Oil temp gauge

[rwhgme]

2010 Triglide. Just replaced air temp gauge. Today was 85. Was on a 25 mile ride at between 70-80 mph in 6th gear. Oil temp was around 240. What does yours run at?

 

[Gorilla]

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<img src="images/misc/quote_icon.png" alt="Quote" /> Originally Posted by <strong>rwhgme</strong>
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<div class="message">2010 Triglide. Just replaced air temp gauge. Today was 85. Was on a 25 mile ride at between 70-80 mph in 6th gear. Oil temp was around 240. What does yours run at?</div>

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</div>If you have a stock Tri-Glide that is about right. There is a lot you can do to drop that to around 210 to 220. Search the threads here for Hd it's been covered extensively.

 

[KRUZR]

I had a Oil Temp Ga put in this year as well. On a run home from Iowa City, about 150 miles a couple of times the temp was up about 230, as close as I could see. I'm running a Street Glide with a CSC conversion and it has a 103 with the 255 cams? Ride Safe

 

[03 Softail]

2010 Triglide. Just replaced air temp gauge. Today was 85. Was on a 25 mile ride at between 70-80 mph in 6th gear. Oil temp was around 240. What does yours run at?

did you replace the oil temp gauge yourself, how hard was it to replace,
I've got the chrome trime rings on my air temp gauge does that interfer
with changing over to the oil gauge and does the new oil gauge match the other gauges.
I've got the oil temp gauge that screws into the oil tank and I run between
235 - 250 depending on air temp.
thanks

 

[screwball]

It's not dificult if you are mechanically inclined. The sending unit goes into a threaded plug in the oil pan. You remove the Air temp gage, cut the light wire and crimp on a clip. About the hardest part if the install is getting the gage holder over the studs. The chrome trim won't interfer, and you don't have to take it off.<br />
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Good Luck!

 

[03 Softail]

thanks for the reply, Hd should of had these oil temp gauges stock, instead of the air temp.

 

[Boom]

So true! BTW, I found it a lot easier to install by removing the radio.

 

[KRUZR]

Maybe a dumb question. With all the talk about Oil Temp, I went out to the garage to take a closer look at my Oil Temp gauge. It's kinda of down low where the Air Temp position was and while riding it's hard to see well partially because I'm looking around an XM radio box. It's the Harley Gauge and I really don't know how to read it. Non of the numbers seem to aline with a line?? Sorry? The last couple of times out, I thought it got up to just under 260 (the number)

 

[rwhgme]

It reads 110 on the low, then first dot is 180 next dot is 230 next dot is not marked but (I think) is 245 next dot is 260 and next line way up is 350. As I said, I think this is how it reads. If not....never mind!

 

[Traveler]

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<img src="images/misc/quote_icon.png" alt="Quote" /> Originally Posted by <strong>KRUZR</strong>
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<div class="message">Maybe a dumb question. With all the talk about Oil Temp, I went out to the garage to take a closer look at my Oil Temp gauge. It's kinda of down low where the Air Temp position was and while riding it's hard to see well partially because I'm looking around an XM radio box. It's the Harley Gauge and I really don't know how to read it. Non of the numbers seem to aline with a line?? Sorry? The last couple of times out, I thought it got up to just under 260 (the number)</div>

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</div>Good question. When I installed mine I looked to see if there were any directions...Nope. <br />
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In looking at the gauge there is a 240 degree range 110 to 350.<br />
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The needle moves through 8 "sections", 4 of them marked with a dot, and the others marked with a slightly heavier/longer line. Each of the sections is 30 degrees.<br />
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When the needle is on the 3 in 230 (straight up) the temp is 230.

However when it is on the 6 in 260 the temp is 290!<br />
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At least this is what seems logical from looking at the gauge.

 

[FLTR2008TRIKE]

Just to let you know to get the true oil temp to see how well your oil cooler is working it needs to be plumbed into the ouput side of the oil cooler. This will give you a closer reading of what the oil temp is as it goes into the engine. The oil temp in the pan will typically be 30+ degrees higher due to the residual heat from the aluminum casing and the heat from the Transmision.

Aluminum will disapate heat quickly but will allow the heat to pass through from the trans as well

 

[KRUZR]

FLTR2008TRIKE, That makes sense and I'll a little relieved. I have a six row cooler now and I was thinking of going to a new 10 row cooler or even fan assisted cooler. Maybe that's not necessary.

 

[FLTR2008TRIKE]

FLTR2008TRIKE, That makes sense and I'll a little relieved. I have a six row cooler now and I was thinking of going to a new 10 row cooler or even fan assisted cooler. Maybe that's not necessary.

