Lehman Conversion Lifted

[1852cc]

My low slung Lehman is no longer a pipe dragger!

When I saw the thread about lifting a Tri-Glide, told a friend and he bought a set of bracket from Dennis, I installed the for him, that is when I realized, this can be done to the Lehman conversion, the same way.
There is actually only one difference between the Tri-Glide and a Lehman conversion, that is the z-pipe which allows the header to connect to the muffler on the air cleaner side of the trikes. There is alot more clearance on a Tri-Glide. I know I tried to put the brackets on my Lehman, no go! That is when Dennis and I started talking about what was needed to lift a Lehman conversion.
With my information Dennis built up a set to lift the Lehman, and works great, installed on Monday, rode the devil out of it on Tuesday!

Love the change, 1.25 inches higher at the bottom of the pipe, and 1.25 inches higher at the bottom of the fender measured from ground, throuhg axle center to bottom edge of fender.

Improved ride and stability, plus no more dragging the pipes going in and out of my drive way. The stability comes from a little more weight transferred to the front tire, very cool!
So Lehman owners don't have to be dragging their tails around anymore!

If you have any question about my lifted Lehman conversion feel free to ask me!
Mike

 

[1550vt]

Or....install some longer shocks, which may be more expensive, but that will also work. You can generally find some pretty good deals on coil-over shocks in such places as e-bay....etc. The older kits that used the stock HD Dresser shocks did not have all that much travel anyway. Keeping the shocks you have and adding a bracket to alter the mounting location is likely the cheaper way to go. But, you have to be a little careful with it. Raising the frame moves the swing-arm closer to the top of the oil pan. Raising it far enough to cause a problem may be a stretch....just something to be aware of.

 

[1852cc]

That is interesting information!! It is close to the top of the pan, for sure!
I don't see it going down and hitting the pan, though as the gap there gets bigger as weight is add to the unit like me setting on it even with me and the wife, and sure would be more in traveling mode, all loaded down.
It is certianly something to consider, thanks for that in put!

Ok I have a question then on the shock idea, mine is 2009 model conversion, so not that old, but does use the original stock shocks.
Do you know if the tri-glide shock is longer or different?
Do have a shock sugestion?
Thank for the input
Mike

 

[1550vt]

As long as you don't hit a BIG bump that causes the rear-end to come off the ground and the shocks push the rear axle housing down far enough and fast enough before the rear wheels hit the pavement....not to worry. I don't think that would happen very often, but I do make a suggestion. Jack the rear end up by the frame members (not the axle housing) and lift the wheels and all off the ground....then check the oil pan clearance between it and the swing-arm. This would be a "worst-case" scenario. I really do not think that lifting it an inch-or-so will cause any concern. It's just that some folks may get the idea they can lift it higher. As the swing-arm moves up and down it "approaches" the rear of the pan. Catch a rock or some other debris in that opening and you will have a cracked tranny housing. I know it sounds far-fetched, but if you look at it...you will see what I mean.

I agree...if you have the trike well loaded with you and your stuff (to include a passenger at times), the rear suspension will be loaded enough to prevent this from happening.

The shocks you have on there could depend on what the installer did, or the Lehman kit instructions specified. I do not think Lehman ships replacement shocks with their kits (did not with mine), so I am betting you have stock 2-wheeler shocks on there.
Nor can I be specific on the shocks installed on the TG.

The rear axle assembly cannot fall any further down than a totally relaxed shock will let it fall. I'd just jack mine up by the frame and check the clearance between the swing-arm and the top of the tranny case with the wheels off the ground. That would be worst case.

 

[1852cc]

They re-used the stock Road Glide shocks, they are not very good, but just don't see 1600 dollars for the Legend shocks!
Arnott are over 700 dollars, well I guess the search will continue.
Thanks
Mike

 

[1550vt]

Yep...the stock Dresser shocks makes the ride a bit stiff, but the trike will handle better in the hills and curves. I use a combination of tire pressure and shock air pressure depending on where I am riding. A little soft on the Interstates and very tight in the mountains. Actually...the very best handling trike would be one with no shocks at all and 35 pounds of air in the tires. It would almost take a curve with a crotch-rocket if you could hang-on:yes:.

The softer shocks you install...the mushier the ride will be. I will take a stiff-riding trike any day over one that feels as if is about to roll-over in a sharp curve. I think it needs to be as low to the ground as possible. Raising the rear also raises the center-of-gravity, so it's all a dance you do to make it ride like you want to.

 

[1852cc]

Yep yep, all you said I understand. This trike handles just fine the way it is now! With the small lift it is much better in the curves in these mountains here, the front end feels planted more than before, no skating feeling! The ride it's self has always been fine for me and the wife. So I guess the question is why the hell am I messing with it, good question huh!
I run 23 lbs of air in rear tires, and never more than 35lbs in shocks, and that is loaded down for a trip 2 up.
The only thing I really wanted was ground clearance, my 4 inch mufflers were just short of 4.50 inches from the ground.

The thing I think I will try now is heavier oil in the shocks, and see if I can slow the top out condition down some.

If I could find the proper shock, I would not miss the air assist shocks at all.

Thank for your input, 2 heads are always better than one.
Mike

 

[1550vt]

I COMPLETELY understand the desire to jack it up a bit. My muffins have a few scrapes on the ends, but luckily for me they are Vance & Hines true duals with replaceable end-caps.

Lifting the body a bit would also make wheel removal much easier as well. Makes a lot of since. I bet if you keep your eyes peeled, you could pick-up a set of coil-overs, even off a Metric dresser that would work for a pretty good price off e-bay. If a rider simply replaced the stock shocks with some an inch longer, the lift could be made with the shocks and no bracket would be required.