Hannigan Motorsports Information Desk

[Bones158]

New question. I have 3,000 miles on my HMS Venture. I noticed after a 500 mile ride (most highway) a few week back that the rear differential was leaking out of the overflow, so I cleaned everything up and rode 300 miles this weekend and a lot more oil from the vent line.

 

[Hannigan Motorsports]

Bones,
At this point, no cause for serious alarm but it does need to be discussed and explored further.
Please call in and ask for Jim Gooch our Chief Trike Tech.
We will go from there and I will post what follows here so all can stay in "the Loop" on this one.

 

[Hannigan Motorsports]

Bones & All,
Don't know if you have had the opportunity so far to call in and talk to Jim Gooch. I talked to him just now and he says he hadn't spoken with you as of yet.

However, we did discuss the overall situation you and others have experienced regarding Diff Overflow blow-out on Ventures. He said that usually occurs due to overfill. He says the Fluid Capacity of the Venture Diff is max 54 oz. He says easy way to check is the level should be right at 1 & 1/2" below the bottom edge of the Fill Hole Plug opening. Hopefully that answers and solves the situation for you and others. If not, please call the Main Phone Number 270-753-4256 and ask for Jim.

Please keep in mind that he (as well as 95% of Employees here) go to Lunch everyday between Noon and 1 p.m. Central time. Also, he may be otherwise engaged or disposed at that time so a Voice-mail message and return call may be necessary.

Hope this helps in identifying and implementing a solution for you.

 

[Bones158]

Thanks for the reply. I just called Jim and left a message before I read your return post. I figured this is what it was from.

Bob "Bones" Krauer

 

[Bones158]

Jim called me back in the same afternoon as my call in. He said it could be a few things, one being overfilled (which now comes filled from the factory) but we sort of ruled that out as I have about 3,000 miles on her and this has just started. These last few trips have been at 70 or more MPH and before that were slower twisty riding. He said to check the vent hose itself as it may be drawing a vacuum at that speed and siphoning some fluid out and make sure it has a angled cut on the end. So I'm going to shorten the hose up a little and cut the angle. Also check the orientation of the nipple on the differential. Again thanks for the quick reply back. I'll keep ya posted.

 

[captdanwh]

I am in the market for a Indian Trike to be built with a brand new 2014 Chief which will be purchased when i go ahead with this project. my questions to you are about your tour pack i heard you are either thinking about or already building. what i am looking for is a tour pack like my Harley has with the rear seat backrest attached which is comfortable for the passenger or something quite close. The tour pack with the rear seat backrest will be the turning point as to weather i am interested in going ahead or not as i am happy with my Harley trike with the Champion kit but am always looking for something new and exciting. Does your kit include a raked front end or is that a accessory if even available. Also living in the state of Florida heat is always a concern so i would want a oil cooler and a electric fan for the trike build, will that be a problem. next, is i need a reputable dealer who could do the complete job from start to finish and is very experienced with Indians and your kits. I am willing to travel to get the trike so could you give me a few dealers names?

 

[Hannigan Motorsports]

Jim called me back in the same afternoon as my call in. He said it could be a few things, one being overfilled (which now comes filled from the factory) but we sort of ruled that out as I have about 3,000 miles on her and this has just started. These last few trips have been at 70 or more MPH and before that were slower twisty riding. He said to check the vent hose itself as it may be drawing a vacuum at that speed and siphoning some fluid out and make sure it has a angled cut on the end. So I'm going to shorten the hose up a little and cut the angle. Also check the orientation of the nipple on the differential. Again thanks for the quick reply back. I'll keep ya posted.

Thanks much for the Update and your efforts to help bring about a Solution to the issue you and others may be experiencing.
Let us all know the results when you can and here's to a successful Mission ThumbUp





- - - Updated - - -

Posted by BigO in the

Re: Exclusive 1st Photos Indian Trike by Hannigan

Being 5' 2" a non triked indian is out of the question. See i am on
the other end of the spectrum. Went into the local indian dealership
3 days ago and asked for a quote on one being triked, 3 days later
still no call. Guess they have no interest in selling them. Nothing
worse than a dealership that has no follow through. I am STILL
trying to find out a price. What's a woman have to do to buy a
trike ?????? Hmmmmm seems they have indian trike rentals in
Miami so may be a good thing to go give one a try and see how it
actually drives and fits. i LOVE the looks of the indian - so classic.

