Back with another question

Dec 7, 2014
723
552
Lexington, SC
Name
Dan
:wave4:Hey Ya'll it's me again.......

OK I have adjusted the air pressure in rear tires to 24 psi and 41 in front, rear air ride at 39 psi (MT recommended for 300-400 lbs rider and stuff).

Straight line handling is MUCH improved....but the ride is like a Wagon!!!
I dropped the rear tires to 22 psi but notice no difference. My Wife says she feels every little bump in the road and even a small pot hole jars the fillings in her teeth.

Are we just used to the smooth ride of a 2 wheeler, Do Trikes ride stiffer than a 2 wheelers???

I just received my Rake kit from Zook today and will get it installed in a few weeks. I hope this will help with stiff steering and maybe help the ride a bit.

I did notice that the regular shocks are set at the Lowest setting and I didn't adjust any higher because it may increase the stiffness.

Any comments or direction as always would be much appreciated.

Danny :xzqxz:
 
Had the same problem with the MT kit on the Valkyrie. We ride with the shocks on the second lowest setting, and only 20psi in the air ride. Rear tires are at 20 psi. The ride is much better, but can still be a little harsh on rough roads.
 
You might not like my opinions here.
2 wheels can and does ride smoother then 3.
Still not sure if your kit was like my Valkyrie but a straight axle is a stiffer ride then an independent setup.
Play with your pressure settings.
More so with the rear shock then the tire pressures.
Not much encouragement I can offer.
If your area has crappy pot hole filled roads you might never be happy.
I bought a 2nd Honda, my current bike a 2010 and I feel I should have known better but didn't.
The front end having 1 shock and one dampener is the crappiest front end in motorcycling there is in my opinion and has been my biggest disappointment in Hondas premiere bike.
Every ones expectations are different then the reality of trike riding.
For the wife you might want to look into a gel pad seat cover.
 
Good Morning Danny... Here's my take on your question. Part of the problem is due to your trike's design and part just plain old laws of nature. You have a suspension that would love to have a 3000 pound car setting on it and your wife is perched directly over the rear wheels (worst of both worlds). I think I'd set the regular shock up a notch or two and drop the air ride pressure down to low 30s for normal riding. That is where my '06 MT Adventure is sit. When you get into the twisties then by all means pump the suspension up to high 30s or low 40s to combat body roll.

Like has already been said. Some of it is the nature of the beast. Some of it you can tweak a bit. Did you get that pressure relief valve working? If not I guess you are still in the waiting mode. Sorry for the discomfort. I know it takes a lot of the JOY our of riding when you and the wife are getting beat up all the time. Hope you get thing dialed in soon. :xszpv::xszpv:
 
I have A 2012 Road Smith conversion on a 2005 GW, no accuride (no air adjust suspension), I have investigated the suspension ad neauseum and have come to the conclusion it is the nature of the beast for 'bumps in the road' to be amplified on 3 wheels. First, on 3 wheels it is most difficult to avoid bumps, uneven pavement, vs 2 wheels, so us 3 wheel drivers and partners notice it more. As to psi in the rear tires, RS recommends 26 to 30 and not going under 25 which can promote tire wear and side wall deterioration.

Someone mentioned tightening up the springs. Seems that would amplify even more imperfections in the ride. My RS has progressive coil over shocks run out to the max, the tech that was the best he could do.....

I'd like to see this thread continuing to expand, some may have better ideas on 'how to' improve the ride.
 
2 wheels can and does ride smoother then 3.

You have a suspension that would love to have a 3000 pound car setting on it

have come to the conclusion it is the nature of the beast for 'bumps in the road' to be amplified on 3 wheels.
IMO, 3 wheels can be a lot smoother than 2, if the correct conversion is picked.
That would be one w/an extended wheel base and IRS system that "works" the way it should.
Short wheel base SA's are the worst, still OK in my book, just not near as good at "taking" the bumps.
Getting those rear wheels out from under the passenger's bottom does a lot for comfort of both rider and passenger.:clapping:

I don't know of any trike manufacturers that designed their suspensions to have 3,000 pounds sitting on them:Shrug:

Again, longer wheel base, proper air pressure in the rear tires and not going w/the masses on front tire pressure(I run 36psi) does not "amplify" bumps/dips in the road.ThumbUp
 
IRS rides much more compliant than a solid rear axle. You are gonna' get an "ever so slightly" better ride with the Rake Kit also, because there will less bump impact, and head shake transferred through the Frame. Your front suspension will settle back to neutral much sooner.....don't expect "miracles", but there will be a difference. Yes, 2 wheels will always be somewhat "smoother" simply because the wheels are in line instead of the two rear wheels finding the bumps You missed with the front wheel. Just keep making adjustments and taking notes....You'll eventually find Your "Suspension Happy Place" with Your Trike.....ThumbUp
 
I have been running 22 in rears for about 50,000 now. Do not have tire wear at all that I can tell. Wing/Roadsmith I think a lot of this kind of stuff is what feels best to you. RIDE SAFE
 
My trike rides rough in town period but I built it for the highway, the proof is in the pudding. When I get it out on the open road it settles down smooth's out and rides just fine.
when In town its a bit better than my friends tri-glide with two people on it, His is a bit better than mine one up in town.
Life is a series of trade offs in the end. The question is what kind of riding do you do the most of?:Shrug:
Again keep your trike in a gear where its pulling all the time and see if it dosent handle better?

