2016 HD Tri Glide Forks LOCKED and would not UNLOCK!!!

Oct 11, 2017
258
169
Somewhere,Texas USA
Several days ago I went to my local HD dealer to pick up some merchandise I ordered..... I got ready to leave and tried to unlock my trikes ignition fork lock AND IT WOULD NOT UNLOCK the fork!!! After I frantically twisted the ignition knob for a while (while trying NOT to look like I was in a state of panic) I was forced to go inside and get a mechanic.

...........Mechanic came to the trike with his ignition tool and said it shouldnt be a problem to fix.

......20 mins. later 3 mechanics were on it and said the inside latch at the fork plate below will not release for some unknown reason!

.....they ended up pulling the entire ignition/lock cylinder mechanism which left me looking though a hole below my dash and observing the plate that turns with the steering column which would normally line up with the ignition spring mechanism to lock the fork.............Then they reflashed the trike to bypass the ignition switch and would start from the "ON" switch on the handle bars............They sent me on my way and warranty ordered an entire ignition/lock switch cylinder.

....9 days later, the keyed part came in from Harley....I took the trike back to the dealer, they installed the new part and all is well.

.....But what if that would have happened ANYWHERE ELSE???? I would have been absolutely "skee-rood!" ...could'nt have unlocked trike to even roll it away!

...............Mechanic says this happens all the time but rarely does it disable the fork lock........but it did this time with me.

..........What he told me was under the on-off-acc label plate tag on the front top of the chrome ignition switch sits a small countersunk phillips screw which gets loose over time as the switch knob is used.........the driver will not notice the loose screw because the labeled plate tag hides it.....then one day you turn the chrome switch as always and "OOPS, trouble!"

.........to avoid this misadventure, you peel back the on-off- label plate tag which is only held down only with harley sticky tape stuff.........use your fingernail or carefully ease the tag up without bending out of shape...........use a slot screwdriver or whatever to delicately ease it off...............remove the phillips screw and use loctite (blue I suppose) and re-secure the screw.....reset the label plate back on the chrome knob..............and this bummer adventure won't happen.

This is what he told me, so I thought I'd pass it along.....:xzqxz:
 
Thanks

Wow, that is very good info. I have heard of people having the fork lock and ignition problem. However, that is the first I have heard about the little screw under the label. It will be interesting to see if others have been told the same thing by other dealers. Thanks for posting this. I hope the label can be taken off without bending it. You are right though.... that could really mess you up if you were not near home or a dealer when it happens. I never use the fork lock unless I am leaving it out at night somewhere, but I probably should use it more. Anyway, glad they got you fixed up.
 
reply to Mike

Hey Mike!

.........Yeah, it "FREAKED" me out too! .........I was totally "HELPLESS!!!!!" ..........I went from swaggerly walking to the bike thinking "Yeah, I'm cool", to "OH, SH_T...HELP!" in moments.

.......I actually watched him get that ignition tag off delicately with a small slot screwdriver....first he tried his fingernail, then went to the screwdriver and slowly peeled it up without damaging it.......then he set it upside down on the seat (it still is plenty sticky and can just be returned to the ignition top and pressed down when ready)..it did not curl or bend.

....Harley did not appear to have any Loctite on that screw..............Seems that Harley thinks that screw will be held in place by the sticky plate label..........IT WAS NOT! The mechanic backed the screw out with his fingers as it was loose and already partially backed out (only a little loose, but thats all it took)..........and the metal sticky tag on top had no bulge and still appeared perfectly flat to look at it.

...........I dont know, maybe this wont happen to anyone else and mine was just a fluke? ..........But I wont use my lock now unless absolutely have too! (and I told them to leave the ignition remapped through the handle bar on switch and bypass the chrome ignition switch)........The chrome combo switch/acc/lock knob is only used to lock forks when needed for me now.

Ride Safe!
 
That is scary - as are 000s of other scenarios of being stranded away from home.

As far as the ignition switch knob goes I guess the tech was able to push the release button on the bottom left side and with then turn the key to the left past the lock position and lift the knob and stem out. You could in an emergency use a screwdriver to turn the switch mechinism and get you going.

There are You Tube videos about this. Here is one from Law Abiding Biker:

 
Several days ago I went to my local HD dealer to pick up some merchandise I ordered..... I got ready to leave and tried to unlock my trikes ignition fork lock AND IT WOULD NOT UNLOCK the fork!!! After I frantically twisted the ignition knob for a while (while trying NOT to look like I was in a state of panic) I was forced to go inside and get a mechanic.

Good to know Randy. I copied the fix to my computer & will be checking that when it is warmer in the garage.(30* here today) Glad ya like the discs. Not sure about that other stuff in the tires. I always use Dyna Beads for a continuous balance.
 
How I removed the chrome ignition ACC/IGNITION/LOCK cover plate easily!

Hey Dudes!

.....seems as though this is post is getting some attention (AND IT SHOULD!) .....So I went to my garage and got my trikes' new chrome ignition switch and tried to remove the sticky cover plate to expose the hidden screw........ I thought it was so important to show the hidden screw that I would remove the sticky cover plate on this new chrome ignition knob the way I watched the HD mechanic do it.

...........so, I tried using "My Fingernail" = no way, just couldn't get it to budge..

............Then, I tried a couple of different slot screwdrivers = no luck (was too afraid of scratching the chrome or marring the plate sticker to use much force)

...............then I got a feeler gauge from toolbox and used a thin blade = slid it gently under the plate sticker easily and it popped right off without a scratch!

........now the hidden screw was exposed. Later I just pushed the sticky cover plate back in position and all was well.

I am going to try to put a couple of pictures below to show the screw and cover plate.... I hope it works! (haven't done pics before on this site)

Feeler smaller IMG_0981.jpg .....I just used the feeler gauge thin blade!

