fine all the way home
my question do you think the ECM would Remember a code on this ???
is there a way to read the Code with out taking it to the Stealer ??
i did notice that when i quit the second time everything Dropped off line Radio , guages Tach everything
Could be the kill swich in the handle bar is shorted or the main switch is going bad ?????
kind of unnerving to say the least
we were going to take it on about a 3K Trip here Starting Wednesday but now going to take the 4 wheels instead till i get a chance to do some trouble shooting

HELP anyone ???

 

[screwball]

When you turn on the ignition, does the check engine light come on then off, then when you turn on the kill switch does it come back on for a minute??? Means there is a trouble code in memory. Search this site for how to dump the codes, and read them. Good Luck.

OR

Take it to a dealer and pay the labor costs.

 

[ROAD DOG]

I have replaced a few ignition switches , the contacts get hot & melt ,when you turn the switch on & off they make contact again for a while . Harley did have recall on them a few years back ? you can pull the ignition apart & check it to see if its all melted & messed up The hardest part is getting the key lock cylinder out . GOOD LUCK

 

[99lehman]

iam not the best at thisbut ill try. I know they had a problem with the main breaker i think it came with a 20 amp or a 30 amp
Mother harley went two a 50 amp sounds good. But on my bike a mecanix put a infrared toll the relay was 180 degres just turing on inj. so the cut the wire and short it 1 inch and put it back together have put 5,000 mile since has not stopped since. we tried about 4 relays would no stop blowing them . iam going to stop now

 

[Gorilla]

Hard to tell without being there but also see if you have a loose battery cable, both hot and ground. Check both ends of the cables.

 

[trikermutha]

Sounds like the main breaker..All power lost then returns?? Check the connection at the main breaker and maybe even replace the main breaker..

Hope that is all it is...

good Luck..

 

[Bikerbozo]

All sound like good ideas to check. Personally, I would go with ignition switch. If it does have a code, the following are directions for checking. I just took them off internet. You could look up what codes mean that way also. I left in directions up to 2004-2006 model for others. Worked good on a 2004 I had.

Instructions

Creating a Diagnostic Jumper Wire
1 Cut a short 3-inch piece of wire.

2 Strip both ends of the wire with wire stripper tool.


3 Attach a female spade clip to each end of the wire and crimp with a wire stripper tool.


Delphi ECM Testing (2000 - 2003 models)
4 Remove the right side cover to access the data link connector.

5 Remove the protective plug from the data link connector.

6 Connect your jumper wire to the first and second terminal on the data link connector.

7 Turn the ignition switch on and wait for 10 seconds. The light will turn on for 4 seconds, then off for 6 seconds. After this 6 second interval, any stored trouble codes will appear as sequential flashes.

8 Count the number of times the lamp flashes; this is the first code. The code will repeat three times before playing the next code, if any, after a 3 second pause.

9 Record the codes and refer to your service manual for possible faults or conditions.

10 Turn off the ignition switch and remove the jumper wire.

11 Replace the right side cover.


Delphi ECM Testing (2004 - 2006 models)
12 Turn the Ignition switch to the OFF position.

13 Set the Run/Stop switch to the Run position.

14 Push in the odometer reset button and hold.

15 Turn on the ignition switch and release the odometer reset button. The process has been completed correctly when the speedometer needle sweeps across the speedometer and all indicator lamps illuminate. The speedometer will also display "DIAG."

16 Press the odometer reset button once. "PSSPt" will display on the speedometer. Each letter signifies an area of the diagnostics testing, with the current selection flashing. Push the odometer reset button to scroll through the components for testing.

17 Press and hold the odometer reset button for 5 seconds, then release. Any codes stored will be displayed on the speedometer. If no codes are stored, the speedometer will display "NONE."

18 Press the odometer reset button again to view additional codes, if any.

19 Record the codes and refer to your service manual for possible faults or conditions.

20 Turn off the Ignition switch to exit the diagnostics testing.


Tips & Warnings


Although a service manual is required to determine what a specific trouble code means, many Harley-Davidson forums have code tables available. If you are not confident that you can complete this project, please take your motorcycle to a qualified technician.



The engine may start when connecting a jumper wire to the data link connector. This is normal during the diagnostic testing phase. The "check engine light" will continue to flash any existing codes as long as the ignition switch is on and the jumper wire is in place of the data connector link.

