BLEEDING linked brakes...FLRT 2017

[Jude4976]

Does anyone have the procedure for bleeding linked brake system on the FLRT? Oh yes I am new!

 

[paws]

Welcome to TrikeTalk Jude...from the Texas Hill Country.

Someone will be along soon with some answers. In the meantime feel free to search the website...plenty of info out here.

 

[rhino 2]

Does anyone have the procedure for bleeding linked brake system on the FLRT? Oh yes I am new!

Jude.......Welcome to Trike-Talk.......:wave4:....We have a member here on Trike-Talk..

Jack Klarich....If/When he see's this post he'll have the answers you need...

 

[Jack Klarich]

Hi Jude, :welcome:to Trike Talk

Does your Freewheeler have ABS? If Not look here,

Start in the front left, then front right. Those are the most forward bleed screws on the Freewheeler caliper.

The 2 aft bleed screws on the front calipers are for the rear master cylinder. Then you move to the rear wheels.

 

[Gorilla]

jude welcome

 

[Jack Klarich]

Jude, this may be a better explanation for bleeding your brakes. Before you start, suck out as much old fluid as you can. You may notice some slime floating in the fluid and or some graying of the fluid. This is from assembly fluid @ the manufacture site of the components.

You can use a lint free rag to wipe out the master cylinder. Then proceed to bleed the brakes being careful not to run the master cylinder dry.

Front- left

Front-right

------------------------------

If you continue to do rear brakes :

Front - left (lower bleeder)

Front - right (lower bleeder)

Rear left

Rear right

 

[N8DC]

Jude, this may be a better explanation for bleeding your brakes. Before you start, suck out as much old fluid as you can. You may notice some slime floating in the fluid and or some graying of the fluid. This is from assembly fluid @ the manufacture site of the components.

You can use a lint free rag to wipe out the master cylinder. Then proceed to bleed the brakes being careful not to run the master cylinder dry.

Front- left

Front-right

------------------------------

If you continue to do rear brakes :

Front - left (lower bleeder)

Front - right (lower bleeder)

Rear left

Rear right

Just found this thread . Been trying to figure out my new to me FW for a couple weeks now . I guess tomorrow I will bleed the rears again the right way .
Dave

 

[14TG]

Just found this thread . Been trying to figure out my new to me FW for a couple weeks now . I guess tomorrow I will bleed the rears again the right way .
Dave

Hi Dave!
Welcome to the best Trike Forum!!

I have a 2014 Tri Glide, but also have a similar “linked brake system” on mine. Also, I do NOT have ABS either.
So please consult your service manual to be sure my info attached below is the same as yours…
Your FW should have ABS… but standard bleeding sequence should be the same.
Now… bleeding the ABS unit correctly usually requires either the dealer or an Indy with a computer program to flush/bleed the ABS system,…. BUT there is also a “street cheat” that also works.

• Bleed the brakes as mentioned…
• Ride the trike on the road and “activate” (slam on the brakes and make the ABS kick in) 5-6 times… this will “push” the old fluid out of the ABS module.
• Bring it back into your garage after that, and re-bleed your system just as you did the first time.

This way you get ALL the old fluid out including what’s inside the ABS module.

It’s a little bit of a pain in the butt, but still cheaper than taking it to a dealer. Many prefer to still take to a dealer because it’s slightly intimidating, but your only cost to do it yourself it is your time and only the cost of the brake fluid.

Attached are two screenshots off my 2014 Trike Supplement service manual:
Use as reference for the “bleeding sequence”




Keep us posted!!!
-Brett

 

[N8DC]

Hi Dave!
Welcome to the best Trike Forum!!

I have a 2014 Tri Glide, but also have a similar “linked brake system” on mine. Also, I do NOT have ABS either.
So please consult your service manual to be sure my info attached below is the same as yours…
Your 2017 FW should have ABS… but standard bleeding sequence should be the same.
Now… bleeding the ABS unit correctly usually requires either the dealer or an Indy with a computer program to flush/bleed the ABS system,…. BUT there is also a “street cheat” that also works.

