Do you riders, when anticipating to slow down or a stop, down shift to lower gears?
Will that apply to much torque/wear on the transmission.
Cheers!
Will that apply to much torque/wear on the transmission.
Cheers!
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Do you riders, when anticipating to slow down or a stop, down shift to lower gears?
Will that apply to much torque/wear on the transmission.
Cheers!
I read an article from Stu Altman the GWRRA MC Tech. in the Wing World Magazine where he stated NEVER shift into 1st without coming to a full stop first.
Did he say why??
On most of our trike conversions the drive shaft and maybe CV joints are the weak link. Except for the few that have true "in line" drive shafts
Sorry. I spent an hour looking through past issues with no luck. But if memory is correct, I believe it had to do with the tendency of the tranny gears teeth not synced and become worn and then causing failures(Sorry for not having all the technical terms, I am tranny ignorant) For me though I can say that the clunking that the bike makes when down shifting into first unless you are stopped or a higher speed is too much for my comfort level. Goldwings are too expensive to repair. I do not down shift and (personally) see no need for it. For all the stories you hear of the transmission failures whether they are true or not, for me I would rather play it safe and use my brakes since that is what they were meant for. But that's just me. I shift as smooth as I can and enjoy the ride.Did he say why??
Lotta over thinking going on......![]()
I'm sure it was at least as large as the OEM bike's driveshaft? The transmission output shaft likely isn't any larger. Cars, trucks, etc generally use larger tube shafts to make the lightest drive shaft capable of transmitting the power while resisting whipping over longer distances between U-joints. Trikes tend to have pretty short shafts in comparison.I looked at how small the diameter was on that drive shaft was and couldn't believe my eyes compared
to the Roadsmith unit he was installing.
For me though I can say that the clunking that the bike makes when down shifting into first unless you are stopped or a higher speed is too much for my comfort level.
Sometimes I downshift some times I coast to a stop then shift down to 1st. To me it is no big deal either way. My Roadsmith conversion has full sized car U-joints and a Ford car diff. I don't worry a great deal about abusing any of the components.
I have done Run For The Wall 3 times (that's enough for me) while on the ride they tell all riders to not use their brakes. You are supposed to downshift under all circumstances. My response was a resounding screw you, breaks are too important to not use in a mass migration like that. They say that if you just touch your brakes it causes your brake light to come on and that confuses the riders behind you and then they hit their brakes.
Anyway I think that was a little much to ask of riders. And as for downshifting or not, it's like voting do what you want. If it breaks it breaks if it doesn't ride on.
Done right I don't think downshifting hurts anything. My Roadsmith has automotive Driveshaft, CV joints and differential all designed to handle more weight and horsepower than I have by a factor of 2 to 3 minimum. Downshifting in the Arkansas twisties is a necessity as we climb and descend hills; it is not just for braking.
AGREEdDone right I don't think downshifting hurts anything. My Roadsmith has automotive Driveshaft, CV joints and differential all designed to handle more weight and horsepower than I have by a factor of 2 to 3 minimum. Downshifting in the Arkansas twisties is a necessity as we climb and descend hills; it is not just for braking.