​

Our Reply for future Reference for All

Big O,
Thanks for the questions and your interest in the HMS Indian Trike. I apologize for the difficulty you are experiencing in getting a Quote or other info from your local Indian Dealer. As of now, we are in the process of signing-up Indian Dealers into the Hannigan Network all over the Country. Being a relatively new Product, it is taking time to accomplish the goal of getting as many franchise Indian Dealers on-board, Trained, and familiar with the Trike in order to be able to properly advise prospective Clients as well as perform the conversions. We are working on it as diligently and expeditiously as possible. The closest Indian Dealer to Florida on-board at this time is Cherokee Indian/Trikes in Greer, SC. Should you wish to contact them, the contact there is Mr. Danny Patterson.

Of course, another Option for you would be to purchase the Indian from the Dealer of your choice wherever you choose and then seek the Services of one of our Outstanding Dealers to perform the Conversion.

I believe our own Bazooka, the Owner of this Awesome Forum could help greatly with your purchase should you desire to take that approach. He's in Southeast Alabama and is a long time a Hannigan Dealer.

As for the Pricing and Options, I will attempt to add that Info below. Any additional questions you may have please post them in the HMS Sponsor Section in the Information Desk Thread. Should you wish to discuss further, please give us a call at 270-753-4256 ext. 224



**** The HMS Reverse Option will be added very soon to the above. That Reverse Assembly will be $1399 with an Install charge of $195 ****​

 

[Hannigan Motorsports]

I am in the market for a Indian Trike to be built with a brand new 2014 Chief which will be purchased when i go ahead with this project. my questions to you are about your tour pack i heard you are either thinking about or already building. what i am looking for is a tour pack like my Harley has with the rear seat backrest attached which is comfortable for the passenger or something quite close. The tour pack with the rear seat backrest will be the turning point as to weather i am interested in going ahead or not as i am happy with my Harley trike with the Champion kit but am always looking for something new and exciting. Does your kit include a raked front end or is that a accessory if even available. Also living in the state of Florida heat is always a concern so i would want a oil cooler and a electric fan for the trike build, will that be a problem. next, is i need a reputable dealer who could do the complete job from start to finish and is very experienced with Indians and your kits. I am willing to travel to get the trike so could you give me a few dealers names?

and from the Re: Exclusive 1st Photos Indian Trike by Hannigan Thread in "Industry & Sponsor News"

Alright, next question. does anyone out there know if and when Hannigan will be coming out with a kit with a tour pack for a Indian motorcycle. I am really interested in getting started in the purchase of one but it has to have a tour package as i do a lot of traveling and want a comfortable seat for a passenger when i have one. Next question, as i live in Florida does anybody know of a real good experienced builder that could build it or do i deal with Hannigan themselves and I do not mind traveling within reason to get this started but have to feel confident that it will come out perfect especially the paint job. i spend the summers in Pa. so i could do it up there also. let me know

Good Morning Cap't,
Hopefully I answered some of your questions in the Response Post to BigO and your other Post in Sponsor News:

Hopefully the above will answer some of the questions you have as well. We have a Client who owned a GEN 1 GL1800 HMS Trike that wanted a new HMS Chieftain Trike who also happens to Winter in FLA and lives elsewhere (Norther Michigan to be exact). He just finalized trading his GEN 1 GL18 HMS Trike for a new Chieftain and is getting it triked by Cherokee the first week of July. He is very similar to you in that he has owned Harleys and a Boss-Hoss Trike as well so was concerned about heat too.

The rest of your questions and cocerns I will address in the Information Desk Thread with your Post there.
Understand and agree with your concerns on Fit, Finish, and Paint, All I can say about that is "Have you seen, felt, and experienced our Trikes?"..... Do so and ALL your concerns will vanish ThumbUp

I do greatly appreciate your patience, understanding, and tenacity in your approach toward an Indian and allowing us at HMS the opportunity to earn your business and your trust.

Regarding an Oil-Cooler or Fan, those are Bike Parts/Assemblies so you will need to check with the Indian Dealer (or After-Market Bike Parts Co.) on the necessity and availability of those.

