Applying the brakes?

rmrc51

Lost In The 50's
Feb 2, 2009
4,172
148
Palmyra, VA
Name
Rich
I just saw this comment on another Goldwing forum regarding applying the brakes;

"I don't use the foot petal that much unless I'm hard stopping.
My understanding of the system is the hand brake puts a % of braking to the rear wheel.
"

Is this true? That applying the hand brake for the front tire also applies a certain percentage of braking to the rear wheel (or in our case, rear wheels)?? This sounds 'highly' doubtful to me. I always apply my foot brake with my hand brake. This was supposedly on a 2010 model.
 
I just rechecked my 08 GW with a champion kit. I only have lines going from the foot brake to the back brake. No lines from the hand brake to the back brake.

I kinda thought so. This is the first time I ever heard of the front brake also supplying some pressure to the rear wheel. Maybe on a 2 wheeler, but not on a trike. I'm pretty sure the Roadsmith is the same as your Champion.
 
I know on my CSC conversion for my 2004 the foot brake still engages the front brake so my unified braking system still is operable. Maybe others are, I don't know..I don;t think any year Wing front brake ever engaged the rear either 2 or 3 wheels
 
Some trikes leave the original brake system intact, meaning the brakes ARE linked. Roadsmith does not and de-links the system so that front brake only applies front brakes and foot pedal only applies rear brakes. Not sure what each kit does.

That said, if my brakes were still linked I would use both front and rear.
 
OEM linked system is 70/30 percent. Front control does apply 30% to rear and rear control applies 30% to the front. That is if the other control is not used at the same time. If you want more effective stopping power then both controls must be used in unison. How much one uses each control is their personal decision....

Some trike kits do indeed leave the linked system in operation. My Motor Trike Adventure is one of them. I use both controls. To me it gives a smoother and more positive slowdown/stop.
 
Some trikes leave the original brake system intact, meaning the brakes ARE linked. Roadsmith does not and de-links the system so that front brake only applies front brakes and foot pedal only applies rear brakes. Not sure what each kit does.

That said, if my brakes were still linked I would use both front and rear.

Champion de-links the system also and if you have ABS on your 2 wheeler as I did, you will no longer when you convert. Not linking the brake system doesn't bother me, but what does is my rear brakes are barely adaquate. If I stand on the rear brake pedal I doubt I could skid the tires. From what I've heard, the reason for this is because they use the original master cylinder for the rear brakes which are designed for a single wheel or caliper. They say that the master cylinder doesn't have the capacity to supply enough volumn for 2 calipers and this makes sense to me.
 
Champion de-links the system also and if you have ABS on your 2 wheeler as I did, you will no longer when you convert. Not linking the brake system doesn't bother me, but what does is my rear brakes are barely adaquate. If I stand on the rear brake pedal I doubt I could skid the tires. From what I've heard, the reason for this is because they use the original slave cylinder for the rear brakes which are designed for a single wheel or caliper. They say that the slave cylinder doesn't have the capacity to supply enough volumn for 2 calipers and this makes sense to me.

I don't know who they is but I know they is full of it. I have no problems locking up my rear tires. They work great, hardly ever use the front brake unless I want to do a full stop real fast then it's front and rear brakes together. You probably need to bleed your rear brakes. Just a little air in those lines and you will get poor braking.
 
I don't know who they is but I know they is full of it. I have no problems locking up my rear tires. They work great, hardly ever use the front brake unless I want to do a full stop real fast then it's front and rear brakes together. You probably need to bleed your rear brakes. Just a little air in those lines and you will get poor braking.

Thanks Stephen, I'll give it a try as my rear brakes aren't anywhere near what they were on 2 wheels.
 
The original GL1800 had linked brakes, as has been noted. 70/30 front/back when the front brake lever is actuated. When conversions are done, different manufacturers approach the brakes differently with some keeping the linked brakes and others de-linking and using the front brake lever for just the front brakes and pedal for the rear. The reason they do it different is the thinking that the rear master cylinder would not be all that effective on two large auto-type calipers. The wing original had a two-pot caliper the master cylinder was sized to work so you can't expect top-notch braking with a small, motorcycle master cylinder. Just not enough hydraulic leverage.
 
The original GL1800 had linked brakes, as has been noted. 70/30 front/back when the front brake lever is actuated. When conversions are done, different manufacturers approach the brakes differently with some keeping the linked brakes and others de-linking and using the front brake lever for just the front brakes and pedal for the rear. The reason they do it different is the thinking that the rear master cylinder would not be all that effective on two large auto-type calipers. The wing original had a two-pot caliper the master cylinder was sized to work so you can't expect top-notch braking with a small, motorcycle master cylinder. Just not enough hydraulic leverage.

