Engine light

[hisst]

My engine light on my 2012 Goldwing has now come on 5 times so guess it's time to try and find the problem.
Can anyone walk me thru on how to get the codes. What light would I need to watch to receive the codes. Thanks
hisst

 

[Mick]

This was borrowed from the Goldwingdocs site.

If FI (Fault Indicator) light comes on pull over but DO NOT shut bike off. Put in neutral and put side stand down, RPM’s below 1500. This signals the ECM to send the error code to the FI light. Count the number of long and short flashes. This will give you the error code.

If you shut the bike off the error code is lost - sort of. It will be retained in the ECM but it is harder to get out. If the bike stops and the will not restart you can get the FI light to flash the error code by cranking the engine for 10 seconds. The FI light will then flash the error code.

Long Blink = 10 Short Blink = 1
i.e. long long long short short short = 33 check error code 33

Number of MIL blinks .Symptoms .Cause

0 No blinks • Engine does not start

• Open circuit in the power input and ground wires of the ECM: • Faulty bank angle sensor
• Open circuit in bank angle sensor related wires: • Faulty FI IGN relay: • Open circuit in FI IGN relay related wires
• Faulty engine stop switch: • Open circuit in engine stop switch related wires: • Faulty ECM: • Blown FI IGN fuse (20 A)
• Blown ST. KILL fuse (10 A):

0 No blinks • Engine operates normally
• Open circuit in MIL wire: • Faulty combination meter: • Faulty ECM


0 Stays lit • Engine operates normally
• Short circuit in service check connector wire: • Short circuit in MIL wire: • Faulty ECM


1 Blinks • Engine operates normally
• Loose or poorly connected MAP sensor connector: • Open or short circuit in MAP sensor wire: • Faulty MAP sensor


7 Blinks • Hard to start at a low temperature (ECM controls using preset value; coolant temperature: 85° C/185° F)
• Loose or poorly connected ECT sensor connector: • Open or short circuit in ECT sensor wire: • Faulty ECT sensor


8 Blinks • Poor engine response when operating the throttle quickly (ECM controls using preset value; throttle opening: 0° )
• Loose or poorly connected TP sensor connector: • Open or short circuit in TP sensor wire: • Faulty TP sensor


9 Blinks • Engine operates normally (ECM controls using preset value; intake air temperature: 28° C/82° F)
• Loose or poorly connected IAT sensor connector
• Open or short circuit in TP sensor wire: • Faulty IAT sensor


10 Blinks • Engine operates normally at low altitude
• Engine idles roughly at a high altitude (ECM controls using preset value; barometric pressure: 760 mm Hg/1,013 hPa)
• Loose or poorly connected BARO sensor connector: • Open or short circuit in BARO sensor wire: • Faulty BARO sensor


11 Blinks • Engine operates normally
• Loose or poorly connected vehicle speed sensor connector
• Open or short circuit in vehicle speed sensor wire: • Faulty vehicle speed sensor


12 Blinks • Engine does not start
• Loose or poorly connected No. 1 injector connector: • Open or short circuit in No. 1 injector wire: • Faulty No. 1 injector


13 Blinks • Engine does not start
• Loose or poorly connected No. 2 injector connector: • Open or short circuit in No. 2 injector wire: • Faulty No. 2 injector


14 No blinks • Engine does not start
• Loose or poorly connected No. 3 injector connector: • Open or short circuit in No. 3 injector wire: • Faulty No. 3 injector


15 Blinks • Engine does not start
• Loose or poorly connected No. 4 injector connector: • Open or short circuit in No. 4 injector wire: • Faulty No. 4 injector



16 Blinks • Engine does not start
• Loose or poorly connected No. 5 injector connector: • Open or short circuit in No. 5 injector wire: • Faulty No. 5 injector


17 Blinks • Engine does not start
• Loose or poorly connected No. 6 injector connector: • Open or short circuit in No. 6 injector wire: • Faulty No. 6 injector


18 Blinks • Engine does not start
• Loose or poorly connected camshaft position sensor connector
• Open or short circuit in camshaft position sensor wire: • Faulty camshaft position sensor


19 Blinks • Engine does not start
• Loose or poorly connected ignition pulse generator connector:
• Open or short circuit in ignition pulse generator wire: • Faulty ignition pulse generator


21 Blinks • Engine operates normally
• Open or short circuit in right O2 sensor wire: • Faulty right O2 sensor


22 Blinks • Engine operates normally
• Open or short circuit in left O2 sensor wire: • Faulty left O2 sensor


23 Blinks • Engine operates normally
• Open or short circuit in right O2 sensor heater wire: • Faulty right O2 sensor


24 Blinks • Engine operates normally
• Open or short circuit in left O2 sensor heater wire: • Faulty left O2 sensor


25 Blinks • Engine operates normally
• Loose or poorly connected right knock sensor connector: • Open or short circuit in right knock sensor wire: • Faulty right knock sensor


26 Blinks • Engine operates normally
• Loose or poorly connected left knock sensor connector: • Open or short circuit in left knock sensor wire: • Faulty left knock sensor

29 Blinks • Engine stalls, hard to start, rough idling
• Loose or poorly connected idle air control (IAC) valve connector: • Open or short circuit in IAC valve wire: • Faulty idle air control valve


33 Blinks • ECM does not hold the self diagnostic data
• Faulty E2-PROM in ECM • Engine operates normally


41 No blinks • Engine operates normally
• Loose or poorly connected connector in gear position switch related circuits
• Open or short circuit in gear position switch wires: • Faulty gear position switch: • Faulty clutch switch: • Faulty side stand switch

Hope it helps.

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[Lucky]

WOW That's good info. Hope it solves the problem. RIDE SAFE

 

[hisst]

This is hard to do with no side stand an the bike does starts

 

[Gold Rush]

This is hard to do with no side stand an the bike does starts

Most installers zip tie the side stand switch to something under the left engine cover. Remove the zip tie and rotate the switch until you see the "S" appear on your dash. That indicates a "side stand down condition" I installed a hidden switch that does this exact thing. Also acts as a very inexpensive theft deterrent. Anyone want more info email me at goldrush06@suddenlink.net :xszpv::xszpv:

 

[SMSgt]

Howard
Any chance you can take that 2012 to a dealer? Is it still under warranty?
Later
Kent

 

[hisst]

Howard Any chance you can take that 2012 to a dealer? Is it still under warranty? Later Kent

My dealer told me that many times the codes get erased for some reason and if there is no code.....it's a 189 dollar charge that I would need to pay. They said about 50% of the time they get erased
hisst

 

[SMSgt]

Well I guess all I can say is good luck. I know there are code readers available for cars, I have one. Are there any code readers available for the Gold Wing?

 

[hisst]

I did get the code from shorting the wires in the red connector under the seat. It's my 4th injector. Called my dealer to get it checked out an my dealer had me talk to their tech and asked me some questions and told me to run some injector cleaner and see if that clears it up and if it doesn't then bring it in.
Hisst

 

[Gold Rush]

I did get the code from shorting the wires in the red connector under the seat. It's my 4th injector. Called my dealer to get it checked out an my dealer had me talk to their tech and asked me some questions and told me to run some injector cleaner and see if that clears it up and if it doesn't then bring it in.
Hisst

Glad to see you got a handle on the light. YUP injector cleaner might just do the trick. I like to use SeaFoam. Many of us have used it for years. Pick up a quart and pour the whole thing in the gas tank then go for a long ride. It might take two tanks but if that doesn't do it then the injector is just bad. :xszpv::xszpv:

Good luck with the fix!!