Anyone move the top box back on a new Roadsmith Goldwing Trike?

Jul 23, 2013
8
2
Hilliard, OH, USA
Anyone move the top box back on a new Roadsmith Goldwing Trike?

I was wondering if this was possible and how much effort it takes to do so. I had a Goldwing back in 2005 and my wife found the passenger seat area was a bit tight. Fast forward to today and we have both enlarged just a bit, so I'm asking this to see if the conventional trike route is how I want to go. I chose Roadsmith because of the chance to add the more forward, lower controls for me to be able to stretch out a bit more. I'm riding a Can Am Spyder RT now and am finding that we are both just a bit cramped up on available space. Thanks!
 
Top box move

Ed

Do a search here. I remember seeing a post on this adjustment awhile back
Didn't sound too difficult, guess cause I have experience un bolting the top box mounting brackets for other reasons

Roadsmith would be an excellent choice of trikes
I am a little biased though
 
I was wondering if this was possible and how much effort it takes to do so. I had a Goldwing back in 2005 and my wife found the passenger seat area was a bit tight. Fast forward to today and we have both enlarged just a bit, so I'm asking this to see if the conventional trike route is how I want to go. I chose Roadsmith because of the chance to add the more forward, lower controls for me to be able to stretch out a bit more. I'm riding a Can Am Spyder RT now and am finding that we are both just a bit cramped up on available space. Thanks!
I have been thinking about moving mine back as well.I had the trunk off when I put the trike kit on. I have a few pics to look at,but my memory is not exactly clear on what it will take. I think all that will be needed is a flat bar about 1/4" thick and long enough to drill and counter sink for current bolt holes ,then move back the trunk a 1"" or 2" drill and tap new holes. I do Romberg that the front bolts are narrower than the rear bolts.They are not in a straight line.what I can't remember is how much room is under the Tupperware for the flat bar,and how long the wires are in the wiring harness.

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This is a pic of the trunk bracket laying on the floor.the angle of the pic is not good for this topic


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In this pic if you look close you can see a lip on the body around where the trunk mounts.I am not sure if it will have to be trimmed off to have clearance to move the trunk back.

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In this pic you can see the trunk mounting bracket in place on the bike with no hard ware around it.
 
The helmet locks would have to be removed or the slotted hole in the Tupperware would have to be modified.
Another option would be to lengthen the mounting tubing where it bolts to the bike frame. I am looking for a bolt on option.
 
After looking at the pics and thinking about this a little while I possibly see another way if there is not enough room under the Tupperware to simply add a flat bar or flat plate.
I think maybe a flat plate or flat bar a couple of inches wide can be made to bolt to the bike frame where the frame for the trunk mounts. Then new holes could be relocated in the plate for the trunk sub to bolt to.This would move every thing back the same distance of where the new holes were relocated.
 
I was wondering if this was possible and how much effort it takes to do so. I had a Goldwing back in 2005 and my wife found the passenger seat area was a bit tight. Fast forward to today and we have both enlarged just a bit, so I'm asking this to see if the conventional trike route is how I want to go. I chose Roadsmith because of the chance to add the more forward, lower controls for me to be able to stretch out a bit more. I'm riding a Can Am Spyder RT now and am finding that we are both just a bit cramped up on available space. Thanks!

Right after I purchased my '13 Hannigan I was looking into having my seat redone and in the process I talked with Tom Simmons of www.tscustomseats.com in Fayetteville, AR Phone: 479-521-7339 and he says he can move the trunk back on a trike. I'm working from almost two year old memory here so you will need to verify what I am saying. The price was around $350 to move it and if I remember correctly he could move it 3 inches. I didn't go that route but since I'm short and only have a 27" inseam he moved me forward a bit and the wife back a bit which gave her around 2 inches extra and that was for only the cost of the seat. Around $1200 for the seat to be redon e.

It is my second seat from him and I would buy the third if I ever need it. I got lucky and found these pics this seat has been moved back and I'm pretty sure it's a roadsmith.

IMG_0195.JPG

IMG_0196.JPG

IMG_0197.JPG

IMG_0198.JPG
 
I chose Roadsmith because of the chance to add the more forward, lower controls for me to be able to stretch out a bit more.

Suggest weight bearing foot fairings and remove your pegs. Rest your feet on the foot fairings.

Also, add a Kury heel rest to the brake side.

Much more comfortable!
 

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