Cam ???

[chaser1602]

I searched for“cams” I searched m8 cams
I come up with message to long to short to common
Sooo,,,,,what cam should I run or what do you use?
Also what oil should I use?

 

[GrumpyVet]

I searched for“cams” I searched m8 cams
I come up with message to long to short to common
Sooo,,,,,what cam should I run or what do you use?
Also what oil should I use?

I am putting in a CR480 MT this coming Monday, and will be running Harley synthetic.

 

[HDUSA1]

Hoo boy, another oil thread. Everybody will have a strong opinion and you’re going to get 3 major groups responding. The nothing but Harley stuff, the Amsoil group, and the Royal Purple/ Redline/ Lucas/ Spectro/ Belray diehards. All will tell you of the magical elixirs contained in them and why theirs is superior.

I’m not going to tell you what to use, but will share a few thoughts for you to consider. I would however suggest doing some reading on “Bob is the oil guy” website if you want some actual comparison of oils by some actual petroleum engineers based on extensive engine oil analysis. Then, form your own opinion and go with it.

As long as it meets Harley’s spec and you change it at the recommended intervals, that’s what really counts. Myself personally, I think it’s unnecessary to buy the more expensive oils when you can go to about any Walmart and find Valvoline Motorcycle Synthetic 20W50 for $7.67/qt as an example and it gets good ratings on BITOG website. I like using Belray oils for the transmission, primary, and front shocks and order it off Amazon.

I am a stickler on oil filters and only use OEM on all my Powersports equipment. You’ll get lots of arguments, but Victory for example uses a 10 micron element. No other filter mfg makes a 10 micron element and Victory was voiding engine warranty’s when people were using other filters. Then there is the issue with anti-drain back, bypass, and anti-siphon valves inside them and the types of material used in making them. Some work better than others, while some mfg’s omit them to cheapen them up. It’s said that over ninety percent of engine wear & damage occurs during initial startup before full oil pressure is achieved. I want a filter that I know meets OEM micron spec and is full of oil with the correct valving when I hit the starter button.

Regarding a cam, it all depends on your setup and what you want to achieve. If you want a quick education and some hard truths, call Fuelmoto and they will walk you through the details on what works best together and what doesn’t. Be prepared to have your ego bruised with what you think you know but don’t. If you want true power, carefully listen to their advice and pay attention. They have been in the business for a long time and have proven setups with extensive dyno testing to back it up.

My trike started out as a 2020 Ultra Limited 114” M8 and I converted it with a Roadsmith kit. Based on Fuelmoto’s recommendation, I ended up putting in a Wood Performance WM8-22XE cam, 2-1-2 catless headpipe, Jackpot mufflers, AC/DC air cleaner, Screaming Eagle aluminum intake, NGK iridium plugs, and Powervision PV-2B tuner with a Fuelmoto supplied tune. It runs and sounds fantastic, better than I could have imagined.

 

[Notgrownup]

If you go to Fuelmotousa.com they have tons of comparisons on cams setups with dyno sheets. Oil ?.?? Well that will spark a debate. Use a good decent oil and change it at proper intervals. I would say with a Triglide you will want a can with low end torque instead of a high rev HP cam.

 

[chaser1602]

First just let me quickly mention this. I like to make jokes now n then. May not be funny to you but they are me. The what oil to run was facetious. So if you need to know mobil one is the best.

Read HD1USAs reply. Feel exactly the same. I got tired of chasing all the latest snake oils and their dealers. I even tried royal purple. They weren't even always available. Mobil 1 every 5000 miles on all 6 of my bikes has never been an issue for me at oriellys. Always there. If short advance and AZ to fall back on. I've read all the articles on filters. I DO NOT use fram even for my enemies. OEM for my harley''s and truck.
Notgrownup, thanks for the advice. I will look into them
YUKYUKYUK

 

[HDUSA1]

So you know about the glue on the end caps on Frams….

Sorry I didn’t realize you were joking! This forum is really laid back compared to some of the others I’m on. I’ve seen some really nasty oil threads in the past get out of hand and they absolutely bring out the worst in people. And BTW, I like Mobil 1 as well!

If you call Fuelmoto, you might try asking for Bob. He’ll ask you a few questions to get a feel for what you’re working with and help you identify what your expectations are. He’ll then give you a recommendation and answer any questions you have.

He kept me from making some really expensive mistakes with cam & exhaust that my H-D dealer was recommending, especially with the 4.5” Rineharts they were pushing. I was heading towards making a noisemaker and that’s not what I wanted. Instead, he saved me quite a bit of money and now I have a stump puller that pulls hard all the way to redline instead now. The guys I ride with can’t believe how good an M8 sounds when done right.

