2010 triglide brake switch replacement

[pcmikey]

I bought a new rear brake switch for my 2010 triglide. I thought I could ignore the recall because I had installed fuelmoto stainless headers. WRONG! the rear brakes failed as I was headed home. Fortunately I was close. I elected to replace it myself, instead of paying $300 to have a flatbed haul it From Panama City FL to Dothan AL. I have the correct switch---sharp edges rather than rounded. I picked it up in Dothan while attending my grandson's band competition (Bay High $Million Dollar Band---only high school band in the country to play at the 2013 Orange Bowl---bought 6 tickets as soon as it was announced).

I am getting to a point here. I am asking for guidance on the simplest way to exchange the switches. I know I'll have to bleed the rear brakes---the reservoir is empty---like my head. Any comments/suggestions/warnings?---I have a shop manual but it is not very helpful on this subject.

pcmikey

 

[msocko3]

I bought a new rear brake switch for my 2010 triglide. I thought I could ignore the recall because I had installed fuelmoto stainless headers. WRONG! the rear brakes failed as I was headed home. Fortunately I was close. I elected to replace it myself, instead of paying $300 to have a flatbed haul it From Panama City FL to Dothan AL. I have the correct switch---sharp edges rather than rounded. I picked it up in Dothan while attending my grandson's band competition (Bay High $Million Dollar Band---only high school band in the country to play at the 2013 Orange Bowl---bought 6 tickets as soon as it was announced).

I am getting to a point here. I am asking for guidance on the simplest way to exchange the switches. I know I'll have to bleed the rear brakes---the reservoir is empty---like my head. Any comments/suggestions/warnings?---I have a shop manual but it is not very helpful on this subject.

pcmikey

The switch install is pretty straight forward, I put a little Teflon paste on the threads if it doesn't already have some as it comes from the MoCo. Bleeding the brakes is a pretty straight forward operation also. I've always used a Mity Vac but you can do it the pump the peddle and open the bleeder method with no problems.

 

[pcmikey]

Thanks msocko3. I'll let you know how it goes.

PS I plan to use the Wiz's guide to replace the cams in my 2010 tri glide ultra 103. I installed fuelmoto headers, PCV and Autotune, and a map from fuelmoto. I have 4" Rush slipons with 2.25" baffles(i'm considering going to 1.75" baffles to get a little more back pressure). I have plenty of low-end torque. My problem is that when I am on the freeway going 70, and I want to pass somebody, there's not much there. Can you recommend a cam that will help this?

Mike Wynn AKA pcmikey

 

[Sloufoot]

Thanks msocko3. I'll let you know how it goes.

PS I plan to use the Wiz's guide to replace the cams in my 2010 tri glide ultra 103. I installed fuelmoto headers, PCV and Autotune, and a map from fuelmoto. I have 4" Rush slipons with 2.25" baffles(i'm considering going to 1.75" baffles to get a little more back pressure). I have plenty of low-end torque. My problem is that when I am on the freeway going 70, and I want to pass somebody, there's not much there. Can you recommend a cam that will help this?

Mike Wynn AKA pcmikey

You might want to talk to Fuelmoto about that map. I am running a PCV without the autotune. A map I had in was a little lean above 3200rpm, & didn't have enough advance. I changed maps, & had a whole different animal ! It also had the same problem.
Do you have a bigger air filter than stock ? Although the smaller baffle might have a positive effect on that symptom, you might do the same by just adjusting the map. Jamie at FM can work with that map and I'll bet a big difference. :Trike1:

 

[eagle1]

get some spegetti tubeing from the hardware store ,long enough to reach from the mastercylinder to the rear tire. then get another piece of tubeing to reach from one side of the trike to the other. & a automotive vacuum "T". that way you can hook up both rear bleeders to a T line & bleed both at once. also you can go to speedbleeders.com & buy bleed valves with a check valve in them that prevents air from getting into the brakes after you release the brake handle as you bleed them.
i use ATE super blue raceing (SYN) brake fluid in comes in blue & amber color.
on another subject i highly recommend you change to a gear lube like red line shockproof, or the spectro which you can find at a local bike shop. because the noise will be reduced and syn 3 is waaaay too thin for ue in the tranny. also these are better oils than syn 3., also put some 10" yippes BAGGER BARS not APES on your trike. stock wireing is ok
but you need a 4" over clutch cable. if you plan on doing some 4-600 mile trips or longer you'll be grateful. too.later if you go on trips fully loaded check out a cam up grade. like S&S

 

[msocko3]

Thanks msocko3. I'll let you know how it goes.

PS I plan to use the Wiz's guide to replace the cams in my 2010 tri glide ultra 103. I installed fuelmoto headers, PCV and Autotune, and a map from fuelmoto. I have 4" Rush slipons with 2.25" baffles(i'm considering going to 1.75" baffles to get a little more back pressure). I have plenty of low-end torque. My problem is that when I am on the freeway going 70, and I want to pass somebody, there's not much there. Can you recommend a cam that will help this?

Mike Wynn AKA pcmikey

I'm assuming you transmission sprocket is still the stock one which is a 32 tooth. With that in mind I would look at Woods TW222, T-man 555 torqster, Head Quarters HQ500. I'll bet fuelmoto might have a map to get you going with the TW222.

 

[pcmikey]

Thank you all for your sage advice. I love this forum.

Mike

 

[viper]

Pcmlkey, the switch is a recall item which I had changed at the Harley dealers last week. At no charge! I wasn't having any problem with my 2010 but found the recall and took it in. Had to wait for it to cool down there but only took them ten minutes to do the job! Took longer to cool then the free job it self!