Mobil 1 15w50

[usmc68]

I hope it is OK to ask about a product. Does anyone use Mobil 1 15w50 as there motor oil ?
I know Mobil 1 makes a v-twin oil in 20w 50 but it is a lot higher than the 15w50 and I can't see that much difference except price.

 

[John Luciano]

Should work fine normally the 15/50 is for colder climates. Since you will not be starting the motorcycle in below freezing temp. The 1st number is really meaningless. The 50 is the lubrication number at normal operating temp.
10w 40 had a bad reputation. Seems the additive used the make the oil to go from 10 to 40 was causing a lot of carbon sticky buildup. That is what I was told by the Bearing engineers in the test lab in the bearing plant I worked in for 38 years. We'll that is my story and I am sticking to it
I use 10w 30

 

[sandrooney]

Pay the extra for the V-Twin . Changing the oil is one of the cheapest things you will ever do. A days ride cost more than an oil change.

 

[rhino 2]

Air cooled engines will do better with 20w 50..ThumbUp

 

[Lizard]

Mobil 1 changed their formulation a while back on their standard oils. I believe they lowered the zinc level and IIRC the gallon jugs that used to be gold cap, aren't anymore, and are no longer rated for diesel engines. If you read the manual, it states any oil that is diesel rated can be used (of the correct viscosity). I don't think the standard Mobil 1 fits that anymore, while the V-Twin certainly does.

 

[FLTR2008TRIKE]

You want to use a engine oil with a high concentration of both zinc & phosphorus additives.

VTwin 20W50 Mobil1 has the highest amount added. The 15w50 is lower. The zddp (zinc) & phosphorus additives higher in amount help with reducing thermal breakdown of the oil under high heat stress.

Due to the nature of our engines being air cooled and the hot burn of un leaded fuel your best to get a SJ rated engine oil.

 

[DK Custom Products]

 

[msocko3]

I wouldn't run the 15w50 in a Trike, I used to run it in my 2 wheel Ultra Classic when it was a 95" engine. Since building the 120 I sold all the jugs I had stock piled and moved to Amsoil 20w/50, like others have said, Mobile 1 V-Twin would be my choice from the 2 Mobile oils.

 

[usmc68]

Thanks for the knowledge. I will probably stay with Amsoil 20w50 but I may try Mobil 1 v-twin to see if it preforms as well as Amsoil .I read on one of the forums someone was using the Mobil 15w50 that is why I asked for Info now I know to stay away from 15w50
Thanks for responding

 

[GARYD]

I wouldn't run the 15w50 in a Trike, I used to run it in my 2 wheel Ultra Classic when it was a 95" engine. Since building the 120 I sold all the jugs I had stock piled and moved to Amsoil 20w/50, like others have said, Mobile 1 V-Twin would be my choice from the 2 Mobile oils.

:Agree:

To be honest, any name brand 20-50 syn oil will be fine as long as you change it at the correct interval-and use a new filter.
If you change every 3K miles stay with dino oil - it's cheaper, but in the long run syn is cheaper. Syn oil is made to go 5K+ miles. ThumbUp

 

[geezerglide11441]

Thanks for the knowledge. I will probably stay with Amsoil 20w50 but I may try Mobil 1 v-twin to see if it preforms as well as Amsoil .I read on one of the forums someone was using the Mobil 15w50 that is why I asked for Info now I know to stay away from 15w50
Thanks for responding

What particular change are you expecting to see/experience between the Mobil1 and the Amsoil?? Both oil are great products and I seriously doubt you will be able to experience any difference!

Roger

 

[usmc68]

What particular change are you expecting to see/experience between the Mobil1 and the Amsoil?? Both oil are great products and I seriously doubt you will be able to experience any difference!

Roger

Hopefully I won't be able to tell any difference. The Mobil 1 is just any Wal-Mart away while Amsoil is hard to find out on the road . I'm plan to use the Mobil 1 V-Twin 20w 50 in the engine and primary and mobil 1 75w140 syn. in the transmission . Will V-Twin 20w50 be ok for primary??

 

[FLTR2008TRIKE]

Hopefully I won't be able to tell any difference. The Mobil 1 is just any Wal-Mart away while Amsoil is hard to find out on the road . I'm plan to use the Mobil 1 V-Twin 20w 50 in the engine and primary and mobil 1 75w140 syn. in the transmission . Will V-Twin 20w50 be ok for primary??

Any Dino 10w40 or Dino 20w50 is better. The 20W50 Mobil1 Synthetic oil isn't wet clutch rated. Just change the primary with each engine oil change and you will be good.

 

[GARYD]

Hopefully I won't be able to tell any difference. The Mobil 1 is just any Wal-Mart away while Amsoil is hard to find out on the road . I'm plan to use the Mobil 1 V-Twin 20w 50 in the engine and primary and mobil 1 75w140 syn. in the transmission . Will V-Twin 20w50 be ok for primary??

