Independent Axles??

[520fd]

I had a 2011 Harley Tri-glide a while back. Didn't care for the solid axle. I was wondering if any gifted mechanic out there has come up with a kit that would change out the solid axle for an independent axle. I was hoping Harley would listen to their customers and put an independent axle in there trike. Any info would help. Thanks.

 

[Sloufoot]

I had a 2011 Harley Tri-glide a while back. Didn't care for the solid axle. I was wondering if any gifted mechanic out there has come up with a kit that would change out the solid axle for an independent axle. I was hoping Harley would listen to their customers and put an independent axle in there trike. Any info would help. Thanks.

Do a bit of searching with the conversion people online. I do remember seeing a kit to do a change to IRS. Can't remember who the mfg was.

The solid axle does give some better support in cornering, but lacks a bit in the soft ride.

The solid rear tends to be narrower than the IRS also. With less operating parts there is less cost for upkeep .

Also less chance of parts going bad in the middle of nowhere .

Each side has their own advantages & dis-advantages !pepper

 

[SEAlaskan]

I had a 2011 Harley Tri-glide a while back. Didn't care for the solid axle. I was wondering if any gifted mechanic out there has come up with a kit that would change out the solid axle for an independent axle. I was hoping Harley would listen to their customers and put an independent axle in there trike. Any info would help. Thanks.

DFT makes a independent axle kit for the Tri-Glide. See their ad on the right of this page.
Butch

 

[woodmnctry]

Suggest you ride one b4 you jump totally into that --- you might not like the cornering aspect (sway) although DFT claims they add a sway bar -- no experience on that. Did have another brand that had independent suspension that was not fun on high speed curves --- sold that sucker --- quickly.

 

[captdanwh]

I agree that you should ride one before you change it out as i don't like them and they are not all they are made out to be. each bike handles differently and just because you like the ride of your friends trike does not mean yours is going to ride the same even if you set it up exactly the same.

 

[Lakeman]

I have the solid axle and love it, really handles well.

 

[Sloufoot]

I talked to DFT about their conversion, & it sounds like a good deal. At least from them. I would have to try one out, or at least talk to someone that has one before spending that much just to have IRS.

They have a 10.5" rear rotor on the brakes, but use the same caliper from the original Tri Glide. Harley uses a 9" rotor.

They are not using the air shocks. This would at least give you more support so it wouldn't take from one shock & add to the other side as I bet some of you have experienced. If you haven't just take your body weight & throw it from one side to the other a couple times. As you compress the one side, it takes the air from that side & airs up the light side. The only way to avoid this is to separate the air lines to the shocks. With the coil over shocks used by DFT, the sides are truly independent.

You retain your original wheels also.

The whole thing goes back under your Harley body.

I was thinking about using their bracket for the brake caliper & their brake rotor to get better brakes on the Tri, but they want $650 for the set-up in case anyone is interested on doing that.

It would be a bolt in conversion.

 

[tfdeputydawg]

Not a TriGlide owner but, I did an almost 4 year "study" of "bikes-n-trikes(different brand bikes w/different brand conversions) before settling on the combo right for me.
If you are into curves and running through them fairly "hot", then by all means a SA conversion does it best.
If you are into enjoying a smooth "Cadillac" ride w/a few curves thrown in once-in-a-while then a IRS conversion w/extended wheel base is absolutely the answer. Unfortunately, that is not avail for a TriGlide.
In between those 2 examples is the IRS system on a TriGlide. Maybe the best of both worlds!
BTW, I have never experience excessive "body roll" on any of the IRS trikes I've ridden! Most did not have any anti-sway devices on them

 

[John Luciano]

I Ride a DFT on a 1997 Goldwing. I have entered a full circle freeway ramp at 20 over the limit with no fear. I have done hair pin curves at over the posted speed limit. Even with the copilot on back there is not a whimper from her. Un less u are more of a maniac than I am. The ride is worth the slight if any body roll. Experience is the issue. I have seen motorcycle patrol men ride Full Dressed Harley's like sport bikes. After 65,000 miles I have not had to do any repairs on mine. I have never lifted a wheel.

I admit I have never ridden it over 105 MPH so if that is your bag than maybe I miss spoke.

 

[Beorn of Ga]

Are sure you want to go to independent axles? I had a trike with this setup. When you corner, the entire frame, engine, trany assembly, + you, leans to the outside of the corner. This makes controlling the trike more difficult than a ridged axle setup. If you have a passenger, they probably will not be positioned to counter lean when you start into a corner and will correct as you get into the corner. You will try to compensate with what will be an over correction. Please find an independent axle trike and try it out before continuing.

 

[Lakeman]

Think of it as a sports car v family sedan.

 

[GARYD]

I rode both at a dealer for "Trike Days" a few years back before I bought my trike. The only thing that was better on an IRS was the washboard section of one of the roads. On a normal road(which is where I ride 99% of the time) I saw no difference at all......and for the extream extra $$$$$ for IRS, I quickly decided it really wasn't worth it. I just do my best not to ride and any roads that an IRS is good on. Simple. Which leaves me with thousands of $$$ to spend on more important things.....air seat, better shocks, engine upgrades, heated clothing so you can ride all year, etc.

The best advice is what people have already given you - test ride over all types of road surfaces before you buy. It is a major expendature, make sure you really need/want it.

 

[DK Custom Products]

I talked to DFT about their conversion, & it sounds like a good deal. At least from them. I would have to try one out, or at least talk to someone that has one before spending that much just to have IRS.
They have a 10.5" rear rotor on the brakes, but use the same caliper from the original Tri Glide. Harley uses a 9" rotor.
They are not using the air shocks. This would at least give you more support so it wouldn't take from one shock & add to the other side as I bet some of you have experienced. If you haven't just take your body weight & throw it from one side to the other a couple times. As you compress the one side, it takes the air from that side & airs up the light side. The only way to avoid this is to separate the air lines to the shocks. With the coil over shocks used by DFT, the sides are truly independent.
You retain your original wheels also. The whole thing goes back under your Harley body.
I was thinking about using their bracket for the brake caliper & their brake rotor to get better brakes on the Tri, but they want $650 for the set-up in case anyone is interested on doing that. It would be a bolt in conversion.

Sorry to hijack the thread...Sloufoot, have you tried this...separating the lines? If so, did it make a significant difference?

Kevin

 

[Sloufoot]

Sorry to hijack the thread...Sloufoot, have you tried this...separating the lines? If so, did it make a significant difference?

Kevin

No I haven't done that Kevin. The problem isn't enough to bother with as I don't really get to the point of lifting a wheel. The air transfer just doesn't let the light side stay of any use as far as weight of the body on the light side when the heavy side gets the weight put on it if you follow what I mean.
I can throw my body weight from one side to the other & really feel the suspension lift on the light side more than the heavy side goes down.
Of course when in a turn I put as much weight on the low side of the curve so it doesn't bother much. But it would be a real PIA to try to keep the split shocks even under normal use. Mainly because of the low volume of air.
Also I don't really think you can gain that much unless you are high profile or something with a lot of the weight high on the trike.
A lot of bother for not much in return.
DFT said that was one reason they stayed with the adjustable coil over in their set-up. Takes a some of the lean out of the IRS suspension.