The Tour Pack with integral Passenger Back-Rest: Completely understand your desire and need for that. We do not plan to produce such an "animal" as those are normally made by the Bike Manufacturers for the 2-wheeler which we then design & produce to be assimilated into the Trike when present. However, we have heard from Reliable Sources (VERY reliable) that the Indian Co. is indeed working on exactly that as we speak. Where they are on this Project and when they plan to have it completed and available, we do not know and have heard no specific time-frames other than estimates and guesses. When they do-We will react swiftly to incorporate that into the Trike. We have also heard that it will be a "quick-disconnect" type and be easily removed and replaced.
Given their history and results of the All New Indian and how fast Polaris got out a refined and exquisite Bike, this should be very simple for them and quite timely as well.

The Steer-Lite (increased Steering Angle modified Triple Trees) is an Option on the Indian Trike same as on all our Trike Conversions. We believe it to be a needed and desired Option/modification but understand that a few may not feel the same. Should you agree, we can provide you with a quality HMS Steer-Lite built to Hannigan Specs by an HMS dedicated Vendor Shop.

Thanks for hanging in there on this and with us. Let me know how the quest goes or if you have any more questions.

 

[msocko3]

Understand and agree with your concerns on Fit, Finish, and Paint, All I can say about that is "Have you seen, felt, and experienced our Trikes?"..... Do so and ALL your concerns will vanish ThumbUp

:Agree: One look is all it took for me, then a short little ride sealed the deal.

- - - Updated - - -

I am in the market for a Indian Trike to be built with a brand new 2014 Chief which will be purchased when i go ahead with this project.

If you haven't had the chance to see a Hannigan up close my dad and I will be in Wellsboro 7/7 - 7/9, I'll be riding my Hannigan Goldwing.

 

[FRR]

Question for Hannigan. I have a 2012 with a new Hannigan kit that I purchased in April. Do I still have the TPMS on my front tire? I read some threads where they claim no conversion company does, but I don't understand how installing a trike kit would necessarily negate the TPMS on the front wheeel.

As always, your responses are always appreciated.

 

[Hannigan Motorsports]

FRR,
Honda's OEM TPMS requires both the Front & Rear Sensors to be operational. Since the single Rear must be removed when converting to a Trike, the System and Circuit is compromised. Without disabling the System, it would initiate and send Error Codes and the like which are not desirable. Since you cannot retain the OEM System and no one wants to deal with false Error Codes and Warning Lights, the answer is to bypass the Honda OEM TPMS altogether.
Hope this answers your question and thanks much for posting it.

 

[FRR]

New question. I now have over 5600 miles on the Hannigan conversion that I purchased in April. The suspension on the conversion kit is an absolute dream. When you hit bumps you hardly even know they were there... However I have a question concerning the front forks. When I purchased the 2012 with the new Hannigan kit the installer indicated that progressive springs had been installed in the front forks. He suggested even though he did not say so specifically that it was necessary to install progressive springs with the conversion kit on a Hannigan. As a result the forks seem to have no springs all. It is very rough riding with the progress of springs in the front. On my previous trike that was not a Hannigan, it was recommended that I not install progressive springs since it was recommended that the ride would be too rough.

I guess my question is first of all is it necessary to have progressive springs when a Hannigan conversion kit is installed on a wing. Second does Hanagan have any suggestions on how to smooth out the ride other than reducing the tire pressure in the front tire thereby reducing tread life.

As always, your responses are always appreciated

 

[Hannigan Motorsports]

Another Good Post & Questions FRR ThumbUp

First, there are some of our (and other Manufacturer's) Clients who feel the Progressives are a bit "harsh" when they experience them shortly after Conversion. They are stiffer than One is used to compared to OEMs on a 2-Wheeler without a doubt and can be somewhat shocking (pardon the pun) and "strange" at the first. We do realize that "Ride" is quite subjective and there is no "Cookie-Cutter" Answer or 1-Size Fits All regarding Front Fork Internals. However, the vast majority seem to find the Progressive Upgrade to be preferable and/or superior to the OEM Internals post-Conversion. But again, not All. I can assure you that it will become less shocking and seem more normal to you as time and miles go by. If, for whatever reason it does not, then give us a call and we can discuss more Options with you at that time.

