Question About SUPERTRAPP Exhaust - Soliciting Opinions

Hey Boom,
Yea, my stockers dragged in and out of the trailer, and I am glad I have the lift kit sitting on my bench ready to install. I think I will need it. Especially since, wait for it, "YES FOLKS I JUMPED OFF THE FENCE" and ordered the Supertrapp Kerker Mufflers and Yaffe Claw End Caps yesterday. :D

That's right, I did it. I couldn't resist. $480.85 total to my door for everything. I should have everything installed on the 29th, unless they are calling for rain on the 30th.

I will be sure to post pics, and a video, before, during and afters, the whole shootin' match.

I have to ask you though, what do you mean when you say:

Also, be advised they didn't come with mounting threaded holes. Had to provide my own mounting nuts that were a tight fit.

Do the stock mufflers have the nuts welded into the brackets attached to the top of the mufflers? Real curious about this.

Thanks,
Rob
 
Hey Boom,
Yea, my stockers dragged in and out of the trailer, and I am glad I have the lift kit sitting on my bench ready to install. I think I will need it. Especially since, wait for it, "YES FOLKS I JUMPED OFF THE FENCE" and ordered the Supertrapp Kerker Mufflers and Yaffe Claw End Caps yesterday. :D

That's right, I did it. I couldn't resist. $480.85 total to my door for everything. I should have everything installed on the 29th, unless they are calling for rain on the 30th.

I will be sure to post pics, and a video, before, during and afters, the whole shootin' match.

I have to ask you though, what do you mean when you say:



Do the stock mufflers have the nuts welded into the brackets attached to the top of the mufflers? Real curious about this.

Thanks,
Rob

Yes, they do. The Supertrapp SEs did not.
 
Boom,
Oh! Interesting. Are the stock bolts a weird size? Can't I just get all new hardware from Lowes or Home Depot? I believe they sell stainless steel hardware. I think they even sell S.S. nylon locking nuts, even though I plan on using lock tite too. If not we a have a pretty great old fashioned hardware store up near me, and I know they have a lot of specialty fastener hardware.

Just odd. But thanks for the heads up. Do you (or anyone else) know what size this hardware is so I can buy it in advance?
Thanks a lot,
Rob
 
Rob,

Don't use stainless-steel hardware. Although it's heavier and looks nicer, it's typically a lot weaker than even grade 5 zinc-plated hardware. Just stick to the grade 8 stuff and you'll be ok.

Also, don't use nylock nuts. The heat from the mufflers will melt the nylon. Use good old-fashioned lock washers.
 
JohnC,
I'm a DOH! kinda guy sometimes. Makes sense not using the nylon nuts, now. And yea, thanks for the tip on the SS vs Zinc hardware. And no lock tite either?

Hmmm, just went to the Supertrapp site and downloaded the instructions, got this from there:

SUPERTRAPP INSTALLATION:
1. Slide new T-bolt clamps (supplied) over the inlet of each
muffler.
2. Install right side muffler (part #027-7821) on the right side
head pipe. Align the muffler mounting brackets with the
stock mount. Install the 5/16” bolts and lock washers
(supplied)
and tighten to 19 ft-lbs (26 Nm).
3. Repeat step 2 for the left side muffler (Part# 027-7820).

Nothing about nuts??????? Maybe they are welded on now like the stock mufflers.

Anybody?
Thanks,
Rob
 
Trikermutha,
No, I was thinking about buying a set of those open or closed end ratcheting wrenches from Sears. I already have a set of regulars O/C end wrenches, and regular set of ratchets.

I tried to feel up in there with my fingers just to see what it would be like and I know it's tight. I hope having the wheels off will help.

Any other suggestions will be greatly appreciated!!!
Thanks,
Rob
 
you will need a 1/2 rachet wrench. I found that was the best way to get them bolts out and in. You really dont need to take the wheels off buts that up to you. Once you get the rear bolts off then loosen the muffler clamp and wiggle the muffler side to side and maybe up and down they will come out. A little lube helps also.

good Luck..
 
Well, I will be putting the lift kit on at the same time so I figured since I only have a bike jack and jack stands to work with and not a lift, removing the wheels would make things easier for me since I will be on the garage floor.

1/2" huh, that's an easy one to remember. Thank you so much!!
Rob
 
yea I did it on the floor also. just make sure the rachet wrench has a slight offset aon not straight.

as for the lift brackets I recommend not putting the jack stands under the axle. Yoy will see why once you take the shock bolts off.You need a good allen wrench for that shock bolt.

Anyway once you are done you will like the changes.