 

[Oldster]

Oil=Mobil 1 or Syn 3, Oil filter=OEM or Mobil 1!! However, what hasn't been mentioned is what weight oil. My owner's manual, 2024 tri-Glide, says for hot summer weather in St Louis I should use straight 50wght. I've always used 20w50 year around, but I may change this spring, haven't decided yet. I've never had an oil issue, but I've never kept a bike past 40.xxx miles either. How about it, any opinions? [ that was a dumb question LOL] And for cam selection etc., the Harley stage kits are pretty hard to beat, and you keep your warranty. I put a stage 3 in my last bike, and it was fantastic. I probably won't do anything to this bike but if I was going to, I'd do another stage 3

 

[Notgrownup]

I’ve actually run 15W50 from Napa for years n years and lo n behold, MOCO now started to suggest it. The biggest thing about oil is actually changing it. I like to save money but a few bucks more for the factory filter is ok. I’ve always used formula plus in the primary but tried the new gear gear oil they started to push. It does well and for the transmission, I’ve used 85w90 synthetic gear oil from the auto parts or Walmart.

My 114” pulls pretty good, I added the Fuelmoto stainless headpipe, S&S Grand National slip ons, a ventilator air cleaner and a power vision with a target tune from Fuelmoto. Bike runs good. I might eventually get a cam but it pulls so good already and I want to put a rake kit first so I’m picking my battles.

 

[HDUSA1]

“I might eventually get a cam but it pulls so good already and I want to put a rake kit first so I’m picking my battles.”

That’s an easy decision, Rake kit!!! Best money you’ll spend and you’ll be kicking yourself not doing it sooner!

Regarding the weight oil to use, they start out at whatever the lower number is, so a 20W50 will initially flow like a 20W and it’s easier to start a cold motor. As the oil heats up, the additive package causes it behave like the higher number 50W. If the oil is overheated, then it breaks down the additive package and it reverts back to the base stock oil and could even be lower than the 20W. A 20W in a really hot motor means a thin film cushion in the bearings and cam lobes and that’s when bad things happen.

I have never used anything but 20W50 in mine, but if I lived in a consistently 90 degree plus area and drove in a lot of stopped traffic with a nut roaster running bike that was frequently deactivating the rear cylinder, then I’d be using straight 50W.

On the converse, a 15W50 will start much easier in cold climates. Keep in mind you are relying heavily on the additive package to “bridge” a wider gap from 15 to 50 and there is more chance for it breaking down in higher temp areas. If I lived in Michigan but went to Daytona to ride during Bike Week, I might have to think about that.

Something to ponder…the base oil never breaks down in a motor. The reason you change it is because of the additive package and detergents in it wear out.

 

[Old Road Dog]

The best oil? The one you change every 3500 miles. That's right. Nothing extends the life of your motor more than clean oil. oil filter? See DK Customs oil filter relocation and cleanable filter. Cam? Take your pick- just make sure you change out that crummy inner cam bearing.

 

[chaser1602]

So you know about the glue on the end caps on Frams….

Sorry I didn’t realize you were joking! This forum is really laid back compared to some of the others I’m on. I’ve seen some really nasty oil threads in the past get out of hand and they absolutely bring out the worst in people. And BTW, I like Mobil 1 as well!

If you call Fuelmoto, you might try asking for Bob. He’ll ask you a few questions to get a feel for what you’re working with and help you identify what your expectations are. He’ll then give you a recommendation and answer any questions you have.

He kept me from making some really expensive mistakes with cam & exhaust that my H-D dealer was recommending, especially with the 4.5” Rineharts they were pushing. I was heading towards making a noisemaker and that’s not what I wanted. Instead, he saved me quite a bit of money and now I have a stump puller that pulls hard all the way to redline instead now. The guys I ride with can’t believe how good an M8 sounds when done right.

HaHa ya those fram's.Run run run
Just have to stir the pot once in awhile to keep people coming back. I guess I'll make a trip to fuelmoto
If I new I could use 4.5 mufflers.... I dont care anyway. I thought the biggest we could use were 4in so thats what I got
I love the way my SG with m-8 pulled out of the box. So I had to open it up a bit. Comp cam, hi flow oil pump, PV tuner a Fullsac head pipe with SE muffs and topped out with a dyno tune. Counts a pretty good lick idling thru the neighbor hood.
What weight oil should I use?

 

[chaser1602]

I’ve actually run 15W50 from Napa for years n years and lo n behold, MOCO now started to suggest it. The biggest thing about oil is actually changing it. I like to save money but a few bucks more for the factory filter is ok. I’ve always used formula plus in the primary but tried the new gear gear oil they started to push. It does well and for the transmission, I’ve used 85w90 synthetic gear oil from the auto parts or Walmart.

My 114” pulls pretty good, I added the Fuelmoto stainless headpipe, S&S Grand National slip ons, a ventilator air cleaner and a power vision with a target tune from Fuelmoto. Bike runs good. I might eventually get a cam but it pulls so good already and I want to put a rake kit first so I’m picking my battles.

That sounds like a good combo that I have'nt thought about. You wont beleive what a cam can do for that.

