Heat From Trike
Can anybody tell me how to get some of heat off my exhaust Thank You:Trike1:
Can anybody tell me how to get some of heat off my exhaust Thank You:Trike1:
Heater From Trike
- Thread starter hotsyman
- Start date
Re: Heat From Trike
If you mean the heat on your right foot/ankle, The cat has to be removed.
If you mean the heat on your right foot/ankle, The cat has to be removed.
- Thread starter
- #3
That is correct right foot/ankle
Re: Heat From Trike
You could start by reading this thread http://www.triketalk.com/forum/harley-trikes-6/tg-modifications-abc-s-removing-rider-heat-b-c-4559/, plus there are more threads if you do a little searching.
You could start by reading this thread http://www.triketalk.com/forum/harley-trikes-6/tg-modifications-abc-s-removing-rider-heat-b-c-4559/, plus there are more threads if you do a little searching.
Hman, I put some Vance&Hines head pipes on my 103" trike eliminating the cat and still got a lot of heat off the rear exhaust pipe. (Not to mention the exhaust sounded real raspy thru the stock mufflers.)
I read somewhere that a guy got good results from wrapping the exhaust pipes near his feet with the stuff wood burning furnaces use to seal the access doors on those stoves.
Have been meaning to try it on our trike. The only down side I can see (other that being able to see it under the heat shields), is it's probably gonna make your exhaust pipes rust in that area.
Phu Cat
I read somewhere that a guy got good results from wrapping the exhaust pipes near his feet with the stuff wood burning furnaces use to seal the access doors on those stoves.
Have been meaning to try it on our trike. The only down side I can see (other that being able to see it under the heat shields), is it's probably gonna make your exhaust pipes rust in that area.
Phu Cat
If you put a stick in the right side muffler, It will go in the full length of the muffler, Do the same with the left and you'll notice it will only go in a few inches' there's a restrictor in it so most of the exhaust gos out the right side.
A long drill bit, drilled into the left muffler opening will eliminate the raspy sound.
Gee, you are the 735 person to talk about the HORRIBLE, SEARING, FLAMES shooting off the exhaust. Exhaust gas is about 1400*, cat in or out. Take the cat out and the new mufflers will have some kind of restriction in it just a foot farther down the pipe. You can spend literally thousands of dollars for new head pipes, new mufflers, fuel management computers, and exhaust gas will still be over 1200* I've been told that after you spend a couple of grand the bike sure feels cooler :laugh::laugh::AGGHH:
OR
You can move your foot. A couple of inches makes one hell of a difference.
OR
You can move your foot. A couple of inches makes one hell of a difference.
There are as many opinions as are bikes and trikes out there.
While some say my stock set up has always been fine you will see that others are more sensitive to the heat or their set up is just simply too hot for them to enjoy the ride. I think you will find the majority need assistance to reduce the heat.
M3 states "I've yet to ride a stock Harley which wasn't in need of a mechanical intervention." Hands down this is a very true statement.
Even if you are comfortable with the heat you will find that modifying, even in some small, way will improve your stock configuration that will improve your riding pleasure.
Most will target the cat device on the Harley 2010 and up motors. This is a great place to start and will certainly reduce some heat from your right leg but simply modifying the head pipe alone will not reduce the motor temps to where they can be. That is where some sort of tuning device comes in. If you choose the correct tuning device then you will not only decrease motor heat you will improve motor efficiencies. To me, this is the real place to start.
HD leaves 30% of your tune on the factory floor. A good tuning device will improve your motor efficiency by another 25% minimum. To get all you can out of your motor without spending a grand or more simply change the head pipe to a good aftermarket with ceramic coating on the outside and get a tuning device that will not just change the AFR (Air Fuel Ratio) but one that will adjust the VE (Volumetric Efficiencies) to smooth your ECM calculations and make your motor happy.
Trust me, when you make your motor happy it will be your friend and not be so nasty to you on those hot riding days. Everyone has heard of the Harley Tax... well, this is simply a part of it.