Later
 
Hey Trikermutha,
I really don't want to spend $100 bucks on a complete set so I plan on buying just the wrenches I need instead, at Sears.

Sears: Online department store featuring appliances, tools, fitness equipment and more

or

Sears: Online department store featuring appliances, tools, fitness equipment and more

My only question is, do I just buy one or the set?

I have another question. Does anyone know if a bike jack (the kind that you put under the frame to lift the entire bike) will work on a Tri-Glide to lift the entire thing off the ground? Or is this a stupid thing to do?

Rob
 
I have another question. Does anyone know if a bike jack (the kind that you put under the frame to lift the entire bike) will work on a Tri-Glide to lift the entire thing off the ground? Or is this a stupid thing to do?


A bike jack won't lift the entire Trike off the ground, at least my Pitbull lift wouldn't do it without bending the arms due to the uneven weight distribution. Until my dad bought the table lift I was working on the trikes like this.

tg4h.jpg


There is anchors in the concrete floor with eye bolts, the strap is to hold the front end down while using the jack you see in the back to lift the back up. The jack is the type you would use on a table lift.
 
Yea, that looks like a great idea. We used to raise the two wheelers up on a table lift, then attach straps from the ceiling and lower the table. Your idea looks like the same thing in reverse.

I was thinking of using some 2 by's to create a platform at strategic frame locations and see if I could get the bike jack in far enough to be able to lift it without it being unstable.

Maybe two jacks would work? The bike jack and regular car jack. I will have to play around with it I guess.

How far do you have to jack it up to get the wheels off the ground far enough to be able to remove the rear shocks? Maybe I'm over thinking it. Her is the type of bike jack I am talking about using:

Black Widow Motorcycle Jack / Lift

Not the exact same kind but you get the idea. Mine is actually red, and a little nicer. I think it should fit between the rear under the axle nicely. I was hoping to push it in far enough and then put a 2x4 on the lift pads under the trunk frame and another under the trike frame, so it would then be straddling the axle and still be able to lift the trike.

Rob
 
Not the exact same kind but you get the idea. Mine is actually red, and a little nicer. I think it should fit between the rear under the axle nicely. I was hoping to push it in far enough and then put a 2x4 on the lift pads under the trunk frame and another under the trike frame, so it would then be straddling the axle and still be able to lift the trike.

Rob

You don't have to lift it much to take the shocks off. You might want to read the owners manual and see what HD says about lifting the Triglide, the frame work under the trunk isn't a lifting point.
 
After reading your Post here Pal, I'm a little worried about you doing this. Don't hurt yourself. I was hoping we could meet up somewhere in the future and ride together. :D

I like Pettifogger's idea with the ramps. Wally world has them pretty cheap!
Take care!!!
 
Wow! That's a great looking approach to getting under the back end for sure! Thanks!

I wonder if you guys could tell me if a Flex Head Ratchet would work to get those rear 1/2" muffler bolts out? Is there enough room for something like this:

Sears: Online department store featuring appliances, tools, fitness equipment and more

Or even this one:

Sears: Online department store featuring appliances, tools, fitness equipment and more

I have a crap load of sockets and if I can make either of these work for this task I think it would be a nice addition to my tool set. Or is there just too little room to get a ratchet and socket onto those bolts?

Let me know please, they are calling for rain this Saturday and if so, I am doing the install then, so we can try out the lift kit and mufflers on a ride up to Gettysburg on Sunday.

Thanks guys for the help.
Rob
 
I used a little 1/4 inch ratchet and socket. That rear bolt is just a pain to get to. One side I had to loosen front bolt and muffler clamp so I could drive muffler back gently just so I could get to rear muffler bolt.
They must mount those before they put the body on.
Worth the trouble though!
Dennis
 
After reading your Post here Pal, I'm a little worried about you doing this. Don't hurt yourself. I was hoping we could meet up somewhere in the future and ride together. :D

I like Pettifogger's idea with the ramps. Wally world has them pretty cheap!
Take care!!!

LMAO!!!!! I appreciate your concern for my safety. My stupid days are way behind me. It may have sounded wacked out but I was just talking...... Although I was wondering if it would possible to build something to suspend the entire trike from, and low and behold, they sell something like that online. Believe me, I will not jeopardize me or this machine. I will be fine. And yea, I will have both eyes, and all my fingers and toes when we do meet up!!! HAHAHAHAHAHA Oh by the way, I see you have the old two wheeler back, no?

Like, you, msocko3 and the lift kit creator has said, I don't have to lift it up that much, just a couple inches. It's just that a skinnier person would be able to see under it clearly with just a little lift but my big fat a$$ will have a harder time the lower it is. Add in the fact that I am blind as a bat and need glasses to see and you might as well triple the time it takes to do this job.

