opinion on 2 different trikes

Jan 10, 2015
24
2
Martinez,GA
asking for opinions.... I know be careful what you ask for.
Comparing 2 GL1500 trikes,
A red 2000 with a Hannigan trike kit.. Daylight pulsating headlight, vented windshield, fog lights, reverse, cup holders, 83629 miles, c/b, New gel battery, am/fm stereo, 10 disc cd player. cruise control, rebuilt forks, raked frontend, complete tune up to include timing belts, intercom hookup, driver backrest. Comes with 2 new full face helmets and 2 1/2 helmets. for $15000
vs
a 1995 SE with a TriKing Kit, 79000 miles Most things equal except, No CD, No pulsating Headlight ( but does have ugraded Lights ), Only a rear cup holder, No helmets. Will need timing belt replacement at 100,000 miles ( correct? ), New tires ( less than 1000 miles ) $10,500
 
the major recommendation to the TriKing kit is that it will have their patented auto leveling system which actually works quite will(I have 1990 SE/TriKing). Does the Hannigan you are looking at have the independent rear suspension or is it the solid axle? If it is a solid axle I would go with TriKing as I think the Hannigan is overpriced. I think the TriKing is overpriced also but if he would come down 1000 to 1500 you would get fewer miles and a good trike at a more reasonable price. With the savings you could add all that stuff and have money left over.They are both quality kits but if the Hannigan has the IRS go with it,the ride will be better.
If you have an untriked Goldwing you can trike it at TriKing for 10,999 complete installed.

- - - Updated - - -

I just noticed that the 1995 is an SE which means that it will have a reverse,and all the audio system goodies including intercom except the 10 CD player. Sierra Electronics will add a patch cord to your SE audio system for $100 + shipping so you can play an mp3,ipod,etc through the audio system.
 
I would go with the 2000 Wing with Hannigan kit. For starters, Honda made significant changes in the 1997 model year (I owned one) that include better cooling, two transmission gears recut, and some other improvements. Second, I'm partial to Hannigan anything. I own a Roadsmith but my choice came down to RS or Hannigan.

If the 2000 is also an SE model, then it wins hands down in IMO. (You didn't say what model it was.)
 
IMHO the Hannigan will only be better if it is the IRS rear end. If it is a solid axle the TriKing will be as good and a lot cheaper. You can make a lot of improvements or travel a lot of miles on $5000.00. Quality is as good as the Hannigan and has been around since the early 80's but it is strictly a solid axle type kit.BTW the TriKing has seperate fenders so if you trash one(easy to do for a new trike rider)you only have to replace that fender not the whole body. I would think that since the 2000 is red it is probably not an SE. Weren't those mostly that pearl white?
 
The only true test is ride both, and get the price down. Then you will know which one is the best for your money. Just remember many of the responses may be coming from people who own one or the other in question. Once they have made their choice, they will tell you theirs is the best. Just Human Nature at work.
 
I agree! The best test is to ride them and then select the one that you can envision yourself riding for the next xxx years. You could find yourself going for what you believe is the best $$$ value, but after a few miles, not be happy with what you bought!

Good luck with your decision and many happy miles of riding. 😀
 
I may try to test drive the red one Saturday if it is still available. I am worried about the drum brakes on the white one. It stopped straight but if seemed to be a slower stop to me. Owner said I needed to use more pedal. He said he had just replaced the pads. It Has a mustang rear end. I talked to Trimming and they do not recommend converting to disk brakes. Stated with integrated front brake I IFT have problem doing too quickly and un-safely. Cost might be very high also.

I am thinking the white is more visible to car drivers.

The red one was dropped from 16500 to 15000. Owner will take no less for white one.
 
Gl1800

Found an 02 gl 1800 se ,164,000 mile, Roadsmith kit, dual gas tank, $14500. This sounds like a really good deal to me. 80 year old selling his wife's bike. He continues to ride his MotorTrike conversion. Says he does not need 2 bikes. I know nothing about the 1800. Is the 02 a good year. Any opinions? I think this might be a better value than the 95 Trikking
 
I would go for the 1800,so many improvements over the 1500. I would still bargain with him some.