......Below is the hidden screw on my chrome ignition cover on 2016 Tri Glide:

Cropped FULL IMG_0977.jpg

........Now who the hell looks for a screw to be tightened here? ...sure wasn't me until now!

...............Hope this is usefull to others!
 

Attachments

  • small IMG_0977.jpg
    small IMG_0977.jpg
    627.7 KB · Views: 280
  • 3608 IMG_0977.jpg
    3608 IMG_0977.jpg
    484.2 KB · Views: 296
Nice pix n post, now the question, was the screw loose again ? Looks like a star screw thingie, special tool # 1234 needed.
 
No it wasnt loose again as this time it was put in with Loctite by the mechanic.......and yes its actually a star screw..though the mechanic originally brought out a phillips...........it didnt matter on mine at that time because it was loose enough that he backed it out with his fingers!

.........oh well, if you decide to go for this screw tightening....you'll see what to use I'm sure!

Ride Safe!
 
No it wasnt loose again as this time it was put in with Loctite by the mechanic.......and yes its actually a star screw..though the mechanic originally brought out a phillips...........it didnt matter on mine at that time because it was loose enough that he backed it out with his fingers!

.........oh well, if you decide to go for this screw tightening....you'll see what to use I'm sure!

Ride Safe!

What number torx is it ?
 
After watching a video of how easy it is to snap the locking tabs on the ignition with a vise grip; I never use ignition lock. I figure the security fob will be my first line of protection and if in a motel lot I use a disk lock also. I figure I have enough insurance to cover me if the worst happens
 
After watching a video of how easy it is to snap the locking tabs on the ignition with a vise grip; I never use ignition lock. I figure the security fob will be my first line of protection and if in a motel lot I use a disk lock also. I figure I have enough insurance to cover me if the worst happens

Exactly my thought track. With a number of trips to the Pacific NW, CA, Sturgis, etc. Never had an issue.
 
Thanks so much for the info. I am going to replace my handle bars shortly, now I know how to remove the switch.

Good info, keep it coming.
 
Good info and thanks for posting the photos. Question about the initial failure: what exactly happens when the screw backs out? Does something break thus preventing the screw from being tightened and the problem solved? Thanks.
 
Hey Dudes!

.............Listen, after all this interest, I just went back and removed the metal tag on top of the chrome knob again (with a thin feeler gauge blade)....this time I checked to see exactly what will fit THIS screw head....It's a T-20 H Torx bit tip......the T20 Torx bit that has the hollow center! (i cant imagine what the mechanics phillips screwdriver was for when he originally came to the bike unless he just happened to have it in his hand at the time I hollard at him to help!).............in any case, my original malfunctioning screw was finger loose at the time of the dasterdly event and he continued to back it out and lay it on the seat!

............I just tried to back the new screw out, but my mechanic has it now on so tight that it doesn't want to budge loose. (He told me he tightened it extra tight and with loctite = yep, that he did)

...Now I ASSUME that if screw was backed out and removed for loctite and replaced without moving anything around on the knob that it would be ok.......But as my screw is now too tight to safely remove (for me anyway) = it is only an assumption on my part at this time...............But I do know it has to be tight and not loose!

......unfortunately, I do not personally know exactly what that screw holds inside that chrome knob....I have a service manual and can't even find it listed as it mentions nothing about this metal tag being removed at all.........it just shows how to remove the entire chrome knob..........

.........I will try to post another pic but I doubt if its any better than the ones already done:

IMG with arrows_0990.jpg
 
Looks like a tamper proof torx, has the little pin in the middle. Will need the torx bit with the hole in the center.
 
Reply to ultrfxr

Hey Jerry!

I don't know exactly what failed inside the chrome ignition/lock...........I went to unlock bike....turned key as always.......turned chrome knob towards center as always.....but this time there was some spunginess and some restriction (for lack of a better description) to the mechanism, though it still turned it did not go to center and the lock did not disengage.....I kept foolin' with it and it returned to the center (still lock on forks would not disengage).....then, the knob turned loosly to all positions...

.......I then fetched the mechanic.....he came and removed the metal tag and backed out that screw by hand....then he fiddled with it some more and removed the entire chrome knob with the lock tree stalk attached (as is normal for knob removal).

.....then he turned the exposed collar nut to different positions which turned on the ignition/Acc. "sometimes"..sometimes it did not.....Never would the lock disengage.

......so he and 2 other mechanics came - all assessed the situation and could not get the lock to release.........All agreed its totally f_ck'ed up and something inside mechanism has failed.

.........The mechanics quickly removed the entire device from the trike and rolled their computer outside to the trikes location.....Then, they reflashed it to bypass normal start ignition and to start from the "ON - start" switches on the handlebars........They told me bunches of guys are doing this standard switch bypass these days and avoiding using the normal chrome dome switch for anything but locking the forks.............They told me some 2018 models dont use the chrome knobs at all anymore (thats what I understood them to say).

.............when the new part came in and I went to pick up trike after it was installed = thats when the mechanic told me about the screw usually causing the malfunction, though I was the first he had seen that had the lock actually fail too..........said they fix this constantly with customers!

....Thats all I know.............I left out all the cuss words I used during this terrible ordeal!!!!....I was PISSSSSSSSSSSED at Harley! Oh Yes!
 

Welcome to the Trike Talk Community

Join our vibrant online community dedicated to all things Trikes! Whether you're a seasoned rider or just starting out, this is the place to share experiences, tips, and stories about your three-wheeled adventures. Explore modifications, maintenance advice, and rides, all while connecting with fellow trike enthusiasts from around the globe

Forum statistics

Threads
55,369
Messages
804,474
Members
23,940
Latest member
jhlesher
Back
Top Bottom