just wondering if anyone has had issues with the front engine bracket breaking. Noticed last night riding home a bit of vibration thru bike and upon inspection this morning found bracket had broken just above where it is bolted to motor.
Front engine mount broken
- Thread starter wild65
- Start date
There are a few of that happening! Try doing a search.
With my 2011 Tri Glide I had the bolts lossen a few times ' And once had one bolt shear off! I solved the problem by using fully threaded #8 bolts and #268 stick lock tight .
Lee H. Mann
Gone But Not Forgotten
- Moderator
- #4
If the trike is still under warrantee you should have no problem with HD fixing it. Mostly I've heard of the bolts coming out of the head. Or as in mine breaking off in the head. They had to replace the front head on mine.
Jim I installed one of those links after the first bolt came out. And the new bolt still broke 40k later. The service manager was a friend so he took care of it. I had to give them the original link when they put it back together.
Jim I installed one of those links after the first bolt came out. And the new bolt still broke 40k later. The service manager was a friend so he took care of it. I had to give them the original link when they put it back together.
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As others have noted, they bolts have a tendency to back out on some...or even break. It is more rare for the actual bracket to break.
I'm curious, what year TG do you have?
If you are still under warranty, have them fix it. Otherwise looks like a new bracket needs to be purchased. I would also replace the bolts and lock-washers for the bolts at the same time.
Kevin
I'm curious, what year TG do you have?
If you are still under warranty, have them fix it. Otherwise looks like a new bracket needs to be purchased. I would also replace the bolts and lock-washers for the bolts at the same time.
Kevin
- Thread starter
- #7
Thanks everyone for your thoughts its a 2010 model but upon closer inspection today found 1 bolt loose but after removing the bracket which has been chromed it has been previously welded although it didn't break on the weld but above it
On my 14 TG the bolt came out while on vacation. Last month on my 14 TG the mount broke off. H-D refused to replace the head on it so the dealer had to send it out to a machine shop. Took a week and a half. At least I got a free Limited as a loaner for a week and a half. 
i have 2010 TG my bolts also came out , put new bolts back in with lock tight then one of the bolts broke off had to take to harley to get fixed thank god still under warrenty cost me 50.00 went good for a while then this year the the bracket broke , took it off had it welded to keep me rideing for awhile , just today i installed a new bracket , with a new link one just like the picture lee mann shows here ,also drilled holes through the head of bolt so i can safty wire it hopefully to keep the bolts from coming out well see all i can say is it must be a ****ty design talk to dealers about it they looked at me like i was the only one this was happen to good luck
just installed one these on my 2010 TG is there correct way for adjusting this ,like should it be adjusted outward to keep engine secure or adjust inward
Lee H. Mann
Gone But Not Forgotten
Which ever way gives you the best clearance. Make it the exact same length as the stock rod.
- Moderator
- #13
Word of caution I had changed my bar to the one pictured after the bolt came out previously. It still later (about a year) managed to break the bolt off in the head. The bolt might have been weakened before the change (don't know). I took the trike to my dealer where I happen to know the service manager. He advised that HD would not have replaced the head or made a repair under warrantee if I had taken it elsewhere because of the bar. Being it was not a stock part and being the warrantee claim was directly related to where it attaches, the claim would have been denied. My friend replaced the bar before the service was wrote up and done. Covered the repair and new head under warrantee. So I agree that it is a good idea but if you are under warrantee think about what my service manager said.
My Advice to anyone that's out of warrantee, And the bolts come loose . Is to remove the stock ones, Careful not to lose the thick washers/spacers behind the mount, And get #8 ''Fully'' threaded bolts' And put some 268 ''Stick'' Lock-tite on them, Tighten them up ' And let it sit overnight to cure... ... The'll never come loose again...
DK Custom Products
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The above is what I did (on a road trip), but I also added some good lock washers. Have not had a problem since.
Kevin
Pics Please
I would also like it if someone could post a picture of where this issue is. I have a 2016 Tri-Glide and would like to know what to look for without mistake.
Thanks
I would also like it if someone could post a picture of where this issue is. I have a 2016 Tri-Glide and would like to know what to look for without mistake.
Thanks
MDF48
250+ Posts
Try This.
I think the terminology used might be confusing to you. I don't have a picture, but the link below will carry you to a good picture of the engine. If I am not badly mistaken, everyone is talking about the item # 12 with the associated bolts, washers spacers etc. shown in the link below. It is referred to by HD as a tie link BRACKET and is part of the engine stabilizer link. The actual front motor mount is # 8, 11 etc. Hope this helps you. ***BTW*** this link and diagram is a 2016 twin cam...not the new M8***
http://partsfinder.onlinemicrofiche...CLASSIC (MA) ENGINE MOUNTS W/ STABILIZER LINK
Admin, if this link is not permitted please delete it.
I think the terminology used might be confusing to you. I don't have a picture, but the link below will carry you to a good picture of the engine. If I am not badly mistaken, everyone is talking about the item # 12 with the associated bolts, washers spacers etc. shown in the link below. It is referred to by HD as a tie link BRACKET and is part of the engine stabilizer link. The actual front motor mount is # 8, 11 etc. Hope this helps you. ***BTW*** this link and diagram is a 2016 twin cam...not the new M8***
http://partsfinder.onlinemicrofiche...CLASSIC (MA) ENGINE MOUNTS W/ STABILIZER LINK
Admin, if this link is not permitted please delete it.