• Bleed the brakes as mentioned…
• Ride the trike on the road and “activate” (slam on the brakes and make the ABS kick in) 5-6 times… this will “push” the old fluid out of the ABS module.
• Bring it back into your garage after that, and re-bleed your system just as you did the first time.

This way you get ALL the old fluid out including what’s inside the ABS module.

It’s a little bit of a pain in the butt, but still cheaper than taking it to a dealer. Many prefer to still take to a dealer because it’s slightly intimidating, but your only cost to do it yourself it is your time and only the cost of the brake fluid.

Attached are two screenshots off my 2014 Trike Supplement service manual:
Use as reference for the “bleeding sequence”

View attachment 131858View attachment 131859


Keep us posted!!!
-Brett

Will do. The wife and I just went out and did a quick bleed starting at the front. We did the manual pump type bleed. Its better but there is still air in the system so tomorrow we will go after it again. Thanks for the info. The fronts and the clutch are a piece of cake since the M/C is above the bleeders. I do have a vacuum bleeder also but decided to do the pump routine.
Dave

 

[14TG]

Will do. The wife and I just went out and did a quick bleed starting at the front. We did the manual pump type bleed. Its better but there is still air in the system so tomorrow we will go after it again. Thanks for the info. The fronts and the clutch are a piece of cake since the M/C is above the bleeders. I do have a vacuum bleeder also but decided to do the pump routine.
Dave

Sounds good.
If you did get air in the line, be patient as it can be a real pain to finally get that air out, especially with the ABS !
It may seriously take numerous bleeding cycles!

 

[N8DC]

Sounds good.
If you did get air in the line, be patient as it can be a real pain to finally get that air out, especially with the ABS !
It may seriously take numerous bleeding cycles!

No ABS but still a PITA . Going back at it again today .
Dave

 

[ctdair]

A tip I saw elsewhere that makes sense but I haven’t tried myself. After you are done bleeding secure the lever and pedal in the applied position and leave over night. In theory this will allow any air left to work itself towards the calipers.
Open bleeders and see if there isn’t a slight air release.

 

[N8DC]

A tip I saw elsewhere that makes sense but I haven’t tried myself. After you are done bleeding secure the lever and pedal in the applied position and leave over night. In theory this will allow any air left to work itself towards the calipers.
Open bleeders and see if there isn’t a slight air release.

I did just that last night and we shall see
Dave

 

[N8DC]

A tip I saw elsewhere that makes sense but I haven’t tried myself. After you are done bleeding secure the lever and pedal in the applied position and leave over night. In theory this will allow any air left to work itself towards the calipers.
Open bleeders and see if there isn’t a slight air release.

This works . I can verify it ! I went out this morning and I had a good pedal. It may take a bit more bleeding but I am leaving it as is for a bit and see how it all works out . If it makes 65 here Thursday as they say I am riding a bit !
Dave

 

[14TG]

This works . I can verify it ! I went out this morning and I had a good pedal. It may take a bit more bleeding but I am leaving it as is for a bit and see how it all works out . If it makes 65 here Thursday as they say I am riding a bit !
Dave

Great news!!!

 

[N8DC]

Great news!!!

Ya I am celebrating with a cold one right now.

 

[pwhoever]

A tip I saw elsewhere that makes sense but I haven’t tried myself. After you are done bleeding secure the lever and pedal in the applied position and leave over night. In theory this will allow any air left to work itself towards the calipers.
Open bleeders and see if there isn’t a slight air release.

This is a also similar trick that has helped many Goldwingers with soft rear brake pedal or clutch lever. Attach some kind of weight to rear brake pedal to hold it down or pull clutch lever and use Velcro to hold it. Any air in system will work it's way out. But I know on the Goldwings, it works the opposite. Since the MC for both rear brake and clutch on them are the highest spot in system, the air will move to the master cylinder.