BTW I just sold my TriKing but 6825 was the best I could get. Now a happy Spyder owner
 
I bought the 02 1800. drove it back from south GA about 4 hour drive. Got a chance to get used to it. The driving is very different from a 2 wheeler but still a lot of fun. With the mileage I went ahead and put it in shop to have a complete service of the Honda end. What PM should I do on the car end?

Glad you like your spyder. I almost bought a 2011 RTm but decided against it. Our local shop charges $125 labor hour and there were some other reasons also for me not buying it. Which model did you buy.
 
Spyder

I would go for the 1800,so many improvements over the 1500. I would still bargain with him some.

BTW I just sold my TriKing but 6825 was the best I could get. Now a happy Spyder owner

Keep us up on the Spyder experience, don't have one, but I always read the posts.
 
What Year , Model # and mileage on the Roadsmith Kit...? Did you get a Manual on the kit? IRS or Solid axle? The Model Number is on a tag attached to the kit frame and I believe stamped on the axle.... them call Roadsmith / Taylor with the number and he can tell you what you have.... FYI

http://www.roadsmithtrikes.com/ -

3744 Schueneman Road

White Bear Lake, MN
phone (651) 777-7774

I bought the 02 1800. drove it back from south GA about 4 hour drive. Got a chance to get used to it. The driving is very different from a 2 wheeler but still a lot of fun. With the mileage I went ahead and put it in shop to have a complete service of the Honda end. What PM should I do on the car end?

Glad you like your spyder. I almost bought a 2011 RTm but decided against it. Our local shop charges $125 labor hour and there were some other reasons also for me not buying it. Which model did you buy.
 
Bob, you posted few weeks back your system for draining the RS final, small hole in the trunk, etc, now I can't find it, can you point me in the right direction? Thanks.,
 
Can I read that tag without jacking up the bike. It is an rt model that is no longer made . thanks for your response. I contacted Roadsmith and they have sent me a PDF yesterday, but I have not had time to open. At lunch break at work now.
 
below are the spec from the manual. I am assuming this is not IRS. I am not mechanicallu inclined. Curios, what are the pros/cons? Too late now, but just for info. Thanks

Differential Ratio:
2.76 (Mopar product) 7 ¼” ring gear - gear ratio is equal to stock bike ratio
with 25 ½” diameter tires
80/90W gear lube - fill to ½” below fill hole
CV joints: part number 113501331HH, Application 1969 or newer Volkswagen Beetle
CV boots: part number VW113501149, Application 1969 or newer Volkswagen Beetle
Axles: custom 1 1/16” splined axle
Ax l e seals: part number VW113501315
Drive Shaft:
1-1/4" diameter automotive style with u-joints
U-joint part number: 5-153X, 5-353X (grease once per year)
Brakes rear:
11” automotive style disc brakes
Dual piston calipers
Application: VW Type 3 front
Wheel bearings:
Inner VW #113-501-283
Outer VW #113-501-277A
Rear Tires:
Radial tires P215/60R-15
Air Shocks:
St-18 uses stock shocks for 1969 or newer Volkswagen Beetle
Lt-15: Connects to bike’s air compressor using Progressive air shock adapter
Valkyrie: Air fitting located inside trunk – back wall
Gabriel Hijacker air shocks – part number GAB39507
200psi maximum air pressure
Suspension:
2 - 310lb Coil Springs: mechanically adjustable custom by The Trike Shop
Shock Support Arms and Suspension Mounting Brackets:
Flame-cut hot-rolled steel
Mechanical Properties of Flame Cut Hot Rolled Steel:
ASTM-A-570; Grade 33; Tensile Strength - 52,000psi; Yield Strength - 33,000psi
Carbon Max: .25; Phosphorus: .040 max. Manganese: .90 max.;
O p t i o n a l G a s T a n k –
S t-1 8 c a p a c i t y : 5 g a l l o n s ; L t-1 5 c a p a c i t y : 9 g a l l o n s
F u e l p u m p : A i r t e x p a r t n u m b e r E 8 0 1 6 s
S o l e n o i d : S t a n d a r d p a r t n u m b e r F V 1
 
