Does Lugging Destroy All Engines or Just S&S 124?

Sep 18, 2012
45
5
Foristell, MO
I recently contacted S&S about their 124 ci low compression touring engine. I asked if it will fit in the TriGlide.

This is their reply:

It will fit but our engines are engineered for performance and a trike application seems to be a little ruff on our engines unless you run them like a performance engine. You need to keep them over 3000 rpm when going down the road, you can’t run around in high gear chugging the engine, it will destroy the engine if you lug it.

Does it really make sense that their engine is more susceptible to "low performance" riding than a 103 or 120R?

Yes, I know better than to lug the engine. :)
 
Lugging any Twin Cam will sooner or later kill it. Lugging can leed to a shifted crankshaft, beat the bearinigs on the bottom end up pretty good, can cause detonation. Lugging is just plain hard on the engine and drive train. I can see where S&S would have a concern since they offer a 1 year warranty on their engine. Get some inexperienced rider who thinks the engine is a tractor engine and will do 6th gear roll ons up a hill from 2,000 - 2,500 rpm.

If you have it tuned properly and down shift when your supposed to I would expect the S&S engine to leed a long happy life. They market that low compression 124 for heavy touring bikes.
 
Lugging is not good for the motor,any motor. It is really easy to do, esp if you don't have a tach. Some people think they can tell by the sound of the motor or pipes? But I think they would be surprised what RPM they are really at.

Just because one has a 6 speed, some think they should be in 6th at 40mph, 2 up, good luck.
Harley list it as 6speed overdrive, that's what it is. Use your tach if you have one. Watch the rpm in any gear and stay above 2500rpm. Don't worry about gas mileage and pound your motor to death.

Just my opion, but I gave it cause you asked, and I see it all the time.

Later, eighty80.
 
I definitely agree with your comments on the evil of lugging any engine. My real question is why would S&S have more concern than MOCO? It seems to me that an engine built to take the stress of racing like S&S should be able to stand up to as much lugging as our stock 103's or a 120R.

I am trying to decide which one to buy.
 
As one who owns a trike with a 124" I recently installed.I can tell you that having the longer stroke requires you to change your riding style. The 4 5/8" needs to be kept in a higher rpm range as already stated.

If you dont like the idea of running your engine in the upper rpm range I would suggest to you to consider building a 117". The 1/2" shorter stroke will allow you to ride in the lower rpms ( to point ) without lugging it. The 117" will still be a stump puller and can easily climb those steep mountain grades and accelerate with alot more ease compared to most 103" engines
 
One thing I want to add, having a purpose built engine for you would be better than buying a off the shelf crate engine when it comes to most trikes or touring bikes. The off the shelf engines such as the 120R & the S&S 124" versions were designed for performance in mind.

Working with a engine builder or building your own and getting the right combination of parts will result in a better running engine for you in the long run. Its alot of information to process when you step into this size engine
 
One thing I want to add, having a purpose built engine for you would be better than buying a off the shelf crate engine when it comes to most trikes or touring bikes. The off the shelf engines such as the 120R & the S&S 124" versions were designed for performance in mind.

Working with a engine builder or building your own and getting the right combination of parts will result in a better running engine for you in the long run. Its alot of information to process when you step into this size engine

x2.....It definatly needs to be built to perform best in the RPM range/gear ratio's/driving conditions you will be using. Selecting the proper camshaft will be the biggest determining factor in this. Of course that will effect other components in the valvetrain.

I would suggest calling the company & talking to someone to see if they can do a custom build for your application. They will need to know some specifics about your trike like weight, gear ratios, tire size, expected driving conditions etc...... If they don't seem interested or don't ask these questions, find somebody else that does.
 
One thing I want to add, having a purpose built engine for you would be better than buying a off the shelf crate engine when it comes to most trikes or touring bikes. The off the shelf engines such as the 120R & the S&S 124" versions were designed for performance in mind.

Working with a engine builder or building your own and getting the right combination of parts will result in a better running engine for you in the long run. Its alot of information to process when you step into this size engine


Myself I like the idea of crate engines, I agree a custom build is the way to go if your willing to cough up the extra dough it will cost. I like the crate engines because the cost to get into a big inch engine is lower. Had Harley or S&S offered a bolt in crate engine before I started building my 120 I would have went that direction. A custom build can cost $1,000+ over what a crate engine cost. There are starting to be quite a few 120R's running around with some pretty high mileage with no real issues. I work with a guy who's uncle has a 120R in his Ultra LTD with 45,000 miles on it, he does a lot of traveling.

I like the idea S&S started offering the 124 with lower compression and the 585 cams. I haven't come across any dyno sheets on this combination but have to belive it hits pretty low on the bottom end.
 
Myself I like the idea of crate engines, I agree a custom build is the way to go if your willing to cough up the extra dough it will cost. I like the crate engines because the cost to get into a big inch engine is lower. Had Harley or S&S offered a bolt in crate engine before I started building my 120 I would have went that direction. A custom build can cost $1,000+ over what a crate engine cost. There are starting to be quite a few 120R's running around with some pretty high mileage with no real issues. I work with a guy who's uncle has a 120R in his Ultra LTD with 45,000 miles on it, he does a lot of traveling.

I like the idea S&S started offering the 124 with lower compression and the 585 cams. I haven't come across any dyno sheets on this combination but have to belive it hits pretty low on the bottom end.

I would respectfully disagree on the price of building a engine compared to buying a crate engine. I built my engine for less than 5K in parts and shop
labor. It does come down to shopping for the items as they do come up for sale online or you can find a dealer for the parts having a % discount on engine parts.

It does take longer to do it this way compared to buying a crate engine

Tom
 
I would respectfully disagree on the price of building a engine compared to buying a crate engine. I built my engine for less than 5K in parts and shop
labor. It does come down to shopping for the items as they do come up for sale online or you can find a dealer for the parts having a % discount on engine parts.

It does take longer to do it this way compared to buying a crate engine

Tom


Your right it can be done with some time and shopping around, but not everyone is in the position you or I are in where we know what we're doing and do 99% of our own work. If I had to pay someone for everything I did I wouldn't have done half of what I've done to my bikes over the years, I couldn't afford it.
 
Your right it can be done with some time and shopping around, but not everyone is in the position you or I are in where we know what we're doing and do 99% of our own work. If I had to pay someone for everything I did I wouldn't have done half of what I've done to my bikes over the years, I couldn't afford it.

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