8322.jpg
 
:wave4:Hey Ya'll it's me again.......

OK I have adjusted the air pressure in rear tires to 24 psi and 41 in front, rear air ride at 39 psi (MT recommended for 300-400 lbs rider and stuff).

Straight line handling is MUCH improved....but the ride is like a Wagon!!!
I dropped the rear tires to 22 psi but notice no difference. My Wife says she feels every little bump in the road and even a small pot hole jars the fillings in her teeth.

Are we just used to the smooth ride of a 2 wheeler, Do Trikes ride stiffer than a 2 wheelers???

I just received my Rake kit from Zook today and will get it installed in a few weeks. I hope this will help with stiff steering and maybe help the ride a bit.

I did notice that the regular shocks are set at the Lowest setting and I didn't adjust any higher because it may increase the stiffness.

Any comments or direction as always would be much appreciated.

Danny :xzqxz:

The simplest answer to your question is yes, 2 wheelers ride smoother than trikes.
 
OK UPDATE......... I set the preload on the rear shocks to the 2nd position instead of "0" and raised the air PSI in the air-ride to 50 PSI. WOW what a positive effect this had!!!! It really smoothed out the harsh impact of hitting bumps and rides great on good roads.ThumbUp I am wondering if my air pressure read out is off. MT says 40 PSI on air-ride for 300 - 400Lbs. weight. I weigh about 190 and at 50PSI with just me on Trike it was smooth?!?!

On another note....Do you notice a right sides Torque roll on your wings when you accelerate? Reminds me of an old BMW I had back in the 80's. Just wondering if this is normal????

If I can get the Wife to come out of the warm house and go for a ride I will know more about the ride with 2 up. I may increase the shock preload up another notch or add more air to the air ride if it is not as smooth with her on it.

Thanks for all your help, please keep the ideas coming, PLEASE!!! With my Back I need the best ride I can get out of this Trike.:Meds:
 
:wave4:Hey Ya'll it's me again.......

OK I have adjusted the air pressure in rear tires to 24 psi and 41 in front, rear air ride at 39 psi (MT recommended for 300-400 lbs rider and stuff).

Straight line handling is MUCH improved....but the ride is like a Wagon!!!
I dropped the rear tires to 22 psi but notice no difference. My Wife says she feels every little bump in the road and even a small pot hole jars the fillings in her teeth.

Are we just used to the smooth ride of a 2 wheeler, Do Trikes ride stiffer than a 2 wheelers???

I just received my Rake kit from Zook today and will get it installed in a few weeks. I hope this will help with stiff steering and maybe help the ride a bit.

I did notice that the regular shocks are set at the Lowest setting and I didn't adjust any higher because it may increase the stiffness.

Any comments or direction as always would be much appreciated.

Danny :xzqxz:

"I just received my Rake kit from Zook today and will get it installed in a few weeks. I hope this will help with stiff steering and maybe help the ride a bit."



A word to the wise?ThumbUp

Ever try removing a neck bearing race?:gah:

:Coffee: When removing the old bottom race in the frame neck, put a small tack weld on it and it will just about fall out with a tap or two on that weld with a hammer and chisel.

Wrap electrical tape on the metal above and below it to keep from striking an arc where you don't want it.
Also keep your ground lead right next to where you are working to keep from striking an arc. through any bearing or bushing in the rest of the bike and you will achieve a more harmonious outcome.:clapping:
 
A word to the wise?ThumbUp
Ever try removing a neck bearing race?:gah:

:Coffee: When removing the old bottom race in the frame neck, put a small tack weld on it and it will just about fall out with a tap or two on that weld with a hammer and chisel.

Wrap electrical tape on the metal above and below it to keep from striking an arc where you don't want it.
Also keep your ground lead right next to where you are working to keep from striking an arc. through any bearing or bushing in the rest of the bike and you will achieve a more harmonious outcome.:clapping:

Why go to all that trouble?

Honda put two notches in the bearing race seat so a long bar can be passed through the neck, placed on the race backside and with alternating positioning tap the race out. This exact method works on upper and lower steering head bearing race.
 
I made my own for a VTX and it works just fine on the GW.
Welded a piece on the side so it would fit on the edge of the bearing race. takes about a minute to get one out.
 