Number 3 [Two bolts] Are the ones that loosen, And or shear off... Interesting is the fiche shows the bolts fully treaded, But in reality they are not [At least mine weren't], And i think thats part of the problem without full threads the bolts will shoulder up and not fully tighten...
And the M8 has A slightly different set up... And in the Harley manual [2017] it is recommended to check those bolts at every service interval...
MDF48
250+ Posts
Yes, you are correct.
I ordered some extra bolts (PN 4721) washers and two of the spacers from a local HD dealer last year. I did this just to have some and I keep them on the TGU all the time. The 4721 bolts from HD are NOT fully threaded. I was told by the dealers parts department that this was what their parts lookup showed for the 4721 bolt. The package they came in is labeled 4721 Screw Cap and made in 05/16. The threads stop about 5/16 short. I wonder if the 17 (by chance) uses the same bolts and if they are fully threaded? It would be interesting to know how deep the threads are cut into the heads. Because of the spacer and washers a completely threaded bolt of this size shouldn't be an advantage unless it is 1/4 longer? Correct?
I ordered some extra bolts (PN 4721) washers and two of the spacers from a local HD dealer last year. I did this just to have some and I keep them on the TGU all the time. The 4721 bolts from HD are NOT fully threaded. I was told by the dealers parts department that this was what their parts lookup showed for the 4721 bolt. The package they came in is labeled 4721 Screw Cap and made in 05/16. The threads stop about 5/16 short. I wonder if the 17 (by chance) uses the same bolts and if they are fully threaded? It would be interesting to know how deep the threads are cut into the heads. Because of the spacer and washers a completely threaded bolt of this size shouldn't be an advantage unless it is 1/4 longer? Correct?
The hole is deeper.....Before i used the new blots, I cleaned out the holes/treads to get out the other 3 lock-tite's and the broken bolt...[Blue Red And Green]....Ive used over a year or so..I wanted to make sure the new bolts would fit, And i didn't want to revisit this again...I carried a 9/16 ratcheting box wench in the top box...The box wench was so i wound't slip off the bolt and burn my knuckles on the hot engine....Once i used the new bolts and a shot of 268 stick lock-tite...I went 8 thousand miles and they stayed tight...
Lee H. Mann
Gone But Not Forgotten
Peter A.
1000+ Posts
Bolts
This is an interesting thread - I have 84 thou. miles and Wife has 54 thou. miles (both 2010 HD trikes) and we have never experienced ANY problems/issues with our sterring
damper or related engine mount etc.
KNOCK ON WOOD
We enjoy our TRIKES!
:clapping:
This is an interesting thread - I have 84 thou. miles and Wife has 54 thou. miles (both 2010 HD trikes) and we have never experienced ANY problems/issues with our sterring
damper or related engine mount etc.
KNOCK ON WOOD
We enjoy our TRIKES!
:clapping:
- Moderator
- #23
Just FYI this is not just a trike issue. I have friends with 2 wheel touring bikes that have had the bolts back out. Its really something to just check on your look around.
Who makes it, part number and where do I get one? e-mail me at jlandcarol@centurylink.net thank you
James, Who makes what, And what do you mean by one....:Shrug:
Stabilizer for M-8?
Jim,
Is this something we need to worry about on the M-8s? If so, do you sell the part to fix it?
Thanks for your help!
Jim,
Is this something we need to worry about on the M-8s? If so, do you sell the part to fix it?
Thanks for your help!
Harley recommends to check those at every service interval....Even though there in a little different position on the M8 Vs the 103's...They are 9/16's....And i would recommend using a Box Wrench less chance of slipping off the bolt.. A 9/16 box has been part of my carry on tool kit since 2011 just for those two bolts..
broken head
i have a 09TG amnd my bolt was in with blue lock tight as i had lost 2 bolts prior (same bolt, right side). only went for two short rides (maybe 20 miles ea.) ,when the viberation came back, checked the bolts and the bolt littery came out the side of the head!! now I Have to get the head welded!! bike down in this nice spring weather.:gah:
i have a 09TG amnd my bolt was in with blue lock tight as i had lost 2 bolts prior (same bolt, right side). only went for two short rides (maybe 20 miles ea.) ,when the viberation came back, checked the bolts and the bolt littery came out the side of the head!! now I Have to get the head welded!! bike down in this nice spring weather.:gah:
DK Custom Products
Sponsor
i have a 09TG amnd my bolt was in with blue lock tight as i had lost 2 bolts prior (same bolt, right side). only went for two short rides (maybe 20 miles ea.) ,when the viberation came back, checked the bolts and the bolt littery came out the side of the head!! now I Have to get the head welded!! bike down in this nice spring weather.:gah:
Bummer, sorry to hear that.
When it goes back together, make sure a good, new lock-washer is used. I had trouble with mine until I added that into the mix.
Kevin
i have a 09TG amnd my bolt was in with blue lock tight as i had lost 2 bolts prior (same bolt, right side). only went for two short rides (maybe 20 miles ea.) ,when the viberation came back, checked the bolts and the bolt littery came out the side of the head!! now I Have to get the head welded!! bike down in this nice spring weather.:gah:
Jim, Sorry about your troubles...Hopefully it can be fixed fast...But in the mean time let me welcome you to Trike-Talk....:wave4:
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