last winter

COOL!!!!!!!!!

What springs are you using on those forks?
Do you have a closer picture of them
 
reply to thread

will post better pic of fork later..............not very computer savvy! the fork according to onetonmagoo, is a springer look leading link...what your seeing for springs are nothing but 750 Honda shocks. there is a rocking link that's ties the shocks and the tubes together. larry
 
will post better pic of fork later..............not very computer savvy! the fork according to onetonmagoo, is a springer look leading link...what your seeing for springs are nothing but 750 Honda shocks. there is a rocking link that's ties the shocks and the tubes together. larry

I would love to see that rocking link section also
 
rocking link

I would love to see that rocking link section also[/QUOTE

I'm having problems compressing files to post pictures.....the first one must have been beginners luck. the link pivots on brackets welded under the fork tubes. the link is 1/2x1" hot rolled mtl. what I call the "hammers" are the strips that tie the shocks to the link bars. this keeps the shocks and bars in position while moving up and down. just a personal preference, but I like this look better than the leading link with the shocks mounted lower on the fork tubes.

larry

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+++++++++++++++

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Fowler look up onetonmagoo angelfire series on springer look leading link.......better info and pix than I can give. larry
 
fork

yep that's it! I followed his design.....but made the rocker taller to minimize the "arc" when the rods and shocks moved up and down.
 
details of rear suspension

100_0152.jpgsteering knuckles are rotated backward 90 degrees and bolted to a dropped straight axle. old school hairpin radius rods locate axle as does a panhard rod.. air bags and shocks complete the suspension....50 to 60 # of air puts the suspension in mid travel.

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pic does not show other end of radius rod....it fastens to the lower ball joint hole on the knuckle......the remaining end of the hair pin bolts to the steering arm on the knuckle... the single end of hair pin uses a heim joint bolted to the frame.
 
new rear wheels and tires

100_0204.jpgtrying to keep rearend of trike as narrow as possible......these wheels have a backspace of almost 6in. 18 inx7.5 do prefer mag style but ....
 
View attachment 40540trying to keep rearend of trike as narrow as possible......these wheels have a backspace of almost 6in. 18 inx7.5 do prefer mag style but ....

they set out too far. tires are nitto 225x45x18 I'm running about 25# seems about right.

this winter i'm going to fill in the doors and the quarter sections with 1/8 in stockcar plastic sheet. my plan was to make the trike a 3 season unit......we will see...with radiator behind seat there are of course heating problems.....will try a small scoop underneath and some baffling to direct the air better.
 
view from above

100_0196.jpgknew there would be overheating problems.......going to aluminum rad helped a lot.....but not enough.. there is a big updraft of air coming up between the rad and the forward part of the engine...I think the floorboards compress the air then it flows up..i'm hoping to direct this air thru the radiator from front to back....anyhow its something to think about this winter!
 
I like it, looks really nice. Does it overheat at slow speeds also and how do you like the front forks.ThumbUp
 
View attachment 40579knew there would be overheating problems.......going to aluminum rad helped a lot.....but not enough.. there is a big updraft of air coming up between the rad and the forward part of the engine...I think the floorboards compress the air then it flows up..i'm hoping to direct this air thru the radiator from front to back....anyhow its something to think about this winter!

why not move the rad behind the engine??
 
reply to thread

exhaust manifold is in back of engine...afraid it would melt aluminum rad!! I have made a scoop and have boxed in the rad..so think that will cure the problem. can't seem to upl
 
exhaust manifold is in back of engine...afraid it would melt aluminum rad!! I have made a scoop and have boxed in the rad..so think that will cure the problem. can't seem to upl

can't seen to upload pics tonite....scoop is under the rad, air will have to lift 6in to reach lower part of rad. I think it will work. Diver, the forks work very well...steers easy one hand...I have 45 rake and 2 in. of trail.....the only undesirable characteristic is when you back up at a mid to high angle of the fork ......it tends to flop to a sharper angle..so keep a stiff arm when backing up fast!! otherwise tracks well.....and rides well. larry
 
My radiator is sideways so air is a problem for me also . On my junk. I had a slight overheating problem above 55 . Now i use a davies craig electic pump and controller and problem solved. :clapping: .. Use to run one in Florida on my street strip car cooling a pro-charged 555. It will slow or speed the flow up or pulse it to what ever the controller temp is set at. pretty darn neat
 
reply to thread

Diver.....I'm assuming you mean an electric water pump.....don't quite understand how that works... I think Chrysler wants something like a 20 degree drop from the water exiting the head.....to entering the water pump. the radiator should remove that 20 without the fan having to run.....I will have to wait for summer to find out if it is fixed.... maybe with your setup moving more water faster... the rad doesn't have to remove as much heat per pass??? anyhow maybe you can go into more detail?? thanks.. larry
 
Diver.....I'm assuming you mean an electric water pump.....don't quite understand how that works... I think Chrysler wants something like a 20 degree drop from the water exiting the head.....to entering the water pump. the radiator should remove that 20 without the fan having to run.....I will have to wait for summer to find out if it is fixed.... maybe with your setup moving more water faster... the rad doesn't have to remove as much heat per pass??? anyhow maybe you can go into more detail?? thanks.. larry
It is a inline electric water pump that is small and very efficient. It has a controller the senses water temp and will speed the pump up or slow it down to stay in radiator longer so fans can cool the water. here is a link http://daviescraig.com.au/electric-water-pumps Read up as they have lots of info and instructions.

You can even take a one of their aux pumps and install a small heat core with a motorcycle fan to help you get rid of the heat. Ebay sometimes has super deals on the davi pumps
 
reply to thread

checked out the davies/craig link you gave, and u-tube... looks like a first rate setup...could definitly optimize radiator capacity.....that said ....the heat still has to get to the air...so I am banking on the shrouding and scoop to do the job. 2 other things to mention....new piston rings can make a little more heat,but about a 100 miles on it ....rings should be seated......one other thing...setting a code for no injector sync signal being recognized by the computer. have not worked on this problem other than replacing the hall effect pickup for inj. sync......didn,t help. larry
 
handlebar switches

IMG_20170316_160918.jpgadded these switches to each bar......Harley type...they had small wires so needed relays......from surplus center..
 
turn sig relays and flashers

IMG_20170124_103947.jpgthis relay panel will fold up and close the bottom of the dash....got to be quite a snarl of wire but everything works! not my quote, but it has been said,that the last 10 percent of the project takes 90 percent of the time...boy were they right!!
 
there is a thread here , called cooling solved. cooling is a common problem when good airflow is sub par.....suggest you make this a priority early on! Wish I did. Larry
 

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