I had trouble finding neutral til I switched the transmission over to Redline Shokpruf tranny fluid, easy as can be now, my 02 FXSTB was the same way....
Finding Neutral
- Thread starter Trapper54
- Start date
+1 for me also.
Redline for me, too!
Did the extra tightening cause any negative results? I am assuming you meant three turns in after "contact" or resistance.
I know this is an old thread but it's a new issue for me as this is my first 6-speed Harley. I've had 3 other H-Ds, all 2 wheelers and 5-speeds. My 2012 TriGlide has been difficult with the neutral issue since new. I recently changed the tranny to Redline Shockproof and the primary to reline High Temp ATF at 12,500 miles. (Both of these products work extremely well in my 1999 RK, 5-speed.) After a 200 mile ride yesterday, Jan 3, 2014, I sat in my driveway for 15 minutes with the motor running and was unable to find neutral! Turned the engine off, and neutral was easy. Today I changed tranny and primary back to MoCo spec oil and all is wonderful. I'm not saying this will work for everyone, but it fixed the problem for me.
Good thing you changed the primary back, ATF and the compensator they use in your 2012 isn't a good combination. In 2007 HD changed the compensator design and its been all down hill from there. They tried to fix their screwup by designing the Screamin Eagle compensator which is the style in your Triglide, they haven't gotten it right yet. Even the 2014 which has a different twist on the Screamin Eagle compensator has had a revision from what I've heard.
The biggest issues they have been having is getting lubrication to the places where it is most needed, this causes fretting and galling both which lead to early demise of the compensator. The best fluid for the primary is Formula+, it seems to help the compensator live a longer life, it doesn't solve the problem, just helps it to live a bit longer. Sooner or later the compensator will go bad, you'll notice it when you start hearing clanking when you shut the engine off when everything is warm. My dads was quiet as a church mouse until about the 30,000 mile mark when his started clanking pretty loud while out west. He was still under extended warranty which paid for the replacement, dealer replaced it and its quiet once again.
I have owned 8 Harleys since 1988 and not one was I able to click into neutral without a problem - ever.
Only way it worked great was with the engine off or riding slowly and shifting into neutral BEFORE coming to a stop.
For me - no big deal - it's a Harley and I expect that and the other traits of a Harley - if I didn't I wouldn't buy one.
Only way it worked great was with the engine off or riding slowly and shifting into neutral BEFORE coming to a stop.
For me - no big deal - it's a Harley and I expect that and the other traits of a Harley - if I didn't I wouldn't buy one.
Another change that would most likely help is a different shift cam that lets you put neutral in the place of first gear, & 1st in the place of neutral. Local MOCO parts manager was showing it to me. It was in the FAT BOOK.
<cite class="vurls">www.dragspecialties.com/catalogs/</cite>
Just a thought.
For me, I have to agree with this post. I had trouble from day one on our 2013 Tri-Glide finding neutral until I installed the SE clutch spring and Clutch wiz.
2010 Tri have never had any problem finding neutral from day one to 38000 miles. It's all in the adjustment.
Did the Clutch-Wiz too. Made it easier to pull the lever, but did nothing for finding neutral.
I adjust all my cables and even had dealer adjust clutch cable on all my Harleys - never helped on any. Maybe I was just one of the unlucky owners that had all bad Harleys when it came to adjusting clutches. :gah:
I'll just keep clicking into neutral as I slow down.
I adjust all my cables and even had dealer adjust clutch cable on all my Harleys - never helped on any. Maybe I was just one of the unlucky owners that had all bad Harleys when it came to adjusting clutches. :gah:
I'll just keep clicking into neutral as I slow down.
T
TheBobs
Just adjust the clutch cable a turn or two. Finding neutral was horrible before I adjusted the cable. Also you can run the rpm up to about 1500 and hold it there and it will "fall" right into neutral for you. It doesn't sound as cool as blipping the throttle, but it works pretty good.
I use the heel shifter to find neutral. I find it easier to push down on the heel shifter than push up with the toe shifter when I am about to stop and in 1st gear. It works for me.
