Before I

Okay I do have the series of wet/dry paper needed, I had just been doing dry up to this point, but I just do not know when it is good enough to really finish out, guess not a time to be a perfectionist.

Now does one work the metal and remove the mill finish before doing a pattern and cutting it out ?

I ask because that is what I started doing with the rocker plates. I actually have done those by hand with 80 grit on the block, but a few pass with the 50grit (correction as it was what I bought not 40 ) on the Vibrating sander, LOL, another correction as no one calls them shuffle sanders. Do not ask where that came from, still trying to figure it out.

Have to help the neighbor this morning, maybe I can get something else done in the day.

Be good and ride safe everyone.
 
It might be easier to rough it in before cutting. But I did not, I started after cutting.

I roughed in with a 3m pad on a grinder.

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Here is a part with a portion roughed in.

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After this it was all wet standing down to 1000 grit.

Then the buffing wheel and compound for large parts and hand rag and mothers for smaller parts.
 
Sure do admire the soft shine that stainless gives with some finish work......I'm not a big fan of chrome...would take the hand finished ss any day.....that said, I picked up the rattle can of satin black and hit the button, took the easy way out.:D
 
I do agree Larry, but I have issues and I have to be doing something all the time, so it seems.

So I looked at the work taking up time and the finish work on the metal would keep my hands busy for hours.

Had found a water leak in the wall yesterday, so had to get a new faucet and get it installed and clean up the water mess. Guess now the wife is wanting the back faucet replaced also. Not a bad idea as it is nice weather still and in a few weeks it won't be.

Than I hit the sink with sand paper in hand, at least that is the plan for now.

Have a great day and a better week end everyone. Catch some bugs if you can:D
 
My days and nights were not good over the weekend. Leaking pipes and a shut off valve that would not totally close for me. Any ways it took a few tries of different things before I got some air hose for the fish tank to slide down the pipe so I could suck all the water out, than all went together as it should have. Spent Sunday cleaning up all my mess. Still have one more access door to mount, but water is on with no leaks and life in the home is almost back on track.

So I did take and get some wet sanding done yesterday afternoon. Got up to 400 grit and just did not like some pits and discoloring still on the surface. Oh yes, I could see my ugly mug and grey hair in the reflection of the brake stay. Anyway I listened to myself and took the brake stay out to the garage for another heavy sanding. I do have one deeper pit that I do not think I will get out, but if all the shallower ones get removed I will think I can live with it.

Every one have a great week, colder weather is getting here faster than we want.
 
I hear ya.

I also have a pit here and there that did not sand out.

It is easy to get sucked down that rabbit hole of "I might as well do xxxx while it is apart".

It all takes time.
 
Okay I am a little excited, I went on the run to find a machinist who would do the work I needed done.

No luck in the local area's, like all closed up or changed what they are doing, so went to the welding supply store to get some SS rods and ask if they knew of any shops..... paid off big time.

So they are going to mill down the fork bars for me and align/drill rocker holes and later cut the bars to length as needed.

Monday afternoon I will see the machinist and see if he wants to turn down the bars for the 39mm trees, or just in large the tree fork hole dia., or a little of both. His partner kind a like the idea of turning the trees to fit the fork bar dia. Also can get the rockers water jet cut, if I remember it correctly. Again will confirm that on Monday as the machinist might just cut them and I get to do all the clean up and final shaping to the pattern line. Depends on that quoted price, again on Monday.

So my press, or bit, egged out the 1" hole a bit, the new bit I got drilled out a nice 1" dia. hole, but the bushing fits snug and spins...........disappointed, but I found a 27mm OD bushing with a 22mm ID, so back in business as the machine shop will make it right for the press fit bushing, also they are doing up the step spacer, and probably the axle as I am thinking a custom made one so I can put acorn nuts on each side.

I spent the afternoon sanding out the brake stay. I spent the other day, most all day, with the 50 grit going over it and over it, yes I changed my paper, and in the end I worked that pit to pin point.