We do stand firmly behind and proven in our belief and contention that the standard inherent OEM Springs are not adequate for the GL1800 Unit once it is converted to a Trike. The Physics of the Unit are obviously changed and altered quite a lot (especially when the Triple Trees are changed) which render the OEMs lacking at best. As such, most of the Triking Community agree with our Position as well as are not satisfied or happy with the Unit's front Suspension when the OEM Springs are left in by a very large Margin. Given that, we strongly urge all to discuss and consider replacing/Upgrading those in conjunction with their Conversions. It makes Sense and is more efficient and less costly to have the replacement/Upgrade done at the same time as the Conversion. Therefore, we label them as "Required" in order to start the Conversation and the Consideration of the Issue prior to it occurring and more than likely adding more effort, time, and expense for the Owner & Dealer alike on down the road.

Should, after talking about it, understanding the need, and considering the Issue the Client chooses to stick with the OEM Springs; then of course and absolutely we honor that decision, they retain the OEMs, and we move forward and onward. After all, it IS the Client's choice and their wishes are final. We simply want to discuss this Situation and all Options openly, honestly, and thoroughly as we do with All facets and factors when properly advising our Owner-Partners before, during, and after the process. To do anything less is unacceptable.

Hope all this addresses your concerns and the "Requirement".....
If not, as always, let us know.
Thanks again for the Post and the opportunity once again to talk with you and all the Trike Talk Family.


FYI: We chose the Progressive Brand due to already procuring our Shocks for all our Products from them and the long-standing relationship we enjoy with them. This is not meant to be construed as believing they are superior to any other Brand of Upgrade or Manufacturer available. There are several on the Market today that will also properly address the Need of varying make-up and cost.
The Need is universal but the Solution is not.

 

[FRR]

Now that is a complete and thorough answer. Thank you for the response.

 

[msocko3]

Now that is a complete and thorough answer. Thank you for the response.

FWIW I think the Progressives mellow a little with miles, I have about 6,000 on mine and they don't seem quite as harsh. I was going to put the Traxion Dynamics AK20's in the front, I've now decided to save my $1,600 and ride it as it is until the forks need rebuilt.

 

[FRR]

FWIW I think the Progressives mellow a little with miles, I have about 6,000 on mine and they don't seem quite as harsh. I was going to put the Traxion Dynamics AK20's in the front, I've now decided to save my $1,600 and ride it as it is until the forks need rebuilt.

I hope you are correct. I've just turned 6000 on my kit today and it sure doesn't seem any softer.

 

[msocko3]

I hope you are correct. I've just turned 6000 on my kit today and it sure doesn't seem any softer.

I'm pretty happy with mine, it could be a touch smoother. The alternative is the stock springs which may need spacers added to get the proper preload so the front end doesn't sag. A friend of mine who does a bunch of suspension work on 2 & 3 wheel has seen some interesting stuff. He has taken forks apart on trikes and found washers and any manner of items used to preload the springs just to hold the front end up after it had been triked using stock springs.

 

[Gold Rush]

FWIW I think the Progressives mellow a little with miles, I have about 6,000 on mine and they don't seem quite as harsh. I was going to put the Traxion Dynamics AK20's in the front, I've now decided to save my $1,600 and ride it as it is until the forks need rebuilt.

Sounds like a Winter Project to me...... You might try going full OEM one more time with a fresh set of springs. It's true the OEM springs seem to loose their strength pretty quick but they cost a whole $9.98 each. That's less then some of the other rebuild parts. I've found the forks need rebuild about every 25K. The next time I do mine (and every time if they prove beneficial) I'll be putting in a new set of OEM springs. Until then this is just MHO but I'll take measurement and photos when I do the retro mod. Then we'll have a better idea on the subject.....

January is a long way off so Ride Safe my friends.... :xszpv::xszpv:

 

[Bones158]

John or Jim, I'm looking to add brake speed bleeders to the rear calipers on my Venture conversion. Do you know what the size I need? Thanks

http://speedbleeder.com/

 

[Hannigan Motorsports]

Definitely a Jim Gooch question.
Gooch is away at Sturgis right now conducting Training at Indian of Sturgis and is scheduled to return on Wed. August 6th.
Please call in then and ask for Jim and someone will page him to the phone to answer this question.
Hope this works for you.
If you don't mind, please post what he advises here on this Thread so others can see and benefit from the answer as well.

Thanks much!

 

[Bones158]

Thanks John. Wish we were with him in Sturgis.