14K miles on a 2012 TriGlide still having issues finding neutral while at a dead stop. Stealer and I both changed trans and clutch fluid, adjusted clutch, etc. Problem remains. If I ease it into neutral while the trike is still moving ever so slowly, no problem. If I come to a complete stop - no go. Easy to find it with the engine off. On all my other 2-wheel Harleys, this is never an an issue. I've tried to use the same trans and clutch products on the Trike as I do in the 2-wheels Harleys, still can't fix the Trike problem. Adjusting clutch has always worked on my 2-wheel H-Ds to fix this issue, not so on the Trike. I'm learning to live with the issue.
Have had same issue since taking delivery in Oct 2013. Tried everything mentioned here except Easy-clutch. Finally got fed up and wrote letter to MoCo, they could care less! Went back to stealer, tech admitted this is a problem with the TriGlide! OMG, can't believe he said it out loud. They set about adjusting clutch. They removed primary case and removed clutch pac. Tech called me and wanted to know who installed SE clutch kit. I had no idea that was there when i bought the trike and the stealer didn't mention it. Tech claims that is probably the reason I'm having problems with neutral. However, after they finished the adjustment, $300, bike shifts like warm butter and neutral is there very time. Tech said not to be surprised if I'm back in 3,000 miles for another $300 adjustment. That is crap! $35K for machine that won't hold clutch adjustment. My 1999 FLHR has had the same SE clutch for over 10 years without a single adjustment except after the first 500 miles.
About two minutes after posting this the first time today, got a call from the MoCo! They are interested and will contact the stealer's service tech and document issue in their computers.
About two minutes after posting this the first time today, got a call from the MoCo! They are interested and will contact the stealer's service tech and document issue in their computers.
It'll hold a clutch adjustment just fine, I think you were taken for a ride. Adjusting a clutch is a pretty simple task, which doesn't require the primary to be taken apart. If you have to spend $300 in another 3,000 miles you've been had.
I was under the impression the Trike had the SE clutch installed in all of them.I'm using Amsoil 140w in the trans, so maybe it isn't wearing in very fast ! HA:xszpv:
i have to agree here also. The Clutch Wiz not only made the clutch easier to hold in traffics but it made finding neutral a simple matter.
Yes, and I have an 05 Ultra with the Lehman conversion. It was like that when I bought it (used) and the original owner had the same problem. Changing to different weight lubes had no effect.
- - - Updated - - -
Are you talking about making the adjustment to the nuts in the clutch pack or at the adjustment the cable?
- Moderator
- #54
its all in the adjustment. If you adjust the clutch pack first as directed in the manual. Remember the cable should be loose first. I adjust the pack on the tight side they say back it off 1/2 to 3/4 of a turn after bottoming the adjusting screw till it touches the pack. I only turn back the 1/2 turn. Then I adjust the cable as directed but again on the tight side. You have to pull on the outer cable housing at the lever to make sure you only get the 1/8 inch gap. I make it a tight 1/8. Clutch works great shifts into neutral with ease. Take your time and do it right it should work fine. Most of the time it is hard to find neutral is because the clutch is not completely dis-engaging. Be care to tight and the clutch will slip.
In addition to what I posted earlier in this thread regarding finding neutral, if you're stopped with the clutch released and the engine not running roll the bike forward and backward to find the middle ground half way between each gear and you should be able to easily shift the transmission either direction. Be careful not to over shot the shifter.
Phu Cat
Phu Cat
All I do when in first is to' tap [lightly] on the heal shifter...With my heal...
Work's every time once you get the hang of it !!.
Work's every time once you get the hang of it !!.
Cavie, Same "Harley clunk" into first gear too
Do you pull in the clutch and blip the throttle a time or two after first starting your bike ? Most times that will free up those sticky clutch plates that have been sitting in an oil bath and let your tranny slip into first almost silently. Worked on my Kaw.
Phu Cat
Do you pull in the clutch and blip the throttle a time or two after first starting your bike ? Most times that will free up those sticky clutch plates that have been sitting in an oil bath and let your tranny slip into first almost silently. Worked on my Kaw.
Phu Cat
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