Brake help, anyone

[Red]

My 2006 Motortrike Scooter (Honda Shadow Aero) has rear drum brakes and they are the pits. I also have a Champion conversion on a HD Roadking and the rear discs are great. Soooo

Anyone know what Motortrike used on that trike? Ever heard of successfully converting from drums to discs? We had air leak issues first, but husband seems to have traced that down and fixed it, but they still are very weak and you have to practically stand on them to get anything out of them. He says something's wrong with them and more than anything else would love to be able to convert them to discs, but he can't even tell or find out from Motortrike what these are to try and fix these much less try that.
Any info or ideas would be huge help

 

[Yogisan]

If you're sure you no longer have air in the break lines or the pistons then I suggest you check the adjustment on the brakes. They're shoe/drum brakes just like a car and can wear down to a point where the pistons don't have enough travel to get the shoes to contact the drum properly. When that happens it usually doesn't mean the shoes need replacing, just adjusting. They are adjusted the same way car brakes are done. No big deal. You might need to get a brake adjustment tool but they're usually only $8-10, maybe less. That's what mine cost at Auto Zone. Get the tool, get a jack and adjust them. You can Google instructions if you don't know how. :yes:

 

[Gorilla]

Red if you earch disk brake conversion on this forum there are several threads on the subject.

 

[Red]

Husband tried the adjustment today and while they are 'useable' they aren't anywhere near good or even decent. I'll look for the conversion threads, but like I said it didn't sound promising on the general internet
Thanks for the replies

 

[FLTR2008TRIKE]

One way I adjust my rear drum brakes on my Motortrike kit is to remove the rear wheels, pull the tires off and the drums off. Turn the slack adjuster out enough so when Im putting the drum back on there has to be some slight pressure applied pushing inward on the brake shoes to allow the drum to slip over them. If your rear brakes are still weak you could possibley have a bad rear brake master cylinder

 

[Red]

One way I adjust my rear drum brakes on my Motortrike kit is to remove the rear wheels, pull the tires off and the drums off. Turn the slack adjuster out enough so when Im putting the drum back on there has to be some slight pressure applied pushing inward on the brake shoes to allow the drum to slip over them. If your rear brakes are still weak you could possibley have a bad rear brake master cylinder

I tried that just yesterday and while it helped a little and I can stop using the rears only as a test, it requires mega pressure at the foot. Also, I have decent resistance at the pedal and no spongy feel ever since last May when I semi-rebuilt the rear master, so I don't think it's that. I was thinking of using an old master that I have from one of my bikes or buying a new one and rigging it up, but it's wasted money if that doesn't do it.
If I had to guess what the problem is, I'd say it's one of the hydraulic shoe spreaders or something in the brake itself.

 

[Papa Zook]

Red-
I've sold about 30 of the Motor Trike Shadow 750s over the years and never really had a problem with brakes. If they'll stop a mustang, they should stop a motorcycle, that is IF everything is working properly. Sounds like your problem definitely lies either in the master cylinder or one or both of the brake cylinders, given that the pads are good, they're adjusted properly and the system is bled properly.

Changing the brake cylinders isn't very difficult and the replacement mustang parts can be found at most any auto parts store for around $10-$20 each. I dont know the exact year model or parts number because I never had to change any, but you can get that info from MotorTrike by calling Richard Graham at 1-800-90-TRIKE.

If you should get to the point of changing them, when your pull them off, roll back the rubber dust boot on each end to see if brake fluid is pooling inside the boot, if it is change the cylinder. I say this because sometimes they can stick or even have some bleed though leakage and you wont know it if the fluid is collecting in the rubber boot.

FYI, "Calman" who is an active member here on the board owns and has ridden a MT Shadow 750 all over the USA numerous times, had similar ongoing issues with his rear brakes. I think his eventual fix was to change out the rear brake lines as he had a leak. He would be a good person to contact about his issues and eventual fix. Or if he sees this post maybe he'll chime in on this thread. I'll PM him now to give him a heads up.

Heres a pretty good YouTube Video on replacing your wheel cylinders.
​

How To Replace Brake Wheel Cylinders - YouTube

 

[Jimsjinx]

Something I learned from a good mechanic recently was, drum brakes are next to impossible to adjust if the drum has any "lip" worn into them. A little cleanup on a brake lathe will cut this rim of unworn metal off and make adjustments much more effective. Just sayin... jimsjinx

 

[Red]

Lot's of help here. I can't get much done on Mon-Wed due to work hours but I'll go out on Thurs and see what I can do, then post results. Before that I'll give that number at Motortrike a call and see if he can tell me wheel and brake types.
Thanks

 

[Papa Zook]

Lot's of help here. I can't get much done on Mon-Wed due to work hours but I'll go out on Thurs and see what I can do, then post results. Before that I'll give that number at Motortrike a call and see if he can tell me wheel and brake types.
Thanks

Id talk to Richard at MT about his experience with your problem and see what he suggests before you do anything.

 

[Red]

Good idea. I'm going to call him today and see what he has to say

 

[Calman]

Still don't know what causes my brakes to lose fluid. Replaced everything from and including the master cylinder back to the wheels. Note: Each time we pulled the tires off they were dry. Resigned myself to checking master cylinder every couple days and fill it up.

Last week I got on the Shadow in Jacksonville, NC after a PGR run and found I had no rear brakes at all. Rode home (75 miles) using only the front brake and lots of prayer. Sunday AM I filled master cylinder and hit the brake peddle a couple times. Looked under the Shadow a saw a steady stream of DOT-4 brake fluid.

Shadow currently in local shop to see if they can figure it out. Doubt if I hear anything until next week since Hurricane Irene is due to visit this weekend.

 

[Red]

I think I will try Bazooka's fix for now by heading to the parts store with one of the old cylinders in hand. for twenty bucks I'll do them both, but as it looks like Calman and others can attest the system has been fraught with problems from day one. Could've guessed it as Alex at Skylands was rebuilding a set on one of the same model on day when I went to see him, and he was sporting a nice new scar on his face once from almost stabbing himself in the eye with a needle nose plier while rehooking the springs after doing another.
Regardless, unless that does it once and for all, I have contacted another forum member who is very up on converting to disk brakes and is willing to assist with advice, instructions and more and he's willing to guide me through the process. I have learned that Willwood makes an exact conversion kit for that wheel-axle set up and while it may be a bit pricey all the parts are right there so I'm looking into that too.
It's kind of wierd that Calman who rides the heck out of his and is the example of a guy who got things straightened up, is still having trouble with these same brakes, and that is another thing that makes me more dubious about retaining the da-n things. They seem like a real:Turkey:

 

[Calman]

The replacement master cylinder I used came from JEGS. Couldn't find the line(s), which run from the M/C to the drums locally, so I got them from MotorTrike.