If you need oil while out on the road, you can throw in a quart of any 20-50 syn oil and not worry one bit. I always carry a quart of oil on all my trips. Never had to use it though. I buy my oil by the case (cheaper) and the warehouse is just down the street from my shop so I don't have to pay shipping, plus I get a small stipend back at the end of the month.

I also agree that you probably won't notice any significant change between the brands of same viscosity oils. ThumbUp

 

[usmc68]

Any Dino 10w40 or Dino 20w50 is better. The 20W50 Mobil1 Synthetic oil isn't wet clutch rated. Just change the primary with each engine oil change and you will be good.

so are you saying it is OK to run Mobil1 V-Twin 20w50 in the primary??

 

[geezerglide11441]

so are you saying it is OK to run Mobil1 V-Twin 20w50 in the primary??

A significant contingent of riders/bikers on another forum I use to frequent when I was riding my 2008 Ultra (w/120r crate motor) found that the H-D Dino Primary Oil was best to use in the primary. This was determined due to less fretting of the compensator. The various oils tried was the Redline, Amsoil, Syn3, etc.. It appeared the synthetics did not do a good job lubricating the Compensator.

However, this year, H-D came out with a new compensator that has a kinda unique oiling system that appears to work!! Although I did install the new compensator in my Trike a few months ago, school is still out regarding the success of the new design. However, I personally will stick with the H-D Dino Primary oil at this time!!

Roger

 

[MontgomeryLittle]

so are you saying it is OK to run Mobil1 V-Twin 20w50 in the primary??

Here is a link from Mobil on the subject: http://www.mobiloil.com/USA-English/MotorOil/Car_Care/AskMobil/Harley_Davidson_Primary_Drive.aspx

I use Mobil, mainly because of the wally world availability and we use their products at work. I did not ask the question above but I run the 10w40 in my 2008 FLHTP and the wife's 2011 Tri Glide primary. And a Mobil Syn 75 to 125 (I think thats the weight) gear oil, it quiets down the gear noise. Mobil1 V Twin 20w50 in the engine.

I don't mind running three oils, they do three different things. But for convenience the 20w50 Mobil1 is good in all three holes. And I think if you really dig on their web site the 20w50 is all they will recommend for v twins in any hole. I was surprised to find the above statement from them unless they have since backed off that claim.

Keep in mind your primary capacity. The dealer has done it to the Tri Glide as well as myself. It needs 38 Oz. not 32. 32 made it hard to get in gear I drained and refilled the tranny a few times before I referenced the manual and found the mistake. 38 in the primary made it shift like butter when the 32 would not. I was thinking it was a tranny oil issue. It was the Primary being low. I have a range of year model Harleys and sometimes specs run together, at least in my mind. Always read your manual.

 

[usmc68]

Here is a link from Mobil on the subject: http://www.mobiloil.com/USA-English/MotorOil/Car_Care/AskMobil/Harley_Davidson_Primary_Drive.aspx

I use Mobil, mainly because of the wally world availability and we use their products at work. I did not ask the question above but I run the 10w40 in my 2008 FLHTP and the wife's 2011 Tri Glide primary. And a Mobil Syn 75 to 125 (I think thats the weight) gear oil, it quiets down the gear noise. Mobil1 V Twin 20w50 in the engine.

I don't mind running three oils, they do three different things. But for convenience the 20w50 Mobil1 is good in all three holes. And I think if you really dig on their web site the 20w50 is all they will recommend for v twins in any hole. I was surprised to find the above statement from them unless they have since backed off that claim.

Keep in mind your primary capacity. The dealer has done it to the Tri Glide as well as myself. It needs 38 Oz. not 32. 32 made it hard to get in gear I drained and refilled the tranny a few times before I referenced the manual and found the mistake. 38 in the primary made it shift like butter when the 32 would not. I was thinking it was a tranny oil issue. It was the Primary being low. I have a range of year model Harleys and sometimes specs run together, at least in my mind. Always read your manual.

Thanks for the link . Since I already have enough V-Twin 20w 50 to do engine and primary I'm going to put it in the primary also. I will try the 10 w40 next time I do the primary . I was in Your Town Murfreesboro a couple of weeks ago heading to Smokie Mts.. Yesterday I got a Letter from the city of Murfreesboro Tn. with a pic of the rear of my trike and They wanted $50.00 for it IT"S not that good a pic---! I don't think it's worth that amount But I think I'll purchase it because they said it would go up in value if I don't take their Now. (Stinking left turn red lights and being tailgunner of 6 bikes didn't work ) I hope that's the only pic they took!!!

 

[FLTR2008TRIKE]

so are you saying it is OK to run Mobil1 V-Twin 20w50 in the primary??

