Honda GL 1500 rake kit

[Grime]

Hi all this is my first post I have just fitted a 6 degree hawghalters rake kit to my Honda GL 1500 with motor trike kit (solid rear axle) the trike is now very twitchy and feels dangerous to ride. The dealer (the motor works) tell me because I have a solid rear axle that normal and there is nothing I can do about it. Living in Australia it cost me nearly $1000 to get it here.
I was reccomended this kit by the manufacturers of the tripple tree. Any one got any ideas how to fix this or do I just refit the std tripple tree
any help appreciated
Grime

 

[Lucky]

I don't know how many miles you have ridden with the 6 degree, but it takes some getting used to. It is a lot more responsive to handlebar movement. It may be just a learning curve. IMUO the solid rear end has vvery little to do with it. RIDE SAFE

 

[Papa Zook]

Hi all this is my first post I have just fitted a 6 degree hawghalters rake kit to my Honda GL 1500 with motor trike kit (solid rear axle) the trike is now very twitchy and feels dangerous to ride. The dealer (the motor works) tell me because I have a solid rear axle that normal and there is nothing I can do about it. Living in Australia it cost me nearly $1000 to get it here.
I was reccomended this kit by the manufacturers of the tripple tree. Any one got any ideas how to fix this or do I just refit the std tripple tree
any help appreciated
Grime

It will take some getting used to since you have been riding without the benefit of a rake kit but with a little adjustment, I think you will find it satisfactory. Here is my recommendation.

First off, remove the triangular plastic handlebar cover, then remove the upper lock nut from the steering stem, (you will need to flatten the splines of the star retainer washer to be able to remove the top nut and get to access to the second, or lower stem nut) next re-torque the second (lower) nut to 45ft lbs of torque and re-install the star washer and top lock nut.

Some installers do not torque these nuts at all because it requires a special large, slotted socket. I have found some just tap the nuts snug with a flat blade screwdriver. This, along with the bearing cups (races) not being fully seated with a bearing driver during installation, makes for a very loose front end. That may well be what you are experiencing.

Next, get out and put some miles on the bike and I think you will find that youre getting accustomed and more comfortable with the steering. A 6 degree rake on a short, solid axle trike is sensitive, but not inherently dangerous, it just feels that way because it is such a change from what you had.

 

[Grime]

It will take some getting used to since you have been riding without the benefit of a rake kit but with a little adjustment, I think you will find it satisfactory. Here is my recommendation.

First off, remove the triangular plastic handlebar cover, then remove the upper lock nut from the steering stem, (you will need to flatten the splines of the star retainer washer to be able to remove the top nut and get to access to the second, or lower stem nut) next re-torque the second (lower) nut to 45ft lbs of torque and re-install the star washer and top lock nut.

Some installers do not torque these nuts at all because it requires a special large, slotted socket. I have found some just tap the nuts snug with a flat blade screwdriver. This, along with the bearing cups (races) not being fully seated with a bearing driver during installation, makes for a very loose front end. That may well be what you are experiencing.

Next, get out and put some miles on the bike and I think you will find that youre getting accustomed and more comfortable with the steering. A 6 degree rake on a short, solid axle trike is sensitive, but not inherently dangerous, it just feels that way because it is such a change from what you had.

Thanks for your help I will re check the nut torque * I have increased rear air pressure to 220 KPA and that felt a bit better do you have any suggestions for air pressure. I will get out and ride after20000km with std rake it is now very different. Thanks again Grime

 

[Papa Zook]

Thanks for your help I will re check the nut torque * I have increased rear air pressure to 220 KPA and that felt a bit better do you have any suggestions for air pressure. I will get out and ride after20000km with std rake it is now very different. Thanks again Grime

As for air pressure there is no exact "must be this" number, but a range of between 20-25 lbs in the rear tires is what I recommend, some recommend more but you will sacrifice ride quality if you go higher than 25lbs, 20-22 is the sweet spot for me.

Your sweet spot will depend on your style of riding, the terrain, one or two up, etc. Dont be afraid to experiment with your rear tire pressure as this is the single biggest variable in ride quality, assuming all else is in proper working order with your trike's suspension system. As for front tire air pressure, always run max recommended pressure as stated on your front tire.