 

[fred786]

Progressive Shocks question.
My 2010 HD CVO Ultra was converted back in Oct 13. We just love it but thus far have not loaded it down for any long trips, just day trips. The first week of Sept we will be traveling from Ontario Canada down to Maggie Valley for 10 days. So she will be loaded down for the first time since the conversion. Once there we plan on doing Tail of the Dragon etc less luggage of course. I have no idea what your factory settings are on the shocks or how to adjust them if required as I don't know the model number of the shocks. I have approx. 4.5" ground clearance on the pipes. Sorry to be long winded but do you feel I will have to adjust the shocks for the load or leave this alone? I am estimating a total weight of 450lbs that includes my wife and I. Fred

 

[Hannigan Motorsports]

Fred,
Great Question.
Given You, your Wife, and Cargo are only adding up to approx. 450 lbs, No Adjustment on the Shocks should be necessary at all.
That is as long as your Shocks are set in the "Middle-Notch" Setting. There are a total of 5 Pre-Load Setting locations. We normally set those in the middle position which is perfect for the vast majority (95% plus) of Owners and situations. From what you have told us here, I'd say you are good to go as is without issue.
* Make Sure you are running right at 28 p.s.i. in the Rear Tires *

However, should you or anyone else reading this feel the necessity to stiffen/raise the Shocks it can be done using a standard Shock Spanner. The Shocks are Inverse mounted meaning the adjusting Top-Cap is now on the bottom end of the Shock. The easiest way to adjust these up or down is to jack the rear up to relieve the Load and then approach the bottom adjusting Cap from the rear of the Tire & Wheel with the Spanner. If possible and you have the time, it is much easier to do this with the Tire & Wheel removed. NEVER set the Shocks on the 1st or 5th (max Upper or max Lower) Notches. Use the 2nd-4th ONLY. As stated earlier, the 3rd/Middle Setting is just what the Doctor ordered for 95 out of 100 plus Owners and situations.
*For Reference: In case you or anyone ever does remove the Wheels (on any HMS Trike) for any reason, remount and torque Lugs to 85 ft/lbs.

For any Trike manufactured on or after Jan 1 2014, the Shocks are a newer design which no longer utilizes the standard 5-Notch Pre-Load Design & Configuration. The new Shocks have a hand-adjustable Cap which does not require a Spanner to change and is free-adjusting. This means you can raise or lower to suit without any incremental stops. With these an Owner, if desired, can meticulously "dial-in" the Suspension to the Pre-Load that best fits their individual needs and wants. Again, it is easier to do with the Trike jacked-up and Load removed from the Shock. Easiest with Trike jacked-up and Tire & Wheel removed.

Hope this answers your question and provides direction for others now and to come.
As always, if you still have any question or concern about this or something else, please feel free to give us a call.

Safe and enjoyable Journey to Maggie Valley and be sure and post Picture(s) in our Photo Thread here on Trike Talk.

P.s. Never tire of seeing your Trike. It is a "Beaut" ThumbUp

 

[fred786]

Fred,
Great Question.
Given You, your Wife, and Cargo are only adding up to approx. 450 lbs, No Adjustment on the Shocks should be necessary at all.
That is as long as your Shocks are set in the "Middle-Notch" Setting. There are a total of 5 Pre-Load Setting locations. We normally set those in the middle position which is perfect for the vast majority (95% plus) of Owners and situations. From what you have told us here, I'd say you are good to go as is without issue.
* Make Sure you are running right at 28 p.s.i. in the Rear Tires *

However, should you or anyone else reading this feel the necessity to stiffen/raise the Shocks it can be done using a standard Shock Spanner. The Shocks are Inverse mounted meaning the adjusting Top-Cap is now on the bottom end of the Shock. The easiest way to adjust these up or down is to jack the rear up to relieve the Load and then approach the bottom adjusting Cap from the rear of the Tire & Wheel with the Spanner. If possible and you have the time, it is much easier to do this with the Tire & Wheel removed. NEVER set the Shocks on the 1st or 5th (max Upper or max Lower) Notches. Use the 2nd-4th ONLY. As stated earlier, the 3rd/Middle Setting is just what the Doctor ordered for 95 out of 100 plus Owners and situations.
*For Reference: In case you or anyone ever does remove the Wheels (on any HMS Trike) for any reason, remount and torque Lugs to 85 ft/lbs.