Now it is not noticeable after using the 400 grit in the sink.

20181102_163652.jpg

20181102_163701.jpg

I forgot that before I spent a day sanding I drilled the hole for the brake retention arm. All parts should be here Monday hopefully so I can take them to the machine shop. 1/4" x 20 thread is what it will be tapped to and I will use a should bolt to mount the arm to both the stay and the main fork.

So I still have 600, 800, 1000, 1500, and 2000 grit wet sanding to do. I think it is worth all the work, and than I get to do the rockers.
 
Good news on finding a local machine shop.

This what I would do.....waterjet the profile and pilot holes for the tight fitting holes and full size for through bolts. Then ream the tight fit holes on the knee mill.
 
You are educating us all well Rex, that is if you are wanting to do it right so all last a long time.

And I thought it was just drill a hole and push the bushing in, it would work if you knew the exact drill bore and bushing dia., but like I said, just drilled holes and thought all fits, LOL , live and learn.

The machinist is going to take a 27mm OD bushing I bought and press fit it in the brake stay after he does the final work to my rough cut hole. It is just a bit loose for the 26mm OD bushing.

I will see them in the morning, than I will find out more, hope all have a good night.
 
Things are going, now I am waiting on the machine shop to get the work done, than I get to do more.

Checking the mock up again and I cut my tube legs to short as I was checking out the 41mm set of trees.

So had spent yesterday running around trying to find new stock for the main legs, got it, now to set the rocker's today and maybe get some else done.

I have to go with the 39mm narrow tree's, just not enough room under the body for the wider 12 inch spread of the 41mm forks. My son helped me yesterday with the body and what not so I could see if they would work, only if I go down the road straight with very slight curves, just not enough room for the trees when turning the front tire.

So much still to get done.
 
A bit of an update on how it is all going.

I was able to get my rockers cut out via waterjet, the cost for the pair was 60.00-----shop cost of course.

The brake stay is completed, well except I have a few new pit marks from the shop work that I will have to work out so all can be polished up (I just hope I can get them out)

Holes drilled in rockers was delayed because the shop dog at my paper work, four pages, so I had to do some over and make new copies for the machinist. He is a big old hound dog who loves the scent of my female dogs, LOL

Things seem to be slower than I want, but the Holidays have me doing so much more, so it is a good thing I guess.

Enjoy the Holidays everyone, and remember to keep safe at whatever you do.......:Santa:
 
So all is done at the machine shop and I have it all in the garage now.

I decided to do the fine fitting of the bushings myself. It is time consuming and I save $ if I do it. Oh so much fun working a little, stop to see if it fits, than more work and checking. I got one axle hole done on one rocker and almost done with the second one. Then I have to fit 4 bushings into the rockers. This finer work also does show me what other fine adjustments I need.

The brake stay bushing does not come out the backside of the brake stay far enough. Right now the back side of the brake stay will be pinched up against the hub bearing spacer. This pinch effect will keep the stay from freely rotating when all is bolted together. I will get the step spacer milled back a fine bit so the brake stay will rotate freely as needed with out being pinched between spacers.

Oh and I made the measurments of the front down tubes to tight, some say no, but if all did bunch up from impact, well the rockers will bend bind on the down tubes, so a little extra work on those to give me more room.

Other than that it is all looking good. I hope getting all else done does not take me to much longer. It is a pain, but I get to work with my hands and that I do enjoy, just takes so long to get it done, LOL

I need to feel that wind in my face and the freedom of the road again.

Please do ride safe my friends.
 
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Yes, one should get their work done faster at a machine shop, especially if you pay their price for labor.

I keep forgetting to tell why it took so long at the shop. I did not pay top labor price, in fact I paid very little for the work to get done. I just had to wait until they had the time to get to it for me. I was honest with them and so they helped me out so that I could get this project done. It took me some time, but it did get done and I am excited to finish the project.

Spring is trying to poke her head out, so soon many will be riding, remember

Be safe and ride safer.:D

I thank everyone for their support and help with this project.
 