Also, the Motor Trike solid axle conversions run a ladder bar rear suspension, with heim joints located on either side of the front of the ladder bars. These need to be inspected periodically as some have been known to strip their attachment threads out of the heim couplers, which is something you dont want to happen. Further, it is recommended that the heim knuckle be lubricated with a silicone based spray-on lubricant every couple of thousand miles to prevent them from binding.

Whether not lubricating the knuckels is causing the heim joint failures I cannot say for sure but these are two areas that I would pay attention to, particularly if the trike has some age/miles on it. It might be worth emailing Motor Trike with your vin number in order to ensure yours are the newer ones.

Lastly, Motor Trike uses a small air bag type of rear shocks so adjusting the air pressure is pretty straightforward with these shocks. If they leak down frequently and most do, a good short to mid term fix is to air them up to 90lbs and let them sit overnight then lower back down to your preferred air pressure the next day. This balloons the air lines slightly and helps seal the o-rings at the shocks and T fittings and is a well known fix for this problem.

I hope this helps and if you have any more questions, give me a shout.

P.S.- I edited my first post and this one a bit for clarification.

 

[Grime]

As for air pressure there is no exact "must be this" number, but a range of between 20-25 lbs in the rear tires is what I recommend, some recommend more but you will sacrifice ride quality if you go higher than 25lbs, 20-22 is the sweet spot for me.

Your sweet spot will depend on your style of riding, the terrain, one or two up, etc. Dont be afraid to experiment with your rear tire pressure as this is the single biggest variable in ride quality, assuming all else is in proper working order with your trike's suspension system. As for front tire air pressure, always run max recommended pressure as stated on your front tire.

Also, the Motor Trike solid axle conversions run a ladder bar rear suspension, with heim joints located on either side of the front of the ladder bars. These need to be inspected periodically as some have been known to strip their attachment threads out of the heim couplers, which is something you dont want to happen. Further, it is recommended that the heim knuckle be lubricated with a silicone based spray-on lubricant every couple of thousand miles to prevent them from binding.

Whether not lubricating the knuckels is causing the heim joint failures I cannot say for sure but these are two areas that I would pay attention to, particularly if the trike has some age/miles on it. It might be worth emailing Motor Trike with your vin number in order to ensure yours are the newer ones.

Lastly, Motor Trike uses a small air bag type of rear shock so adjusting the air pressure is pretty straightforward with these shocks. If they leak down frequently and most do, a good short to mid term fix is to air them up to 90lbs and let them sit overnight then lower back down to your preferred air pressure the next day. This balloons the air lines slightly and helps seal the o-rings at the shocks and T fittings and is a well known fix for this problem.

I hope this helps and if you have any more questions, give me a shout.

P.S.- I edited my first post and this one a bit for clarification.

Thanks very much for that it is so good to get some help in Australia with the trikes. Not a lot of knowledge here yet.
I had torqued my tripple tree nut to 14 ft/lbs of torque as per manual but I will re do it to 45 ft/ lbs as you reccomended. I will also contact motor trike. Thanks again for your help I will let you know how I go Regards Grime

 

[Papa Zook]

Thanks very much for that it is so good to get some help in Australia with the trikes. Not a lot of knowledge here yet.
I had torqued my tripple tree nut to 14 ft/lbs of torque as per manual but I will re do it to 45 ft/ lbs as you reccomended. I will also contact motor trike. Thanks again for your help I will let you know how I go Regards Grime

What you want to achieve with the new tapered replacement bearing set in place is a slight bit of fall away pressure, that is, it should take a bit of pressure to turn the forks right to left when the front wheel is raised one inch off the ground. If the forks flop left to right as they are torqued now, it is too loose. You can start with less than 45lbs if you'd like and work up from there, noting the amount of pressure it takes to rotate the forks. Over the years that is where I personally liked mine set on the 6 degree rake kits, on the shorter trikes, otherwise it will feel really loose. Also make sure the bearings are well greased.