I made my own for a VTX and it works just fine on the GW.
Welded a piece on the side so it would fit on the edge of the bearing race. takes about a minute to get one out.

Im really jealous, the Harley is way tougher as there is no lip or gap at least not on my old tour glide.
Harley makes a removal tool but they are too cost inhibitive for a one time use.
if you try to grind it out with a small die grinder and split it, make sure you pack a lunch and lantern:laugh:
It's good to know the GW is easier.
 
I'm really jealous, the Harley is way tougher as there is no lip or gap at least not on my old tour glide.
Harley makes a removal tool but they are too cost inhibitive for a one time use.
if you try to grind it out with a small die grinder and split it, make sure you pack a lunch and lantern:laugh:
It's good to know the GW is easier.

LOL !! :laugh::laugh:

No need for jealousy on this one.... Even with the notches replacing these races is not fun. Getting that bottom one back in is a real chore. Now if I could just get the front end about five feet up in the air I just might find it easier. As it is, standing on my head to install a bearing race does not qualify as a good time... :D:D

All that being said, the result is definitely worth the pain. Tapered bearings are sooooooooo much better then bicycle bearings in the steering head!! :xszpv::xszpv:
 
LOL !! :laugh::laugh:

No need for jealousy on this one.... Even with the notches replacing these races is not fun. Getting that bottom one back in is a real chore. Now if I could just get the front end about five feet up in the air I just might find it easier. As it is, standing on my head to install a bearing race does not qualify as a good time... :D:D

All that being said, the result is definitely worth the pain. Tapered bearings are sooooooooo much better then bicycle bearings in the steering head!! :xszpv::xszpv:


AMEN TO THAT!

I used a rubber hammer and a socket to seat my race but then again its still an awkward position..

B-9newtrippletrees_zpsd3484c17.jpg this was my new hog halter triple tree I got from zook after installation.
I had the advantage of an overhead hoist in lifting.
 
Well I dropped off my Trike at the Honda Shop in Sumter, SC today. They are a certified MotorTrike dealer, to have them install the Rake Kit I got from Zook. They were very impressed with the quality of the Kit, so Thanks again Zook.
They are going to rebuild the fork tubes while they have them down and check the alignment and Ladderbar adjustments too. I should have it back in about a week. Looking forward to see what a difference it makes.:pepper::Trike1:
 
My trike experience with a 'certified trike' Honda dealer has been way short of 'good'. If I can't get to my trike to a Road Smith builder, I find someone who has some degree of dependability, does not do unnecessary money making things to the machine for the sake making more $. Jus sayin my experience.
 
IF you are talking about Honda of Sumter,,, review the work VERY thoroughly once they are "done".
They do not perform any installs or work on Trikes there in their Shop (from what I have seen and heard). They farm it all out to an Independent Garage.
Have been known to have the "oopsies" and other issues.
 
Exactly, that's why I posted, I am not convinced Honda dealers are 'good' installers, but this one the OP will be using may be the exception. Just saying, check with some folks that had installs by this dealer, get some feedback. Once it's done, it's done.
 
IF you are talking about Honda of Sumter,,, review the work VERY thoroughly once they are "done".
They do not perform any installs or work on Trikes there in their Shop (from what I have seen and heard). They farm it all out to an Independent Garage.
Have been known to have the "oopsies" and other issues.

Hummm...That is contrary to what I have been told, They are a certified CSC, MotorTrike , and Hannigan, Trike builder. They have a dedicated area in their shop just for Trikes and build an average of 29+ per year.

I will take your advise and check behind them for oppsies. Don't mind saying I hope you are wrong but you never know know anymore. As was discussed in another thread Customer service and Quality work seems to be a thing of the past.

Oh yeah, for what it's worth They were recommended to me by MotorTrike.
 
Could be wrong and they very well may do some of the more simple and basic work at their own shop.
But, I do trust the Sources of the Intel and am fairly sure the Trike installs are done primarily or solely by an Independent Garage.
The Trike Manufacturers (or Clients for that matter) are not told of this and that such is common practice for them.

There are Dealers that have a Partnership with Trike Shops (ie. Honda of Russellville & Horizon Trikes) and they are very upfront with that arrangement with all concerned. So that in and of itself isn't an issue. However, being secretive about it to Customers and Manufacturers tends to appear "dubious". One of them there things that make ya go Hmmm.
I have most definitely heard of and seen issues with the work and installs they or their silent Partner have performed. Heard of good jobs from and experience with them too.

Not saying you're screwed or anything,,,, Just saying use caution and confirm what you get. Definitely check the torque on the Head-Nut and Pinch-Bolts and such.
 
Could be wrong and they very well may do some of the more simple and basic work at their own shop.
But, I do trust the Sources of the Intel and am fairly sure the Trike installs are done primarily or solely by an Independent Garage.
The Trike Manufacturers (or Clients for that matter) are not told of this and that such is common practice for them.

