Compensator

[Rogue1]

I've got compensator noise again so I went down to the local dealer to talk to them. They put one in about 16 months ago under extended warranty. I really felt it should have lasted me longer than 16 months. All the service manager could tell me was to run heavy gear lube in the primary. I've never heard of this before, never heard it discussed. I said that's not what the book calls for he said I don't give a shit what the book calls for that's a heavy bike run heavy gear lube in the primary. I never thought to tell him that's not what they added when they changed the compensator the first time. I'd like to know if anybody has any experience with this as I've never heard it discussed before.

 

[Gorilla]

Hi Dale,

I will just tell you my experience. When I changed the compensator on my 2013 I had read (I don't remember where) to do the same thing reference the gear oil.

I started running Valvoline 75 W 90 synthetic gear oil. No issues and I had over 60k miles on the trike when I sold it. One thing to look up so as not to get confused. Look up the comparison of the viscosity of gear oil to engine oil. The numbers are not the same for the same. Just as an example 50 w engine oil is not the same viscosity as 50 w gear oil.
So don't be concerned that the number means its thicker because it's not. Below from Google:

A 75W gear oil grade generally corresponds to an engine oil with a viscosity around 10W-30. However, the exact equivalence can vary slightly depending on the specific gear oil grade (e.g., 75W-80 vs. 75W-90) and the type of engine oil.

 

[HDUSA1]

The H-D compensators are junk and they know it, even the Screaming Eagle version.

They are made out of powdered sintered metal and it doesn’t take much to break one, even under normal driving.

They tell you to use heavier oil mainly so you don’t hear it rattling around and to provide a thicker film cushion in the ramps. If you are starting to hear it more and it’s getting more difficult to shift/find neutral, it needs replaced.

I’ve seen where they’ve grenaded and everything inside the Primary, both the inside & outside cases, the left engine case, and the starter all had to be replaced.

I don’t have an extended warranty on my bike and I didn’t want to risk it after I converted my bike with a Roadsmith kit and added another 300 pounds to it. While I had the primary apart changing the belt, I installed a Baker compensator I ordered from Fuelmoto. Was easy to install and finding neutral is much easier and no more clunks. They are made ENTIRELY different than H-D’s. Baker recommended using Belray Primary chaincase fluid in the instructions.

The Baker is pricey though at $599. The next best option is to go with an aftermarket BILLET steel OEM style compensator. S&S has one for $314.96 as an example. Star, Evolution, Cycle-Rama, and others make them as well.

If your bike is still covered under a warranty, you probably won’t have much choice but to put a H-D back in it.

 

[ROAD DOG]

The H-D compensators are junk and they know it, even the Screaming Eagle version.

They are made out of powdered sintered metal and it doesn’t take much to break one, even under normal driving.

They tell you to use heavier oil mainly so you don’t hear it rattling around and to provide a thicker film cushion in the ramps. If you are starting to hear it more and it’s getting more difficult to shift/find neutral, it needs replaced.

I’ve seen where they’ve grenaded and everything inside the Primary, both the inside & outside cases, the left engine case, and the starter all had to be replaced.

I don’t have an extended warranty on my bike and I didn’t want to risk it after I converted my bike with a Roadsmith kit and added another 300 pounds to it. While I had the primary apart changing the belt, I installed a Baker compensator I ordered from Fuelmoto. Was easy to install and finding neutral is much easier and no more clunks. They are made ENTIRELY different than H-D’s. Baker recommended using Belray Primary chaincase fluid in the instructions.

The Baker is pricey though at $599. The next best option is to go with an aftermarket BILLET steel OEM style compensator. S&S has one for $314.96 as an example. Star, Evolution, Cycle-Rama, and others make them as well.

If your bike is still covered under a warranty, you probably won’t have much choice but to put a H-D back in it.

You can add in bent crankshaft to the cracked left engine case & $7500.

 

[HDUSA1]

Sounds like someone with experience

When I took the primary apart to install the belt, I noticed there was a little metallic sheen in the oil when I drained it. I kept looking where it came from but couldn’t find the source and thought maybe the clutch discs were failing.

Once I took the compensator apart, I found it. One of the lobes was starting to gall and there was a hairline crack in the thin part between the lobes. Was very fortunate I caught it in time. Bike had 20,000 miles on it when I bought it used and there were witness marks on the primary bolts where it looked like someone had it apart before me.

 

[Notgrownup]

My 21 has 10,000 miles on it, it was serviced by a dealer before I bought it. I am getting ready to do a 3 hole before I go on a 5 day ride. I’m putting the new recommended gear oil in this time . I tried it in my 14 and I liked it. The HD compensators are junk in my opinion. If this one takes a crap it will get rep,aced under warranty but if ihave to foot the bill a Baker is going in there.

 

[Old Road Dog]

The 3 hole engine oil campaign was dreamed up by Madison Avenue Marketeers. It sounds simple, convenient, and it's recommended by the MOCO. Humans are sucker's for this type of thinking. A lifetime spent around heavy equipment and trucking I wasn't easily fooled. Engine oil goes in the motor. Gear oil in the gearbox. This was known since God made dirt. The HD compensator is a sacrificial part. It's designed to absorb driveline shock and was never meant to be a lifetime part. It should last 100k but it's made cheaply.