It's not recommended. The 20w50 is no longer JASO-MA rated for wet clutch applications as of 2012. Mobil1 4T 10w40 is rated for wet clutch applications and can be used in your primary

 

[MontgomeryLittle]

Thanks for the link . Since I already have enough V-Twin 20w 50 to do engine and primary I'm going to put it in the primary also. I will try the 10 w40 next time I do the primary . I was in Your Town Murfreesboro a couple of weeks ago heading to Smokie Mts.. Yesterday I got a Letter from the city of Murfreesboro Tn. with a pic of the rear of my trike and They wanted $50.00 for it IT"S not that good a pic---! I don't think it's worth that amount But I think I'll purchase it because they said it would go up in value if I don't take their Now. (Stinking left turn red lights and being tailgunner of 6 bikes didn't work ) I hope that's the only pic they took!!!

Damn, you got caught by one of the photo booth cameras. Only 3 or 4 around. I've been lucky I guess. Would I be correct to say that it was a photo of your license plate? Was it 231 or 41? Also I'd argue it for the fact it's legal to go thrue red lights here,(stop and go) because the bikes don't trip the lights. Not to mention the fact you were running shotgun.

 

[usmc68]

Damn, you got caught by one of the photo booth cameras. Only 3 or 4 around. I've been lucky I guess. Would I be correct to say that it was a photo of your license plate? Was it 231 or 41? Also I'd argue it for the fact it's legal to go thrue red lights here,(stop and go) because the bikes don't trip the lights. Not to mention the fact you were running shotgun.

I'm not sure of the location It took a closeup of my plate I went to the site and viewed the tape. I really couldn't tell If the light was red as I turned. Done sent payment If you contest it and lose it costs more and they take points off your license No more Tailgunning for a while.

 

[msocko3]

A significant contingent of riders/bikers on another forum I use to frequent when I was riding my 2008 Ultra (w/120r crate motor) found that the H-D Dino Primary Oil was best to use in the primary. This was determined due to less fretting of the compensator. The various oils tried was the Redline, Amsoil, Syn3, etc.. It appeared the synthetics did not do a good job lubricating the Compensator.

However, this year, H-D came out with a new compensator that has a kinda unique oiling system that appears to work!! Although I did install the new compensator in my Trike a few months ago, school is still out regarding the success of the new design. However, I personally will stick with the H-D Dino Primary oil at this time!!

Roger

Formula+ is their Dyno oil for the primary and transmission, I don't use it in the transmission. It will be interesting to see if the new compensator design actually works.

 

[FLTR2008TRIKE]

Formula+ is their Dyno oil for the primary and transmission, I don't use it in the transmission. It will be interesting to see if the new compensator design actually works.

I'm waiting on my replacement Compensator right now. I have the GMR Compensaver oiling tray and GMR disk made from PEEK to replace the stock wafer disk with the needle bearing.

I have been waiting 2weeks for the thing to come in so I can replace the older SE comp.

 

[usmc68]

After reading a lot of info I finally went with Mobil 1 20w50 syn. in the engine, Mobil1 75w140 syn. in the transmission and Valvoline 10w40 4/ stroke oil in the primary. Adjusted clutch at the clutch pack and lever. Shift is a lot smoother, neutral easy to find, less clunking. Hope I'm done for a while New Power commander V ,all new different fluids at every hole, everything adjusted, seems like a different Bike epper:

Thanks to All for the Info

 

[msocko3]

I'm waiting on my replacement Compensator right now. I have the GMR Compensaver oiling tray and GMR disk made from PEEK to replace the stock wafer disk with the needle bearing.

I have been waiting 2weeks for the thing to come in so I can replace the older SE comp.

It'll be interesting to see how well everything holds up once you start piling on the miles.

 

[geezerglide11441]

Formula+ is their Dyno oil for the primary and transmission, I don't use it in the transmission. It will be interesting to see if the new compensator design actually works.

Agree, only use Formula + in the primary and Redline Heavy Duty in the Transmission!

Works well for me!!

Roger

 

[trikermutha]

I'm waiting on my replacement Compensator right now. I have the GMR Compensaver oiling tray and GMR disk made from PEEK to replace the stock wafer disk with the needle bearing.

I have been waiting 2weeks for the thing to come in so I can replace the older SE comp.

I like to see that GMR disk. The oiling tray looks interesting..

 

[FLTR2008TRIKE]

I like to see that GMR disk. The oiling tray looks interesting..

Here is the washer that replaces the wafer bearing. Im still waiting on my new SE Comp to install the GMR items. Another guy who also was given one to evaluate as well has reported his Comp no longer makes any kind of chattering noise.

After washer install video >>

 

[trikermutha]

Here is the washer that replaces the wafer bearing. Im still waiting on my new SE Comp to install the GMR items. Another guy who also was given one to evaluate as well has reported his Comp no longer makes any kind of chattering noise.

After washer install video >>

I have to open mine up again..The new SE comp is making a lot of noise..Have to check out this new bearing/oiling system better..

Thinking also going with the BDL comp..

 

[FLTR2008TRIKE]

The BDL setup isn't something I would recommend. The amount of torque that would be transmitted to the transmission main shaft with no buffer could damage the trans. Not saying it will but just a possibility without some shock cushion built in like the compensator provides.