Aftermarket ceramic head pipe is a couple hundred up to $500
Decent tuning device is a couple hundred up to $800 (autotune stuff)
While some say my stock set up has always been fine you will see that others are more sensitive to the heat or their set up is just simply too hot for them to enjoy the ride. I think you will find the majority need assistance to reduce the heat.
M3 states "I've yet to ride a stock Harley which wasn't in need of a mechanical intervention." Hands down this is a very true statement.
Even if you are comfortable with the heat you will find that modifying, even in some small, way will improve your stock configuration that will improve your riding pleasure.
Most will target the cat device on the Harley 2010 and up motors. This is a great place to start and will certainly reduce some heat from your right leg but simply modifying the head pipe alone will not reduce the motor temps to where they can be. That is where some sort of tuning device comes in. If you choose the correct tuning device then you will not only decrease motor heat you will improve motor efficiencies. To me, this is the real place to start.
HD leaves 30% of your tune on the factory floor. A good tuning device will improve your motor efficiency by another 25% minimum. To get all you can out of your motor without spending a grand or more simply change the head pipe to a good aftermarket with ceramic coating on the outside and get a tuning device that will not just change the AFR (Air Fuel Ratio) but one that will adjust the VE (Volumetric Efficiencies) to smooth your ECM calculations and make your motor happy.
Trust me, when you make your motor happy it will be your friend and not be so nasty to you on those hot riding days. Everyone has heard of the Harley Tax... well, this is simply a part of it.
Aftermarket ceramic head pipe is a couple hundred up to $500
Decent tuning device is a couple hundred up to $800 (autotune stuff)
First off my right food does NOT have a heat problem, my right thigh had a heat problem, so removing the cat, in my opinion, is useless and costly if you ever have to put it back on.
I may have a higher threshhold of pain when it comes to heat. All I have done is install a SE a/c, H-D Fatshotz slip ons and a SE race tuner. Non Harley stuff I did was a custom made crotch cooler and floorboard extenders. I did not remove the lowers(my speakers are in them). I spent 3 days in Washington DC at Rolling Thunder in 90* heat and "stop and stop and stop and go and stop" traffic for hours at a time. I did NOT have a heat problem.
As I mentioned on another thread, I would start with the least costly mods and work up to the more costly mods and see where your threshhold is. You may only need the crotch cooler and/or the floorboard extenders.
Thank god I didn't have to go to the header/cat mod - that's way more then I wanted to spend.
Good luck
I may have a higher threshhold of pain when it comes to heat. All I have done is install a SE a/c, H-D Fatshotz slip ons and a SE race tuner. Non Harley stuff I did was a custom made crotch cooler and floorboard extenders. I did not remove the lowers(my speakers are in them). I spent 3 days in Washington DC at Rolling Thunder in 90* heat and "stop and stop and stop and go and stop" traffic for hours at a time. I did NOT have a heat problem.
As I mentioned on another thread, I would start with the least costly mods and work up to the more costly mods and see where your threshhold is. You may only need the crotch cooler and/or the floorboard extenders.
Thank god I didn't have to go to the header/cat mod - that's way more then I wanted to spend.
Good luck
I also look at it as a hot engine is an unhappy engine, sure it starts, runs and goes down the road. It just doesn't have the pep, and all around smoothness as an engine that has been tuned properly. My 120 in my 06 Ultra is cool as a cucumber because it has been properly tuned, I have yet to see over 230 on the oil temp and my head temps haven't reached anything over 300 at the base of the spark plug.
The other week while I was fiddling around with the tune on my trike I was running V-Tunes in low 80 degree whether, I didn't see over 260 degrees at the front head temp sensor, the oil temp only reached 200 max. During the V-Tunes I was using the gears and hills to load the engine and hit the cells I was targeting. Some day when I get some spare time I'm going to work over the EGR tables some more because I have a couple areas that are still in need of smoothing, the 7" remote monitor sure makes hitting cells easy.
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