The smart thing to do is upgrade the compensator ramp to an S&S unit. There are some others out there. But I suspect they are all made in a factory in the upper Midwest.While your at it change out the spring pack for HD' s stock unit. They look like large washers but really are springs.change the thrust washer too. Now for the more savvy and if your crank runout is within spec ... it dosnt get any better than the Darkhorse Man O' War Compensator. Now your ready to ride the North American Continent.

 

[Rogue1]

Decided to install the Darkhorse Man o' War compensator.

 

[ROAD DOG]

Decided to install the Darkhorse Man o' War compensator.

Thats a good one, I have installed 3 of them .

 

[Notgrownup]

Is that the one with the rubber disks?

 

[macronbill]

Yeah, that’s definitely frustrating, 16 months doesn’t sound right for a fresh compensator. I’ve heard of folks running gear lube in the primary, but it’s not exactly standard practice. Some swear by it to quiet things down and extend life, but others say it’s a bad idea long-term. Personally, I’d stick with what the manual recommends unless you’re seeing real benefits otherwise.

 

[ROAD DOG]

Is that the one with the rubber disks

Yes that's the one, you can buy a rebuild kit fairly cheap .

 

[JUSTME1951]

I've got compensator noise again so I went down to the local dealer to talk to them. They put one in about 16 months ago under extended warranty. I really felt it should have lasted me longer than 16 months. All the service manager could tell me was to run heavy gear lube in the primary. I've never heard of this before, never heard it discussed. I said that's not what the book calls for he said I don't give a shit what the book calls for that's a heavy bike run heavy gear lube in the primary. I never thought to tell him that's not what they added when they changed the compensator the first time. I'd like to know if anybody has any experience with this as I've never heard it discussed before.

What sort of noise? Must be loud if you can hear it over the pipes.

 

[Rogue1]

I've got compensator noise again so I went down to the local dealer to talk to them. They put one in about 16 months ago under extended warranty. I really felt it should have lasted me longer than 16 months. All the service manager could tell me was to run heavy gear lube in the primary. I've never heard of this before, never heard it discussed. I said that's not what the book calls for he said I don't give a shit what the book calls for that's a heavy bike run heavy gear lube in the primary. I never thought to tell him that's not what they added when they changed the compensator the first time. I'd like to know if anybody has any experience with this as I've never heard it discussed before.

Before I went with an expensive compensator I wanted to check everything out first. Having the second compensator go so fast I felt that must be something else wrong. There was. It took me awhile to find it but I finally found it. I checked the spring height of the spring pack. Supposed to be .286 to .326".

I measured it in three places and got from .248 to .250. Harley sells shims to put behind the spring pack against the rotor to beef up the spring pack. When I added two shims of .031" each, it brought the height of the spring pack up to .308". Started the bike up and it sounded great. No compensator noise at all, whatsoever. What I do hear now is a little chain slap coming from the primary. I haven't ridden it yet so I don't know if the self adjuster will adjust that out or not. If anyone has any experience with the adjuster please chime in it.

 

[Bouncer]

Here's what I run in my 2017 Tri Glide primary case.

Hot Rod & Classic Car 20W-50 Motor Oil – Lucas Oil Products, Inc. – Keep That Engine Alive!

www.lucasoil.com

Lucas hot-rod oil has the high zinc content for metal on metal protection. The ramps in your factory compensator are metal on metal.

My compensator looks great with almost 20,000 miles on it now.

 

[Rogue1]

Here's what I run in my 2017 Tri Glide primary case.

Hot Rod & Classic Car 20W-50 Motor Oil – Lucas Oil Products, Inc. – Keep That Engine Alive!

www.lucasoil.com

Lucas hot-rod oil has the high zinc content for metal on metal protection. The ramps in your factory compensator are metal on metal.

My compensator looks great with almost 20,000 miles on it now.

I'm glad the Lucas hot rod oil works for you. The compensator now is not the problem.

 

[RKplus10]

Before I went with an expensive compensator I wanted to check everything out first. Having the second compensator go so fast I felt that must be something else wrong. There was. It took me awhile to find it but I finally found it. I checked the spring height of the spring pack. Supposed to be .286 to .326". I measured it in three places and got from .248 to .250. Harley sells shims to put behind the spring pack against the rotor to beef up the spring pack. When I added two shims of .031" each, it brought the height of the spring pack up to .308". Started the bike up and it sounded great. No compensator noise at all, whatsoever. What I do hear now is a little chain slap coming from the primary. I haven't ridden it yet so I don't know if the self adjuster will adjust that out or not. If anyone has any experience with the adjuster please chime in it.

Dale, I’m glad those shims did the job for you. I’ve got an occasional compensator “rattle” at idle when warm. I believe it’s time for exploratory surgery to check things out. Do you have the part number for the shims? Also, did you reuse the primary gasket and did you have to pull the clutch basket?

 

[Rogue1]

Dale, I’m glad those shims did the job for you. I’ve got an occasional compensator “rattle” at idle when warm. I believe it’s time for exploratory surgery to check things out. Do you have the part number for the shims? Also, did you reuse the primary gasket and did you have to pull the clutch basket?

Did not have to pull a clutch hub to work on the compensator. Only the chain adjuster. I did not reuse the primary gasket this time but I have in the past without a problem.


Number one on the diagram shows the location of The shims

 

[RKplus10]

Really appreciate your help!