Yep.

As you know, I have an industrial shop.

I do little things for friends and even a few walk ins for local folks. It is an "as I can get to it" type thing just like you say. I have one friend I cut knife blades for every once in a while. The 2 engineering research development center robotics teams I host at the shop on the rare Saturday off. Then I have the college rov robotics team I help during the week as I can.
 
I know, I just wish I lived closer to you so that I could have gotten you to do the machine work.

All in all it has worked out so far. I got some work done so I could do my part as more work was done on other parts. I need to finish up the rockers so I can get the bushings pressed in. 500lb press is not in my garage, LOL, just the hand and vise, which did set the brake stay bushing.

I knew it was going to take some work, but I am actually working on the last bushing hole right now, so should be doing the last of the finish type sanding today and tomorrow. If I get a warm day I can use the buffer machine, but the piece needs to be ready for it. Than there is all my nuts I have to polish out. Man my hands and arms get tired by the end of the day, but to me it is worth it.

Again thank you to everyone here at the site.
 
So Thursday I took a fall. I hit the corner of the table and dislocated my right shoulder. Took way to long to get reset and I'm very sore and one handed. Idid pick the fork bars, as I decided I wanted longer mounting tabs so to prevent binding when all is bottomed out. One more buffing run on the rocker's and they are done.

20190316_050749 (2).jpg

I just like how all is finishing out.

20190316_050720 (2).jpg

I had the machinist take off more at the end of the roundness(by a 1/4 inch)so the rocker has more swing room with out binding. It was tight and right, but no extra room, so had it done.

Once my arm heals and I have usage of it, well the fun begins.:D
 
This is going tobe hard, at least 7 days with one arm and hand. These pics show rocker swing.

This will be the ride position of the rocker's, ( 90 degree's from the fork line )

20190316_134934 (3).jpg

And now as it travels back to compressed state.

20190316_134958 (3).jpg

With the extra clearance now the rocker should not ever bottom out on the fork bar.

20190316_134944 (3).jpg

I had to do something,lol :D
 
So had a check up yesterday, seems I busted up the rotator cup, surgery is scheduled for Monday. The idea is to repair the area so that I may get 75 to 90% of total usage back. Some fall in the kitchen, damn hard wood floors, lol.

Thank you all.
 
wow, it does hurt and a painful process, that agreed. Apparently the force I went down with shattered the cup into 3 peices and all worried how to do things. Found out my past years of medication has changed my bone density, so I can not be screwed together, maybe glued together,lol.

I can only do as they say and pray for the best. Surgery is still on the table, but have to see how part of me heels first, and if needed or will it benefit the injury.

Be safe, ride even safer my friends.:D
 
I had a check up yesterday, healing is doing good. I did some muscle damage, no nerve damage, so once all soft tissue heals and I can move more, than we see if surgery is needed. This will take to damn long, but yesterday I counted my blessings because I am alive.

Okay I have tried to get something done. Setting rockers and measuring distance's for proper fitting of the shoulder bolts, and how all sets on the axle. Not the best, but it has given me something to do. Soon I hope I can polish more.:)
 
Dont over do it. Let yourself heal. If it means the project has to wait.....so be it.

What you need now is some young buck that wants to get his hands dirty....
 
It has been three weeks since the shoulder injury, well the checkup should healing and what not, so now I am doing light physical therapy at home on my own. I am waiting for the appt. with the local physical therapist, but at least I have something to do with my time during the day now, LOL.

Have been playing with the rear pivot bolt of rockers. Trying to get that fine clearance that allows the rocker to move, but it is not been working for me. Limited shim thickness, so I play with the combinations of the two sizes trying to get it right.

So looks like to get this magic clearance I will have to file down, or sand, the bronze washer until I get that fine clearance that is needed.