I had a 6 row on my 103 before taking my engine to a 117". If your seeing 260+ you would want to upgrade to a larger oil cooler. You want to your oil temp to reach a little over 200 to burn off any moisture that will normally accumilates in your oil but not run so hot to stress your engine and shorten the life of the oil

 

[Jersey James]

WOW!!! Those Tri Glides, run hot!!! My 93 HD Heritage Softail 3 wheel converstion, runs right around 200 degrees, and that is in Florida. It is NOT a stock Evo, I have the STD cases, S&S big bore kit, 585 S&S cam, S&S modified shorty G carb, with a 6 speed OD Baker. I do have a HD horizontal oil cooler mounted on the lower frame rails. Only other thing I can think of is, I use Mobil One full Syn. oil. I have checked my oil temp. with a thermal degree checker, and it is pretty much on. I would be very concerned with an expensive Tri Glide runing anything over 210....

 

[bullet 10]

Service manual states 230 is normal for triglide oil temps.

 

[Frang]

FLTR2008TRIKE, That makes sense and I'll a little relieved. I have a six row cooler now and I was thinking of going to a new 10 row cooler or even fan assisted cooler. Maybe that's not necessary.

same here,chked my temp today after about 40 miles.164 at oil tank so if it's reading 30+ than i'm about right.about 90 deg.ambient temp.called H-D yesterday and was told if i change the cooler to a jagg 10 row and have a problem due to oil my warrenty is void. :Shrug:

 

[FLTR2008TRIKE]

same here,chked my temp today after about 40 miles.164 at oil tank so if it's reading 30+ than i'm about right.about 90 deg.ambient temp.called H-D yesterday and was told if i change the cooler to a jagg 10 row and have a problem due to oil my warrenty is void. :Shrug:

The proof of burden is on Harley. You have to be willing to fight them to prove it though. I would like to know how the dealer figures a larger better cooling oil cooler is going to cause a issue with your oil?? Thats like them saying you have to buy your light bulbs from harley or you might damage your electrical system ..... The comical things some dealers tell people........LOL

 

[FLTR2008TRIKE]

WOW!!! Those Tri Glides, run hot!!! My 93 HD Heritage Softail 3 wheel converstion, runs right around 200 degrees, and that is in Florida. It is NOT a stock Evo, I have the STD cases, S&S big bore kit, 585 S&S cam, S&S modified shorty G carb, with a 6 speed OD Baker. I do have a HD horizontal oil cooler mounted on the lower frame rails. Only other thing I can think of is, I use Mobil One full Syn. oil. I have checked my oil temp. with a thermal degree checker, and it is pretty much on. I would be very concerned with an expensive Tri Glide runing anything over 210....

You have to consider the additional weight of the trike assembley ( 175+ lbs ) and wind drag you get with a trike. That will cause any engine to work harder which relates to more heat

 

[Frang]

The proof of burden is on Harley. You have to be willing to fight them to prove it though. I would like to know how the dealer figures a larger better cooling oil cooler is going to cause a issue with your oil?? Thats like them saying you have to buy your light bulbs from harley or you might damage your electrical system ..... The comical things some dealers tell people........LOL

It wasn't the dealer. I called custormer service.:Shrug:

 

[screwball]

What everyone has to remember is that your 2009, 10, 11, or 2012 Harley Tri-Glide FEELS and RUNS hotter than your old bike because it is 103 cdi, not 96, or 88 inches. ALL 2009 and above Turing bikes have a catalytic converter in the head pipe because YOUR Federal Government mandated it. Bitching and carping about the MoCo won't fix a thing. The mufflers you have on your bike are there because the Government made Harley put them on. Your bike has to be re-tuned after you buy it because your Government told Harley how lean it must burn to meet air quality standards, just like the car you drive.

My advice.... if you take it off, keep it. You never know when mandatory inspections will start, or smog checks will be expanded to motorcycles. Buy that extended warranty so if the heat does become a problem it will be Harley's problem, not yours. 230 - 250* oil temperature IS NOT BAD! Your car's radiator coolant runs at 220+*. It will probably get worse as Harley goes to the 110" motor in a year or two.

Ride it, Enjoy it, Have fun with it. It isn't your primary transportation (in most cases) it is a toy to enjoy. Stick lots of chrome on it, add tassels, fringe, studs, flags. Go on that poker run, drive 40 miles for lunch Saturday, go to that biker rally. Wash it, wax it. STOP WORRYING and have a good time!