For any Trike manufactured on or after Jan 1 2014, the Shocks are a newer design which no longer utilizes the standard 5-Notch Pre-Load Design & Configuration. The new Shocks have a hand-adjustable Cap which does not require a Spanner to change and is free-adjusting. This means you can raise or lower to suit without any incremental stops. With these an Owner, if desired, can meticulously "dial-in" the Suspension to the Pre-Load that best fits their individual needs and wants. Again, it is easier to do with the Trike jacked-up and Load removed from the Shock. Easiest with Trike jacked-up and Tire & Wheel removed.

Hope this answers your question and provides direction for others now and to come.
As always, if you still have any question or concern about this or something else, please feel free to give us a call.

Safe and enjoyable Journey to Maggie Valley and be sure and post Picture(s) in our Photo Thread here on Trike Talk.

P.s. Never tire of seeing your Trike. It is a "Beaut" ThumbUp

Thanks. Get tons of positive comments about her and I always make sure to tell them she is half Hannigan! Fred

 

[12Wing Nut]

I have a 2012 Gold Wing level 4. Is the "180" front end compatible with the ABS & air bag sensors? Also, I have a paint matching Quantum GL "New" Bushtec trailer. Are you able to install the Bushtec hitch with the Gen II conversion?

 

[Hannigan Motorsports]

12Wing Nut,
Thanks for the question. Simple answer to all 3 questions: Absoluteley Yes ThumbUp

The HMS 180 Wide Front Conversion is compatible with both ABS & Airbag OEM equipped Bikes without issue or problem (also, No "upcharge" for either is assessed).
Coincidentally we are performing a Retro-Fit to an existing HMS GEN 2 Trike with both those OEM Options this week for another Owner.

We, or any of our Dealers, can modify the Hannigan Trailer Hitch Assembly to accept and utilize the Bushtec Coupling. We have done this many times in the past with no issues at all.

I appreciate the opportunity to answer these questions and concerns for you and all else who may be in the same situation.

Please feel free to contact us by email, phone or right here on Trike Talk should you ever have the need.

 

[FRR]

Our pleasure Sir ThumbUp

We retain the Hand-Lever linking to the Rear and disable the link to the Front from the Rear when the Foot-Pedal is utilized.

So,
When you apply Foot-Pedal braking: Only the Rear Brakes are engaged.
When you apply Hand-Lever braking: the OEM Linking & Proportioning remains and Both are being engaged same as prior to conversion.

Thanks much for your question. I hope this answers your inquiry as well as any Others who may be wondering the same. As always, if not or you need anything else just give us a call anytime or Post here on Trike Talk.

In an unrelated call today with your Tech department I asked a question about the braking system and was advised the exact opposite of what this email indicated. They suggested I respond back and recommend that whoever was kind enough to respond on this subject to please check with your Tech folks.

 

[3rdwheel]

Fred786, we took our long trip recently and we may have had about the same weight including pulling a trailer. We didn't ever bottom out once and it rode very nice. For me, I wouldn't have changed anything on the suspension. Sometimes I anticipated hearing an "ouch" from the backseat when crossing rough areas like I used to on 2 wheels, but didn't happen.
Keith

 

[Hannigan Motorsports]

Sorry for the confusion and ambiguity but thanks much for discovering and posting the situation.
When the Individual that gave the original Information returns on Wednesday, we will convene a meeting of the "conflicting Techs" and come to a definitive Consensus as to which is accurate. I will post the results of that meeting here as well as amend the original Post if necessary.

 

[Hannigan Motorsports]

FRR and All,
After talking with the 2 conflicting Techs, We found the original Post #4 described the HMS Brake System "backwards". It should have read and described the following:

We retain the Foot-Lever linking to the Front and disable the link to the Rear from the Front when the Hand-Lever is utilized.
So,
When you apply Foot-Pedal braking: the OEM Linking & Proportioning remains and Both Front & Rear Brakes are being engaged same as prior to conversion.
When you apply Hand-Lever braking: Only the Front Brakes are engaged and applied


Thanks much for your "double-check" of the original Post and Info as well as posting the conflicting situations here on Trike Talk. We are grateful for the notice and opportunity to clear-up the discrepancy and insure Information Posted is accurate.

*Original Post #4 has been corrected-Thanks Zook!