 

[Grime]

What you want to achieve with the new tapered replacement bearing set in place is a slight bit of fall away pressure, that is, it should take a bit of pressure to turn the forks right to left. If the forks flop left to right as they are torqued now, it is too loose. You can start with less than 45lbs if you'd like and work up from there, noting the amount of pressure it takes to rotate the forks. Over the years that is where I personally liked mine set on the 6 degree rake kits, on the shorter trikes, otherwise it will feel really loose. Also make sure the bearing are well greased.

Thanks again I have done exactly as you advised I will ride tomorrow and let you know how it goes. Experienced people who know trikes are hard to find it's a big learning curve I am a qualified senior motor mechanic starting my time out on motorcycles but the trike scene is so different I love them as I have had so many pieces replace due to motorcycles and my body loves the the ride. I hope to do a sportster trike my self in the near future and will be definitely after some info regarding kits etc. I still have 2 two wheeled motorcycles but my body now prefers3 wheels. Thanks again for the excellent work. Grime

 

[Grime]

Thanks again I have done exactly as you advised I will ride tomorrow and let you know how it goes. Experienced people who know trikes are hard to find it's a big learning curve I am a qualified senior motor mechanic starting my time out on motorcycles but the trike scene is so different I love them as I have had so many pieces replace due to motorcycles and my body loves the the ride. I hope to do a sportster trike my self in the near future and will be definitely after some info regarding kits etc. I still have 2 two wheeled motorcycles but my body now prefers3 wheels. Thanks again for the excellent work. Grime

Thanks again for you help steering pre load nut set to 45 ft/lbs , rear tyres 22 psi , front tyre 41 psi it has made a huge difference. What front tyre would you reccomended when replacement time comes. Regards Grime

- - - Updated - - -

Thanks again for you help steering pre load nut set to 45 ft/lbs , rear tyres 22 psi , front tyre 41 psi it has made a huge difference What front tyre would you reccomended when replacement time comes. Regards Grime

One more thing I have to have spring pre load on right rear shocker up as high as it can go and the left shocker spring pre load set to it's softest setting other wise the bike leans to the right. I was told to do this by the people who fitted the kit from motor trike. I bought this trike off the last owner as he couldn't ride it I don't think he got much help from the dealer ( eagle trikes Queensland Aust ). Do you know of better springs for the rear shockers and can you fit a stabiliser bar Regard Graham

 

[Papa Zook]

Thanks again for you help steering pre load nut set to 45 ft/lbs , rear tyres 22 psi , front tyre 41 psi it has made a huge difference What front tyre would you reccomended when replacement time comes. Regards Grime

Glad you had a good result from the tweeks I gave you. I know some folks have a hard time with the idea of torquing to 40-45lbs, but many years of personal experience has shown me it works well and will not compromise the flat tapered bearings that Hawg Halters supplies. As for the front tire, I recommend the Bridgestone BT-45. It's about as wide a tire as you'll get under the GL1500 fender and it has an excellent tread life. Its actually a rear sport bike tire and some run it in reverse rotation while others run it forward. I run mine in the forward rotation, but I have no real preference on that and will leave it up to you to research and make your own decision. There are numerous threads on this forum with opposing views on that one.

One more thing I have to have spring pre load on right rear shocker up as high as it can go and the left shocker spring pre load set to it's softest setting other wise the bike leans to the right. I was told to do this by the people who fitted the kit from motor trike. I bought this trike off the last owner as he couldn't ride it I don't think he got much help from the dealer ( eagle trikes Queensland Aust ). Do you know of better springs for the rear shockers and can you fit a stabiliser bar Regard Graham

Do you know what year your Motor Trike kit was built? Does it run both the coil-over shocks and the air bags as in the picture above or just shocks? If it has both, are the air bags taking and holding air?

Either way, there is no good reason to have to set the pre-load of opposing shocks to the highest/lowest settings in order to level the trike. This is not the the correct fix. The problem you are most likely having is that the heim joints in the front of your ladder bars are binding. This will make your bike sit at a lean. Read my previous posts above about checking and lubricating the heim joints and get back to me once you have. If that is not the problem, we will figure it out and have you on the right track straight away.