Now I am not a fan of these Nordic lock washers, at least at this stage they do not seem to grip and hold like they claim, but all my act different under the load of the fork tubes pushing down and the wheel pulling the rockers upward. I can tighten them so they do not move, but it is to tight for rocker movement. First things first, need to get that fine clearance and than see how all will react. I figured I would just lay the washer between to sanding blocks and work them back and forth to remove material, should work and worth the try.

:D Good morning to everyone, so I re read the section on rockers and the shoulder bolt and the way I am using them. I am suppose to have a little shoulder bolt shaft extend out of the rocker bushing, one side has very little exposed bolt shaft, just enough for the bronze washer to hang on, so I figured a few shims, but my I forgot the smaller size steel washer of the threaded section. This steel washer push's up against the shims so all is tight, but a fine clearance is needed for the rocker to move properly.

The other side is too short, not right, and that tube's pivot flange is a bit thicker than I wanted, at least I am getting somewhere with it all.
 
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The fun has begun. So in playing more I discovered that the rear pivot holes in the down tubes are not as tight as they should be, so it was enough to allow me to be off when setting those rear shoulder bolts, not at first but after some rocker movement things change that slight amount. Those I can not get the axle to feed smoothly thru all correctly.

Amazing how tight I got all figured out and how just a bit larger than planned can screw things up.

Still waiting to hear back on what we are going to do to fix the issue.
 
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So I had to do something, but it all had to be done with the left arm and very little help with the right hand, at least at first.

Today the right side has gotten a little bit free in movement, some home physical therapy is working apparently.

Fenderbrace.jpg

The fork bars are not at a 48 degree angle, so all does not really look like it will when all attached to trike.

The reaction arm for the brake stay turns out to be a bit to wide to mount on the inner side of the stay which than allowed a straight alignment to the inside of the fork bar, mounted it to the outside for now and if this is how it will mount I will have to have a offset reaction arm so either inner or outer side of fork bar. A super low profile head shoulder bolt just might allow it to mount on the inner side of the stay, something I need to check out.

The entire set up should look close to this position, the brake setup will be centered above axle and fender's exact location probably is more set by the pivot links at the top of the fender, still need to get them. Seen a kit on ebay for 79,77, and 59.00 dollars, but none are listed for a narrow glide front end, so I wonder about making what is needed.

pivotkit.jpg

Big helpful answer that I need...………. How does one attach the metal fender support arm to the fiberglass metal ?

Oh I am sure of a few ways, but more looking for the recommended better way.

My mind said a solid support that actually bent over the tire and down to the other side, a large U shape. As the fender does have a center mounting hole that I thought I would use to anchor the two parts together. Glass fill over the top area so all could be shaped nicely and hide it.

Or do this, but shortly after coming out of the fender, say a inch or so, you have the straight upright support bolt to the cut off edge of the fender's center support bracket. This would allow the assembly of it all to be a bit easier, just the same maybe taking it off later.

I personally like the idea of the fender and support arms being all one piece. And yes I am choosing to go with two upright support arms off the axle bearing hub spacers, I just never thought about going off the brake stay and a look I did not care for.

so is there a secure way for me to attach a left and right support arm to the inside of the fiber glass fender.

Do you just use some cat hair and resin and coat it into place, or cloth and resin over the metal after securing it , bolts and nut's, or a super adhesive and than the cloth and resin work ???
 
Gramps

How weird??? I was just looking at your thread at the same time I got your e from trike talk, :laugh: I was looking at this in my yahoo search, Springer disc set up.jpgAre you going to make the fg fender? or buy it off the internet? I bought mine from a Glasser at a swap meet he has all sizes so just told him the width that was needed and I trimmed to fit, some extra glassing needed for the mounting area and a metal plate inside for extra strength, painted the inside flat black... BUTT I am one for looks in my builds and I do not like the look of the caliper in the photo but the photo shows the mounting of all...I hope this helps if not hit me up again no problem...
 
I dunno.....

If I remember correctly my original goldwing fender, which was on goldwing forks, had a steel liner riveted around the inside of it.

On my springer I chose a metal fender to work with.
 

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