Oil Cooler Update

[DK Custom Products]

kevin most of the talk is about running in hot climates I run a 2016 tri up here in Canada (Rocky Mountains of BC) and don't see a lot of high heat and am wondering if I would see a real benefit to adding the oil cooler (am planning a run to Alaska next summer though) most of my runs are hwy at about 225 miles each.thanks daryl.

Hi Daryl,

First off- Wow! What a great place to be able to ride! Dunno if I would want to be there in the winter. But we've spent a little time in the Rockies of BC and it IS AMAZING riding around up there!

My goal is to have my synthetic oil run between 210-230*. If I was running Dino oil I would be shooting for 190-210*.

These temps are measured at the dipstick.

On an air-cooled only Twin Cam I want to see my head temp between 210-230* also. If it is a Twin-Cooled, it should be 200-220*. (measured by the factory heat sensor that is at the back left of the front cylinder head)

The above temps are after 1 hour of solid running down the road, or 30 minutes in stop-n-go traffic.

I Never want to see oil temps or head temps over 250*, even in an extreme circumstance...that is when bad stuff starts happening.

So if your temps (oil & head) are staying below 250*, then I would not do anything, if they are going above, then I would look at the various things that can be done to cool things down. Here's a LINK to some good info on the subject.

So what is the best way/place to take a temperature??

The dipstick or there is a port at the bottom of the crankcase for an oil temp sensor. If you use the port in the crankcase, the oil will generally be about 5* warmer than at the dipstick.

I am curious as well, what temperature burns offs the impurities.

210* is going to burn everything off that will (that you want to) burn off.

Kevin

 

[woodmnctry]

Maybe I am a bit slow in the upper balcony but take the temperature at the dipstick port with "what" -- assume we are talking about some kind of device but what would that device be???

 

[geezerglide11441]

Hi Daryl,

First off- Wow! What a great place to be able to ride! Dunno if I would want to be there in the winter. But we've spent a little time in the Rockies of BC and it IS AMAZING riding around up there!

My goal is to have my synthetic oil run between 210-230*. If I was running Dino oil I would be shooting for 190-210*.

These temps are measured at the dipstick.

On an air-cooled only Twin Cam I want to see my head temp between 210-230* also. If it is a Twin-Cooled, it should be 200-220*. (measured by the factory heat sensor that is at the back left of the front cylinder head)

The above temps are after 1 hour of solid running down the road, or 30 minutes in stop-n-go traffic.

I Never want to see oil temps or head temps over 250*, even in an extreme circumstance...that is when bad stuff starts happening.

So if your temps (oil & head) are staying below 250*, then I would not do anything, if they are going above, then I would look at the various things that can be done to cool things down. Here's a LINK to some good info on the subject.







The dipstick or there is a port at the bottom of the crankcase for an oil temp sensor. If you use the port in the crankcase, the oil will generally be about 5* warmer than at the dipstick.




210* is going to burn everything off that will (that you want to) burn off.

Kevin

Kevin, on my 120r (dumbed down to a 120st) I have the OEM oil cooler/DK tank lift/Wards fans/extra capacity oil pan (1 1/2 qts extra)/low temp thermostat/DK relocated oil filter, and run full synthetic oil and my normals at sustained cruise are Head Temp 250 - 270 and my oil temps run from about 200 to 230 and the bike runs awesome!! I am sure the 10.5:1 compression is one contributing factor but I don't think these readings are hurting the motor. Also have a personal friend that is a top level HD Technician that agrees that these temps are normal, and his personal opinion is that owners are trying to keep their oil temp to low.

Roger

 

[rcurnayn]

Hi Daryl,

First off- Wow! What a great place to be able to ride! Dunno if I would want to be there in the winter. But we've spent a little time in the Rockies of BC and it IS AMAZING riding around up there!

My goal is to have my synthetic oil run between 210-230*. If I was running Dino oil I would be shooting for 190-210*.

These temps are measured at the dipstick.

On an air-cooled only Twin Cam I want to see my head temp between 210-230* also. If it is a Twin-Cooled, it should be 200-220*. (measured by the factory heat sensor that is at the back left of the front cylinder head)

The above temps are after 1 hour of solid running down the road, or 30 minutes in stop-n-go traffic.

I Never want to see oil temps or head temps over 250*, even in an extreme circumstance...that is when bad stuff starts happening.

So if your temps (oil & head) are staying below 250*, then I would not do anything, if they are going above, then I would look at the various things that can be done to cool things down. Here's a LINK to some good info on the subject.







The dipstick or there is a port at the bottom of the crankcase for an oil temp sensor. If you use the port in the crankcase, the oil will generally be about 5* warmer than at the dipstick.




210* is going to burn everything off that will (that you want to) burn off.

Kevin

Kevin,

So how do you actually see a head temp using the heat sensor? Is that an add on product like a tuner?

You would think that HD would display engine info with a setting for access in the Boom Box display screen.

Ron

 

[DK Custom Products]

Maybe I am a bit slow in the upper balcony but take the temperature at the dipstick port with "what" -- assume we are talking about some kind of device but what would that device be???

Harley and another company (can't remember their name right now) make a dipstick that has a Temperature gauge built into it. You can also remove the dipstick and put a kitchen probe type temp gauge in the hole to take the temp.

Kevin, on my 120r (dumbed down to a 120st) I have the OEM oil cooler/DK tank lift/Wards fans/extra capacity oil pan (1 1/2 qts extra)/low temp thermostat/DK relocated oil filter, and run full synthetic oil and my normals at sustained cruise are Head Temp 250 - 270 and my oil temps run from about 200 to 230 and the bike runs awesome!! I am sure the 10.5:1 compression is one contributing factor but I don't think these readings are hurting the motor. Also have a personal friend that is a top level HD Technician that agrees that these temps are normal, and his personal opinion is that owners are trying to keep their oil temp to low.

Roger

Hey Roger...that is a 120 with, as you said, higher compression. It is going to have higher head temps....but, as you said your oil temps are running great at 200-230, so the rest of the engine is not running at 250-270. I'd be happy with those oil numbers too. I'm not sure about the top end running at 270, but I am not familiar with the SE 120.

Kevin,

So how do you actually see a head temp using the heat sensor? Is that an add on product like a tuner?

You would think that HD would display engine info with a setting for access in the Boom Box display screen.

Ron

With a tuner you can display the engine sensor temp. You can also shoot it with an infrared gun if you don't have a tuner. Some tuners don't display it, but you can see it in a data-log that the tuner can make.

Kevin

 

[MikeyTX]

Installation Time

Kevin, what is the estimated install time for both kits ? This being predicated on my using my indie. Techs are certified btw. Mike

 

[DK Custom Products]

Kevin, what is the estimated install time for both kits ? This being predicated on my using my indie. Techs are certified btw. Mike

For an experienced tech, I would think 2 hours is generous for the first time. After that 1.5 is probably about right.

If they take 10 minutes and read all the instructions that come with it, Before they start, it will go faster.

Kevin

 

[MikeyTX]

Thank you.