Broken tie-link bolt.

rhino 2

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Oct 15, 2011
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Bob
I pulled into my driveway to day and i heard a knocking sound i knew right away what it was.. Lose tie-link bolt's.. [They always loosen] But this time one of them sheared off flush at the bace of the head. So before i start to tear my barn apart looking for my easy-outs, I went the old school way by tapping the bolt counter clockwise with a flat head screwdriver couple taps and she spun out.. Quick trip to a hardware store two #8 9/16 bolts a little lock-tite and I'm back in business . I usually check them every thousand miles or so' This time i might of waited too long. :Shrug:
 

Yep as soon as i seen the broken bolt, I thought here we go.. This ain't gonna be fun..
But sometimes things go smooth..ThumbUp This is about the 4 Th. time in 33 thousand miles they came loose first time a bolt sheared off, If they losses again I'm breaking out my welder and tacking them so thell never loosen .. :gah:
 
What and where are the tie-link bolts? Is this something I need to look for and where to look for...13 TG w/23K miles. Thanks
 
What and where are the tie-link bolts? Is this something I need to look for and where to look for...13 TG w/23K miles. Thanks

It's in front and at the top of the front cylinder. The Tie-link holds the stabilizer-link.
Early on there were a few reports about them losing and shearing off the bolt/s.
And in one case damaging a valve cover.. It won't hurt to check them. A 9/16 box wench will fit them [Two bolts]
 
Is it here ??

- - - Updated - - -

The velvet link stabilizer will eliminate the bolt failures.
 

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That whole thing is part of the motor mount system. The 2 bolts he is referring to are the ones that bolt the bracket to the front top of the engine that has a stabiliser link to the frame off the top of the bracket. I have run across several bikes/trikes where these bolts are loose, gone. I have heard of them breaking off. My TRI right now has lost one of them. Because of the engine vibration they come loose. The real part that makes just slapping a new bolt in a proble is that there is a round spacer that goes between the bracket and the head which the bolt goes through, that gets lost also. I put lock washers on them and they still came loose.
 
That whole thing is part of the motor mount system. The 2 bolts he is referring to are the ones that bolt the bracket to the front top of the engine that has a stabiliser link to the frame off the top of the bracket. I have run across several bikes/trikes where these bolts are loose, gone. I have heard of them breaking off. My TRI right now has lost one of them. Because of the engine vibration they come loose. The real part that makes just slapping a new bolt in a proble is that there is a round spacer that goes between the bracket and the head which the bolt goes through that gets lost also., . I put lock washers on them and they still came loose.

Yea i got lucky the spacer somehow stayed with the bracket when the bolt sheared off..
 
Is it here ??

- - - Updated - - -

The velvet link stabilizer will eliminate the bolt failures.


You talk about the Velvet link stabilizer; what is that?? I have had to replace the right one and put a different spacer on (thicker one) and so far it's been good.
If I had independent suspension, this wouldn't be happening. the whole motor rocks sideways when going over rough roads or uneven type roads. I believe that combined with the torque from the engine is putting on a lot of strain to that particular bolt.
 
Link

You talk about the Velvet link stabilizer; what is that?? I have had to replace the right one and put a different spacer on (thicker one) and so far it's been good.
If I had independent suspension, this wouldn't be happening. the whole motor rocks sideways when going over rough roads or uneven type roads. I believe that combined with the torque from the engine is putting on a lot of strain to that particular bolt.

This is the link used for all FLH-FLT-FXR up to 2006 with top engine stabilizer between cylinder heads. It also works for 2007-2012 for the front upper stabilizer link replacement.
 

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This is the link used for all FLH-FLT-FXR up to 2006 with top engine stabilizer between cylinder heads. It also works for 2007-2012 for the front upper stabilizer link replacement.

I installed those and the upgraded front motor mount on both my FXR & FLHT, for me there was a noticeable difference, and well worth the money.
 
This is the link used for all FLH-FLT-FXR up to 2006 with top engine stabilizer between cylinder heads. It also works for 2007-2012 for the front upper stabilizer link replacement.

thank you for the info. I will visit and hope to get this link for my 2010 Triglide.
 
thank you for the info. I will visit and hope to get this link for my 2010 Triglide.

update to my missing link: Found one at the local Dealership and put it on. Noticed more rocking from side to side on a bad road in the Handlebars.
Went by my Mechanics shop and he said that I put it on right, soooooooo.....
Still wish I would of waited and got a Independent suspension kit.
oh well, just gotta stay off of the lumpy roads; which is hard to do here in Mich.:gah:
 
Rhino 2, glad I read your comment about the Tie-Link bolts, I had just got back from an afternoon ride yesterday when I read it and when I went out to check mine I found both loose. One bolt took at least a half turn to tighten and the other about a quarter turn, so thanks for your info.ThumbUp
I think I'm going to make a check list for my TG of all the bolts & things to keep an eye on that I have read about here on TT, thanks to everyone on TT.:wave4:
 
Rhino 2, glad I read your comment about the Tie-Link bolts, I had just got back from an afternoon ride yesterday when I read it and when I went out to check mine I found both loose. One bolt took at least a half turn to tighten and the other about a quarter turn, so thanks for your info.ThumbUp
I think I'm going to make a check list for my TG of all the bolts & things to keep an eye on that I have read about here on TT, thanks to everyone on TT.:wave4:

Yep, Thats why i carry a 9 1/16 box wrench in my trunk, The box wrench makes it easer to get on those bolts when the engine is hot, no slipping off and burning knuckles.ThumbUp If they come loose again you might want to pull them out, [Careful not to lose the spacers ] and add some lock-tight on them...
 
I have a question about this (velvet link stabilizer) Has anyone used one for any period of time after having broken bolt problems? Right now mine is in the shop again getting the broken bolt out for the third time in the last 8,000 miles. They have to remove the head again to get at the bolt hole. I'm really hoping that there is a cure for this problem. I'm kinda wondering if there is something worn out in the rear engine/trike mounting system. I have a 2009 Triglide with 53,000 miles.
Thanks for any input.
 
I don't know about the velvet link.....Last week mine loosen up a hair again.. So i pulled out the replacement bolts [had lock-tite on them], And now I'm trying Flange bolts #8... 9/16 head- 3/8 -16X 1-1/4 This time I'm using # 268 STICK [Permanent?] Lock-tite.., When one of my bolts broke i got it out without removing the head by tapping the bolt counter clockwise with a chisel and hammer..
 
I built a 2013 FLHR trike in 2012. It is on the eastern shore of Maryland. I spoke with him last week and I questioned him on that link in particular.

He has the Velvet link and after 32,000 miles it is fine. Never had any broken bolts.

I guess Harley will admit their might be an issue when they admit to a hot back cylinder.:pepper::pepper:
 
I had the link and the bolt broke off in the head. The link also broke the hemi type joint at the mount end.
 
Lock tite

I could be wrong, but I thought lock tite was a liquid plastic of some type. If I remember, if used and you wanted to remove the bolt or nut, you had to heat the object that had been lock tited. Head temp could be too hot for that stuff to work :Shrug:
 
I could be wrong, but I thought lock tite was a liquid plastic of some type. If I remember, if used and you wanted to remove the bolt or nut, you had to heat the object that had been lock tited. Head temp could be too hot for that stuff to work :Shrug:

300 degrees F... Working temps... Don't know how hot the bolts in that part of the front head gets... :Shrug:
But like the Old sailors credo... Any port in a storm...
 
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