Food for thought:

70/30 front/back when the front brake lever is actuated.

When you say this are you talking motorcycle? I think that 30 number would change a bit for those two wide trike tires.

The reason they do it different is the thinking that the rear master cylinder would not be all that effective on two large auto-type calipers.

Those two calipers are no longer trying to stop a 3500 pound vehicle.

The wing original had a two-pot caliper the master cylinder was sized to work so you can't expect top-notch braking with a small, motorcycle master cylinder. Just not enough hydraulic leverage.

Isn't that kind of like saying all wing trikes are unsafe?
 
Our Champion has separate brakes - foot rear, hand front. That is the reason we didn't have to worry about the brake recall Honda had earlier this year. Don't know about the rear master cylinder being too small, I have locked up those large rear tires on occasion.
I ride a 2 wheeler as much as the trike, so I keep the front and rear braking technique.
 
Champion de-links the system also and if you have ABS on your 2 wheeler as I did, you will no longer when you convert. Not linking the brake system doesn't bother me, but what does is my rear brakes are barely adaquate. If I stand on the rear brake pedal I doubt I could skid the tires. From what I've heard, the reason for this is because they use the original slave cylinder for the rear brakes which are designed for a single wheel or caliper. They say that the slave cylinder doesn't have the capacity to supply enough volumn for 2 calipers and this makes sense to me.
Are your brakes drum or disc? If drum, you might also make sure that your brake are properly adjusted using a spoon type tool to adjust a star shaped adjust pawl inside the brake drum.
 
I also added a pedal extension to give not only a larger foot area to find the brake, but it also raised the pedal a bit to allow for more downward force. My Roadsmith has disk brakes on the rear wheels. When applying my back brakes, I press on the brake pedal once to set the calipers (brake pads tight to the disk) and then press again which now gives me more stopping power.
 
I also added a pedal extension to give not only a larger foot area to find the brake, but it also raised the pedal a bit to allow for more downward force. My Roadsmith has disk brakes on the rear wheels. When applying my back brakes, I press on the brake pedal once to set the calipers (brake pads tight to the disk) and then press again which now gives me more stopping power.

I use to have to do this on my 2006 GL Hannigan; once I shimmed the brake pads I eliminated the problem of pumping twice. Now they lock up on first downward force. Learn that from another member on here.
 
I use to have to do this on my 2006 GL Hannigan; once I shimmed the brake pads I eliminated the problem of pumping twice. Now they lock up on first downward force. Learn that from another member on here.

That's a great idea! I'll have to look to see how much of a gap there is between the brake pad and rotor when piston in the caliper is recessed in it's normal position. What did you use for shims?
 
On the DFT it has the original 2 wheel brake system. If you had ABS you still will. If you had linked still do,. The whole rear of the 2 wheeler is used. Honda never linked the front lever to the rear. The front left disk is operated by your foot brake. Since I only have one rear disk I can not lock rear wheels as the front does most of the work,. I use the front for panic stops,and under 15 MPH.
 
That's a great idea! I'll have to look to see how much of a gap there is between the brake pad and rotor when piston in the caliper is recessed in it's normal position. What did you use for shims?

Whatever type caliber you are using, they have brake pad shims for your type of brake pad.

For my Hannigan Kit the rotors and calipers are parts from a Honda Civic CRX from 1984 through and including 1987. Just bought new brake pads and the shims that go with them.
 
Does any one know what the manufacturer of Motor Trike pads would be. I posted here in the past about having to "double pump" the rear brakes and did not get a response. This makes sense to me now. Seems like shims are the way to go. Would be nice if the sponsors of this site could jump in on these matters. Braking is important stuff.;)
 
I have never heard of a Honda having its rear brake operate with the right front brake lever. The rear brake pedal does operate the rear brakes and the left front brake caliper only.
 
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Thats the factory standard set-up for brakes. I dont have a pic of the ABS system. But except for the ABS modulator and pick-ups on the wheels I cant imagine the brakes being setup any different..
 
This should be the standard setup with linked brakes for an 1800. I know my Lehman Monarch II is set up like this.
 
most trikes have a residual valve installed to keep some pressure on the brake cycl,, 5lb i think for champion.
if you cant lock the rear wheels you have air most likely,,, need a pressure bleeder that pushes a large volume of fluid.
 

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