 

[plleonard]

how do you change the oil pump on a 103 harley Triglide 2011

 

[msocko3]

how do you change the oil pump on a 103 harley Triglide 2011

The same way as on all the Twin Cam engines, you have to remove the cam plate along with a bunch of other stuff. Mr. Wizard has some good pictures in this thread http://www.triketalk.com/forum/harley-trikes/8282-how-change-cams-2007-up-harley.html

 

[Oldmsocko]

What everyone has to remember is that your 2009, 10, 11, or 2012 Harley Tri-Glide FEELS and RUNS hotter than your old bike because it is 103 cdi, not 96, or 88 inches. ALL 2009 and above Turing bikes have a catalytic converter in the head pipe because YOUR Federal Government mandated it.

As a point of interest the 2009 TG does not have cats in the head pipe unless it is a California trike.

 

[eagle1]

'09 t/g; airtemp outside 76 degrees, 4 lane hwy. went 16 mi on first leg of trip. at about 10 miles oil temp went up to 230. normal went into walmart for 20 min. and on return trip to home about 5 miles oil temp was at 230 degrees (normal.) at 12 miles oil temp went down to just above 220 but at 15 1/2 miles (i was about 2 blocks from my house oil temp went to 240 degrees. got home and as usual i have a hi- output fan where i park my bike in garage. so i turned it on to cool the motor.
earlier in the day i had ordered a revolution performance EFI (I like there' s because
once you set it up. your done period. never any more adjustmenys. so no more rideing
till the efi is installed & we will see what the difference is. i just replaced the plugs and the old ones were normal. 18k. on trikeand had changed the oil with red line 20x60.
this is exactly why i use the red line 20x60 motorcycle oil, may not ever need the extra wt. oil vs. other aftermarket oils( they only have 20x50) wt. oil.

 

[Phu Cat]

I'm brand new to this forum, planning to buy a 'geezer glide' after the first of the year. (Presently riding a '98 Ultra.) Previously I put 15 years in Gulf Oil"s Cincinnati refinery until we were sold out and shut down. Had a chance to learn much about gasoline and oil along the way.

I was worried about oil temp too, but came to realize as long as there's oil circulating you're OK. It takes a surprisingly small amount of oil to lubricate sliding parts but it absolutely must be there. As long as your engine is running, it's circulating oil due to the oil pump being a positive displacement type. However, you can set your idle so low the top end won't be lubricated properly.

It takes 160 degrees F for your oil to start to being dehydrated, so yiou really don't want your oil to be too cool. Getting the moisture (that's a byproduct of combustion) out of the oil is the best thing you can do for your engine's longevity. In other words, just like a car, short trips are bad news.

Phu Cat

 

[Gorilla]

welcome aboard glad you joined us. Look at joining our free Trike Owners International riding association elsewhere on the forum.

 

[eagle1]

TIPS: when doing the rough install on the oil temp gage,'09 t/g
1. put a light coat of RTV on your left hand (fingerprint area). this will hold the washers etc in place as you reach into the gage area to put the washer on the stud..
2. do the one nearest you but leave it slightly loose. this will allow you to rotate the gage so you can put the other nust & bolts on.
3. rotate the gage so that it is straight up. use a 2foot 1/4 " extension with a universal
on the end; and a 3/8" 1/4" socket.(typically).
4. if you have to reach into the area to install the final nuts;as before put skim coat of RTV on left hand (fingerprint area) reach in and hold the nuton the threaded stud;
then trach in with your right hand index finger (longest one) and as you hold the nut,
spin the nut with your right hand clockwise. this will start the nut.
5.it also will help if you go to the hardware store and purchase 4 nylon locknuts;
as they are thicker and easier to work with. the thin brass nuts go onthe inside and the
nylon nuts go on last.
6.you will also need 18 gage wire, along with 3 eyelit terminals; maybe 3 male .
the instructions call them blase terminals. ane 3 female terminals. All this doesn't come with the gage kit.
as far a where to hook up th wires to. i used the existing orange wire for the oil gage lighting. (i made a wire 4" long with a blade terminal on one end and a female end on the other. this allowes me to hook the wire into the existing wireing harness.
7. the only time i had to strip a harness wire was on the cigarette (orange) power wire. to hook up and give power to the (i) IGN side of the gages terminal.
8. i also went to RADIO-SHACK and purchased the silver oxide based grease.$10.00
9. when you take out the head bolt Ft head nearest the horn. it is easier if you have a 9/16 drop-down wrench. but not necessary. USE a piece of emery cloth to roughen up the cylinderhead contact area on the brace for the cylinderhead temperature sensor. and the bolts washer. I also used the gringers wire brush for this.
hope this helps.i hope it works, and lastly other guys may have a better info as to where to hook up the wireing. lb
this will ensure good conductivity along with the grease.
some guys say its easier when you remove the radio.also i installed a revolution performance EFI on mine. instructions say put under the lt. side cover, but there's more room under the rt. side cover. lb