 

[Bikerbozo]

Hey, balloons just fell from the ceiling in my hotel. Didn't realize that last post was #1000 for me!!!

 

[Tripacer1]

To Answers Screwballs Question
when you turn on the Main Ign Switch with the Kill switch off the the check engine Light [B]doesnt [/B]come on but with the main switch on and then turn on the Kill switch the check engine light does come on
i also noticed that when it started . after it quit . the the check engine light was on and it took a while to go off but did go off
and Thank you BikerBozo for the instructions on how to check the Code will get that done today if time permits
also did not think about that CB under the seat are you saying go with a bigger one ??
and replace the wire that comes up from the starter ??

 

[trikermutha]

Most likey if you have a code it will flash then stop and flash again..as you count the flashes and the delays in the flashes it will give you the code if I remeber correctly

I really still think its the main breaker..When the bymetal heats up the breaker trips then cools off and resets..

I would check the easy stuff first like connections the main breaker etc.

Start the bike and if you have a amp meter check the amps going in and out of the main breaker..

Good Luck..

 

[Tripacer1]

spoke with one of my customer today (he was a HD dealer for 15 years) and as soon as i started describing the issue he told me it was the ign Switch
acording to him it was a common problem especial when people DO NOT KILL THE ENGINE with the Kill switch if you use the just the ign switch it puts a HIGH AMP load when you first turn it on and that cause a lot of failures
Switch is Ordered from HD and taking the Trike to them to Change it
acording to there Flat Rate its only .8 hr so i can not afford to screw with it for that

 

[Phu Cat]

Our '98 Ultra had the exact same symptoms. Replacing the bank angle sensor fixed the problem.

As far as the ignition switch being bad, I hope that fixes your problem. EVERY MC I've ever had I used the ign switch to shut off the engine and never had a problem similar to yours, nor heard of one.

Phu Cat

 

[Skeet7373]

I'm just an old gal but think of this and I have not idea if it was a problem with your earlier bike. A good friend went to sturgis with his 09 EG Standard. He had the power to go off then come back on several times especially after hitting a bump in the road. Luckly he found a smart service manager at Evansville, In to say that HD had a problem with the material over the contacts in the wiring harness for the throttle side switches. They looked at the codes and then replaced the wiring harness and the contacts for the switches. All was well after 4 hours and he was back on the road. Disclaimer, I have no knowledge of electronics and if this was for nothing then EXCUSE ME!! Hope my explanation makes sense.

 

[Tripacer1]

Back from Vacation and picked up the bike today after the HD dealer changed my switch out they only charged me $49.54 to change out the main ign switch and read the Codes
i got Two Historical Codes
P1357 ign coil Intermiten Secondary
P1651 Check Eng Lite Open / Low

does anyone have a little better explanation on what these mean
the first one about the coil i think i understand that the Secondary (high Tension side) is going intermittent could be coil , Plug wires or Plugs and not sure when it happened

the second one could not get a real good feeling about there explanation

Im going to change the Circut Breaker under the seat out tomorrow (there Cheap why not) book says 40 amp but told it should be a 50 amp
also the guy at the HD dealer said my bike had this changed under warranty (a Recall ) in 2004 but it did not say exactly what was in the recall does anyone know for sure what it was about

Thanks
dont know what i would do with out this Forum

 

[msocko3]

Back from Vacation and picked up the bike today after the HD dealer changed my switch out they only charged me $49.54 to change out the main ign switch and read the Codes
i got Two Historical Codes
P1357 ign coil Intermiten Secondary
P1651 Check Eng Lite Open / Low

does anyone have a little better explanation on what these mean
the first one about the coil i think i understand that the Secondary (high Tension side) is going intermittent could be coil , Plug wires or Plugs and not sure when it happened

the second one could not get a real good feeling about there explanation

Im going to change the Circut Breaker under the seat out tomorrow (there Cheap why not) book says 40 amp but told it should be a 50 amp
also the guy at the HD dealer said my bike had this changed under warranty (a Recall ) in 2004 but it did not say exactly what was in the recall does anyone know for sure what it was about

Thanks
dont know what i would do with out this Forum

The second one could have been from the check engine light not seeing enough power, if I remember right it get power from and grounds through the ECM. The bad switch could have been robbing it of the power and set a code. I've never heard of the 40 amp fuse being a mistake, they still install only a 40 amp in the new Touring bikes & trikes.