1F2R steering wheel to bike forks

Uhhh wow and interesting.*
I don't see any reason that the concept would not work.
Lots of details to work out.
Shafts, supports, bearings, angle of u joint and velocity change, the coupling of drive components, sizing and sourcing the gear box, then possibly the most difficult. ..coupling the gearbox to the motorcycle neck.

All of which is doable.*

Look into the parallel link set up the big v8 trikes use.
Also look into marine rack and pinion cable steering.*

Things to research.*
 
. . . Look into the parallel link set up the big v8 trikes use.
Also look into marine rack and pinion cable steering. . . .

I was unaware of the marine rig (thanks), but it'd mean BUYING stuff - that's against my religion. I already have the middle drive, suitable shafts and u-joints, etc., so all the parts in my system are "free" to me. I agree when I try to transfer the idea to the machine I may discover "challenges" but that's to be expected and, frankly, a large part of the fun of a build.

All the parallel link big trike steering systems I've seen use remote handlebars that swing in a plane parallel to the top of the triple tree. If you've seen a good pic of a steering wheel (rotating in a separate plane, not perpendicular to the stem), I'd very much appreciate seeing it.

I'd always associated velocity of u-joint problems with driveshafts (e.g., high speed vibration).

How would it manifest itself in a steering linkage?

Again, thanks for the useful input.
 
Nothing wrong with doing it your way.
Having a lot of the pieces already is a big plus.

On the v8 trike rig. Wheel on the stem just like the remote handle bars. Different length levers to get some ratio to it. Could be a a small angle difference but not a lot.
The marine stuff would take a lot of work also but would get you part way there without eating up so much space.
The u joint velocity change would not be in vibration but in an uneven lumpy feel. Put the swivel u joint on your ratchet and stick it on a bolt and lean it too far and rotate. You will feel the velocity change, lump lump lump.

Here is another. ..
How about a normal automotive steering box. Oriented with the pitman arm pointed the right way with a tie rod to a lever on the motorcycle fork stem.

You have the vw box?
 
Well first of all Carcentric, welcome to TrikeTalk man!

Sounds like a very interesting concept as Deathbysnusnu stated.

You will probably have to build, buy, mod some kind of steering dampener due to several moving parts but I don't see why it wouldn't work. ;)
 
. . . The u joint velocity change would not be in vibration but in an uneven lumpy feel. Put the swivel u joint on your ratchet and stick it on a bolt and lean it too far. You will feel the velocity change, lump lump lump.

Here is another. ..
How about a normal automotive steering box. Oriented with the pitman arm pointed the right way with a tie rod to a lever on the motorcycle fork stem.

You have the vw box?

Yes, from a previously parted out Super Beetle. That was a BEAR to get out, not having done one before. And the idler arm .

.

. .

I've watched this demo several times to refresh my understanding of u-joint velocity:


It looks to me like the 'speed up' happens twice each revolution, 180 degrees apart. If that's true, I'll try to get those events to occur at full lock left and full lock right so they won't be as noticeable. Or I could add a second u-joint and pay close attention to phasing as they do in the video.

Either way, I'll only be using less than half of a steering wheel revolution from lock to lock with a 1:1 right angle drive. As to a "normal automotive steering box" my initial reaction is "big, heavy, and don't have one."
 
See if there is somebody in your area with a Stallion. They have theirs setup much like that.
 
You have the Vw box?
It is as light as a 1 to 1 angle box.
But just tossing ideas. You're the one to have to design and make it work. Like you said, that is part of the fun.
Good vid.
Some angle on a single joint. But if you need more angle use two in phase.
 
Yeah I am just guessing. I have never even held the mid drive in my hand so I don't know first hand.*
I would think the mid drive box would be heavier. It is intended to carry more power through it.

Anyway still a viable theory for the design.*
Coming up with a design is part of the fun. I am tossing out ideas.... Well because I am having fun too.
How about not using the motorcycle forks?
Build a hossack front end.
 

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