Bob, you posted few weeks back your system for draining the RS final, small hole in the trunk, etc, now I can't find it, can you point me in the right direction? Thanks.,

I have just installed this in my Roadsmith rear end / just in love with the new Synthetics...... I put a hole thru the bottom of trunk just large enough for the clear tubing that fit the bottle very tightly and let it gravity flow with a little help every once in a while. When I was thru I used one of my bait well snap plugs to close the hole til next time. Oil can would break your fingers as this is 75W-90 and a funnel you'll need a nap.... thankfully on my R/S if you get the hole drilled in the right spot it makes a straighter shot and the plug is under the carpet..... but that's just me..... FYI

Most quality auto parts stores and even Walmart carries this.....

SynPower® Full Synthetic Gear Oil

Formulated for ultimate protection and performance

  • Contains additives to assist in protecting gear teeth
  • Maintains excellent low temperature fluid protection down to -50°F (-46°C)
  • Provides outstanding thermal stability for cleanliness and longer service life
  • Contains special additives to reduce chattering in limited-slip differentials
  • Recommended for (conventional and limited slip) manual transmissions where an API GL-5 or MT-1 fluid is specified
  • Protects parts from rust and corrosion
  • Compatible with conventional gear lubricants
 
below are the spec from the manual. I am assuming this is not IRS. I am not mechanicallu inclined. Curios, what are the pros/cons? Too late now, but just for info. Thanks

Differential Ratio:
2.76 (Mopar product) 7 ¼” ring gear - gear ratio is equal to stock bike ratio
with 25 ½” diameter tires
80/90W gear lube - fill to ½” below fill hole
CV joints: part number 113501331HH, Application 1969 or newer Volkswagen Beetle
CV boots: part number VW113501149, Application 1969 or newer Volkswagen Beetle
Axles: custom 1 1/16” splined axle
Ax l e seals: part number VW113501315
Drive Shaft:
1-1/4" diameter automotive style with u-joints
U-joint part number: 5-153X, 5-353X (grease once per year)
Brakes rear:
11” automotive style disc brakes
Dual piston calipers
Application: VW Type 3 front
Wheel bearings:
Inner VW #113-501-283
Outer VW #113-501-277A
Rear Tires:
Radial tires P215/60R-15
Air Shocks:
St-18 uses stock shocks for 1969 or newer Volkswagen Beetle
Lt-15: Connects to bike’s air compressor using Progressive air shock adapter
Valkyrie: Air fitting located inside trunk – back wall
Gabriel Hijacker air shocks – part number GAB39507
200psi maximum air pressure
Suspension:
2 - 310lb Coil Springs: mechanically adjustable custom by The Trike Shop
Shock Support Arms and Suspension Mounting Brackets:
Flame-cut hot-rolled steel
Mechanical Properties of Flame Cut Hot Rolled Steel:
ASTM-A-570; Grade 33; Tensile Strength - 52,000psi; Yield Strength - 33,000psi
Carbon Max: .25; Phosphorus: .040 max. Manganese: .90 max.;
O p t i o n a l G a s T a n k –
S t-1 8 c a p a c i t y : 5 g a l l o n s ; L t-1 5 c a p a c i t y : 9 g a l l o n s
F u e l p u m p : A i r t e x p a r t n u m b e r E 8 0 1 6 s
S o l e n o i d : S t a n d a r d p a r t n u m b e r F V 1

You'll have to crawl under to find the Tag on the frame or on the rear end... RT Model...? Solidaxle I would assume.... still a good unit.... just check it over well... they still have parts available if needed.... just call Taylor again and he's get them out....to ya.... good guys!!! 1st Class....
 
Here's a tip, that 5 gallon aux tank, don't try and get 5 gallons of fuel in that tank, you'll have gas on the pavement. I'm assuming that there's maybe 1/2 gallon or so the pump cannot transfer, so if you're real careful, there's 4.5 gallons you can pump into that tank.
 
Thanks Bob. Quick question, do you fill at 1" below the top of the fill hole, or close? How much do you put in, guess that would be the best question.
 

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