 

[Rogue1]

I’ve actually run 15W50 from Napa for years n years and lo n behold, MOCO now started to suggest it. The biggest thing about oil is actually changing it. I like to save money but a few bucks more for the factory filter is ok. I’ve always used formula plus in the primary but tried the new gear gear oil they started to push. It does well and for the transmission, I’ve used 85w90 synthetic gear oil from the auto parts or Walmart.

My 114” pulls pretty good, I added the Fuelmoto stainless headpipe, S&S Grand National slip ons, a ventilator air cleaner and a power vision with a target tune from Fuelmoto. Bike runs good. I might eventually get a cam but it pulls so good already and I want to put a rake kit first so I’m picking my battles.

Notgrownup, absolutely on the rake kit. I waited too long, what a difference

 

[David792]

You got a lot of replies on the oil and some on the cams. I have a 2018 M8. Bought it new from the dealer. I installed the HD SE 447 cam, and btw... if you do the cam do all the stuff around it while you're in there. I am very happy with the results. I can for sure feel the torque response when pulling hills or passing hog trucks on Highway 20.

It is not a race bike. It's a 107. They went to 114 for the 2019 models. I think if I had the 114 I would have left it alone.

 

[chaser1602]

You got a lot of replies on the oil and some on the cams. I have a 2018 M8. Bought it new from the dealer. I installed the HD SE 447 cam, and btw... if you do the cam do all the stuff around it while you're in there. I am very happy with the results. I can for sure feel the torque response when pulling hills or passing hog trucks on Highway 20.

It is not a race bike. It's a 107. They went to 114 for the 2019 models. I think if I had the 114 I would have left it alone.

I think the torque is awsome compared to anything stop they have put out. And be able to roll on from @ 2000 is something

 

[chaser1602]

I’ve actually run 15W50 from Napa for years n years and lo n behold, MOCO now started to suggest it. The biggest thing about oil is actually changing it. I like to save money but a few bucks more for the factory filter is ok. I’ve always used formula plus in the primary but tried the new gear gear oil they started to push. It does well and for the transmission, I’ve used 85w90 synthetic gear oil from the auto parts or Walmart.

My 114” pulls pretty good, I added the Fuelmoto stainless headpipe, S&S Grand National slip ons, a ventilator air cleaner and a power vision with a target tune from Fuelmoto. Bike runs good. I might eventually get a cam but it pulls so good already and I want to put a rake kit first so I’m picking my battles.

I have an 07 wide glide with redline in the trans and primary. Shoothes shifting bike I've ever owned. And I can probably find nuetral with my eyes closed. But it does have 68k on it

 

[chaser1602]

I am putting in a CR480 MT this coming Monday, and will be running Harley synthetic.

How'd that work out? Tuner?
Who is MT anyway. never heard of them

 

[chaser1602]

I’ve actually run 15W50 from Napa for years n years and lo n behold, MOCO now started to suggest it. The biggest thing about oil is actually changing it. I like to save money but a few bucks more for the factory filter is ok. I’ve always used formula plus in the primary but tried the new gear gear oil they started to push. It does well and for the transmission, I’ve used 85w90 synthetic gear oil from the auto parts or Walmart.

My 114” pulls pretty good, I added the Fuelmoto stainless headpipe, S&S Grand National slip ons, a ventilator air cleaner and a power vision with a target tune from Fuelmoto. Bike runs good. I might eventually get a cam but it pulls so good already and I want to put a rake kit first so I’m picking my battles.

Oriellys is less than a mile. And I get shop discount. Same at napa but they are lioke 3 miles away. Way to far lol

 

[GrumpyVet]

How'd that work out? Tuner?
Who is MT anyway. never heard of them

480MT means "Monster Torque", the cam is made by Cycle-Rama. It is the same as their original 480 cam just sooner and holds out longer. It's made for low-mid range torque. If you are chasing numbers, this isn't the cam for you, numbers on mine are just a bump from stock but it will now definitely"stump pull". Twist the wick and it grunts! Tuner is a Power Vision and was done by Those Dyno Guys in Pinellas Park, FL.

 

[Mykneesbehurtin]

I am running the S&S 465 cam and it makes tons of low end torque, peak torque is 106. But at 2300 rpm it is making 102 Ft lbs Torque. Also using the TTS tuner with full dyno run, stage 1 air cleaner and a Fullsac head pipe with SE mufflers.

 

[GrumpyVet]

480MT means "Monster Torque", the cam is made by Cycle-Rama. It is the same as their original 480 cam just sooner and holds out longer. It's made for low-mid range torque. If you are chasing numbers, this isn't the cam for you, numbers on mine are just a bump from stock but it will now definitely"stump pull". Twist the wick and it grunts! Tuner is a Power Vision and was done by Those Dyno Guys in Pinellas Park, FL.

 

[Gorilla]

Very Nice output