But I am ok with that. I will still step back and look at it like a major accomplishment. Even though everyone will be rolling their eyes at my saying "whatever" LOL!!

I just refuse not to do this (and all the rest of the) work myself, this time. The accountant/warden locked me down this time and I'm already breaking parole. hehehehehehe

You know I've always appreciated all the help past, but I do even more now. Honestly, it's easier to swallow the truth from someone that cares before a major mistake is made than to hear "I was gonna say something but was afraid you would take it the wrong way".

Thank you all,
Rob
 
I used a little 1/4 inch ratchet and socket. That rear bolt is just a pain to get to. One side I had to loosen front bolt and muffler clamp so I could drive muffler back gently just so I could get to rear muffler bolt.
They must mount those before they put the body on.
Worth the trouble though!
Dennis

Dennis,
I figured a 3/8" ratchet at 30 bucks would see more service than a single 1/2" flex head box end ratcheting wrench would for the same price. A set of those buggers will run me 90 - 120 bucks and I'm not sure I will use them a lot........

I agree, I think they put them (the mufflers) on before the box.

Hey Bro, I am so excited about putting that lift kit on! This Saturday is the big day, as long as I get the end caps for the mufflers by then.

Thanks,
Rob
 
Matt, All I ever used was 1/2" open & box end wrench. Take a little while I have changed mine 3 times never even tried 1/4" ratchet. Maybe next time.
 
OK, so I got word that my end caps for the mufflers will be at my house today, and they are calling for rain this Saturday so the install is scheduled for then.

I plan on stopping at Sears to pick up a flex head 1/2" ratcheting wrench and a 3/8" drive flex head ratchet. Whichever one works I will keep. They both cost the same. The local store doesn't have a 1/4" drive in stock.

I feel like between my sausage shaped fingers and my boxing glove shaped hands, I will need as much help as possible getting those rear bolts out and then back in. As a matter of fact I have become accustomed to using duct tape to hold nuts in place until I can get the bolts started............sad I know but it's the only way for this big guy to get these tiny tasks done..........

I really do appreciate all the help and suggestions form you guys though, honestly I do. So if you have any more, keep them coming.

Rob
 
I think once you get to it, all will fall in place. Nether the muffler or bracket change is rocket science, just some time and at times, some patience.
Good luck and call if any questions on shock brackets.
Dennis
 
Dennis,
I'm sure you are right. I always do this. I always let my early experiences as a vice grip and duct tape mechanic freak me out. Honestly though, I have a pretty nice collection of tools, and tonight I am adding this 1/2" Locking Flex Ratcheting Combination Wrench (say that 5 times real fast) to it.

And I already have a serious allen key set. I should be good. I just like to have as much information as possible before hand so it's almost like second nature to me and I don't get to a point and have to scratch my head wondering about something. Not to mention the fact that after all is said and done I will be scootin' up the road on this thing. If a muffler falls off that's one thing but a shock or lift bracket, that's a whole new bag O' worms.......

But I really appreciate the offer to be able to call. Thank you so much.

Rob
 
Dennis,
I'm sure you are right. I always do this. I always let my early experiences as a vice grip and duct tape mechanic freak me out. Honestly though, I have a pretty nice collection of tools, and tonight I am adding this 1/2" Locking Flex Ratcheting Combination Wrench (say that 5 times real fast) to it.

And I already have a serious allen key set. I should be good. I just like to have as much information as possible before hand so it's almost like second nature to me and I don't get to a point and have to scratch my head wondering about something. Not to mention the fact that after all is said and done I will be scootin' up the road on this thing. If a muffler falls off that's one thing but a shock or lift bracket, that's a whole new bag O' worms.......

But I really appreciate the offer to be able to call. Thank you so much.

Rob
The flex head will not work to well vesus a regular angle head rachet wrench. I tried both and the angled rachet head was the only thing that would work for me..Good Luck..
 
trikermutha,
Was it the locking type? This one is. I have no experience with either. I can get a "offset" box end ratcheting wrench but it is shorter than the flex version and I was thinking more torque would be better since the space is so cramped.

Thank you so much.
Rob
 
Yes I should have said a offset box rachet wrench. the flex head is too straight or flat to get the tool past the muffler lip on the bracket it faces upward.

I think they have a 30 deg head on them at sears..

here is what they look like make sure you get the wrench that can be used on both sides of the wrench when inserting into a bolt or nut.

Sears: Online department store featuring appliances, tools, fitness equipment and more
 

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