There are Dealers that have a Partnership with Trike Shops (ie. Honda of Russellville & Horizon Trikes) and they are very upfront with that arrangement with all concerned. So that in and of itself isn't an issue. However, being secretive about it to Customers and Manufacturers tends to appear "dubious". One of them there things that make ya go Hmmm.
I have most definitely heard of and seen issues with the work and installs they or their silent Partner have performed. Heard of good jobs from and experience with them too.

Not saying you're screwed or anything,,,, Just saying use caution and confirm what you get. Definitely check the torque on the Head-Nut and Pinch-Bolts and such.

Good info, Thanks. I will certainly check behind them and if their work is not up to par I don't mind dropping a dime to MotorTrike and making them aware of it. Considering MT recommended me to them and I drove 70 miles to their location when I could have had it done closer.
Thanks again
 
UPDATE>>>UPDATE>>>
Picked up my Trike today from Honda Of Sumter.
All I can say is WOW!!! They installed the Rake kit I got from Zook, and the risers to bring the bars up and back. They checked and adjusted my Ladder bar suspension and alignment, greased and lubed all heilm joints and drive shaft.
I really can't believe it's the same Trike!!!:D:pepper::pepper::pepper:
The steering and handling is 110% better, like you guys said "Like Power Steering". I really can steer with 2 fingers of my right hand on the bars.
The only thing that did not change, and he said it is just the Nature of the Beast, is the Torque roll to the right under heavy acceleration. The Mechanic said in 2 weeks of riding that feel would become a natural sensation and I wouldn't even notice it anymore. I'm just not used to the Torque roll going left to right after riding V twins for so long where the Torque goes from Front to rear due to the orientation of the engine.

I am VERY pleased with their work, and YES they do all of their own work including adding Trike kits to 2 wheelers. It's all done in house.

Can't wait til Monday ... Rain is supposed to be moved out and calling for 76 degrees. Time to burn some gas!!:xszpv::clapping:
 
Interesting,,,
Sounds like a retraction quite possibly may be due and warranted.
Time to Vet the situation personally.
Thanks for the Update and glad to hear it went by the numbers for you ThumbUp
 
UPDATE>>>UPDATE>>>
Picked up my Trike today from Honda Of Sumter.
All I can say is WOW!!! They installed the Rake kit I got from Zook, and the risers to bring the bars up and back. They checked and adjusted my Ladder bar suspension and alignment, greased and lubed all heilm joints and drive shaft.
I really can't believe it's the same Trike!!!:D:pepper::pepper::pepper:
The steering and handling is 110% better, like you guys said "Like Power Steering". I really can steer with 2 fingers of my right hand on the bars.
The only thing that did not change, and he said it is just the Nature of the Beast, is the Torque roll to the right under heavy acceleration. The Mechanic said in 2 weeks of riding that feel would become a natural sensation and I wouldn't even notice it anymore. I'm just not used to the Torque roll going left to right after riding V twins for so long where the Torque goes from Front to rear due to the orientation of the engine.

I am VERY pleased with their work, and YES they do all of their own work including adding Trike kits to 2 wheelers. It's all done in house.

Can't wait til Monday ... Rain is supposed to be moved out and calling for 76 degrees. Time to burn some gas!!:xszpv::clapping:

Inquiring minds want to know.Where did you find risers for a GL1500?Brand?Pics?Sounds like something I might want for mine.
 
Dan
I have the Adventure kit and went through what you are now.
Adjusting the rear shock itself will make the best improvements

OK I have adjusted the air pressure in rear tires to 24 psi and 41 in front, rear air ride at 39 psi (MT recommended for 300-400 lbs rider and stuff).

Im at 34 with a full tank.
Fuel weight vs an additional passenger.??
At half to empty it goes top 25psi.
39 even 2up is a lot in reality to me.
Makes for a very stiff ride and lifts up the rear too high for me.
Another setting you have to play with as you go.

This is a good starting place.
I go against conventional wisdom and am much happier at 36psi in the front.

Are we just used to the smooth ride of a 2 wheeler, Do Trikes ride stiffer than a 2 wheelers???

YES

I just received my Rake kit from Zook today and will get it installed in a few weeks. I hope this will help with stiff steering and maybe help the ride a bit.

You wont believe the difference.............night and day...........

I did notice that the regular shocks are set at the Lowest setting and I didn't adjust any higher because it may increase the stiffness.

Try the middle position 1st. As your 2up.
Im 1up and have mine on the 4th. For me the 3rd is too bouncy.

I bought an adjusting wrench off of Amazon and then ground down the tip to fit the shock.
http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B002FHNIXW/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o03_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1
Im sure there is a cheaper way out though. This was way too much for a stinking wrench.:AGGHH:
 

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